Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland (2023)

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 1 — we were very surprised to find a park with so much natural open space, with a rapidly flowing river with numerous waterfalls, abutting houses all along the northern edge of the city central park

Late on our last afternoon in Reykjavík, we had a chance to again join with some fellow photographers for a 15-minute mini-bus ride from the central harbor, through Reykjavík with our photography workshop leader, to the southern suburbs, where we had the opportunity to photograph what many have nicknamed “Icelandic Central Park”, Elliðaárdalur Park.  Elliðaárdalur Park  is one of the biggest outdoor areas in Reykjavík and is also one of the most popular areas in the city for outdoor recreation.  As shown in photograph # 1, above, we were very surprised to find a park with so much natural open space, with a rapidly flowing river with numerous waterfalls, abutting houses all along the northern edge of the city central park.  In addition to the trails along the river, there are numerous hiking trails and running paths through the park.

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 2 — Elliðaárdalur valley is known for its beautiful river, called Elliðaá River, that runs through the valley with more than one waterfall

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 3 — during summertime people go fishing in the Elliðaá River, mostly for the stocked salmon and brown trout; we saw some trout swimming in the river that were up to 20 inches (51 centimeters) long

We heard that it’s a tradition for the mayor of Reykjavík to try and hook the first catch of the season in the Elliðaá River in Elliðaárdalur Park.

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 4 — a close-up of bark on a white birch tree

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 5

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 6

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 7

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 8

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 9

Elliðaárdalur Park, Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 10 – details of a carved figurehead near an entrance to the park

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Reykjavík, Iceland (2023)

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 1 – the modern residential district on the eastern side of the city, with the new cruise ship harbor in the center and the surrounding mountains in the background; Reykjavík is the country’s capital and largest city

Reykjavík, on the coast of Iceland, is the country’s capital and largest city.  It’s home to the National and Saga museums, tracing Iceland’s Viking history.  The striking concrete Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the rotating Perlan glass dome (south of downtown) offer sweeping views of the sea and nearby hills.  Exemplifying the island’s volcanic activity is the geothermal Blue Lagoon spa, near the village of Grindavik.

Iceland is about the size of the states of Kentucky or Maine in the United States with a population of only 372,000, of which 232,000 live in greater Reykjavík – about half of those live in the city limits.  Despite being a small city on the world scale, Reykjavík, punches way above its weight due to its capital city status.  With almost two-thirds of Iceland’ residents living in the capital region, Reykjavík is one of the biggest small cities in the world.  Unlike the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Iceland is very volcanically active.  Most people in the country live along the coast — the country has a 1,000-mile (1,600 kilometers) coastline.  There is a lot of geothermal activity on the island and Reykjavík is heated by a government operated geothermal water system.  Said to be inspired by the steam rising from hot springs, early settlers named the bay Reykjavík, which means “Smoky Bay” in Old Norse.  At latitude 64-08 degrees North, just below the Arctic Circle (66-30 degrees North), Reykjavík is the world’s northernmost capital city.

For additional perspective on Reykjavík and the natural wonders of Iceland, please see our previous blog posts from August 2019, “Reykjavik, Iceland” and “The Golden Circle, Iceland

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 2 – on the 3D topographic map in City Hall, Reykjavík can be seen in the foreground, to the right of the vertical black line, with the city area painted orange (and closer to the front edge is the Keflavik Airport neighborhood); said to be inspired by the steam rising from hot springs, early settlers named the bay Reykjavík, which means “Smoky Bay” in Old Norse

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 3 – a view of the city from Perlan, Iceland’s iconic attraction and nature museum, that offers panoramic views, a nature exploratorium with interactive exhibits, and a unique glacier experience

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 4 – a symbol of the city of Reykjavík, the Sun Voyager is a sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, located on the coastal road next to Faxaflói Bay; Sun Voyager is described as a dreamboat, or an ode to the Sun — the artist intended it to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom

“Although Iceland is relatively young (it has only been a country since 1944, when it gained independence from Denmark), the country boasts one of the world’s most celebrated cultures.  Settled by Scandinavian immigrants (known as Vikings) and British slaves between the ninth and 10^th centuries, Iceland continues to celebrate its Viking customs and traditions through the retelling of folktales about elves and trolls.” — https://travel.usnews.com/Reykjavik_Iceland/

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 5 — the Harpa Concert Hall, an architectural masterpiece with a façade made with 714 glass panels, each a different shape and equipped with LED lights, is the winner of the prestigious Mies van de Rohe Award; it is the home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera, among others

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 6 – a view of the small boat marina behind the Harpa Concert Hall

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 7 – a brightly painted, well maintained fisherman’s home, dating back to the 1800s, in the oldest neighborhood in the city

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 8 — Landakotskirkja, formally Basilika Krists konungs — Cathedral of Christ the King — is located in the western part of the city and is the sole cathedral of the Catholic Church in Iceland; on its dedication in 1929, it was the largest church in Iceland

In 2011, Reykjavík became the first non-native-English native city to be designated a UNESCO City of Literature.  The recognition highlighted the city’s “outstanding literary history”, including the incredible importance of the Norse sagas and the central role literature plays in today’s modern city.

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 9– Kænugarður (the Icelandic word for Kyiv) or Kyiv torg, Kyiv Square, located near the Russian embassy, was renamed as such by the City of Reykjavík in 2022 in honor of the Ukranian capital city noting, “With this decision by the city, a clear message is being sent of solidarity with the residents of Ukraine who are fighting for their liberty and independence.”

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 10 — Dómkirkjan í Reykjavík, Reykjavík Cathedral, is the seat of the Bishop of Iceland and mother church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland, as well as the parish church of the old city center and environs; it is located at Austurvöllur, and next to it is  [see next photograph]

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 11 – Alþingishúsið, the Parliament House, is a classical 19th century building, located next to the Reykjavík Cathedral; the building was designed by Ferdinand Meldahl and built using hewn Icelandic dolerite from 1880 to 1881

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 12 — a view from Hallgrímskirkja’s (the towering, white Lutheran church  — see photograph # 14) viewing platform of Lake Tjörnin (The Pond) with City Hall on the upper right side of the lake

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 13 – a view of City Hall from Lake Tjörnin (The Pond) with a pedestrian bridge across Lake Tjörnin

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 14 — Hallgrímskirkja (Church of Hallgrimur), a towering, white Lutheran church, is Reykjavík’s most striking landmark; we went up to the top where there is an interior viewing platform with 360-degree views of the city (several of these photographs were made while on the viewing polatform)

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 15 — Pride colored stripes adorn the pavement of a major shopping street in the heart of the city

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 16 – al fresco dining is popular during the long daylight days of summer

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 17 – the city’s favorite hot dog stand serves many varieties of hot dogs, but the favorite is the simple hot dog in a bun with mustard

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 18 – the Reykjavík Art Museum is the largest visual art institution in Iceland; it occupies three locations in Reykjavík – the old harbor warehouse, Hafnarhús (pictured here), Kjarvalsstaðir by Klambratún and Ásmundarsafn in Laugardalur

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 19 – a mosaic mural (this photograph is of the right-side panel of 2 panels) from 1972 adorns the side of a block-long building near the harbor

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 20 – this statue (“Founder Statue”) in the center of the city honors Ingólfur Arnarson, the Norseman who founded Reykjavík in 874 A.D.; the initial statue was sculpted by Einar Jónsson in 1903 in Rome, Italy, and the final statue was erected in 1924, after it was cast in 1907 – the delay was due to challenges raising the funds in Denmark for the gift to the city of Reykjavík

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 21 — the Harpa Concert Hall with its LED lights lighted inside the differently shaped 714 glass panels; this photograph was made at dusk at 10:55 p.m.

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

The Golden Circle, Iceland

At the beginning of our tour of “The Golden Circle” out of Reykjavik, we drove through the ancient lava moorlands of Mosfellshei›ion the way to Thingvellir National Park

Iceland’s “Golden Circle” refers to a drive outside of Reykjavik that encompasses three of the top natural sights in Iceland: Thingvellir, Gullfoss, and Geysir.  Thingvellir National Park is a World Heritage Site praised for its historical and geological importance.  Visitors can see the geological fault known as Almannagjá, the only place above sea level where the North American and European Tectonic Plates converge. Two continents literally come together here, sometimes with violent geological consequences.  The park is also where the Althing, the world’s oldest surviving parliament, was founded in 930, convening here every summer for over eight centuries.  At the Geysir geothermal area visitors can walk amid the multitude of hot springs and watch as Strokkur, Iceland’s version of Old Faithful, erupts every three minutes, or so — there is no set cycle to the steam geyser eruptions.  c is arguably Iceland’s most beautiful waterfall.

Almannagjá is a gorge that defines the eastern edge of the North American tectonic plate where it meets the western edge of the European tectonic plate – a seven kilometers (xx miles) rift valley separates the two plates; tectonic activity has given rise to the dramatic landscape seen today; Selfoss, Iceland

fiingvellir National Park (Thingvellir National Park) was established in 1930 to protect the remains of the Albingi parliament site (930-1798).  The UNESCO-listed national park delivers spectacular scenery with mountains, grass covered lava fields, and Lake Thingvallavatn.  At the Silfra fissure there is crystal-clear water in the rift between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates (the geological fault is known as “Almannagjá”).

fiingvellir National Park (Thingvellir National Park), Selfoss, Iceland

A hot spring (no eruptions from this pool) at the Geysir geothermal area, Iceland

Strokkur, Iceland’s version of Old Faithful, erupts every three minutes, or so — there is no set cycle to the steam geyser eruptions, Iceland

A view of the entire Gullfoss waterfall (“like no other”) – “in wildness and fury it outdoes the Niagara Falls of the United States”, Iceland

Meaning “Golden Falls,” Gullfoss, the breathtaking waterfall in the Hvítá River (fed by the Langjökull glacier) awes all who watch its beauty and power. The water plunges into a rocky canyon where rainbows are often seen amid the falls.

Gullfoss waterfall, #2, Iceland

“Gullfoss is Like No Other” – ‘No waterfall in Europe can match Gullfoss.  In wildness and fury it outdoes the Niagara Falls of the United States.  Thousands of unharnessed horsepowers flow continuously into the gorge, year in and year out.’  – taken from a travel book by two Danes in the retinue of King Frederick VII after a visit to Gullfoss, 1907.  Gullfoss is a unique natural phenomenon that triggers varying impressions in people.  Its conservation, and thereby its existence in its present form, has a unique history.  Gullfoss and the surrounding area were made a nature reserve in 1979 to give people the best possible opportunity to enjoy this unique natural scene.  The area’s ecosystem is also protected, and its vegetation remains untouched.  Attempts are made to minimise man’s footprint, to keep man-made structures to a minimum and not to disturb the land and geological formations.” – sign at viewpoint overlooking Gullfoss waterfall

Gullfoss waterfall, #3, Iceland

Gullfoss waterfall, #4, Iceland

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2019 by Richard C. Edwards. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Reykjavik, Iceland

The park in Old Reykjavik where this photo was taken contains a large statue of Jón Sigurdsson, leader of Iceland’s independence movement; Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Modern and traditional Icelandic architecture, striking cultural attractions, outdoor art installations, outstanding landscapes, and excellent restaurants, the thriving capital of Reykjavik offers a wealth of experiences to entice even the most discerning of travelers.  Walking around Reykjavik, visitors can discover the incredible murals by artists Guido van Helten and several Icelandic street artists scattered throughout the city.  They can also learn about Vikings and medieval times at the National Museum of Iceland and experience the country’s natural wonders by taking day trips into the countryside, particularly the all day drive around the Golden Circle [see our next blog post].

Iceland is about the size of the states of Kentucky or Maine in the United States with a population of only 357,000, of which 228,000 live in Reykjavik!  Unlike the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Iceland is very volcanically active [see our previous post, “Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland”].  Most people in the country live along the coast — the country has a 1,000 mile (1,600 km) coastline.  There is a lot of geothermal activity on the island and Reykjavik is heated by a government operated geothermal water system.

 

The Harpa Concert Hall, an architectural masterpiece with a façade made with 714 glass panels, each a different shape and equipped with LED lights, is the winner of the prestigious Mies van de Rohe Award; it is the home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera, among others; Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Downtown contemporary buildings with retail shops, Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Shops on the main shopping street in downtown Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Hallgrímskirkja (Church of Hallgrimur), a towering, white Lutheran church, is Reykjavik’s most striking landmark, Iceland

 

Hallgrímskirkja (Church of Hallgrimur), a towering, white Lutheran church, is Reykjavik’s most striking landmark.  The distinctive Nordic design, meant to resemble volcanic basalt rock formations, is the vision of former state architect Gudjon Samuelson and took several decades to construct.  The 5,275-pipe organ is the church’s most prominent feature along with an impressive statue of Icelandic explorer Leif Erikson, discoverer of Vinland, in the park in front of the church, a gift from the United States of America on the occasion of the 1,000 anniversary of the Althing (the national parliament of Iceland), 1930.

 

The striking front side and entrance to the Church of Hallgrimur, Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Pride colored stripes adorn the pavement of a small shopping street in downtown Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Another view of some of the shops in downtown Reykjavik, Iceland

 

In old Reykjavik, we were surprised by the modernity of the City Hall, Reykjavik, Iceland; inside is a large topographical map of the country, open to the public

 

The side of City Hall faces Lake Tjörnin (The Pond), Reykjavik, Iceland

 

From inside City Hall there is an entrance to a pedestrian bridge back across Lake Tjörnin to Old Reyjkavik, Reykjavik, Iceland

 

Three churches in Reykjavik, Iceland, overlooking Lake Tjörnin

 

Silica from the area of the Blue Lagoon (see next photograph), Reykjavik, Iceland

 

A dip in the warm, soothing waters of the Blue Lagoon is considered a “must do” for most visitors to Iceland.  Surrounded by a field of black lava, the mineral-richwaters in the man-made lagoon are heated to a very pleasant 100ºF / 38ºC by the adjacent geothermal plant.  With the air temperature much cooler than the water, silky curtains of steam rise from the lagoon, adding a mystical element to the experience.  The lagoon’s exfoliating mixture of fresh and sea water is a combination of mineral salts, blue-green algae, and silica mud,

 

“Bathers” (not swimmers) enjoying the thermal waters at the Blue Lagoon, Reykjavik, Iceland; our grandkids particularly liked having a refreshing cold drink from the bar while luxuriating in the warm water

 

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2019 by Richard C. Edwards. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

 

Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

Heimaey Island is the only populated island in the archipelago of Vestmannaeyjar (Western Islands) off Iceland’s south coast; it was partially destroyed by the five-month eruption of the Edfell (Fire Mountain) volcano in 1973

 

Founded by underwater volcanic eruptions, the archipelago of Vestmannaeyjar (Western Islands) off Iceland’s south coast is also its most profitable fishing harbor.  Partially engulfed by lava in 1973, Heimaey, the only populated island in the archipelago, has striking landscapes backdropped by grass-topped cliffs, a profusion of birdlife, colorful street art, and Icelandic cuisine.  A walk along its quiet streets reveal adorable puffin-themed street signs and storytelling murals including one of island local Halla Svavarsdottír depicted by Australian graffiti artist Guido van Helten.

 

Surrounded by tall cliffs filled with nesting puffins, fulmars, and guillemot in season, the natural harbor on Heimaey Island was saved from destruction by the townspeople spraying fire hoses to stop the lava flow from the five-month eruption of the Edfell (Fire Mountain) volcano in 1973, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

Our grandson posed with a giant puffin statue in the harbor on Heimaey Island, Iceland, before we visited Puffin Lookout at the opposite end of the island where we saw hundreds of puffins in flight over the coastline, many landing on shore

 

Homes in Heimaey Town that were spared destruction and/or burial under the giant lava flows from the Edfell (Fire Mountain) volcano in 1973, Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

A film and interesting interactive exhibits at the relatively new and well-designed Eldheimar Volcano Museum relay the story of the 1963 Surtsey eruption and the devastating, five-month eruption of Eldfell (Fire Mountain) on Heimaey in 1973. Most of the 5,000 residents of Heimaey Town were safely evacuated, but over 400 homes and businesses were destroyed.  The museum was constructed around the excavated home of a young Heimaey couple and their young daughter who were evacuated from the island before their home was buried underneath the lava flow.  The excavated home was fascinating to see and it formed the touchstone for many of the nearby exhibits.  The experience was akin to visiting a modern day Pompeii in Italy (which was buried by Mount  Vesuvius in 79 A.D.) and is now a park open to the public.

 

Hardened lava fields from the five-month eruption of the Edfell (Fire Mountain) volcano in 1973, Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

A view of homes spared from destruction in 1973 when the Edfell (Fire Mountain) volcano erupted, as seen from our walk on top of the lava fields near the harbor, Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

There’s been enough erosion of the Edfell volcano lava field over the past 46 years that plants, including the lupine in the foreground, are now taking over some of the surface of the lave field, Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

The western coast of Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

In the Herjólfur Valley, we were able to visit (including a tour inside) a Viking-era sod-roofed farmhouse that is approximately 1,000 years old – the oldest surviving structure on Heimaey Island, Vestmannaeyjar, Iceland

 

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2019 by Richard C. Edwards. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.