Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

In the southern Austral Islands of French Polynesia, Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt with white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling

Known as the “Bora Bora of the Austral Islands” – one of the five island groups of French Polynesia — Raivavae’s geography is similar with its white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling.  Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt.  The surrounding reef with its numerous uninhabited motus (islands) creates a beautiful shallow lagoon with hues of iridescent blues.  Its highest point, Mt. Hiro, tops out at 438 meters (1,437 feet).  The people maintain an almost subsistence lifestyle farming taro and bananas, and by fishing the outer reef in handmade outrigger canoes much like they have for generations.  The population of the island is about 1,000 people, concentrated in 4 coastal villages.  Our sightseeing by local trucks and guides included stops at taro fields, the tiki of the Princess (the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis), marae sacred temples and Motu Hotuatua.

“As in other southern islands, the cooler climate than in the rest of Polynesia is conducive to market gardening of traditional taro tubers (Colocasia esculenta), coffee trees, mango trees, lychees and banana trees. As a result, many families are self-sufficient. Craftsmanship remains very much alive on the island with the making of traditional shell necklaces, the braiding of hats, and the making of tifaifai [large pieces of fabric with floral and colorful patterns, an emblem of Polynesian craftsmanship].  Moreover, Raivavae remains the only island in French Polynesia where the construction of sewn canoes continues.” — Wikipedia

Several local men formed part of a friendly welcoming committee when we arrived ashore (a wet Zodiac landing), offering each of us a coconut with a small hole in it and a straw for the refreshing coconut water, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local Christian church on Raivavae (Island) near our landing site, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local Tahitian drummers playing music for the dancers (see next photos), Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local women performing traditional Tahitian dances for us, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of one of the Tahitian dancers, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The convoy of local trucks that provided us transportation around the island for our tour, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A taro field, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; taro is one of the staples of the local diet, similarly throughout French Polynesia and, historically, in the Hawaiian Islands

The smiling tiki is the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A Tiki is a sculpture endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force, originating from the Marquesas Islands and usually representing a modified man.  The Tiki is a real emblem of French Polynesia and holds a significant position in the local culture.

“The only remaining tiki (carved humanlike statue) on the island stands in a private garden just to the west of the village of Mahanatoa.  About 1 meter [3.3 feet] in height, it has highly stylised hands and chest as well as clearly outlined eyes. Its curved lips suggest a smile. It’s not signed.” — www.lonelyplanet.com  Two tikis that originated on the island of Raivavae are now in the Paul Gauguin Museum (Musée Gauguin) in Paperai, Tahiti.  The fourth tiki sank into the ocean as it was being transported from Raivavae to Tahiti for the Museum.  The local story is that almost all of the crew members involved in the transport of the tiki died later on, leading to local superstitions. 

Bananas and plantains are very good tasting on Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Marae Pua Pua Tiare features large upright stones that enclose a stone paved area, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; marae are ancient open air sacred temples

Motu Hotuatua, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; legend has it that the motu (island) is the rock laid into the lagoon by a local woman who won a contest of strength with a local man [See story, below.]

“East of the island of Raivavae, emerges from the lagoon the motu Hotuatua, 60 meters [197 feet] high.  According to legend, the women of the village of Vaiuru claimed to be stronger than the men of Anatonu. To find out for sure, the inhabitants decided that a woman from Vaiuru and a man from Anatonu would face off by carrying a huge rock from the top of the mountain and depositing it as far as possible in the lagoon.  The start would take place in the middle of the night and the race would end before the cockcrow.  Shortly after the start of the event, the man, who was very strong, reached the beach with his rock.  Tired, he lay down and fell asleep.  The woman, slowly, ends up laying down her rock, named Hotuatua, in the lagoon.  Then she looked for her competitor and found him dozing on the beach.  So she hid and imitated the crowing of the rooster.  The man woke up suddenly, ran to take his rock, but for fear of being caught by the day, let it fall on the beach.  The woman had won.” – www.tahitileblog-fr

Local fruits served to us for late morning refreshment, including taro (purple, lower left), bananas, mango, watermelon, sugar cane, various cooked potatoes, and coconut meat, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A native flower, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Fakarava Atoll (north), Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

The northern motu’s shoreline of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia, where we spent a wonderful day ashore in “paradise”

As noted in our previous blog, Fakarava, Havaiki-te-araro, Havai’i or Farea is an atoll in the west of the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia.  It is the second largest of the Tuamotu atolls.  After spending a day in the southern end of the lagoon, early the next morning we sailed north near the northern entry channel where we spent the day with activities ashore on the beach (reached via Zodiacs and a wet landing). 

Following natural history walks with our onboard guest expedition guides, we had an excellent beach BBQ luncheon on the beach.  After lunch, a group of local musicians and two dancers shared local music and dances with us.  The afternoon was a water sports “beach day” with sea kayaking, water bikes, paddle boards, and swimming.  (It was too shallow for snorkeling along the shoreline.)

Our ship viewed through some coconut palm trees on the beach, Fakarava atoll (north), Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A typical shoreline private residence, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A beautiful shell necklace for sale by a local artist, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Two local dancers with the leader of the musical group, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Local musicians playing traditional Tahitian songs, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A close-up of one of the dancers, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Fakarava Atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

The view towards our ship in the late afternoon after we rode a Zodiac to a beach (a wet landing) on a tiny motu (island) that forms part of the Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, in northern French Polynesia

Fakarava, Havaiki-te-araro, Havai’i or Farea is an atoll in the west of the Tuamotu group in French Polynesia. It is the second largest of the Tuamotu atolls. Fakarava was classified as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2016.  The lagoon is accessible through two passes, one in the north and one in the south.  We sailed in from Rangiroa through the northern pass early in the morning and sailed the length 037 miles/60 kilometers) of the lagoon to the southern end where we dynamically positioned (anchoring is forbidden) for the day’s activities – SCUBA diving and snorkeling in the morning and a long Zodiac ride to a very small motu (island/sandbank) for a wet landing and nature walk (with refreshments from the ship served on the beach).

We enjoyed some truly outstanding reef snorkeling in the morning, with gorgeous corals in many colors and a variety of shapes and geometric patterns – one of the best corals displays now available in any ocean in the world, according to our international guide.  Another highlight was an underwater school of cornet fish (also known as flutemouths) that seemed as long as the Russian truck convey moving south towards Kyiv, Ukraine, right now.  The school of cornet fish ended up surrounding us after we swam through the horizontal “column” of fish.  It was really stunning to see them just inches away from our face masks.

An old stump on the water’s edge on a tiny motu (island) that forms part of the Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Rocks on the water’s edge of the “beach”, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Three trees, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Your blogger’s late afternoon shadow looking at a motu (island) adjacent to the outer reef of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Beach composition, Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A motu (island) adjacent to the outer reef of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A geometric pattern from the gentle waves at Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia
One of our Zodiacs exploring the lagoon and motus (islands) of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

A new (temporary) shell helmet for a hermit crab on a motu (island) of Fakarava atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Rangiroa Atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

We sailed into the Rangiroa atoll through a channel barely wider than our ship to this small town at the inlet to Rangiroa lagoon; Rangiroa is the 2nd largest atoll in the world, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Rangiroa atoll in northern French Polynesia is about 355 kilometers [221 miles] northeast of Tahiti and home to about 2,500 people.  Rangiroa Atoll, part of the Tuamoto Archipelago, is the 2nd largest atoll in the world, a 120 mile [193 kilometers] long chain of motus (sandbank islands) enclosing the colossal lagoon that covers over 600 square miles [1,550 sq. kilometers].  (The other archipelagos of French Polynesia are Society Islands, Gambier, Australes and Marquesas Islands.)  Many of the inhabited atolls in French Polynesia have a small airstrip and the communities are served by cargo ships from Tahiti weekly, monthly, or less frequently.  The two main activities of the paradise island of Rangiroa are scuba diving and pearl farming.  The government of French Polynesia limits entry into the atolls to ships less than 200 meters [656 feet] in length – we are probably the largest ship to have ever entered these atolls, coming in just under the 200-meter limit (at 196.35 meters/644 feet). 

We couldn’t go ashore at Rangiroa because we were in our 72-hour partial-isolation quarantine in our quarters following embarkation, to minimize the possibility that we caught COVID-19 in route and could be asymptomatic and spread the disease onboard.  Hence, this blog’s images were all taken from our deck as we sailed into and out of the atoll’s lagoon. 

Sailboats in the harbor of a town at the very narrow inlet to Rangiroa lagoon, Rangiroa atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Viewed from the air, the Tuamotus are a stunning chain of cerulean lagoons in northern French Polynesia that appear to float like a flowered lei in the tropical Pacific Ocean.  Each atoll is dotted by a string of islands or “motu” (sandbank islands) that are themselves ringed by the most perfect beaches.  Every atoll is surrounded by a tropical reef and a prismatic array of marine life resulting in nested loops of natural wonder that reveal themselves at every level of inspection.  The Tuamotus are known for some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. The narrow channels through which the atolls exchange water with the nourishing oceanic waters are hotspots for concentrations of organisms from dazzling corals to reef-obscuring aggregations of fish and charismatic predators like sharks and dolphins.  On land, life moves slowly under colonnades of coconut palms.  Tiny villages accented by blue roofed churches are home to friendly islanders that exude contentment with their unfrenzied lifestyle.

Sailing out of the lagoon of Rangiroa atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

To understand the creation of a coral atoll over millions of years, see this site from the US National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s National Ocean Service website:

oceanservice.noaa.gov/education/tutorial_corals/media/supp_coral04a.html

Sailing out past the tip of the motu (island) at the inlet of the lagoon of Rangiroa atoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Sailing out of the very narrow inlet of the lagoon of Rangiroaatoll, Tuamoto Archipelago, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.