Garove (Ile des Lacs) Island, Vitu (or “Witu”) Islands, West New Britain Province, Papua New Guinea

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 1 — Garove (Ile des Lacs) Island is a large volcanic caldera island with a narrow channel to enter the “doughnut hole” lagoon from the south; it is the caldera left after a major eruption almost 300 years ago

From a prior expedition visit, our expedition team recalled that some of the best SCUBA diving in the world was on Garove Island.  Garove (Ile des Lacs) Island is a large volcanic caldera island with a narrow channel to enter the “doughnut hole” lagoon from the south.  Garove Island is the caldera left after a major eruption almost 300 years ago.  The caldera’s crater is about 5 kilometers [3 miles] wide with 100 meter [330 feet]  to 150 meter [500 feet] high walls around it.  Because those walls are breached on the southern side of the island, the caldera is flooded and forms a superb natural harbor.  We anchored in the lagoon for the day.  Technically, Garove Island is one of several Vitu Islands – a volcanic group of eight islands located in the Bismarck Sea, located 40 miles [64 kilometers] north of the New Britain (island) coastline, in the southwestern Pacific Ocean.  The Vitu Islands are administratively part of Papua New Guinea (PNG).  Generally forested, the islands produce some copra and cocoa and the islands are popular with SCUBA divers.  Note that copra is the dried, white flesh of the coconut from which coconut oil is extracted.  Traditionally, the coconuts are sun-dried, especially for export, before the oil, also known as copra oil, is pressed out.

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 2 — we took Zodiacs to a landing on the western interior coastline of the lagoon to visit the island’s small native Melanesian village

We took Zodiacs to a landing on the western interior coastline of the lagoon to visit the island’s small native Melanesian village.  For safety reasons, no swimming or snorkeling took place, as there have been crocodiles sighted in the lagoon.  About ¼ mile from the landing spot (the old jetty is broken down, so we had a beach landing) we walked up a concrete sloped walkway ramp to the village, where everyone was very friendly and most people, particularly the younger adults and the children, spoke English.  One lady at her home, near the center of the village, offered visitors a whole coconut, whose top she cleaved off, exposing a small hole, enabling us to drink the coconut water, which was extremely refreshing in the warm humid environment.  (This was the first day we really felt the humidity, because the forests on the outer rim of the caldera, above the lagoon, blocked the strong trade winds that blow through this region at this time of the year.  With calm air, the humidity was very noticeable!). 

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 3 – this mother and child were part of the locals’ “greeting committee” to welcome us (warmly) to their village

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 4 – a family that we talked with, in front of their house — as we walked on the trail along the shore to the ramp for the uphill walk to the main village

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 5 – a family at their home that was part of a multi-home compound

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 6 – the communal kitchen building for the families in the compound shown in photograph #5, above

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 7 – outrigger canoes along the shore of the lagoon

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 8 – homes in the main uphill village

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 9 – a young carpenter who was building a new door for a home in the village

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 10 – a rooftop solar panel (the only one we saw on our walk in the village)

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 11 — one lady at her home, near the center of the village, offered visitors a whole coconut, whose top she cleaved off, exposing a small hole, enabling us to drink the coconut water, which was extremely refreshing in the warm humid environment

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 12 – this woman was home shredding fresh coconut meat for cooking

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 13 – happy boys on the walkway to the upper main village; note the mother’s teeth are orange from chewing beetel nuts (areca nuts)

Betel nut chewing, also called betel quid chewing or areca nut chewing, is a practice in which areca nuts are chewed together with slaked lime and betel leaves for their stimulant and narcotic effects, the primary psychoactive compound being arecoline.

“The seed is separated from the outer layer of the fruit and may be used fresh, dried, boiled, baked, roasted or cured.  The most common method of using betel nut is to slice it into thin strips and roll it in a betel leaf with slaked lime (powder) or crushed seashells.  This leaf package is known as a betel quid, betel nut chew, betel chew, betel pan or betel paan (India).  Betel quids may also contain tobacco and other additives such as cloves, cardamom, nutmeg, aniseed, coconut, sugar, syrups and fruit extracts, to enhance the flavour.  Betel nut chewing is an important cultural practice in some regions in south and south-east Asia and the Asia Pacific.  It has traditionally played an important role in social customs, religious practices and cultural rituals.” — https://adf.org.au/drug-facts/betel-nut/ (website of the Australian Alcohol and Drug Foundation)

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 14 — the “stairway to heaven” stairs to the primary school and the local church, situated on top of a hill

After visiting the village, we walked downhill, back to the Zodiac landing spot and continued on to reach the “stairway to heaven” stairs to the primary school and the local church, situated on top of a hill.  Everyone climbing the stairs was conscious of the fact that there was no handrail and that, years ago, so the story goes, author Peter Benchley (Jaws) had too much to drink and lost his balance and fell off the stairs – breaking an arm.

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 15 – some island youth posing in front of the sign for Saint Michael’s Primary School Vitu, seen in the background; the school is partially funded by the Catholic Church

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 16 – soccer field and buildings of Saint Michael’s Primary School Vitu

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 17 – the island’s church, atop a hill on the west side of the caldera; the steeple is visible from the lagoon, as it is above the surrounding trees

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 18 – church steeple close-up

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 19 – the interior and altar of the island’s church

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 20 – the church choir, with beautiful voices, treated us all to a short concert in the church

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 21 – after the concert, this mother’s daughter came over to be with her

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 22 – the priest of the church was closing up after the concert and agreed to pose for this portrait

Garove Island, Vitu Islands, Papua New Guinea, photograph # 23 – following the concert, the Intrepid Explorer set up a manicure nail salon on the side of the church and applied red or pink polish to over a half dozen ladies and young girls

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