Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 1 — a very typical Papua New Guinean sailing canoe, a Sailau, based on the original Pacific Islanders’ sailing canoes; they are hand hewn wooden outrigger canoes with one mast, with sails that are suspended between a yard and a boom almost the length of the mast
From the Conflict Islands Group, we sailed about 50 nautical miles east to Panapompom Island, one of the Deboyne Islands, an atoll, composed of a group of reefs and islands in the north of the Louisiade Archipelago, Papua New Guinea — east of the southeastern tip of the island of New Guinea. “The Deboyne Islands were discovered in 1793 by Antoine Bruni d’Entrecasteaux. He named the islands after Pierre Ètienne Bourgeois de Boynes, who was the Marine and Colonial Minister of France at that time. During World War II, the islands were used as a seaplane outpost by the Imperial Japanese Navy, from 5–12 May 1942.” – Wikipedia
Our first photograph shows a very typical Papua New Guinean sailing canoe, a Sailau, based on the original Pacific Islanders’ sailing canoes. “Sailaus, as sailing canoes are called in Misima, the common language of these islands, are hand hewn wooden outrigger canoes with one mast. Sails are suspended between a yard and a boom almost the length of the mast. They are made of nylon, plastic or canvas tarpaulins, or bits of rice bags sewn together. Often, they are a combination of materials.” — http://www.tenayatravels.com/
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 2 — at the small village of Nulia (population of several hundred), we were very enthusiastically met by the cheerful residents who were dancers and singers in the local traditional dances and sing-sing groups
Midday, on our arrival ashore (a Zodiac wet beach landing) at the small village of Nulia (population of several hundred), we were very enthusiastically met by the cheerful residents. We found out that we were the first ship to visit the island in over five years! Some of our greeters and the dancers and singers in the local traditional dances and sing-sing groups had traveled to this side of the island from the northern, more populated side. This was a school holiday, so the children were all around and gave especially warm and friendly greetings. We were accompanied and “guided” across the long shore walk to the construction site of a new ocean-going outrigger canoe by two lovely high-school age girls from the village. The Intrepid Traveler thanked them by opening up the I.E. Nail Salon at the landing site and doing manicures (pink and bright red were the “customer” chosen colors of the day). Mid-afternoon there was a series of games on the large field by the landing spot for the local children to compete with the few children on board and some of the “young-at-heart” Residents and their guests.
Just before sunset we took Zodiacs to the nearby Nivani Island (uninhabited) where we had “almost the end of the expedition” sunset cocktails ashore and watched a large bonfire on the beach in celebration of a wonderful three weeks in Melanesia.
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 3 – the drummer for the children’s dance groupPanapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 4
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 5
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 6
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 7 – men dancing one of their traditional war dances
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 8
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 9Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 10 – many families and artisans we met in the village and talked with were more than happy to pose for portraitsPanapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 11Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 12Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 13
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 14
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 15
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 16 – the village’s cemetery was the first one we had seen in Melanesia
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 17 – the blue trim on the wooden supports for the roof and on the stairs added an unusual bit of color to this home’s façadePanapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 18 – the villager building this traditional ocean-going canoe was very proud of his work and he had many other villagers on site to chat with their visitors
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 19 – the front plate of the canoe was elaborately hand-carvedPanapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 20
Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 21Panapompom Island, Deboyne Islands, Papua New Guinea (PNG), photograph # 22 – another Papua New Guinean sailing canoe, a Sailau, based on the original Pacific Islanders’ sailing canoes
Limestone formations at Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; it is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.
The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete. Rurutu offers visitors the “the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves. Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals. Each of the island’s 30 or so caves are different, some filled with stalactites and stalagmites, others with verdant ferns growing out of piles of rubble. The ceiling of Tupumai cave is decorated with shells and corals; the largest cave, Ana a’eo [featured in this blog post], has plenty of stalagmites, and a hole in the top through which locals used to talk to their gods.” — www.traveller.com.au
The most famous cave on the island, Grotte Ana A’eo in the local language, has recently been called the “Mitterrand cave” — after the visit to the cave by the French president in 1990. It is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.
As the music began, one of the male dancers climbed up on a ledge for dancing and blowing his conch shell as a horn, Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
We were very surprised when we arrived on the path to the cave to hear drum music and then find that there were men and women in traditional costumes on the path, along with our guides and truck drivers, to give us a hand up the steep, rocky path into the grotto. After a chance to explore the cave, we were then treated to a lengthy Rurutu traditional dance exhibition in the grotto.
Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #3Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #4Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #5Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #6Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #7
The northern motu’s shoreline of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia, where we spent a wonderful day ashore in “paradise”
As noted in our previous blog, Fakarava, Havaiki-te-araro, Havai’i or Farea is an atoll in the west of the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia. It is the second largest of the Tuamotu atolls. After spending a day in the southern end of the lagoon, early the next morning we sailed north near the northern entry channel where we spent the day with activities ashore on the beach (reached via Zodiacs and a wet landing).
Following natural history walks with our onboard guest expedition guides, we had an excellent beach BBQ luncheon on the beach. After lunch, a group of local musicians and two dancers shared local music and dances with us. The afternoon was a water sports “beach day” with sea kayaking, water bikes, paddle boards, and swimming. (It was too shallow for snorkeling along the shoreline.)
Our ship viewed through some coconut palm trees on the beach, Fakarava atoll (north), Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia
A typical shoreline private residence, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French PolynesiaA beautiful shell necklace for sale by a local artist, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French PolynesiaTwo local dancers with the leader of the musical group, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French PolynesiaLocal musicians playing traditional Tahitian songs, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French PolynesiaA close-up of one of the dancers, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia