Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand (2024)

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 1 – opened on February 14, 1998, Te Papa Tongarewa (usually known as “Te Papa”), the (national) Museum of New Zealand, tells the story of the country’s diverse art and visual culture, with a large section on the history and culture of the native New Zealanders, the Mãori peoplev

We walked along the Wellington waterfront a little north of Wellington Central (the CBD, or Central Business District) to a strikingly modern large building that houses Te Papa Tongarewa (usually known as “Te Papa”), the (national) Museum of New Zealand.  Packed with national treasures, the museum is the most visited museum in Oceania.  Its six stories of exhibitions showcase aspects of the country’s diverse art and visual culture, with a large section on the history and culture of the native New Zealanders, the Mãori people. 

Te Papa Tongarewa means “container of treasures”.  The museum presents the treasures of Aotearoa New Zealand’s land and people, and their stories are told authoritatively and passionately.  The museum is built on a unique bicultural partnership that recognizes and celebrates Mãori as tangata whenua – the original people of the land.

Te Papa Tongarewa (Museum of New Zealand) tells the full story of the country, through collections and exhibitions on the art, science, and natural history of New Zealand.  It was “created in 1992 when the National Art Gallery and the National Museum merged under a parliamentary act.  The name Te Papa Tongarewa translates to “our container of treasured things and people that spring from mother earth here in New Zealand” in Māori… The Te Papa in the 21st century comprises five major collections, focusing on art, history, Mãori taonga (cultural treasures), Pacific cultures, and natural history.  The art collection specializes in New Zealand and international painting, sculpture, prints, watercolours, drawings, and photographs; the history division focuses on New Zealand’s cultural heritage but also includes items from Asia, Australia, Africa, and the Americas, notably relics of James Cook; the Māori taonga section contains taonga, including artifacts and carvings; the Pacific cultures unit comprises historical and contemporary objects from the Pacific Islands; and the natural history collection houses plant and animal specimens.” — www.britannica.com/topic/National-Museum-of-New-Zealand

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 2 – waka taua (war canoe) named Teremoe, 1820s – 1840s?, by an unknown maker, Te Ãti hau Nui a Pãpãrangi, made from tõtaera wood

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 3 – the waka (war canoe) exhibition was curated and created by Te Rawhitiroa Bosch alongside the waka community; all photos are by Te Rawhitiroa Bosch (unless otherwise noted in the exhibition)

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 4 – Billy Harrison (1994-), Ngãti Kahu, Te Rarawa, Muriwhenua: Ngã Hoe – Te Waka o Tamarēreti (The Paddles – The Canoe of Tamarēreto) 2020; rewarewa, kauri, totara, and pũriri wood; acrylic paint

“Billy Harrison carved these 10 hoe (paddles) to represent Te Waka o Tamarēreti – a series of stars and clusters used in traditional navigation.  Each of the first nine hoe corresponds with a verse of the karakia (incantation) on the wall at your left.  The tenth hoe represents Hekenukumai – a star named after the master navigator and carver Hekenukumai Busby, who died in 2019.  Hoe were primarily used to paddle waka, but they were also weapons and a symbol of journeying.  They were highly valued, and often carved and adorned with kõwhaiwhai patterns.” – signage at Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa)

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 5 – Poupou, wall carving; carved by Mauriora Kingi Tūhourangi and Ngãti Raukawa iwi (tribes); made of wood

In Māori, iwi roughly means ‘people’ or ‘nation’, and is often translated as “tribe”, or “a confederation of tribes”.  The word is both singular and plural in the Māori language and is typically pluralized as such in English.

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 6 – carved Mãori “totem poles”

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 7 – Rongomaraeroa, a modern marae — marae are used for hui (meetings), āhuareka (celebrations), tangi (funerals), educational workshops and other important tribal events; a marae incorporates a wharenui (carved meeting house), a marae ātea (an open space in front), a wharekai (a dining hall and cooking area), and a toilet and shower block

The Rongomaraeroa marae offers a singular experience within Te Papa and is also unique within Aotearoa; it is Te Papa’s response to the challenge of creating an authentic yet inclusive marae for the 21st century.  The name of the pictured marae is Te Hono ki Hawaiki, which means the link with the ancestral homelands.  The carvings depict the ancestors who make this living link.

Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa), Wellington, North Island, New Zealand, photograph # 8 – the signage on this waka (war canoe) says “Touch with aroha – care and respect”

Te Aurere Iti (the name of the waka — war canoe — pictured above) is a one-third scale replica of the waka hourua Te Aurere, built by master navigator. Hekenukumai Busby.  He made the replica for Te Papa’s opening – to inspire connections to our ancestor and their voyages, now and into the future.  The waka (war canoe) is made of tõtara wood (hull), muka fibre (sails and ropes), and sennit (coconut-husk fibre cord) – purchased by the Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa Tongarewa) in 1997.

Although we did not take any photographs in the newest temporary exhibition (opened in April 2024), Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War, we found it very educational and realistic in telling the story of the first World War I battles fought by the combined Australian and New Zealand army forces (known as “ANZAC”), from 19 February 1915 to 9 January 1916.  The battles were all fought along the waterfront of the Dardanelles, a little south of Istanbul (Constantinople), with the objective of creating a passage through the Dardanelles by taking control of the Ottoman Straits and then exposing Constantinople to naval battleship gunfire.  The heaviest fighting in Gallipoli was from May, with the landing at Anzac Cove, to the summer of 1915, with horrific losses (for New Zealand) in the Battle of Chunuk Bair in August, among others.  For readers not familiar with this horrific series of battles, the campaign was a disaster for the ANZAC forces — with approximately 250,000 casualties — who were beaten by the local Turks (defending their homeland).  The Turks had joined sides earlier in World War I with the Germans against the Entente powers, Britain (and its Commonwealth nations), France and the Russian Empire.

“The campaign became the basis for the Turkish War of Independence and the declaration of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, with Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who rose to prominence as a commander at Gallipoli, as founder and president.  The campaign is often considered to be the beginning of Australian and New Zealand  national consciousness.  The anniversary of the landings, 25 April, is known as ANZAC Day, the most significant commemoration of military casualties and veterans in the two countries, surpassing Remembrance Day (Armistice Day).” — Wikipedia

Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War combines the world of museums with the world-class creative artistry of Weta Workshop to immerse you in the eight-month Gallipoli campaign.  The ground-breaking exhibition tells the story through the eyes and words of eight ordinary New Zealanders who found themselves in extraordinary circumstances.  Each is captured frozen in a moment of time on a monumental scale – 2.4 times human size.  The giant sculptures took a staggering 24,000 hours to create, and countless hours were spent researching their rich histories.  Cutting-edge technology was also used to create 3-D maps and projections, miniatures, models, dioramas, and a range of interactive experiences that bring New Zealand’s Gallipoli story to life.  In total, 2,779 Kiwis lost their lives on Gallipoli, and many others were scarred forever.  Gallipoli: The Scale of Our War takes you to the core of this defining event.” — www.tepapa.govt.nz/visit/exhibitions/gallipoli-scale-our-war

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

In the southern Austral Islands of French Polynesia, Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt with white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling

Known as the “Bora Bora of the Austral Islands” – one of the five island groups of French Polynesia — Raivavae’s geography is similar with its white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling.  Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt.  The surrounding reef with its numerous uninhabited motus (islands) creates a beautiful shallow lagoon with hues of iridescent blues.  Its highest point, Mt. Hiro, tops out at 438 meters (1,437 feet).  The people maintain an almost subsistence lifestyle farming taro and bananas, and by fishing the outer reef in handmade outrigger canoes much like they have for generations.  The population of the island is about 1,000 people, concentrated in 4 coastal villages.  Our sightseeing by local trucks and guides included stops at taro fields, the tiki of the Princess (the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis), marae sacred temples and Motu Hotuatua.

“As in other southern islands, the cooler climate than in the rest of Polynesia is conducive to market gardening of traditional taro tubers (Colocasia esculenta), coffee trees, mango trees, lychees and banana trees. As a result, many families are self-sufficient. Craftsmanship remains very much alive on the island with the making of traditional shell necklaces, the braiding of hats, and the making of tifaifai [large pieces of fabric with floral and colorful patterns, an emblem of Polynesian craftsmanship].  Moreover, Raivavae remains the only island in French Polynesia where the construction of sewn canoes continues.” — Wikipedia

Several local men formed part of a friendly welcoming committee when we arrived ashore (a wet Zodiac landing), offering each of us a coconut with a small hole in it and a straw for the refreshing coconut water, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local Christian church on Raivavae (Island) near our landing site, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local Tahitian drummers playing music for the dancers (see next photos), Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local women performing traditional Tahitian dances for us, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of one of the Tahitian dancers, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The convoy of local trucks that provided us transportation around the island for our tour, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A taro field, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; taro is one of the staples of the local diet, similarly throughout French Polynesia and, historically, in the Hawaiian Islands

The smiling tiki is the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A Tiki is a sculpture endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force, originating from the Marquesas Islands and usually representing a modified man.  The Tiki is a real emblem of French Polynesia and holds a significant position in the local culture.

“The only remaining tiki (carved humanlike statue) on the island stands in a private garden just to the west of the village of Mahanatoa.  About 1 meter [3.3 feet] in height, it has highly stylised hands and chest as well as clearly outlined eyes. Its curved lips suggest a smile. It’s not signed.” — www.lonelyplanet.com  Two tikis that originated on the island of Raivavae are now in the Paul Gauguin Museum (Musée Gauguin) in Paperai, Tahiti.  The fourth tiki sank into the ocean as it was being transported from Raivavae to Tahiti for the Museum.  The local story is that almost all of the crew members involved in the transport of the tiki died later on, leading to local superstitions. 

Bananas and plantains are very good tasting on Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Marae Pua Pua Tiare features large upright stones that enclose a stone paved area, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; marae are ancient open air sacred temples

Motu Hotuatua, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; legend has it that the motu (island) is the rock laid into the lagoon by a local woman who won a contest of strength with a local man [See story, below.]

“East of the island of Raivavae, emerges from the lagoon the motu Hotuatua, 60 meters [197 feet] high.  According to legend, the women of the village of Vaiuru claimed to be stronger than the men of Anatonu. To find out for sure, the inhabitants decided that a woman from Vaiuru and a man from Anatonu would face off by carrying a huge rock from the top of the mountain and depositing it as far as possible in the lagoon.  The start would take place in the middle of the night and the race would end before the cockcrow.  Shortly after the start of the event, the man, who was very strong, reached the beach with his rock.  Tired, he lay down and fell asleep.  The woman, slowly, ends up laying down her rock, named Hotuatua, in the lagoon.  Then she looked for her competitor and found him dozing on the beach.  So she hid and imitated the crowing of the rooster.  The man woke up suddenly, ran to take his rock, but for fear of being caught by the day, let it fall on the beach.  The woman had won.” – www.tahitileblog-fr

Local fruits served to us for late morning refreshment, including taro (purple, lower left), bananas, mango, watermelon, sugar cane, various cooked potatoes, and coconut meat, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A native flower, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.