Rurutu (tour part III), Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Casuarina is an evergreen tree, native to Australia, the Indian subcontinent, southeast Asia, islands of the western Pacific Ocean, and eastern Africa, growing to a height of 35 meters [115 feet], Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

During our visit to Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesis, we went for a guided drive around the island.  “The lush landscape reflects the island’s fertile soil and the frequent rain; ‘it’s the Britain of Tahiti,’ [a local inn proprietor] jokes.  In the verdant valleys, torch ginger, papaya, bananas and even tobacco – introduced by the missionaries – run wild.  The most common crop, however, is taro, a rather bland foodstuff that, for some inexplicable reason, is adored by locals.  Back in the day, wars were started by one village raiding another village’s taro crop. Even today, each family’s taro plot is immaculately tended.” — www.traveller.com.au

A refreshment stop on our island driving tour, by a beach, with fresh coconut water (in the husk) and lots of fresh local fruit, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local musicians played Tahitian melodies by the beach during our refreshment stop, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local tatoo, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A coconut palm grove on Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A sweeping view across the Bay of Avera (and the village of Avera), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The village of Avera’s taro fields are probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; they were being cultivated when Captain Cook passed by Rurutu in 1769

“Taro is an important part of the lives of people here in Rurutu; you could argue that it’s the foundation of our culture.  Farming it definitely remains a living tradition.  Viriamu’s brother Meta supplies frozen taro to a supermarket in Tahiti, it earns him a modest living.  I have blogged a fair bit about taro, but the subject is definitely going to be a recurring one!   We probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, in our village Avera [population 919].  It was being cultivated when Captain Cook quickly passed by Rurutu in 1769, and likely for a long time before that.  Last year, we were lucky enough to be featured in the Hana Hou, Hawaiian Airlines inflight magazine.” — http://lifeinrurutu.blogspot.com  [A blog by a Welsh woman, married to a native Rurutu man, who runs a guest house on the island of Rurutu.]

One family’s taro plot near the village of Avera, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Each taro plant can have many stalks and leaves, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; both the root and leaves, when cooked, are edible

Turning over the soil to keep it very moist in a field that was being replanted, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

We visited the village of Avera’s large taro field and watched a couple of men harvest some mature taro plants (for the roots) and then replant the stems still attached to the top of the root (tuber or corm) in holes dug into very moist soil.  As the plants were harvested (whole), by loosening the soil and then pulling the entire plant out of the ground, they were chopped into thirds – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (to be replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked).  One man followed the harvesting and used a spade to dig up and turn over the soil adjacent to a small stream, to keep the field very moist.

The whole taro plant, removed intact from the ground, is cut into 3 parts – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Taro root can be boiled, steamed, baked, or fried — similar to cooking a potato.  However, taro can be toxic to humans if it’s eaten raw, so, it must be cooked thoroughly.  Note that although the root, leaves, and stems (all parts of a taro plant are edible), they must be cooked thoroughly; otherwise, chemicals in the plant will cause itching in the mouth and throat.

Harvested taro roots, trimmed off the stems, ready to go into the home for cooking, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; a typical family of 4 or 5 will consume 2-3 taro roots daily

Coconuts, pandamus leaves and bicycle, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

What stories can this old door tell us?; Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Ana A’eo Cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Limestone formations at Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; it is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.

The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete.  Rurutu offers visitors the “the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves.  Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals.  Each of the island’s 30 or so caves are different, some filled with stalactites and stalagmites, others with verdant ferns growing out of piles of rubble.  The ceiling of Tupumai cave is decorated with shells and corals; the largest cave, Ana a’eo [featured in this blog post], has plenty of stalagmites, and a hole in the top through which locals used to talk to their gods.” — www.traveller.com.au

The most famous cave on the island, Grotte Ana A’eo in the local language, has recently been called the “Mitterrand cave” — after the visit to the cave by the French president in 1990.  It is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.

As the music began, one of the male dancers climbed up on a ledge for dancing and blowing his conch shell as a horn, Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

We were very surprised when we arrived on the path to the cave to hear drum music and then find that there were men and women in traditional costumes on the path, along with our guides and truck drivers, to give us a hand up the steep, rocky path into the grotto.  After a chance to explore the cave, we were then treated to a lengthy Rurutu traditional dance exhibition in the grotto.

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #3

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #4

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #5

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #6

Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #7

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A sandy beach on Rurutu, the most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands — almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete, Tahiti

“There are no overwater bungalows on Rurutu.  No beachfront restaurants offering candlelit dinners, or in-room massages.  No butlers delivering your early-morning coffee, no golf buggies to deliver you to your preferred pool.

“In short, Rurutu is not your typical Polynesian island.  Even its look isn’t quite right.  Rather than being surrounded by a turquoise lagoon, it has a fringing reef that gives it a wilder, more changeable beauty.  Although its shores are scalloped with sandy beaches, what first captures your eye is the cliffs jutting so high that clouds catch on their peaks.

“Not many tourists make it to Rurutu.  The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete, Tahiti.  Most of those travelers who do come here are drawn by one of two attractions. One is the chance to swim with humpback whales, which regularly pass through here with their newborn calves between June and October [we missed the whales, being there in March].  The other is the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves [see our next blog post].  Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals.” — www.traveller.com.au

The island’s inhabitants (2,088 in 2007) are scattered in the three coastal villages of Moerai, Avera and Hauti.  We landed at Moerai harbor in Zodiacs and, after some local refreshments and an excellent performance of traditional Tahitian dances, toured the island in local trucks with a local guide.

These local drummers welcomed us ashore and then provided the music for local dancers in a stunning performance, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Dancers wearing hats locally woven from pandanus fibers at the welcoming celebration adjacent to our landing site in Moerai harbor, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of the local dancers, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The “mama” of the island specialize in the art of pandanus fiber weaving, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Rurutu is famous in French Polynesia for its crafts, basketry and in particular the work of pandanus fiber which provides many families on the island with significant income.  The inhabitants are also specialists in Amora’a ofai (stone lifting). It consists of lifting a stone as quickly as possible from the ground to the shoulder, stabilizing it in a standing position.  The strongest athletes lift up stones that can reach up to 150 kilograms [331 pounds].

A close-up of some pandanus fibers used for weaving after they have been cut and dried (and sometimes dyed, like the green strands in the photo), Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

One of the local pandanus artisans and some of her creations for sale, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local fruits for refreshment – along with fresh coconut water in the husks — while we watched the dance performance and had time for shopping at market stands operated by local artisans, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The best-known work of art produced in the Austral Islands is considered to be the carving of the god A’a, which was discovered in Rurutu and is today exhibited at the British Museum in London. There is a replica in Moerai’s town hall.

Some of the trucks in our convoy for the driving tour of the island were festooned with local flowers, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The village of Moerai, where we arrived in our Zodiacs for a pier landing, is visible at the top end of the long sandy beach, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A beautiful array of blue colors in the waters off Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.