Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawai’i Island, Hawaii, United States of America

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 1 – this park shows the results of 70 million years of volcanism, migration, and evolution in the Hawaiian Island-Emperor Seamount chain; here atop the Kīlauea volcano is the Kīlauea Caldera (Kaluapele), photographed from the Kīlauea Overlook

From the Hawaiian island of Maui, we sailed overnight to the “Big Island” (Island of Hawai’i).  Our first port of call was on the west side, Kailua-Kona, near the Kona Airport, and close to one of the first resorts on the Big Island, Kona Village.  Having been to the Big Island numerous times, we decided to spend the day relaxing at one of the coastal beach resorts (where we had gotten a day pass to use the facilities).  That night we sailed around the west end and along the northern shores to reach the old main port and International Airport at Hilo, the largest and most commercial city on the Island of Hawai’i. 

“The island of Hawaiʻi is the youngest and largest island in the Hawaiian chain.  Nearly twice as big as all of the other Hawaiian Islands combined (hence, its nickname, “Big Island”), its sheer size is awe-inspiring.  You can travel through all but four of the world’s different climate zones here, ranging from Wet Tropical to Polar Tundra, a result of the shielding effect and elevations of the massive volcanoes Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa.  From the many geological features at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park to the snow-capped heights of Maunakea; from the lush valleys of the Hilo and Hāmākua Coasts to the jet-black sands of Punalu’u Beach, the island of Hawaiʻi is an unrivaled expression of the power of nature.” — http://www.gohawaii.com/

With a population of around 40,000, Hilo is the largest settlement in, and the county seat of, Hawaiʻi County, Hawaii, United States of America.  “Located on the northeastern side of the island of Hawaiʻi, Hilo offers breathtaking natural beauty plus all the amenities of a vibrant town.  On the geographic flipside of the volcanic Kohala Coast, the region is blessed with dramatic waterfalls, fertile rainforests and blooming gardens.  It’s also home to Hilo International Airport and is a convenient stop on your way to Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, located 45 minutes south.  A busy farming and fishing area in early times, Hilo evolved into a commercial center for the sugar industry in the 1800s.  Downtown Hilo was built around its crescent-shaped bay and became the seat of county government.  Today, Downtown Hilo is a charming town offering museums, art galleries, shops and restaurants.  The Lil’uokalani Gardens [see our next blog post] is a peaceful respite and features Japanese-style fishponds, pagodas and rock gardens on its 30 acres.” — www.gohawaii.com 

Our first afternoon in Hilo was spent at Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, about an hour’s drive south from the ship’s pier in Hilo.

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 2 – a panorama of the Kīlauea Caldera (Kaluapele) taken from the Kīlauea Overlook

Hawai’i Volcanoes – ‘Ǎina a ke akua I noho ai … Land where the goddess [Pele] dwells:

“Volcanoes are monuments to Earth’s origin, evidence that primordial forces are still at work.  Volcanic eruptions remind us that our planet is ever changing, with its basic processes beyond human control.  As much as we have altered Earth’s face to suit our needs, we can only stand in awe before the power of a volcanic eruption.

“Volcanoes are land builders — they created the Hawaiian Island chain.  Kīlauea and Mauna Loa, two of the world‘s most active volcanoes, still add land to the island of Hawai’i.  Mauna Loa is earth’s most massive mountain with an estimated volume of 19,000 cubic miles.

“Today the summit of Mauna Loa volcano is about 56,000 feet (17,000 meters) above the depressed seafloor — over 27,000 feet (8,230 meters) taller than Mount Everest. 

“Unlike explosive continental volcanoes the more fluid and less gaseous eruptions of Kīlauea and Mauna Loa produce fiery fountains and rivers of molten lava.  Added layer upon layer, the flows created a barren volcanic landscape that became a foundation for life.  Wind and water carried hundreds of species across the vast Pacific.  Some survived, adapted, and prospered on the isolated archipelago, making it a showcase for evolution.  Humans from other Polynesian Islands, Europe, and elsewhere also introduced plants and animals, drastically altering the natural balance that once prevailed. “ – United States National Park Service brochure: Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 3 – steam vents in the Kīlauea Caldera (Kaluapele), photographed from the Kīlauea Overlook

Lapakū I Hawai’i ka wahine, a’o Pele

Pele is most active on the Island of Hawai’i

“Halema’uma’u, a crater located with Kaluapele (Kīlauea caldera), is considered by some to be the residence of the Hawaiian volcanic deity Pelehononuamea, though she visits adjacent Mauna Loa, the largest active volcano on Earth.  Over time, her home has been repeatedly shaped and dramatic ways.

“Famous for hosting, long-lasting lava lakes, Kaluapele underwent a hulihia (a complete change, or overturning) with a series of massive collapses during three months in 2018.  Then in mid-2019, for the first time in modern history, water began to gather at the bottom of Halema’uma’u and formed a lake.

“Ultimately, reaching adapt of 160 feet (49 meters), the short-lived water lake was vaporized and filled by lava during an eruption in December 2020, as Pele continued her work…” – signage at the Visitors’ Center, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, United States National Park Service

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 4 – the large green rectangle on the eastern-facing slope of Mauna Loa is fenced private pastureland, just outside the boundary of Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 5 – the soil around the Kīlauea Caldera rim was lava rock and black lava sand; here, a small shrub has survived the harsh conditions

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 6 – fresh growth on another small shrub we found on the Kīlauea Caldera rim

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 7 – steam vents in a field on the Kīlauea Caldera rim at Kūkamāhuakea (Steam Vents)

At Kūkamāhuakea (Steam Vents), you can see and feel hot water vapor as it billows from the ground in steam vents.  This striking phenomenon is created as ground water seeps down to rocks heated by magma deep underground.  The rocks are so hot that it vaporizes the water, returning it to the surface as steam.

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 8 — a close-up of a steam vent at Kūkamāhuakea (Steam Vents)

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 9 – many steam vents (some of them sulfur, not water) are visible in Kīlauea Caldera, viewed from Kūkamāhuakea (Steam Vents)

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 10 – beautiful ferns on the walk downhill to the entrance to the only walkable lava tube on the rim of Kīlauea Caldera

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 11 – the Nāhuku–Thurston Lava Tube is a walkable 500-year old lave cave on Kīlauea Crater rim

Our small group visiting the park took “a walk through [the now dimly lighted] Nāhuku, known as the Thurston Lava Tube, a 500-year-old lava cave located at an altitude of 3,900 feet [1,189 meters] on Kīlauea Crater in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park.  Lava caves like this are formed when a river of lava gradually builds solid walls and a ceiling.  When the lava flow stops and the last of it passes downhill, a cave is formed.   These caves can be a few feet high and only yards long, or they can stretch for miles with high ceilings. There are several lava tubes you can visit around the island [of Hawai’i] but Nāhuku is the most easily accessible and is a fantastic example of a massive lava cave.  Lit by electric lights, Nāhuku has a flat rock floor and a ceiling height of more than 20 feet [6 meters] in places.  The 600-foot-long [183 meters] cave is a great introduction to lava tube geology.  The solidified drips and waves of once-liquid lava rock clearly show the molten forces that created this cave.” — www.gohawaii.com

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 12 – a broader view of the Kīlauea Caldera from the historic Volcano House Hotel and Rim Restaurant

“The historic Volcano House hotel has existed in various forms and locations at the summit of Kīlauea since 1846.  Lured by the forces of Pelehonuamea [Pele is the goddess of volcanoes and fire and the creator of the Hawaiian Islands], visitors from around the world have gathered at the iconic inn on the edge of one of the world’s most active volcanoes.  On February 7, 1940, the Volcano House burnt to the ground.  A kitchen fire raged out of control and claimed the entire building.  On November 8, 1941, a new hotel opened for business.  This hotel, located across Crater Rim Drive at the caldera’s edge, hosted a fair share of significant guests.  The list of names included Dwight D. Eisenhower, Harry S. Truman, Dr. Charles W. Mayo, John F. Kennedy and Richard M. Nixon as well as many others.” — www.nps.gov

Details on the Volcanoes of the Big Island (Hawai’i)from the web site www.explore-the-big-island.com/hawaii-volcanoes.html

All Hawaii volcanoes have their own distinct features.  While the entire chain of Hawaiian volcanoes extends more than 3 000 miles (nearly 5 000 kilometers) across the Pacific Ocean, most have been quiet for hundreds of thousands, even millions of years.

Six volcanoes coalesced, or joined, to form the Big Island.  The 6 Hawai’i Island volcanoes are (listed here from north to south): Mahukona Volcano, Kohala Volcano, Mauna Kea Volcano, Mauna Loa Volcano, Hualalai Volcano, and Kīlauea. 

Mahukona

Mahukona is an extinct volcano, submerged roughly 1,200 meters beneath the ocean’s surface and approximately 30 miles (48 km) west of Kohala off the northwest coast of the Big Island.  Its last eruption was more than 400,000 years ago.  Lava flows from Hualalai and Kohala volcanoes (along with coral deposits) have buried most of Mahukona Volcano.

Kīlauea — Most Active Volcano on Earth

Of all the Hawaiian volcanoes, only Kīlauea and Mauna Loa have erupted in the last 200 years, most recently in 2022.  Kilauea erupted continuously for more than thirty-five years between January 1983 and August 2018. Most of the flows from the Kilauea eruption have been in a southerly direction from the Pu’u ‘Ō’ō spatter cone on Kilauea’s summit.  Can you walk to the lava flow? Can you watch lava flowing into the ocean?

Your opportunity to view Kilauea’s lava flow is inconsistent at best. For years you could almost always count on being able to watch molten lava ooze straight into the ocean.  The ocean entry stopped abruptly in March 2011 when the floor of the Pu‘u ‘O‘o crater collapsed and redirected the flow.  Since that time lava flow has been unpredictable. 

Beginning in July, 2016, Kilauea’s lava flow once again began entering the ocean at Kamokuna, creating quite a show.  Of course, things can change at a moment’s notice with an active volcano in Hawaii, depending on the whims of Pele, goddess of fire and Hawaiian volcanoes.  This Big Island volcano can be very temperamental! 

Today’s most current information on the Kilauea eruption can be found on the National Park Service website.  If you are hoping to see actual lava flow during your Hawaii vacation, be sure to check here for updates.

Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park

Fun for the entire family, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park  is a great place to explore and learn more about Kilauea and all the Hawaii Island volcanoes. You can see steam vents and the stunning Kilauea caldera (summit crater), and walk through the amazing Thurston Lava Tube.   Tons of great hiking too, from easy to strenuous.  Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is located about 50 minutes from Hilo, and about 2-hours from Kailua-Kona. 

Mauna Kea Volcano

Mauna Kea Volcano is one of the most interesting Hawaii Island volcanoes.  Considered dormant (a sleeping giant), Mauna Kea last erupted about 3,500 years ago.  Mauna Kea is the tallest mountain in the world when measured from its base on the seafloor.  Just below the summit, mysterious Lake Waiau is one of the highest lakes in the US.  The Mauna Kea Observatory, the world’s largest astronomical research facility, is also located near the top of Mauna Kea, visible in this photo above Lake Waiau.

Mauna Loa Volcano

While Kilauea may be the most famous Hawaii volcano, Mauna Loa and Hualalai are also active volcanoes. To be considered active, a volcano will have erupted at least once in the last 10,000 years, and there continues to be sufficient seismic activity below the surface to suggest that another eruption may occur in the next 1,000 years or less. 

Mauna Loa is the largest volcano in the world.  With an elevation of 13,677 feet (4,169 meters) above sea level, Mauna Loa stands an impressive 30,077 feet (9,167 meters) tall from its base on the ocean floor.  It is roughly 3,400 feet (1,036 meters) shorter than Mauna Kea and second only to Kilauea as the most active volcano on the Big Island, erupting at least 33 times since 1843, most recently in 2022.

Hualalai

Hualalai Volcano is the third most active volcano on the Big Island.  Hualalai has historically erupted an average of 2-3 times every 1,000 years.  Its most recent eruption was in 1801

In 1929, intense earthquake activity beneath the surface, lasting for several weeks, was likely caused by rising magma.  Because of this and the fact that it has been over 200 years since its last eruption, Hualalai Volcano is considered a potentially dangerous Hawaii Island volcano that is overdue for an eruption.  However, subsurface activity is continuously monitored, and there has been no recent unusual seismicity.

Kohala – Sleeping Giant

Just northwest of Mauna Kea Volcano, Kohala Volcano is considered extinct, having last erupted 60,000 years ago. Many of the premier Big Island Resorts are built along what is often referred to as the Kohala Coast, although the true coast of the Kohala Volcano is farther to the north.  Hawi and Kapa’au are built on the northern point of this lush volcano, and the town of Waimea sits on its southeast flank.

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