Casuarina is an evergreen tree, native to Australia, the Indian subcontinent, southeast Asia, islands of the western Pacific Ocean, and eastern Africa, growing to a height of 35 meters [115 feet], Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
During our visit to Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesis, we went for a guided drive around the island. “The lush landscape reflects the island’s fertile soil and the frequent rain; ‘it’s the Britain of Tahiti,’ [a local inn proprietor] jokes. In the verdant valleys, torch ginger, papaya, bananas and even tobacco – introduced by the missionaries – run wild. The most common crop, however, is taro, a rather bland foodstuff that, for some inexplicable reason, is adored by locals. Back in the day, wars were started by one village raiding another village’s taro crop. Even today, each family’s taro plot is immaculately tended.” — www.traveller.com.au
A refreshment stop on our island driving tour, by a beach, with fresh coconut water (in the husk) and lots of fresh local fruit, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaLocal musicians played Tahitian melodies by the beach during our refreshment stop, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA local tatoo, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA coconut palm grove on Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA sweeping view across the Bay of Avera (and the village of Avera), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaThe village of Avera’s taro fields are probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; they were being cultivated when Captain Cook passed by Rurutu in 1769
“Taro is an important part of the lives of people here in Rurutu; you could argue that it’s the foundation of our culture. Farming it definitely remains a living tradition. Viriamu’s brother Meta supplies frozen taro to a supermarket in Tahiti, it earns him a modest living. I have blogged a fair bit about taro, but the subject is definitely going to be a recurring one! We probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, in our village Avera [population 919]. It was being cultivated when Captain Cook quickly passed by Rurutu in 1769, and likely for a long time before that. Last year, we were lucky enough to be featured in the Hana Hou, Hawaiian Airlines inflight magazine.” — http://lifeinrurutu.blogspot.com [A blog by a Welsh woman, married to a native Rurutu man, who runs a guest house on the island of Rurutu.]
One family’s taro plot near the village of Avera, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaEach taro plant can have many stalks and leaves, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; both the root and leaves, when cooked, are edibleTurning over the soil to keep it very moist in a field that was being replanted, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
We visited the village of Avera’s large taro field and watched a couple of men harvest some mature taro plants (for the roots) and then replant the stems still attached to the top of the root (tuber or corm) in holes dug into very moist soil. As the plants were harvested (whole), by loosening the soil and then pulling the entire plant out of the ground, they were chopped into thirds – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (to be replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked). One man followed the harvesting and used a spade to dig up and turn over the soil adjacent to a small stream, to keep the field very moist.
The whole taro plant, removed intact from the ground, is cut into 3 parts – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
Taro root can be boiled, steamed, baked, or fried — similar to cooking a potato. However, taro can be toxic to humans if it’s eaten raw, so, it must be cooked thoroughly. Note that although the root, leaves, and stems (all parts of a taro plant are edible), they must be cooked thoroughly; otherwise, chemicals in the plant will cause itching in the mouth and throat.
Harvested taro roots, trimmed off the stems, ready to go into the home for cooking, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; a typical family of 4 or 5 will consume 2-3 taro roots dailyCoconuts, pandamus leaves and bicycle, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaWhat stories can this old door tell us?; Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
Limestone formations at Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; it is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.
The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete. Rurutu offers visitors the “the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves. Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals. Each of the island’s 30 or so caves are different, some filled with stalactites and stalagmites, others with verdant ferns growing out of piles of rubble. The ceiling of Tupumai cave is decorated with shells and corals; the largest cave, Ana a’eo [featured in this blog post], has plenty of stalagmites, and a hole in the top through which locals used to talk to their gods.” — www.traveller.com.au
The most famous cave on the island, Grotte Ana A’eo in the local language, has recently been called the “Mitterrand cave” — after the visit to the cave by the French president in 1990. It is the largest and most spectacular cave on the island, with many stalactites and stalagmites.
As the music began, one of the male dancers climbed up on a ledge for dancing and blowing his conch shell as a horn, Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
We were very surprised when we arrived on the path to the cave to hear drum music and then find that there were men and women in traditional costumes on the path, along with our guides and truck drivers, to give us a hand up the steep, rocky path into the grotto. After a chance to explore the cave, we were then treated to a lengthy Rurutu traditional dance exhibition in the grotto.
Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #3Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #4Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #5Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #6Ana Ae’o cave, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia, #7
A sandy beach on Rurutu, the most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands — almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete, Tahiti
“There are no overwater bungalows on Rurutu. No beachfront restaurants offering candlelit dinners, or in-room massages. No butlers delivering your early-morning coffee, no golf buggies to deliver you to your preferred pool.
“In short, Rurutu is not your typical Polynesian island. Even its look isn’t quite right. Rather than being surrounded by a turquoise lagoon, it has a fringing reef that gives it a wilder, more changeable beauty. Although its shores are scalloped with sandy beaches, what first captures your eye is the cliffs jutting so high that clouds catch on their peaks.
“Not many tourists make it to Rurutu. The most northerly island in French Polynesia’s most southerly archipelago, the Austral Islands, Rurutu is almost 60 kilometres [37 miles] south of Papeete, Tahiti. Most of those travelers who do come here are drawn by one of two attractions. One is the chance to swim with humpback whales, which regularly pass through here with their newborn calves between June and October [we missed the whales, being there in March]. The other is the chance to explore the island’s remarkable limestone caves [see our next blog post]. Eroded into soaring cliffs made of ancient coral, these caves were once used as shelter by the locals.” — www.traveller.com.au
The island’s inhabitants (2,088 in 2007) are scattered in the three coastal villages of Moerai, Avera and Hauti. We landed at Moerai harbor in Zodiacs and, after some local refreshments and an excellent performance of traditional Tahitian dances, toured the island in local trucks with a local guide.
These local drummers welcomed us ashore and then provided the music for local dancers in a stunning performance, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaDancers wearing hats locally woven from pandanus fibers at the welcoming celebration adjacent to our landing site in Moerai harbor, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA close-up of the local dancers, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaThe “mama” of the island specialize in the art of pandanus fiber weaving, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
Rurutu is famous in French Polynesia for its crafts, basketry and in particular the work of pandanus fiber which provides many families on the island with significant income. The inhabitants are also specialists in Amora’a ofai (stone lifting). It consists of lifting a stone as quickly as possible from the ground to the shoulder, stabilizing it in a standing position. The strongest athletes lift up stones that can reach up to 150 kilograms [331 pounds].
A close-up of some pandanus fibers used for weaving after they have been cut and dried (and sometimes dyed, like the green strands in the photo), Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaOne of the local pandanus artisans and some of her creations for sale, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaLocal fruits for refreshment – along with fresh coconut water in the husks — while we watched the dance performance and had time for shopping at market stands operated by local artisans, Moerai, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
The best-known work of art produced in the Austral Islands is considered to be the carving of the god A’a, which was discovered in Rurutu and is today exhibited at the British Museum in London. There is a replica in Moerai’s town hall.
Some of the trucks in our convoy for the driving tour of the island were festooned with local flowers, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaThe village of Moerai, where we arrived in our Zodiacs for a pier landing, is visible at the top end of the long sandy beach, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA beautiful array of blue colors in the waters off Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
In the southern Austral Islands of French Polynesia, Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt with white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling
Known as the “Bora Bora of the Austral Islands” – one of the five island groups of French Polynesia — Raivavae’s geography is similar with its white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling. Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt. The surrounding reef with its numerous uninhabited motus (islands) creates a beautiful shallow lagoon with hues of iridescent blues. Its highest point, Mt. Hiro, tops out at 438 meters (1,437 feet). The people maintain an almost subsistence lifestyle farming taro and bananas, and by fishing the outer reef in handmade outrigger canoes much like they have for generations. The population of the island is about 1,000 people, concentrated in 4 coastal villages. Our sightseeing by local trucks and guides included stops at taro fields, the tiki of the Princess (the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis), marae sacred temples and Motu Hotuatua.
“As in other southern islands, the cooler climate than in the rest of Polynesia is conducive to market gardening of traditional taro tubers (Colocasia esculenta), coffee trees, mango trees, lychees and banana trees. As a result, many families are self-sufficient. Craftsmanship remains very much alive on the island with the making of traditional shell necklaces, the braiding of hats, and the making of tifaifai [large pieces of fabric with floral and colorful patterns, an emblem of Polynesian craftsmanship]. Moreover, Raivavae remains the only island in French Polynesia where the construction of sewn canoes continues.” — Wikipedia
Several local men formed part of a friendly welcoming committee when we arrived ashore (a wet Zodiac landing), offering each of us a coconut with a small hole in it and a straw for the refreshing coconut water, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA local Christian church on Raivavae (Island) near our landing site, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaLocal Tahitian drummers playing music for the dancers (see next photos), Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaLocal women performing traditional Tahitian dances for us, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA close-up of one of the Tahitian dancers, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaThe convoy of local trucks that provided us transportation around the island for our tour, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA taro field, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; taro is one of the staples of the local diet, similarly throughout French Polynesia and, historically, in the Hawaiian IslandsThe smiling tiki is the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
A Tiki is a sculpture endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force, originating from the Marquesas Islands and usually representing a modified man. The Tiki is a real emblem of French Polynesia and holds a significant position in the local culture.
“The only remaining tiki (carved humanlike statue) on the island stands in a private garden just to the west of the village of Mahanatoa. About 1 meter [3.3 feet] in height, it has highly stylised hands and chest as well as clearly outlined eyes. Its curved lips suggest a smile. It’s not signed.” — www.lonelyplanet.com Two tikis that originated on the island of Raivavae are now in the Paul Gauguin Museum (Musée Gauguin) in Paperai, Tahiti. The fourth tiki sank into the ocean as it was being transported from Raivavae to Tahiti for the Museum. The local story is that almost all of the crew members involved in the transport of the tiki died later on, leading to local superstitions.
Bananas and plantains are very good tasting on Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaMarae Pua Pua Tiare features large upright stones that enclose a stone paved area, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; marae are ancient open air sacred templesMotu Hotuatua, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; legend has it that the motu (island) is the rock laid into the lagoon by a local woman who won a contest of strength with a local man [See story, below.]
“East of the island of Raivavae, emerges from the lagoon the motu Hotuatua, 60 meters [197 feet] high. According to legend, the women of the village of Vaiuru claimed to be stronger than the men of Anatonu. To find out for sure, the inhabitants decided that a woman from Vaiuru and a man from Anatonu would face off by carrying a huge rock from the top of the mountain and depositing it as far as possible in the lagoon. The start would take place in the middle of the night and the race would end before the cockcrow. Shortly after the start of the event, the man, who was very strong, reached the beach with his rock. Tired, he lay down and fell asleep. The woman, slowly, ends up laying down her rock, named Hotuatua, in the lagoon. Then she looked for her competitor and found him dozing on the beach. So she hid and imitated the crowing of the rooster. The man woke up suddenly, ran to take his rock, but for fear of being caught by the day, let it fall on the beach. The woman had won.” – www.tahitileblog-fr
Local fruits served to us for late morning refreshment, including taro (purple, lower left), bananas, mango, watermelon, sugar cane, various cooked potatoes, and coconut meat, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French PolynesiaA native flower, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia
Where in the world is Riccardo? 