Eat local — Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain (part II), France

la-derniere-goutte-wine-shop-is-a-very-gracious-host-to-tours-from-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

La Dernière Goutte wine shop is a very gracious host to tours from Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

With this blog post we are continuing our four-hour walking, tasting, eating and wine drinking tour of Saint-Germain-des-Pres led by Paris by Mouth.  [Part I of the two-part blog post is on the website just prior to this blog.]

 

our-dining-room-at-la-derniere-goutte-wine-shop-had-excellent-maps-of-the-french-wine-regions-along-with-some-of-the-shops-wine-storage-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint

Our “dining room” at La Dernière Goutte wine shop had excellent maps of the French wine regions along with some of the shop’s wine storage; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

The owner of La Dernière Goutte wine shop is a very gracious host to tours from Paris by Mouth, opening up a back tasting room for their small groups. We enjoyed some nice French wines with our bread from Poilâne bakery, the pâté from the MOF butcher at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market), and fromages (cheeses) from the MOF cheese shop next door to the MOF butcher’s stall at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain.

 

the-fromages-cheeses-all-purchased-at-the-fromagerie-cheese-shop-run-by-mof-cheese-maker-michel-sanders-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market_

The fromages (cheeses) – all purchased at the fromagerie (cheese shop) run by MOF cheese maker Michel Sanders at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market) — were sampled with slices of whole wheat bread from Poilâne bakery and wine purchased at La Dernière Goutte wine shop; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

The fromages (cheeses) – all purchased at the fromagerie (cheese shop) run by MOF cheese maker Michel Sanders at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market) — were sampled with wine at La Dernière Goutte wine shop.  Our formage selection included: Laurenthym, Racotin, Abondance, Brillat Savarin, Reblochon, Brie de melon, Cabrioulet with Piment D’esplette, and Trou du Cru.  The wines we drank were Domaine Francois Crochet Les Amoureuses Sancerre 2014 and Domaine du Vissoux Les Garants Fleurie 2014.

 

hand-made-pa%cc%82te-vollaile-en-gelee-by-the-mof-butcher-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-franc

Hand-made pâté — Vollaile en Gelee – by the MOF butcher at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

a-shop-window-down-the-street-from-la-derniere-goutte-wine-shop-publicized-a-very-apt-travel-quotation-from-the-19th-century-american-writer-mark-twain-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-f

A shop window down the street from La Dernière Goutte wine shop publicized a very apt travel quotation from the 19th century American writer Mark Twain; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

The text on the store window authored by the 19th century American writer Mark Twain reads: “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, and many of our people need it sorely on these accounts. Broad, wholesome, charitable views of men and things cannot be acquired by vegetating in one little corner of the earth all one’s lifetime.”

 

a-bag-of-caramel-au-beurre-sale-salted-caramels-at-the-shop-of-the-chocolatier-and-candy-maker-who-invented-them-henri-le-roux-down-the-street-from-la-derniere-goutte-wine-sho

A bag of Caramel au Beurre Salé (salted caramels) at the shop of the chocolatier and candy maker who invented them – Henri Le Roux, down the street from La Dernière Goutte wine shop; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

individual-chocolates-for-sale-at-the-shop-of-chocolatier-henri-le-roux-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

Individual chocolates for sale at the shop of chocolatier Henri Le Roux; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

as-we-were-walking-around-the-saint-germain-des-pres-neighborhood-we-came-across-a-cafe-with-outdoor-tables-note-that-is-a-standard-practice-and-legal-for-dogs-to-join-their-owners

As we were walking around the Saint-Germain-des-Pres neighborhood, we came across a café with outdoor tables – note that is a standard practice (and legal) for dogs to join their owners at the table; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

 

la-maison-du-chou-is-reputedly-the-home-of-the-best-pa%cc%82te-a-chou-in-paris-it-too-is-run-by-an-mof-baker-manuel-martinez-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france-see-the-text-of

La Maison du Chou is reputedly the home of the best pâte à chou in Paris; it, too, is run by an MOF baker, Manuel Martinez ; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France [See the text of our previous blog for the explanation of MOF –Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (shortened to MOF) — translated as One of the Best Craftsmen of France.]

 

we-tasted-several-different-flavors-of-hand-made-pa%cc%82te-a-choux-filled-when-they-are-ordered-to-keep-them-as-fresh-as-possible-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

We tasted several different flavors of hand-made pâte à choux, filled when they are ordered to keep them as fresh as possible; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

after-our-tour-we-walked-to-jardin-du-luxembourg-luxembourg-gardens-to-enjoy-the-gardens-on-a-beautiful-fall-afternoon-with-a-cappuccino-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

After our tour we walked to Jardin du Luxembourg (Luxembourg Gardens) to enjoy the gardens on a beautiful fall afternoon with a cappuccino; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

As provided by our guide, here’s a list of places visited during our Taste of Saint-Germain food tour:

  • Poilâne bakery at 8 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006 (bread, apple tarts, punition butter cookies)
  • Patrick Roger chocolate 2-4 Place Saint Sulpice, 75006 (rocher, basil lemon, individual selections)
  • Marchè Couvert (covered market) de Saint-Germain at 4/6 rue Lobineau, 75006
  • La Dernière Goutte wine shop at 6 rue Bourbon le Château, 75006
  • Henri Le Roux salted caramels at 1 rue Bourbon le Château, 75006
  • La Maison de Chou pastry shop specializing in pâte à chou at 7 rue de Furstenberg, 75006 (pâte à chou)

Eat local — Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain (part I), France

poila%cc%82ne-bakery-is-renowned-across-france-as-one-of-the-great-bakeries-in-paris-and-not-a-baguette-to-be-found-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

Poilâne bakery is renowned across France as one of the great bakeries in Paris (and not a baguette to be found!), Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France; David Lebovitz noted in 2011 “… there’s something special about the bread at Poilâne – it has a certain flavor, just the right tang of sourdough, dark and husky but with an agreeable légèreté… I am also crazy for Poilâne’s apple tartlets.”

 

In our readings and recommendations from friends we came across a small cooperative that offers food and wine tour of Paris – “Paris by Mouth”.  For our second day in Paris we booked well in advance a four-hour walking, tasting, eating and wine drinking tour of Saint-Germain-des-Pres.  They note that their food tours have been celebrated by The New York Times (twice!), and knowledgeable foodies like  David Lebovitz and Ruth Reichl.  What we really appreciated and enjoyed is that the tour group size is limited to seven people!  We also found that they were true to their marketing claim: “we spend generously at the best shops in town, and we only work with expert guides who have devoted their lives to food & wine.”  [See: http://parisbymouth.com/paris-food-tours/]

 

beautiful-brown-loaves-of-bread-at-poila%cc%82ne-bakery-along-with-one-of-their-popular-tarts-with-the-individual-tartelette-aux-pommes-apple-tarts-on-the-shelf-below-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-sa

Beautiful brown loaves of bread at Poilâne bakery, along with one of their popular tarts (with the individual Tartelette aux Pommes (apple tarts) on the shelf below); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

It turns out that it is a very “small world, after all”.  Our guide, a professional food writer (years at Gourmet and Saveur) looked familiar to the two of us (and vice versa).  It took a while, but we finally figured out that we had met a couple of years ago in Paris when she was observing a cooking class that we were taking in the Marais neighborhood with a cooking teacher with whom we had cooked previously – as part of the background profile story she was writing for a magazine.

 

the-sampler-box-of-favorite-chocolates-at-mof-patrick-rogers-chocolate-shop-on-saint-sulpice-in-saint-germain-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france-see-the-text-for-the-explanation

The sampler box of favorite chocolates at MOF Patrick Roger’s chocolate shop on Saint Sulpice in Saint-Germain, Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France; see the text for the explanation of MOF (Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (shortened to MOF), translated as One of the Best Craftsmen of France)

 

On our tour we learned a new term in French food – actually a title – “MOF” (see below for a detailed explanation of the “One of the Best Craftsmen of France” competition and title).  Very few French craftsmen and artisans earn this award that takes years of preparation before the competitive examination.  We were introduced to the term outside of Patrick Roger’s chocolate shop in Saint-Germain.  It turns out that there are very few winners of the award in each category, with restaurant chefs being one of the categories with more numerous winners.  Of course, a little later on the tour, it was no surprise that our guide took us to an MOF butcher and an MOF cheese monger (in the Marché Couvert des Saint-Germain – covered market of Sain Germain) and, for dessert, an MOV pastry chef-owned La Maison du Chou (known for Paris’ best pâte à chou).

“Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France is a craftsman competition in France, held every four years.

“The title of Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (shortened to MOF) is a unique and prestigious award in France according to category of trades in a contest among professionals.  This contest is organized and recognized as a third-level degree by the French Ministry of Labour.  The President of the French Republic is granted honorary membership with the title MOF honoris causa.   The awarding of medals occurs at the Sorbonne, in Paris, during a large reunion followed by a ceremony at the Élysée [the President’s residence] in the presence of the President of the French Republic.

“This award for special abilities is unique in the world.  Created in 1924, initially between the best workers of the era aged 23 and over, this contest was given the title of Un Des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (One of the Best Craftsmen of France).  Today, by the diversity of specialities, the list of which is regularly updated, the award has also been awarded to more modern trades and high technology fields.

“In this competition, the candidate is given a certain amount of time and basic materials not only to create a masterpiece, but to do so with a goal of approaching perfection.  The chosen method, the organization, the act, the speed, the know how and the respect for the rules of the trade are verified by a jury just as much as is the final result.  The winning candidates retain their title for life, with the indication of the specialty, the year following the one in which they obtain the title.  This prestigious title is equally recognized by professionals and the greater public in France, particularly among artisan-merchants such as pastry makers, hairdressers, butchers, jewelers, and others whose trades are recognized, particularly those for more luxurious goods.

“This competition requires months, sometimes years, of preparation.  Technical skills, innovation, respect for traditions and other aspects are all practiced repeatedly to a level of refinement and excellence, effectiveness and quickness to succeed and be crowned by the jury, which makes its decision according to the distribution of points awarded during the entire process.” – Wikipedia

 

the-jewel-like-beautiful-green-chocolates-in-the-center-box-are-filled-with-a-chocolate-ganache-delicious-at-mof-patrick-rogers-chocolate-shop-on-saint-sulpice-in-saint-gremain

The jewel-like, beautiful green chocolates in the center box are filled with a chocolate ganache – delicious!, at MOF Patrick Roger’s chocolate shop on Saint Sulpice in Saint-Gremain; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France; see the text for the explanation of MOF (Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (shortened to MOF), translated as One of the Best Craftsmen of France)

 

the-second-floor-of-mof-patrick-rogers-chocolate-shop-on-saint-sulpice-in-saint-gremain-is-where-patrick-roger-houses-part-of-his-eclectic-modern-art-collection-with-many-pieces-crafted-by-t

The second floor of MOF Patrick Roger’s chocolate shop on Saint Sulpice in Saint-Gremain is where Patrick Roger houses part of his eclectic modern art collection, with many pieces crafted by the MOF Chocolatier himself; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-takes-place-under-beautiful-arcades-and-is-open-6-days-a-week-with-fruit-and-vegetable-sellers-grocers-fishmongers-and-sta

Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market) takes place under beautiful arcades and is open 6 days a week with fruit and vegetable sellers, grocers, fishmongers, and stalls selling roast meat (by an MOF butcher) and international foods (Iberian, Italian, Greek, etc.) and an MOF cheese monger’s stall; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

fresh-tomatoes-and-vegetables-for-sale-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

Fresh tomatoes and vegetables for sale at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

fresh-fruit-and-lettuces-for-sale-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

Fresh fruit and lettuces for sale at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

our-guide-knows-the-mof-butcher-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-and-he-befriended-our-small-group-and-offered-us-several-different-samples-of-his-charcuter

Our guide knows the MOF butcher at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market) and he befriended our small group and offered us several different samples of his charcuterie; Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France; see the text for the explanation of MOF (Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (shortened to MOF), translated as One of the Best Craftsmen of France)

 

a-portion-of-the-numerous-medals-won-and-displayed-by-the-mof-butcher-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

A portion of the numerous medals won and displayed by the MOF butcher at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

several-of-the-pates-hand-made-by-the-mof-butcher-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

Several of the pâtés hand-made by the MOF butcher at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France; our guide bought some of the Vollaile en Gelee for eating later [see our next blog post, “Eat local — Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain (part II), France”]

a-selection-of-fresh-fish-at-one-of-two-fish-mongers-stall-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-by-mouth-taste-of-saint-germain-france

A selection of fresh fish at one of two fish mongers’ stall at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

fresh-crevettes-shrimps-prawns-and-gambas-sauvages-giant-4-ounces-apiece-prawns-at-one-of-two-fish-mongers-stall-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-mar

Fresh crevettes (shrimps/prawns) and Gambas Sauvages (giant, 4 ounces apiece, prawns) at one of two fish mongers’ stall at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France

 

a-selection-of-chevres-goat-cheeses-at-the-fromagerie-cheese-shop-run-by-mof-cheese-maker-michel-sanders-at-marche-couvert-des-saint-germain-the-saint-germain-covered-market-paris-b

A selection of chèvres (goat cheeses) at the fromagerie (cheese shop) run by MOF cheese maker Michel Sanders at Marchè Couvert des Saint-Germain (the Saint-Germain covered market); Paris by Mouth: Taste of Saint-Germain, France; see the text for the explanation of MOF (Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (shortened to MOF), translated as One of the Best Craftsmen of France)

 

As provided by our guide, here’s a list of places visited during our Taste of Saint-Germain food tour:

  • Poilâne bakery at 8 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006 (bread, apple tarts, punition butter cookies)
  • Patrick Roger chocolate 2-4 Place Saint Sulpice, 75006 (rocher, basil lemon, individual selections)
  • Marchè Couvert (covered market) de Saint-Germain at 4/6 rue Lobineau, 75006
  • La Dernière Goutte wine shop at 6 rue Bourbon le Château, 75006
  • Henri Le Roux salted caramels at 1 rue Bourbon le Château, 75006
  • La Maison de Chou pastry shop specializing in pâte à chou at 7 rue de Furstenberg, 75006 (pâte à chou)

 

A walk around Paris, France

our-hotel-room-was-above-kult-restaurant-in-the-front-corner-of-the-beautifully-restored-and-newly-opened-le-saint-hotel-located-between-the-seine-and-boulevard-saint-germain-in-the-6th-arr-paris-f

Our hotel room was above Kult Restaurant in the front corner of the beautifully restored and newly opened Le Saint Hotel located between the Seine and Boulevard Saint-Germain in the 6th Arr., Paris, France

 

On our way back to the United States from the Middle East when we debarked from the ship, we stopped for two days in Paris, France – just long enough to relax and get into the “French” pace of life and enjoy the scenery, people, and wonderful food and wine.  Each day we walked over 10 miles (16 kilometers) around the heart of the city, criss-crossing the Seine on the first day, meeting an old friend from California, who is now living in Paris, for lunch in the Marais near the Place des Vosges.  It was a beautiful, warm fall day and we took just a few photographs to remember the ambience of the city on a beautiful day.

 

one-of-many-cafes-on-boulevard-saint-germain-with-outdoor-seating-cafe-de-flore-is-an-old-left-bank-institution-one-of-the-citys-oldest-having-opened-in-the-1880s-during-th

One of many cafes on Boulevard Saint-Germain with outdoor seating, Café de Flore is an old Left Bank institution – one of the city’s oldest, having opened in the 1880s, during the French Third Republic – very popular with famous writers and philosophers and artists such as Pablo Picasso, Paris, France

 

down-the-boulevard-is-another-well-known-cafe-les-doux-magots-the-main-rival-of-cafe-de-flore-having-hosted-many-luminaries-such-as-jean-paul-sarte-simone-de-beauvoir

Down the boulevard is another well-known café, Les Doux Magots, the main “rival” of Café de Flore, having hosted many luminaries such as Jean-Paul Sarte, Simone de Beauvoir and Albert Camus, Paris, France

 

“Romantic, vain, convivial, petty—defining Paris is a favorite pastime of the Parisians themselves.  ‘[Paris] changes faster, alas, than a mortal’s heart,’ wrote Baudelaire.  France’s capital is home to haute couture, masterpieces of art and architecture, and temples of fine dining, but also cozy bistros, vibrant ethnic enclaves, and bohemian cafés.  One of the most visited destinations in the world, the City of Light glitters brighter than ever.” – http://www.travel.nationalgeographic.com

 

the-benedictine-abbey-of-saint-germain-des-pres-on-the-left-bank-was-founded-in-the-6th-century-and-was-the-burial-place-of-merovingian-kings-of-neustria-the-church-gave-its-name-to-the-quarter-of-sa

The Benedictine Abbey of Saint-Germain-des-Pres on the Left Bank was founded in the 6th century and was the burial place of Merovingian kings of Neustria; the church gave its name to the quarter of Saint-Germain-des-Pres which is also part of the Latin Quarter, named because Latin was the main language at the University of Paris — on the land along the Seine (donated by the Church) – as Latin was the only common language among its foreign students; Paris, France

 

residences-and-shops-and-restaurants-along-boulevard-saint-germain-paris-france

Residences and shops and restaurants along Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris, France

 

charcuterie-from-the-basque-region-for-sale-at-a-street-market-along-boulevard-saint-germain-paris-france

Charcuterie from the Basque region for sale at a street market along Boulevard Saint-Germain, Paris, France

 

cathedrale-notre-dame-de-paris-begun-in-1163-and-completed-in-1345-is-considered-one-of-the-finest-examples-of-french-gothic-architecture-and-is-among-the-first-buildings-in-the-world-to-use

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris, begun in 1163 and completed in 1345, is considered one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture (and is among the first buildings in the world to use the flying buttress) and sits at the southeastern end of Île de la Cité (island in the Seine River in the heart of Paris), France

 

the-used-book-sellers-bouquinistes-along-the-seine-around-notre-dame-on-the-left-bank-are-a-parisian-fixture-france

The used-book sellers (bouquinistes) along the Seine around Notre-Dame on the Left Bank are a Parisian fixture, France

 

cathedrale-notre-dame-de-paris-is-probably-best-known-for-its-relation-to-the-story-of-the-hunchback-of-notre-dame-in-the-book-the-hunchback-of-notre-dame-by-victor-hugo

Cathédrale Notre Dame de Paris is probably best known for its relation to the story of the Hunchback of Notre Dame (in the book The Hunchback of Notre-Dame by Victor Hugo), made famous also by the numerous cartoons and movies inspired by it, Paris, France

 

the-best-pastries-in-the-world-the-window-of-one-of-many-patissieres-we-passed-on-our-walk-around-paris-france

The best pastries in the world… the window of one of many patissières we passed on our walk around Paris, France

 

one-corner-of-the-place-des-vosges-built-by-henri-iv-from-1605-to-1612-the-oldest-planned-square-in-paris-and-one-of-the-finest-in-the-city-located-in-the-marais-district-france-its-most-famous

One corner of the Place des Vosges (built by Henri IV from 1605 to 1612), the oldest planned square in Paris and one of the finest in the city, located in the Marais district, France; its most famous resident was Victor Hugo

 

one-of-several-beautiful-fountains-in-the-place-des-vosges-located-in-the-marais-district-paris-france

One of several beautiful fountains in the Place des Vosges, located in the Marais district, Paris, France