Papeete, Tahiti (a return port call), French Polynesia

The marina harbor in Papeete, Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia and the economic center of the country

Following our expedition to the Tuamoto Archipelago atolls and the Austral Islands, we returned to Papeete (population 27,000) to refuel and load food and supplies for our 13-day sailing journey across the pacific — 4,200 nautical miles — to Manta, Ecuador.  It was nice to have time to explore a little more, as well as time to load up on fresh food at both the Papeete (Public) market and a Carrefours (French) grocery store.  The local pineapples, mangoes, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, vegetables and fresh white tuna filets and pork were all excellent.  We enjoyed many delicious lunches and dinners prepared in our apartment’s kitchen with the Tahitian ingredients.

An over-the-water restaurant along the waterfront park in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

“Queen of the Pacific — The heart and soul of the South Pacific, Tahiti is the largest in a chain of islands that make up French Polynesia.  The name can either refer to the main island or the entire destination.  Commonly referred to as The Islands of Tahiti, French Polynesia is a collection of 118 islands and atolls scattered across an impressive nautical surface area the size of Western Europe.  Still, these tiny islands—many of which remain uninhabited—make up a total landmass of only 1,600 square miles (4,100 sq. km).

“You may be wondering, where is Tahiti?  The islands are situated halfway between Los Angeles, California and Sydney, Australia.  They are in the same time zone as Hawaii and located just as far south of the equator as Hawaii is north.  Since the word often conjures up visions of a distant, unspoiled paradise, many assume them to be far away; but in all reality, Tahiti is only eight hours [by air] from Los Angeles.

“The island of Tahiti is divided into two parts: The larger portion to the northwest is known as Tahiti Nui, while the smaller, southeastern peninsula is known as Tahiti Iti.  Tahiti Nui is dominated by three extinct volcanic mountains including Mount Orohena, the tallest in French Polynesia; Mount Aorai, known for its incredible views; and Le Diadème, which appears to crown the island as the rightful queen.

“Home to the capital city of Papeete, Tahiti is the economic center of French Polynesia.  Since all flights arrive through Faa’a International Airport, your tailored Tahiti vacation will begin and end in Papeete.  While you may be tempted to jet off immediately to the other islands, we recommend staying at least a day or two.  Tahiti strikes an interesting contrast to some of the more quiet, secluded islands in the region; and with a selection of wonderful and convenient Tahiti Resorts available [see our previous blog post on Papeete], you will never regret staying.” — www.tahiti.com/island/tahiti

Memorial site for nuclear tests (conducted by France between 1966 and 1996) that was erected in 2006 in the Marina harbor area of Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

The memorial site for nuclear tests — conducted by France between 1966 and 1996 — was erected in 2006 in the Marina harboor area of Papeete.  “The land and people of Māòhi Nui’s five archipelagos – symbolised by these … stones placed on a traditional paepae faced significant upheaval, as the nuclear tests were imposed on them.  Hiroshima, Nagasaki, Bikini, Enewetak, Montebello, Emu Field, Maralinga, Malden, Kiritimati, Johnston, Moruroa, Fangataufa: the many locations around the Pacific [Ocean] chosen as nuclear test sites by the United States, the United Kingdom and France.  The thousands of former test-site workers and the peoples of the Pacific live with the memory of these weapons, which today still continue to affect their health and environment.” – signage at the memorial site

A locally carved wooden tiki in front of a waterfront restaurant in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

The main shopping street in central Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia; the area has grown a lot and is much more upscale than when we first visited in the 1990s

A large church in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Bougainville Park was named after Count Louis-Antoine de Bougainville (1729-1811) who was a great navigator, explorer and scientist, who commanded the first French expedition to circumnavigate the world, Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Bougainville Park was named after Count Louis-Antoine de Bougainville (1729-1811) who was a great navigator, explorer and scientist, who commanded the first French expedition to circumnavigate the world.  During that expedition in 1768, he made a brief stopover in Tahiti.  The botanist on board the expedition was Philibert Commerson, who discovered a plant in Brazil and named it after Bougainville (Bougainvillea spectabilis).  Commerson’s mistress Jeanne Baret had secretly joined the expedition disguised as a man and is now recognized as the first woman to have circumnavigated the world.

Covering an area of about one acre (0.5 hectare), Bougainville Park was named in 1934 “Albert Square” in honor of the king of the Belgians, who became a symbol of the struggle against Germany during World War I.  In 1968, to celebrate the bicentennial anniversary of Bougainville’s arrival in Tahiti, a series of honorary celebrations took place.  For this occasion, the City Council of Papeete decided to rename the square “Bougainville Park”.  Long neglected, the park underwent renovations in 2003, at the initiative of the Mayor of Papeete.  Nowadays, it is again a friendly, much-used leisure area in the center of the central district by the waterfront.

Assemblee de la Polynesie Française (Territorial Assembly Building – Parliament), Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

“The Assembly of French Polynesia (French: Assemblée de la Polynésie française, Tahitian: Te âpooraa rahi o te fenua Māòhi) is the unicameral legislature of French Polynesia, an averseas country of the French Republic.  It is located at Place Tarahoi in Papeete, Tahiti.  It was established in its current form in 1996 although a Tahitian Assembly was first created in 1824. It consists of 57 members who are elected by popular vote for five years; the electoral system is based upon proportional representation in six multi-seat constituencies.  Every constituency is represented by at least three representatives. Since 2001, the parity bill binds that the number of women matches the number of men elected to the Assembly.” — Wikipedia

A street art mural from a large (annual) art fair a few years ago in Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

A modern apartment building with retail shops on the ground level, Papeete, Tahiti, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

In the southern Austral Islands of French Polynesia, Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt with white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling

Known as the “Bora Bora of the Austral Islands” – one of the five island groups of French Polynesia — Raivavae’s geography is similar with its white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling.  Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt.  The surrounding reef with its numerous uninhabited motus (islands) creates a beautiful shallow lagoon with hues of iridescent blues.  Its highest point, Mt. Hiro, tops out at 438 meters (1,437 feet).  The people maintain an almost subsistence lifestyle farming taro and bananas, and by fishing the outer reef in handmade outrigger canoes much like they have for generations.  The population of the island is about 1,000 people, concentrated in 4 coastal villages.  Our sightseeing by local trucks and guides included stops at taro fields, the tiki of the Princess (the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis), marae sacred temples and Motu Hotuatua.

“As in other southern islands, the cooler climate than in the rest of Polynesia is conducive to market gardening of traditional taro tubers (Colocasia esculenta), coffee trees, mango trees, lychees and banana trees. As a result, many families are self-sufficient. Craftsmanship remains very much alive on the island with the making of traditional shell necklaces, the braiding of hats, and the making of tifaifai [large pieces of fabric with floral and colorful patterns, an emblem of Polynesian craftsmanship].  Moreover, Raivavae remains the only island in French Polynesia where the construction of sewn canoes continues.” — Wikipedia

Several local men formed part of a friendly welcoming committee when we arrived ashore (a wet Zodiac landing), offering each of us a coconut with a small hole in it and a straw for the refreshing coconut water, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local Christian church on Raivavae (Island) near our landing site, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local Tahitian drummers playing music for the dancers (see next photos), Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local women performing traditional Tahitian dances for us, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of one of the Tahitian dancers, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The convoy of local trucks that provided us transportation around the island for our tour, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A taro field, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; taro is one of the staples of the local diet, similarly throughout French Polynesia and, historically, in the Hawaiian Islands

The smiling tiki is the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A Tiki is a sculpture endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force, originating from the Marquesas Islands and usually representing a modified man.  The Tiki is a real emblem of French Polynesia and holds a significant position in the local culture.

“The only remaining tiki (carved humanlike statue) on the island stands in a private garden just to the west of the village of Mahanatoa.  About 1 meter [3.3 feet] in height, it has highly stylised hands and chest as well as clearly outlined eyes. Its curved lips suggest a smile. It’s not signed.” — www.lonelyplanet.com  Two tikis that originated on the island of Raivavae are now in the Paul Gauguin Museum (Musée Gauguin) in Paperai, Tahiti.  The fourth tiki sank into the ocean as it was being transported from Raivavae to Tahiti for the Museum.  The local story is that almost all of the crew members involved in the transport of the tiki died later on, leading to local superstitions. 

Bananas and plantains are very good tasting on Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Marae Pua Pua Tiare features large upright stones that enclose a stone paved area, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; marae are ancient open air sacred temples

Motu Hotuatua, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; legend has it that the motu (island) is the rock laid into the lagoon by a local woman who won a contest of strength with a local man [See story, below.]

“East of the island of Raivavae, emerges from the lagoon the motu Hotuatua, 60 meters [197 feet] high.  According to legend, the women of the village of Vaiuru claimed to be stronger than the men of Anatonu. To find out for sure, the inhabitants decided that a woman from Vaiuru and a man from Anatonu would face off by carrying a huge rock from the top of the mountain and depositing it as far as possible in the lagoon.  The start would take place in the middle of the night and the race would end before the cockcrow.  Shortly after the start of the event, the man, who was very strong, reached the beach with his rock.  Tired, he lay down and fell asleep.  The woman, slowly, ends up laying down her rock, named Hotuatua, in the lagoon.  Then she looked for her competitor and found him dozing on the beach.  So she hid and imitated the crowing of the rooster.  The man woke up suddenly, ran to take his rock, but for fear of being caught by the day, let it fall on the beach.  The woman had won.” – www.tahitileblog-fr

Local fruits served to us for late morning refreshment, including taro (purple, lower left), bananas, mango, watermelon, sugar cane, various cooked potatoes, and coconut meat, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A native flower, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.