Papeete, Tahiti (a return port call), French Polynesia

Posted on March 25, 2022 by richardcedwards

The marina harbor in Papeete, Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia and the economic center of the country

Following our expedition to the Tuamoto Archipelago atolls and the Austral Islands, we returned to Papeete (population 27,000) to refuel and load food and supplies for our 13-day sailing journey across the pacific — 4,200 nautical miles — to Manta, Ecuador. It was nice to have time to explore a little more, as well as time to load up on fresh food at both the Papeete (Public) market and a Carrefours (French) grocery store. The local pineapples, mangoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, vegetables and fresh white tuna filets and pork were all excellent. We enjoyed many delicious lunches and dinners prepared in our apartment’s kitchen with the Tahitian ingredients.

An over-the-water restaurant along the waterfront park in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

“Queen of the Pacific — The heart and soul of the South Pacific, Tahiti is the largest in a chain of islands that make up French Polynesia. The name can either refer to the main island or the entire destination. Commonly referred to as The Islands of Tahiti, French Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands and atolls scattered across an impressive nautical surface area the size of Western Europe. Still, these tiny islands—many of which remain uninhabited—make up a total landmass of only 1,600 square miles (4,100 sq. km).

“You may be wondering, where is Tahiti? The islands are situated halfway between Los Angeles, California and Sydney, Australia. They are in the same time zone as Hawaii and located just as far south of the equator as Hawaii is north. Since the word often conjures up visions of a distant, unspoiled paradise, many assume them to be far away; but in all reality, Tahiti is only eight hours [by air] from Los Angeles.

“The island of Tahiti is divided into two parts: The larger portion to the northwest is known as Tahiti Nui, while the smaller, southeastern peninsula is known as Tahiti Iti. Tahiti Nui is dominated by three extinct volcanic mountains including Mount Orohena, the tallest in French Polynesia; Mount Aorai, known for its incredible views; and Le Diadème, which appears to crown the island as the rightful queen.

“Home to the capital city of Papeete, Tahiti is the economic center of French Polynesia. Since all flights arrive through Faa’a International Airport, your tailored Tahiti vacation will begin and end in Papeete. While you may be tempted to jet off immediately to the other islands, we recommend staying at least a day or two. Tahiti strikes an interesting contrast to some of the more quiet, secluded islands in the region; and with a selection of wonderful and convenient Tahiti Resorts available [see our previous blog post on Papeete], you will never regret staying.” — www.tahiti.com/island/tahiti

Memorial site for nuclear tests (conducted by France between 1966 and 1996) that was erected in 2006 in the Marina harbor area of Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

The memorial site for nuclear tests — conducted by France between 1966 and 1996 — was erected in 2006 in the Marina harboor area of Papeete. “The land and people of Māòhi Nui’s five archipelagos – symbolised by these … stones placed on a traditional paepae faced significant upheaval, as the nuclear tests were imposed on them. Hiroshima, Nagasaki, Bikini, Enewetak, Montebello, Emu Field, Maralinga, Malden, Kiritimati, Johnston, Moruroa, Fangataufa: the many locations around the Pacific [Ocean] chosen as nuclear test sites by the United States, the United Kingdom and France. The thousands of former test-site workers and the peoples of the Pacific live with the memory of these weapons, which today still continue to affect their health and environment.” – signage at the memorial site

A locally carved wooden tiki in front of a waterfront restaurant in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

The main shopping street in central Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia; the area has grown a lot and is much more upscale than when we first visited in the 1990s

A large church in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Bougainville Park was named after Count Louis-Antoine de Bougainville (1729-1811) who was a great navigator, explorer and scientist, who commanded the first French expedition to circumnavigate the world. During that expedition in 1768, he made a brief stopover in Tahiti. The botanist on board the expedition was Philibert Commerson, who discovered a plant in Brazil and named it after Bougainville (Bougainvillea spectabilis). Commerson’s mistress Jeanne Baret had secretly joined the expedition disguised as a man and is now recognized as the first woman to have circumnavigated the world.

Covering an area of about one acre (0.5 hectare), Bougainville Park was named in 1934 “Albert Square” in honor of the king of the Belgians, who became a symbol of the struggle against Germany during World War I. In 1968, to celebrate the bicentennial anniversary of Bougainville’s arrival in Tahiti, a series of honorary celebrations took place. For this occasion, the City Council of Papeete decided to rename the square “Bougainville Park”. Long neglected, the park underwent renovations in 2003, at the initiative of the Mayor of Papeete. Nowadays, it is again a friendly, much-used leisure area in the center of the central district by the waterfront.

Assemblee de la Polynesie Française (Territorial Assembly Building – Parliament), Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

“The Assembly of French Polynesia (French: Assemblée de la Polynésie française, Tahitian: Te âpooraa rahi o te fenua Māòhi) is the unicameral legislature of French Polynesia, an averseas country of the French Republic. It is located at Place Tarahoi in Papeete, Tahiti. It was established in its current form in 1996 although a Tahitian Assembly was first created in 1824. It consists of 57 members who are elected by popular vote for five years; the electoral system is based upon proportional representation in six multi-seat constituencies. Every constituency is represented by at least three representatives. Since 2001, the parity bill binds that the number of women matches the number of men elected to the Assembly.” — Wikipedia

A street art mural from a large (annual) art fair a few years ago in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

A modern apartment building with retail shops on the ground level, Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Rurutu (tour part III), Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Posted on March 17, 2022 by richardcedwards

Casuarina is an evergreen tree, native to Australia, the Indian subcontinent, southeast Asia, islands of the western Pacific Ocean, and eastern Africa, growing to a height of 35 meters [115 feet], Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

During our visit to Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesis, we went for a guided drive around the island. “The lush landscape reflects the island’s fertile soil and the frequent rain; ‘it’s the Britain of Tahiti,’ [a local inn proprietor] jokes. In the verdant valleys, torch ginger, papaya, bananas and even tobacco – introduced by the missionaries – run wild. The most common crop, however, is taro, a rather bland foodstuff that, for some inexplicable reason, is adored by locals. Back in the day, wars were started by one village raiding another village’s taro crop. Even today, each family’s taro plot is immaculately tended.” — www.traveller.com.au

A refreshment stop on our island driving tour, by a beach, with fresh coconut water (in the husk) and lots of fresh local fruit, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local musicians played Tahitian melodies by the beach during our refreshment stop, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local tatoo, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A coconut palm grove on Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A sweeping view across the Bay of Avera (and the village of Avera), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The village of Avera’s taro fields are probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; they were being cultivated when Captain Cook passed by Rurutu in 1769

“Taro is an important part of the lives of people here in Rurutu; you could argue that it’s the foundation of our culture. Farming it definitely remains a living tradition. Viriamu’s brother Meta supplies frozen taro to a supermarket in Tahiti, it earns him a modest living. I have blogged a fair bit about taro, but the subject is definitely going to be a recurring one! We probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, in our village Avera [population 919]. It was being cultivated when Captain Cook quickly passed by Rurutu in 1769, and likely for a long time before that. Last year, we were lucky enough to be featured in the Hana Hou, Hawaiian Airlines inflight magazine.” — http://lifeinrurutu.blogspot.com [A blog by a Welsh woman, married to a native Rurutu man, who runs a guest house on the island of Rurutu.]

One family’s taro plot near the village of Avera, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Each taro plant can have many stalks and leaves, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; both the root and leaves, when cooked, are edible

Turning over the soil to keep it very moist in a field that was being replanted, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

We visited the village of Avera’s large taro field and watched a couple of men harvest some mature taro plants (for the roots) and then replant the stems still attached to the top of the root (tuber or corm) in holes dug into very moist soil. As the plants were harvested (whole), by loosening the soil and then pulling the entire plant out of the ground, they were chopped into thirds – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (to be replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked). One man followed the harvesting and used a spade to dig up and turn over the soil adjacent to a small stream, to keep the field very moist.

The whole taro plant, removed intact from the ground, is cut into 3 parts – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Taro root can be boiled, steamed, baked, or fried — similar to cooking a potato. However, taro can be toxic to humans if it’s eaten raw, so, it must be cooked thoroughly. Note that although the root, leaves, and stems (all parts of a taro plant are edible), they must be cooked thoroughly; otherwise, chemicals in the plant will cause itching in the mouth and throat.

Harvested taro roots, trimmed off the stems, ready to go into the home for cooking, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; a typical family of 4 or 5 will consume 2-3 taro roots daily

Coconuts, pandamus leaves and bicycle, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

What stories can this old door tell us?; Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Ana A’eo Cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Posted on March 16, 2022 by richardcedwards

The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete. Rurutu offers visitors the “the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves. Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals. Each of the island’s 30 or so caves are different, some filled with stalactites and stalagmites, others with verdant ferns growing out of piles of rubble. The ceiling of Tupumai cave is decorated with shells and corals; the largest cave, Ana a’eo [featured in this blog post], has plenty of stalagmites, and a hole in the top through which locals used to talk to their gods.” — www.traveller.com.au

The most famous cave on the island, Grotte Ana A’eo in the local language, has recently been called the “Mitterrand cave” — after the visit to the cave by the French president in 1990. It is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.

As the music began, one of the male dancers climbed up on a ledge for dancing and blowing his conch shell as a horn, Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

We were very surprised when we arrived on the path to the cave to hear drum music and then find that there were men and women in traditional costumes on the path, along with our guides and truck drivers, to give us a hand up the steep, rocky path into the grotto. After a chance to explore the cave, we were then treated to a lengthy Rurutu traditional dance exhibition in the grotto.

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #3

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #4

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #5

Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Posted on March 15, 2022 by richardcedwards

A sandy beach on Rurutu, the most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands — almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete, Tahiti

“There are no overwater bungalows on Rurutu. No beachfront restaurants offering candlelit dinners, or in-room massages. No butlers delivering your early-morning coffee, no golf buggies to deliver you to your preferred pool.

“In short, Rurutu is not your typical Polynesian island. Even its look isn’t quite right. Rather than being surrounded by a turquoise lagoon, it has a fringing reef that gives it a wilder, more changeable beauty. Although its shores are scalloped with sandy beaches, what first captures your eye is the cliffs jutting so high that clouds catch on their peaks.

“Not many tourists make it to Rurutu. The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete, Tahiti. Most of those travelers who do come here are drawn by one of two attractions. One is the chance to swim with humpback whales, which regularly pass through here with their newborn calves between June and October [we missed the whales, being there in March]. The other is the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves [see our next blog post]. Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals.” — www.traveller.com.au

The island’s inhabitants (2,088 in 2007) are scattered in the three coastal villages of Moerai, Avera and Hauti. We landed at Moerai harbor in Zodiacs and, after some local refreshments and an excellent performance of traditional Tahitian dances, toured the island in local trucks with a local guide.

These local drummers welcomed us ashore and then provided the music for local dancers in a stunning performance, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Dancers wearing hats locally woven from pandanus fibers at the welcoming celebration adjacent to our landing site in Moerai harbor, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of the local dancers, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The “mama” of the island specialize in the art of pandanus fiber weaving, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Rurutu is famous in French Polynesia for its crafts, basketry and in particular the work of pandanus fiber which provides many families on the island with significant income. The inhabitants are also specialists in Amora’a ofai (stone lifting). It consists of lifting a stone as quickly as possible from the ground to the shoulder, stabilizing it in a standing position. The strongest athletes lift up stones that can reach up to 150 kilograms [331 pounds].

A close-up of some pandanus fibers used for weaving after they have been cut and dried (and sometimes dyed, like the green strands in the photo), Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

One of the local pandanus artisans and some of her creations for sale, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local fruits for refreshment – along with fresh coconut water in the husks — while we watched the dance performance and had time for shopping at market stands operated by local artisans, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The best-known work of art produced in the Austral Islands is considered to be the carving of the god A’a, which was discovered in Rurutu and is today exhibited at the British Museum in London. There is a replica in Moerai’s town hall.

Some of the trucks in our convoy for the driving tour of the island were festooned with local flowers, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The village of Moerai, where we arrived in our Zodiacs for a pier landing, is visible at the top end of the long sandy beach, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A beautiful array of blue colors in the waters off Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Posted on March 14, 2022 by richardcedwards

In the southern Austral Islands of French Polynesia, Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt with white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling

Known as the “Bora Bora of the Austral Islands” – one of the five island groups of French Polynesia — Raivavae’s geography is similar with its white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt. The surrounding reef with its numerous uninhabited motus (islands) creates a beautiful shallow lagoon with hues of iridescent blues. Its highest point, Mt. Hiro, tops out at 438 meters (1,437 feet). The people maintain an almost subsistence lifestyle farming taro and bananas, and by fishing the outer reef in handmade outrigger canoes much like they have for generations. The population of the island is about 1,000 people, concentrated in 4 coastal villages. Our sightseeing by local trucks and guides included stops at taro fields, the tiki of the Princess (the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis), marae sacred temples and Motu Hotuatua.

“As in other southern islands, the cooler climate than in the rest of Polynesia is conducive to market gardening of traditional taro tubers (Colocasia esculenta), coffee trees, mango trees, lychees and banana trees. As a result, many families are self-sufficient. Craftsmanship remains very much alive on the island with the making of traditional shell necklaces, the braiding of hats, and the making of tifaifai [large pieces of fabric with floral and colorful patterns, an emblem of Polynesian craftsmanship]. Moreover, Raivavae remains the only island in French Polynesia where the construction of sewn canoes continues.” — Wikipedia

Several local men formed part of a friendly welcoming committee when we arrived ashore (a wet Zodiac landing), offering each of us a coconut with a small hole in it and a straw for the refreshing coconut water, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local Christian church on Raivavae (Island) near our landing site, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local Tahitian drummers playing music for the dancers (see next photos), Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local women performing traditional Tahitian dances for us, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of one of the Tahitian dancers, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The convoy of local trucks that provided us transportation around the island for our tour, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A taro field, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; taro is one of the staples of the local diet, similarly throughout French Polynesia and, historically, in the Hawaiian Islands

The smiling tiki is the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A Tiki is a sculpture endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force, originating from the Marquesas Islands and usually representing a modified man. The Tiki is a real emblem of French Polynesia and holds a significant position in the local culture.

“The only remaining tiki (carved humanlike statue) on the island stands in a private garden just to the west of the village of Mahanatoa. About 1 meter [3.3 feet] in height, it has highly stylised hands and chest as well as clearly outlined eyes. Its curved lips suggest a smile. It’s not signed.” — www.lonelyplanet.com Two tikis that originated on the island of Raivavae are now in the Paul Gauguin Museum (Musée Gauguin) in Paperai, Tahiti. The fourth tiki sank into the ocean as it was being transported from Raivavae to Tahiti for the Museum. The local story is that almost all of the crew members involved in the transport of the tiki died later on, leading to local superstitions.

Bananas and plantains are very good tasting on Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Marae Pua Pua Tiare features large upright stones that enclose a stone paved area, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; marae are ancient open air sacred temples

Motu Hotuatua, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; legend has it that the motu (island) is the rock laid into the lagoon by a local woman who won a contest of strength with a local man [See story, below.]

“East of the island of Raivavae, emerges from the lagoon the motu Hotuatua, 60 meters [197 feet] high. According to legend, the women of the village of Vaiuru claimed to be stronger than the men of Anatonu. To find out for sure, the inhabitants decided that a woman from Vaiuru and a man from Anatonu would face off by carrying a huge rock from the top of the mountain and depositing it as far as possible in the lagoon. The start would take place in the middle of the night and the race would end before the cockcrow. Shortly after the start of the event, the man, who was very strong, reached the beach with his rock. Tired, he lay down and fell asleep. The woman, slowly, ends up laying down her rock, named Hotuatua, in the lagoon. Then she looked for her competitor and found him dozing on the beach. So she hid and imitated the crowing of the rooster. The man woke up suddenly, ran to take his rock, but for fear of being caught by the day, let it fall on the beach. The woman had won.” – www.tahitileblog-fr

Local fruits served to us for late morning refreshment, including taro (purple, lower left), bananas, mango, watermelon, sugar cane, various cooked potatoes, and coconut meat, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A native flower, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Fakarava Atoll (north), Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Posted on March 4, 2022 by richardcedwards

The northern motu’s shoreline of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia, where we spent a wonderful day ashore in “paradise”

As noted in our previous blog, Fakarava, Havaiki-te-araro, Havai’i or Farea is an atoll in the west of the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia. It is the second largest of the Tuamotu atolls. After spending a day in the southern end of the lagoon, early the next morning we sailed north near the northern entry channel where we spent the day with activities ashore on the beach (reached via Zodiacs and a wet landing).

Following natural history walks with our onboard guest expedition guides, we had an excellent beach BBQ luncheon on the beach. After lunch, a group of local musicians and two dancers shared local music and dances with us. The afternoon was a water sports “beach day” with sea kayaking, water bikes, paddle boards, and swimming. (It was too shallow for snorkeling along the shoreline.)

Our ship viewed through some coconut palm trees on the beach, Fakarava atoll (north), Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A typical shoreline private residence, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A beautiful shell necklace for sale by a local artist, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Two local dancers with the leader of the musical group, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Local musicians playing traditional Tahitian songs, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Fakarava Atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Posted on March 3, 2022 by richardcedwards

The view towards our ship in the late afternoon after we rode a Zodiac to a beach (a wet landing) on a tiny motu (island) that forms part of the Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, in northern French Polynesia

Fakarava, Havaiki-te-araro, Havai’i or Farea is an atoll in the west of the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia. It is the second largest of the Tuamotu atolls. Fakarava was classified as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2016. The lagoon is accessible through two passes, one in the north and one in the south. We sailed in from Rangiroa through the northern pass early in the morning and sailed the length 037 miles/60 kilometers) of the lagoon to the southern end where we dynamically positioned (anchoring is forbidden) for the day’s activities – SCUBA diving and snorkeling in the morning and a long Zodiac ride to a very small motu (island/sandbank) for a wet landing and nature walk (with refreshments from the ship served on the beach).

We enjoyed some truly outstanding reef snorkeling in the morning, with gorgeous corals in many colors and a variety of shapes and geometric patterns – one of the best corals displays now available in any ocean in the world, according to our international guide. Another highlight was an underwater school of cornet fish (also known as flutemouths) that seemed as long as the Russian truck convey moving south towards Kyiv, Ukraine, right now. The school of cornet fish ended up surrounding us after we swam through the horizontal “column” of fish. It was really stunning to see them just inches away from our face masks.

An old stump on the water’s edge on a tiny motu (island) that forms part of the Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Rocks on the water’s edge of the “beach”, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Three trees, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Your blogger’s late afternoon shadow looking at a motu (island) adjacent to the outer reef of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Beach composition, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A motu (island) adjacent to the outer reef of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A geometric pattern from the gentle waves at Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

One of our Zodiacs exploring the lagoon and motus (islands) of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A new (temporary) shell helmet for a hermit crab on a motu (island) of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Rangiroa Atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Posted on March 2, 2022 by richardcedwards

We sailed into the Rangiroa atoll through a channel barely wider than our ship to this small town at the inlet to Rangiroa lagoon; Rangiroa is the 2nd largest atoll in the world, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Rangiroa atoll in northern French Polynesia is about 355 kilometers [221 miles] northeast of Tahiti and home to about 2,500 people. Rangiroa Atoll, part of the Tuamoto Archipelago, is the 2^nd largest atoll in the world, a 120 mile [193 kilometers] long chain of motus (sandbank islands) enclosing the colossal lagoon that covers over 600 square miles [1,550 sq. kilometers]. (The other archipelagos of French Polynesia are Society Islands, Gambier, Australes and Marquesas Islands.) Many of the inhabited atolls in French Polynesia have a small airstrip and the communities are served by cargo ships from Tahiti weekly, monthly, or less frequently. The two main activities of the paradise island of Rangiroa are scuba diving and pearl farming. The government of French Polynesia limits entry into the atolls to ships less than 200 meters [656 feet] in length – we are probably the largest ship to have ever entered these atolls, coming in just under the 200-meter limit (at 196.35 meters/644 feet).

We couldn’t go ashore at Rangiroa because we were in our 72-hour partial-isolation quarantine in our quarters following embarkation, to minimize the possibility that we caught COVID-19 in route and could be asymptomatic and spread the disease onboard. Hence, this blog’s images were all taken from our deck as we sailed into and out of the atoll’s lagoon.

Sailboats in the harbor of a town at the very narrow inlet to Rangiroa lagoon, Rangiroa atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Viewed from the air, the Tuamotus are a stunning chain of cerulean lagoons in northern French Polynesia that appear to float like a flowered lei in the tropical Pacific Ocean. Each atoll is dotted by a string of islands or “motu” (sandbank islands) that are themselves ringed by the most perfect beaches. Every atoll is surrounded by a tropical reef and a prismatic array of marine life resulting in nested loops of natural wonder that reveal themselves at every level of inspection. The Tuamotus are known for some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. The narrow channels through which the atolls exchange water with the nourishing oceanic waters are hotspots for concentrations of organisms from dazzling corals to reef-obscuring aggregations of fish and charismatic predators like sharks and dolphins. On land, life moves slowly under colonnades of coconut palms. Tiny villages accented by blue roofed churches are home to friendly islanders that exude contentment with their unfrenzied lifestyle.

Sailing out of the lagoon of Rangiroa atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

To understand the creation of a coral atoll over millions of years, see this site from the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s National Ocean Service website:

oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/tutorial_corals/media/supp_coral04a.html

Sailing out past the tip of the motu (island) at the inlet of the lagoon of Rangiroa atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Sailing out of the very narrow inlet of the lagoon of Rangiroaatoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Posted on March 1, 2022 by richardcedwards

The pool at the Intercontinental Hotel in Pape’ete, Tahiti – “The Queen of the Islands”, French Polynesia, with the island of Moorea in the background

At the end of February 2022, we began another journey as we continue exploring and photographing the world by sea. We flew from the United States to Pape’ete, Tahiti, where under current COVID-19 protocols all arriving visitors must submit a negative PCR COVID-19 test taken within 24 hours of boarding the flight (checked by the airline and then again on arrival in country), or an antigen test within 48 hours of boarding and then a PCR test (at the visitor’s expense) at the Pape’ete airport before being allowed into the country. All arrivals take a COVID-19 nasal swab PCR test at the airport before immigration and are then monitored by the government, and, if positive are quarantined. Needless to say, your blogging team was very careful in the period before flying to minimize exposure to the still widely spreading (in the US) Omicron variant. As you can guess by the fact that you’re reading this, we passed all the tests and are now underway.

“Papeete is the capital city of French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of the French Republic in the [South] Pacific Ocean. The commune of Papeete is located on the island of Tahiti, in the administrative subdivision of the Windward islands, of which Papeete is the administrative capital…

“It is the primary center of Tahitian and French Polynesian public and private governmental, commercial, industrial and financial services, the hub of French Polynesian tourism and a commonly used port of call. The Windward Islands are themselves part of the Society Islands. The name Papeete, sometimes also spelled Papeʻete inTahitian, means “water from a basket”. The urban area of Papeete had a total population of 136,771 inhabitants at the August 2017 census, 26,926 of whom lived in the commune of Papeete proper.” — Wikipedia

The Intrepid Traveler and your blogger at the Intercontinental Hotel in Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Our first night in Tahiti was spent at the delightful Intercontinental Hotel near the Pape’ete airport before heading to the ship the next morning for yet another nasal swab PCR COVID-19 test (a requirement before boarding and a 72-hour partial-isolation quarantine in our quarters to minimize the possibility that we caught COVID-19 in route and could be asymptomatic and spread the disease onboard). We have now cleared that period and enjoyed some truly outstanding reef snorkeling this morning, with gorgeous corals in many colors and a variety of shapes and geometric patterns – one of the best coral displays now available in any ocean in the world, according to our international guide. Another highlight was an underwater school of cornet fish (also known as flutemouths) that seemed as long as the Russian truck convey moving south towards Kharkiv, Ukraine, right now. The school of cornet fish ended up surrounding us after we swam through the horizontal “column” of fish. It was really stunning to see them just inches away from our facemasks.

Downtown Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia at sunset

“Crowned by a circle of majestic peaks, the Island of Tahiti, the largest island in French Polynesia, towers over the South Pacific ocean like a proud and royal Queen. The mountainous interior of Tahiti Island is adorned with mystical valleys, clear streams, and high waterfalls. Most of the island’s population resides near the shore, leaving the interior of the island feeling almost untouched and ancient, despite such proximity to the bustling capital of Papeete. Papeete, meaning “water basket,” was once a gathering place where Tahitians came to fill their calabashes with fresh water. Now, Papeete, the touchstone of this island nation, boasts world-class Tahiti resorts, hotels, spas, fine dining and unique restaurants, nightclubs, vibrant markets, museums, pearl shops, and boutiques.” — tahititourisme.com/en-us/island/tahiti/

The Sea Eagle II, the world’s largest aluminum sailboat docked in Pape’ete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

With an overall length of 266 feet [81 meters] – almost the length of an American football field, SEA EAGLE II is the largest yacht built at Royal Huisman’s shipyard in Vollenhove, Netherlands, and joins another Huisman build – Athena – in the top 10 ranking of the world’s largest sailing yachts. She is, by any measure, a head turning superyacht destined for greatness.

For the interested reader, learn the “inside story of the world’s largest aluminium sailing yacht”, in Yachting World’s June 17, 2020 article online at: www.yachtingworld.com/news/sea-eagle-ii-launched-worlds-largest-aluminium-sailing-yacht-126624

Where in the world is Riccardo?

Exploring and photographing by sea

Monthly Archives: March 2022