Eat Local — Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

Legal Sea Foods Restaurant (logo), Kendall Square, Cambridge, MA, USA

New England — the northeast states of the USA — is well known for its delicious, fresh seafood, typically served in rather “Puritanical” plain, simple recipes — showing off the freshness of the ingredients and their wonderful flavors.  While Boston was historically known for its scrod (fish) and the northeast coast of Massachusetts for its clams, it is Maine’s delicious cold water lobsters that are the number one favorite of the panoply of local seafood.  When it comes to fresh, the top spot in the Boston area (including Cambridge, across the Charles River and home to both Harvard University and M.I.T., the Massachusetts Institute of Technology) is Legal Sea Foods.  Founded in 1950 in Boston, this small collection of excellent restaurants is known for its motto:  “If it isn’t fresh, it isn’t legal.”

The interior of Legal Sea Foods Restaurant informs your that this is a seafood dining eperience, Cambridge, MA, USA

Starting 30 years ago, whenever I was in Boston on business (having flown across the US from San Francisco), I always tried to get to one of the Legal Sea Foods locations for a meal, with the small restaurant and take out shop at Logan Airport a last reprieve.  (How many fresh lobsters packed in boxes did I take on airplanes as the extra “carry-on” over the years?  Even my wife has lost count.)

Legal was declared “#1 Best Seafood Restaurant” in USA Today newspaper’s national poll in 2013.  Back in 1981 Legal Sea Foods’ clam chowder was called upon for civic duty.  It was served at the Presidential Inauguration, beginning a bipartisan tradition that is still going strong today.

“Steamers” (steamed Ipswich Clams) appetizer at Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

Having had the “chowda” last night at the new Legal Crossing in the Downtown Crossing area adjacent to the Boston Common — in walking distance of our overnight lodging — we started today’s feast of a luncheon with the local “steamers” (steamed Ipswich Clams).

Closeup of “Steamers” (steamed Ipswich Clams) appetizer at Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

Fresh, simple, and delicious, as shown above (eaten with the tail “skin” removed, washed in clam broth and dipped in melted butter).  Watch the front of your shirt!

Fried Ipswich Clams appetizer at Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

Of course, no visit to the Boston/northeast Massachusetts area would be complete without fried Ipswich clams.  Tartar sauce is the preferred dip for these scrumptous morsels.

“Is this all (2.5 pounds of Maine lobster) for me?” at Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

The caption says it all: “Is this all (2.5 pounds of Maine lobster) for me?”  Of course, immediately after this (and the next two photos) your photographer put away his camera and took charge, getting the lobster ready for eating (and SPLITTING between two diners).

“I must be fresh, because I’m at” Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

A handsome fella…

Our giant Maine lobster cracked and the tail split for “sharing” at Legal Sea Foods, Cambridge, MA, USA

… now all set for splitting between the two of us.  Absolutely wonderful.  And for those of you who last found us in Brittany, with the excellent blue, cold water local lobsters — see our previous blog posts — these were tastier (no, that last observation is not just American pride).  These are the best lobsters in the world.

Eat local — Ottolenghi’s Deli, Belgravia, London, England

Ottolenghi’s Deli in the Belgravia neighborhood (13 Motcomb St.) of London, England

We were very excited during our short visit to London to find that Ottolenghi operates a deli in Belgravia, near where we were spending the day exploring that neighborhood and the Knightsbridge area (which includes Harrods Department Store).  Now based in London, the Jerusalem-born chef and cookbook author Yotam Ottolenghi has become very popular in the United States as well as Britain and the European Continent.  Ottolenghi’s cooking style is rooted in, but not confined to, his Middle Eastern upbringing: “a distinctive mix of Middle Eastern flavours – Syrian, Turkish, Lebanese, Iranian, Israeli and Armenian – with a western twist”.  We have enjoyed many dishes that we and our friends have prepared from his cookbooks, including Ottolenghi: The Cookbook, Jerusalem, and Plenty.

Salads selection at Ottolenghi’s Deli, London, England

Roasted aubergine (eggplant) with walnut tahini yoghurt, pomegranate seeds and coriander at Ottolenghi’s Deli, London, England

Biscuits and cookbooks at Ottolenghi’s Deli, London, England

While this location of one of Ottolenghi’s restaurants features primarily take out, we were able to order luncheon plates of a combination of salads plus drinks for lunch.  Our favorite (which we’ve cooked at home) is the roasted aubergine (eggplant) salad.  The pastry selection was difficult!

Pastry selection at Ottolenghi’s Deli, London, England

After our lunch at a courtyard table behind the restaurant (there is no interior table service), we enjoyed exploring the Knightsbridge neighborhood, as we headed to some exhibitions at the “V & A” (Victoria and Albert Museum).

The typical residential architecture in the Knightsbridge neighborhood near where Ottolenghi’s Deli is located, London, England

No visit to the Knightsbridge neighborhood is complete without a visit to the Victoria and Albert (“V & A”) Museum, London, England

As an addendum to this blog post, here’s a sample recipe for one of Ottolenghi’s savory salads, from the Ottolenghi.com web site:

Roast butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za’atar

Ottolenghi salad: Roast butternut squash and red onion with tahini and za’atar. Photo by: Colin Campbell, courtesy of the Ottolenghi.com web site

If you want a vegetarian dish to make an impact on the table, this does the job – it looks great and has really complex flavours. Serves four.

1 large butternut squash (around 1.1kg), cut into 2cm x 6cm wedges

2 red onions, cut into 3cm wedges

50ml olive oil

Maldon sea salt and black pepper

3½ tbsp tahini paste

1½ tbsp lemon juice

3 tbsp water

1 small garlic clove, crushed

30g pine nuts

1 tbsp za’atar1 tbsp roughly chopped parsley

Method

Heat the oven to to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Put the squash and onions in a large bowl, add three tablespoons of oil, a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper, and toss well. Spread, skin down, on a baking sheet and roast for 40 minutes until the vegetables have taken on some colour and are cooked through. Keep an eye on the onions: they may cook faster than the squash, so may need to be removed earlier. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.

Put the tahini in a small bowl with the lemon juice, water, garlic and a quarter-teaspoon of salt. Whisk to the consistency of honey, adding more water or tahini as necessary

Pour the remaining oil into a small frying pan on a medium-low heat. Add the pine nuts and half a teaspoon of salt, cook for two minutes, stirring, until the nuts are golden brown, then tip the nuts and oil into a small bowl.

To serve, spread the vegetables on a platter and drizzle over the sauce. Scatter the pine nuts and oil on top, followed by the za’atar and parsley.

— http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/recipes/salads/roast-butternut-squash-and-red-onion-with-tahini-and-za-atar-shop

Circumambulation of the rampart walls, Saint-Malo, France

Our ship anchored at Saint-Malo, France

On our second day in Saint-Malo (see our previous post for an introduction to this Brittany coast medieval city that was home to French corsairs and pirates for hundreds of years), we decided to climb up the rampart walls and do a complete circumambulation of the walled city.

View from our circumambulation of the rampart walls of fortificaitons of Place du Quebec, Saint-Malo, France

View from our circumambulation of the rampart walls of the English Channel from Tour Bidouane, Saint-Malo, France

Built in 1689 by French King Louis XIV’s master military architect Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban, the massive Fort National dungeoned fortress was primarily intended to protect Saint-Malo from the British.  Located just outside the walled city on the north, the fort is situated offshore atop a rocky outcrop and can only be reached on foot at low tide.

View from our circumambulation of the rampart walls of Fort National from Chateau de la Duchesse Anne, Saint-Malo, France

View from our circumambulation of the rampart walls of one of the towers of the 15th century Chateau de Saint-Malo, Saint-Malo, France

Chateau de Saint-Malo (the Castle of Saint-Malo) was built by the Dukes of Brittany for their guardianship over the city of Saint-Malo beginning in 1424.  Within the castle today is a museum chronicling the city’s history, Musee de L’Historie de Saint-Malo.  It contains information on some of Saint-Malo’s most famous residents such as Jacques Cartier and the writer Chateaubriand.

Beurre (butter) “tasting” before our luncheon at Autour du Beurre with Chef Steve Delamaire, Saint-Malo, France

After our morning circumambulation of the walled city, we met some friends for lunch in La Ville Intra-Muros (the old city within the rampart walls) at Autor du Beurre.  We were very impressed by the modern decor in a 15th or 16th century building and the cuisine of Chef Steve Delamaire.  True to the restaurant’s name, there is a lot of beurre (butter).  We started our luncheon with a butter tasting! (pictured above.)  Of the eight butters — unsalted, salted, with tarragon, with garlic, with grey sea salt, with pimentón, etc., our table’s favorite was the butter with grey sea salt.  Quite an interesting way to get into the local Brittany food and culture.

Main course of lobster tail at our special lobster menu luncheon at Autour du Beurre, Saint-Malo, France

We couldn’t pass up the all lobster multi-course luncheon.  Each course presented part of the lobster in a different preparation.  Pictured above is the lobster tail served back in its shell as the entree.

One of the few remaining half-timbered “bridges” connecting old buildings, Saint-Malo, France

When we took the tender back to the ship, anchored in the harbor (see top photograph in this blog post), looking back at the walled city it was quite a sight to see all the anchored boats sitting on the sand at low tide (10+ meters, or 33 feet twice-daily rise and fall of the water level).

Boats in the sand by La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France, viewed from the west at low tide

 

Saint-Malo, France

Île du Grand Bé (island on the left) and La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France, viewed from the west at low tide

Saint-Malo, France, historically an important port in Brittany on the English Channel, was nearly destroyed during World War II after the D-Day invasion in Normandy as the Allies moved west in August 1944 in Brittany to free all the ports from the German occupation of the early 1940s.  Following a 12-year restoration,  that began in 1948, of the buildings within the ancient walled citadel with impressive stone ramparts (built by the French military architect Vauban), the city is now a major tourist attraction.

La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France, viewed from the west at low tide

Saint-Malo was once home to the infamous French corsiars, some of whom were also pirates.  (“Corsairs were privateers , authorized to conduct raids on shipping of a nation at war with France, on behalf of the French crown. Seized vessels and cargo were sold at auction, with the corsair captain entitled to a portion of the proceeds.” — Wikipedia)   The walled city the Corsairs and pirates built as a fortified home base now draws large numbers of day-trippers who come by ferry from England (across the English Channel) — the home port of the ships the pirates formerly attacked or charged tolls on.

Restored homes (after 1944 fire-bombing of the city) at the ramparts in La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France, viewed from the west

Knowing that we were going to be anchoring off Saint-Malo for a few days, earlier this year we read an excellent book (winner of the Pulitzer Prize) set primarily in Saint-Malo during the years of German occupation and focused at the end on the Allied artillery shelling (mostly with incendiary bombs), All the Light We Cannot See by Anthony Doerr.  Amazon.com notes the book is, “about a blind French girl and a German boy whose paths collide in occupied France as both try to survive the devastation of World War II…”  We highly recommend the book as a great read!  With the historical background from the book, our visit was fascinating as we already knew a lot about life in the city in the 1940s and recognized many of the locales we walked, including on top of the rampart walls (see our next blog post).

Traditional French pastries and baguettes at patisserie in La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

The impressive stone ramparts (built by French military architect Vauban) of the walled citadel of La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

Île du Grand Bé (on the right) with the connecting walkway exposed at low tide, adjacent to Saint-Malo, France

Located at the mouth of the Rance River and just off the coast of Saint-Malo, Île du Grand Bé (see photograph, above) is a rocky islet that can be accessed at low tide by crossing the beach below the walled Citadel (see the photograph of the Citadel, two up).  Saint-Malo’s native son Françpois-René de Chateaubriand is buried on the island; he had specified that his final resting place be amid the wind and waves that provided his literary inspiration.  Fittingly, Bé translates to “tomb” in the Celtic language.

A beautiful home that was one of only 182 buildings to survive the 1944 Allied fire bombing of La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

Cathedrale St-Vincent de St-Malo in La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

Originally constructed in 1146,  Cathedrale St-Vincent de St-Malo was badly damaged during World War II.  The steeple was accidentally destroyed by German forces on August 6, 1944, contradicting orders of the German commander of the forces occupying Saint-Malo.  The story was that the Germans outside the city wanted to remove the highly visible steeple which could be used as a target “sight” by the Allies.  Additional damage was done during the Allied fire-bombing of the city in the following week, as the Allies fought to rout the Germans (most of whom were captured) defending the city and the surrounding area.

Rose window (stained glass) at Cathedrale St-Vincent de St-Malo in La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

Most streets are full of retail stores with many tourists shopping, entertained by street musicians in La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

French pastries at another patisserie in La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France

Contrast the scene below, at high tide, with the top two photographs in this blog post which were shot earlier in the day at low tide. The thirty-plus foot tide (more than 10 meters) is something to see — many of the boats anchored in the bay are left high and dry on the sand after the tide flows out.  This also means that the long ramp at the passenger terminal goes from being nearly level to walk on to being quite steep!

La Ville Intra-Muros (Walled City), Saint-Malo, France, viewed from the west at high tide

Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

Local street art reminding visitors of the heritage of French painters who lived and painted in town in the 19th century, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

Pont-Aven, on the Atlantic coast of France near Concarneau (where our ship was anchored) in Brittany, is known mostly because of a group of artists who gathered there in the late 1800s around Paul Gauguin and Émile Bernard.  A local writer states: “to mention Pont-Aven is to state the inseparable bond between Brittany and painting; the first, rich in realities and myths, the second, fascinating in presence and dream.”

The main street of Pont-Aven, across from where Paul Gauguin lived and painted, Brittany, France

The residential part of town with garret windows on rooms rented to artists in 19th century, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

In the middle of the 19th century Brittany became fashionable.  American painters set up here in the 1860s, soon to be followed by hundreds of their peers of all nationalities.  They found a welcome at the Hotel des Voyageurs.  At Marie Jeanne Gloanec’s inn, a meeting between Paul Gaugin and Émile Bernard set off an artistic revolution that made Pont-Aven world-famous.  Over the next ten years the town became a rendezvous point and outdoor studio for hundreds of painters, becoming known as the “city of painters”.

Typical local stone-framed window on home, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

The picturesque Aven River flows through town on its way to the sea, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

The River Aven courses down from the Montagnes Noires into and through the town of Pont-Aven.  In the 19th century numerous flour mills were built along the river to take advantage of the fast flowing waters to turn their wheels.

The River Aven at low tide near the Atlantic Ocean outlet, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

The port, which fills up with the rising tide, is today used primarily by pleasure craft.  Going back to the 18th century, the port was an important part of the local economy.

One of the few remaining traditional thatched roof houses, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

A local patisserie producing Brittany butter-based products, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

From the processing of grain along the River Aven, formerly the main economic activity in Pont-Aven, the industry has moved progressively to the making of fine quality products:  the famous galettes (butter biscuits), made by two local biscuit manufacturers.

The Chapel of Tremalo, 16th century gothic design, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

From the city center we hiked uphill and through part of the Bois d’Amour (the woods (forest) of love) which was a favorite of many of the visiting painters.  It was here that Gauguin famously told a fellow painter that if he wanted to paint the woods blue, because that is what he saw/felt (rather than the natural green color), then paint the woods blue — advice that shook up the world of painting.  Outside the woods we came to another favorite destination of the 19th century painters, the Chapel of Tremalo.

Interior of The Chapel of Tremalo with a 17th century wood crucifix (upper left corner) rendered famous in Paul Gauguin’s work “The Yellow Christ”, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

The chapel (not consecrated as a “church”) was donated to the local farmers by a wealthy family of Pont-Aven.  The design is 16th century Gothic with a warm interior.  The chapel has become famous as it contains a 17th century wood crucifix (in the upper left corner of the photograph, above), rendered famous in Paul Gauguin’s work “The Yellow Christ”.  The theme had become somewhat common-place through overuse, but Gauguin’s genius raised it to a symbolic level:  by taking it out of its usual context and placing it amongst a group of women at prayer in a field, and by his use of form, what is revealed is an expression of the idea of prayer itself and the feeling of a simple and rustic faith.

One of many stunning hues of hydrangeas at The Chapel of Tremalo, Pont-Aven, Brittany, France

 

Eat local — L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau (Brittany), France

Langoustines and fresh oysters, lobster menu first course at L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau, France

For more than 100 years, L’Amiral Restaurant, overlooking the port of Concarneau with outdoor seating in its cafe, has been showcasing a traditional menu of seafood and French specialties.  The day we visited they were featuring a lobster menu with homard bleu (the local blue lobsters).  Of course, we had to try it!  We also ordered one meal a la carte.  As the photographs show, our luncheon was full of elegantly prepared and delicious dishes, centered on local ingredients with modern interpretations of traditional preparations.

Baked oysters, a la carte first course at L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau, France

Homard Bleu (blue lobster) special, lobster menu main course at L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau, France

Boiled fresh lobster with L’Amiral sauce, a la carte main course at L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau, France

Baked merringue with caramel sauce, pistachio ice cream and whipped cream, lobster menu dessert at L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau, France

Soufle with hot caramel sauce, a la carte dessert at L’Amiral Restaurant, Concarneau, France

Concarneau, France

Arriving at Quai Carnot in Centre Ville (the city center) in Concarneau, France

Concarneau, France’s inseparable link to the fishing industry is acknowledged each year during the lively “Fete des Filet Bleu” (Festival of the Blue Nets).  For centuries, the town’s fleet has ventured out to sea to bring home a bountiful (and lucrative) catch of 100,000 tons or so of tuna.  With the decline of the importance of fishing to the town, many former canneries have been transformed into new uses.

Rare Homard Bleu des Glenan (blue NorthEast Atlantic lobsters) at the local market’s Poissonnier de Bretagne (Brittany fishmonger), Concarneau, France

At the local indoor market by the Port in Centre Ville (City Center), we found a tank of rare Homard Bleu des Glenan (blue NorthEast Atlantic lobsters) at the Poissonnier de Bretagne’s (Brittany fishmonger) stall.  The lobsters were selling for 33.90 Euros per kilogram (US$16.95 per pound) which is considerably more than Maine lobsters sell for locally in Maine (USA).  However, they are quite delicious — see our next blog covering our luncheon at L’Amiral Restaurant.

The local seafood specialty, Confit de St. Jacques (scallop rillettes) at the local market in Concarneau, France

Also at the market we bought several cans of the local seafood specialty that dates back to the 19th century, confit de St. Jacques (scallop rillettes).  The traditional recipe is unchanged and calls for scallops to be cooked in butter, stored in crockery for several weeks (confit) and then cooked in butter and onions before canning.

Quai Carnot in Centre Ville (City Center) and the edge of Ville Close (Walled City), 14th century, Concarneau, France

Entrance to Ville Close (Walled City), 14th century, Concarneau, France

Ville Close (Walled City) was fortified in the 14th century and altered two centuries later by the architect Sebastian de Vauban.  This walled vestige of medieval days on the Brittany coast sits in the middle of Concarneau’s harbor and is accessed by a drawbridge (on the right in the above photograph).

Traditional architecture home with local stone decoration in Ville Close (Walled City), Concarneau, France

There is one main street through ViIle Close that is lined with shops, cafes, patisseries, and restaurants.  At the eastern end of Ville Close is Saint-Guenole Church, overlooking the harbor passage and the eastern side of the city.

Local stone facade of private home with personalized window boxes in Ville Close (Walled City), Concarneau, France

Kouignettes (the special local pastries) at a patisserie (bakery) in Ville Close (Walled City), Concarneau, France

At a patisserie (bakery) in Ville Close we discovered the local specialty pastry — kouignettes.  While you can find them in Paris, they originated in Brittany and are best here.  As another blogger described them, they are “sort of like a croissant in its layered goodness, only with fewer layers. It’s basically dough with a LOT of butter and sugar, caramelized so that they create a nice crusty layer over and in between the baked dough.” — http://parlezvousloco.com/2013/10/11/.  With all the butter and sugar, how could they not be tasty?  Of course we had to try several flavors…

La Porte au Vin Restaurant Creperie in Ville Close (Walled City), Concarneau, France

One of several beaches on the coast on the west side of Centre Ville (City Center), Concarneau, France

The ramparts on the Ville Close (Walled CIty) provide walkers with excellent views of the port of Concarneau, France