Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway

Posted on August 10, 2023 by richardcedwards

The most fascinating and informative experience we had in Nordfjordeid was our visit to the landmark Sagastad Viking Center (“knowledge center” and museum) in the center of town on the shore of the fjord that opened in 2019. The museum focuses on the Viking history of the region and contains the 30 meters (98 feet) long reconstructed Viking long ship, the Myklebust ship (built over 1,150 years ago), the largest Viking long ship ever discovered in Norway. The center houses an interactive exhibition that presents the history of the Viking age in the region. It is divided into three main sections, “Nordfjordeid in the Viking Age”, “The findings of Myklebust ” and information about the Myklebust ship itself, including further information about long ships and the construction methods used.

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 2 – the reconstructed, full-size Myklebust ship is unique in Norway in that visitors can board the ship and begin to visualize what life at sea and in war battles was like for the Vikings in the 800s A.D., the era of the original Myklebust ship that was burned as a funeral pyre in 870 A.D. for the Viking king, Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson, who ruled the kingdom of Firda (Firðafylkí) – present day Nordfjordeid

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 3 – the hand carved bow of the reconstructed full-size Myklebust ship (the original was burned as part of a funeral ritual for the Viking king, Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson in 870 A.D.)

“The Myklebust gravemound known as Rundehågjen is both the last and largest cremation grave found from the Viking Age. It was excavated in 1874 by Anders Lorange.

“He came to Nordfjordeid from Bergen in 1874 to investigate the large burial mound that is locally called “Rundehågjen” or “Lisje Skjoratippen”. The mound stands on Myklebust farm which used to house 5 burial mounds. But this very mound turned out to be unique.

“The mound was about 30 meters in diameter, was almost 4 meters tall, and had a wide moat around it. The mound contained the remains of a unique Viking ship and a number of high-status objects from the end of the ninth century. The sumptuous burial remains in the mound and traces of the mysterious rituals performed at the burial, provided a fascinating insight into the way of life and worldview of the Norse society that lived in Nordfjordeid more than a thousand years ago.

“The ship in the mound was named Myklebustskipet, after the farm name where it was found. Unfortunately, the ship came in the shadow of the Viking ships that were found some years later: the Gokstad ship in 1880 and the Oseberg ship in 1904. The reason was that the Gokstad ship and the Oseberg ship were found intact, while the Myklebust ship had been burned during the burial. There was therefore not much to see of the Myklebust ship.“ – Wikipedia

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 4 — the hand carved stern, with the side rudder, of the reconstructed full-size Myklebust ship (the original was burned as part of a funeral ritual for the Viking king, Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson in 870 A.D.)

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 5 – visitors are able to climb up to the deck of the reconstructed full-size Myklebust ship; note that the round shields on the sides of the ship were removed and worn by the Vikings during battle and barely visible, below each shield, were holes in the hull for the insertion of very long oars which were used when the winds were not favorable for sailing

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 6 – a side view of the deck of the reconstructed full-size Myklebust ship; note the front seat (with a shield and spear) where the Viking King may have been seated

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 7 – a museum display depicting what the area around the museum may have looked like in the period when the Vikings lived there, circa 870 A.D.

“The exhibition claims that King Audbjørn of the Fjords final resting place was in the Myklebust grave. The King was mentioned in the Sagas and died in the battle of Solskjell in the year of 876. The colossal size of the Myklebustship suggests it was owned by a powerful chieftain and the ship is also dated to the late 9th century. Nordfjordeid was the center of power in the old kingdom of Firda during this period.” – Wikipedia

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 8 – a poster in the museum depicting what the Viking King Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson may have appeared like in period around 870 A.D., before his death in an historical naval battle with the Viking King Harald Hairfair who successfully united the Viking Kingdoms in Norway in 872 A.D.

Wikipedia has a brief explanation of the relevant portion of the Viking Age history, along with an outline of the death of the Viking King Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson:

“During the 7th century, the farm Myklebust (mykill) was the home of the Viking king, Audbjörn Frøybjørnsson, who ruled the kingdom of Firda (Firðafylkí) [the region around Nordfjordeid, Norway]. Myklebust was the largest farm in Nordfjordeid (Eygis) and the center of power in Firda. Based on archeological evidence it is assumed that Nordfjordeid was the home of a family dynasty that ruled the area for centuries prior. The inhabitants were known as Norðfirðir, and were mainly farmers and merchants. There were archeological finds of Saxon objects that originated from Ireland, thus it is believed that the Vikings of the farm participated in the Great Heathen Army, that conquered eastern Mercia during the 8th century. Nordfjordeid was strategically well placed, with large amounts of land available for agriculture, timber and other natural resources. The residents could easily prepare for incoming attacks as the only way to arrive was through the Eidsfjord, offering many vantage points, allowing early warnings when unknown travelers were spotted. Being close to the coast made travel easy, both north and south in Norway, and also toward England.

“Audbjörn was killed during the second battle of Solskjel in 870 against Harald Hairfair. Harald was on a quest to unite Norway under one rule leading to the Unification of Norway. Audbjörn wanted to maintain the current structure of petty kingdoms in Norway, in order to maintain his power. When news arrived that Harald was marching south from Trondheiim, with a massive army, Audbjörn and King Arnvid of Sunnmøre gathered an army to defend their territories. A massive battle ensued with many casualties on both sides. Both kings fell during the battle. Audbjörn was returned home to Nordfjordeid, and buried in the gravemound known as “Rundehogjen” with the original Myklebust Ship. Excavations of the burial mound in 1864 resulted in the findings of a male skeleton aged approximately 25–35 with shoulder damage resulting from a sword or axe. The age of the ship and skeleton date back to the late 800s, confirming that Audbjörn was buried in the location.”

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 9 – a close-up of the wooden Viking shields and the long oar holes in the hull; note that the Vikings used iron rivets to join the wooden planks to form the hull of the ship (the reconstructed ship’s plans are based on the burned remains — including over 7,000 of the original rivets — of the actual Myklebust ship found under a Viking burial mound in Nordfjordeid near the site of the museum)

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 10 – we were very surprised during our visit to the museum to learn that at 3 p.m. that afternoon the summer workshop orchestra comprised of musicians from across Norway and studying together for 2 weeks over the summer in Nordfjordeid, Vestlandsk Sommarsymfoni, were performing a “pop up” concert for 30 minutes at the museum – see the next photograph – in advance of their planned concert the next night at the Nordfjordeid Opera House

Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 11 – musicians of the summer orchestra studying in Nordfjordeid, Vestlandsk Sommarsymfoni, performing classical and chamber music, along with 2 songs from ABBA, at the museum in a “pop up” concert in front of the reconstructed full-size Myklebust Viking ship

For our readers who would like more details about the discovery of the famous Myklebust Viking ship and King Audbjørn of Nordfjordeid, we recommend the online, well-illustrated (with photographs) article from the “Viking Herald” titled “Here’s what you need to know about the famous Myklebust Viking ship” by Jonathan Williamson, published recently:

https://thevikingherald.com/article/here-s-what-you-need-to-know-about-the-famous-myklebust-viking-ship/251

Nordfjordeid, Norway

Posted on August 8, 2023 by richardcedwards

Our last port on our two-week exploration of Norway this year was the small town of Nordfjordeid, hidden in the fjords of Western Norway, almost due east of our prior port, the small town of Måløy that is known for its commercial fishing industry and the outstanding collection of outdoor wall murals [see our blog post, “Måløy, Norway”]. Nordfjordeid is located in the region of Nordfjord and lies at the eastern end of the Eidsfjord, an arm of the main Nordfjorden, and the town is west of the large fresh-water lake Hornindalsvatnet, which drains to the fjord through the Eidselva (Eid River) which flows through the southern side of Nordfjordeid.

The heart of the small town (population of around 6,000) has old wooden homes and old wooden commercial (protected) buildings (built in the 1700s and 1800s) with cafés, restaurants and shops with artisanal goods found only in Nordfjordeid. The white-painted wooden Eid Church dates to 1849 (it is the fourth church to be built in town – the prior ones all burned down). The most visited attraction in town is the Sagastad Viking Center that contains the reconstructed Viking long ship, the Myklebust ship (built over 1,000 years ago), the largest Viking long ship ever discovered in Norway. [See our upcoming blog, “Sagastad Viking Center, Nordfjordeid, Norway”.]

Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 2 – a close-up of one of the old wooden commercial (protected) buildings (built in the 1700s and 1800s)

Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 3 — a close-up of one of the old wooden commercial (protected) buildings (built in the 1700s and 1800s)

Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 4 –the white-painted wooden Eid Church dates to 1849 (it is the fourth church to be built in town – the prior ones all burned down)

Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 5 – one morning we joined a small group for a hike through the region around the town, as well as through town to head back to the pier where our ship was docked

Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 6 – our hike took us along the Eidselva (Eid River) which flows through the southern side of Nordfjordeid

Nordfjordeid, Norway, photograph # 7 – on the hiking path along the Eidselva (Eid River) was a small hut set up for locals to enjoy a picnic or barbecue

Interestingly (actually amazingly!), Nordfjordeid has its own opera house. “The Opera House is in fact (and we are serious) the second Opera House in the entirety of Norway. That’s right, there is one in the capital city of Oslo and one in Nordfjordeid. Not only does Nordfjordeid have its own Opera House [opened in 2009], it even has its own Opera company. An opera company that produces annual productions, of some of the most well-known operas out there. The building also houses the local high school.

“Many of the 6000 inhabitants in the municipality are heavily interested in culture. They strongly wanted a concert hall with good facilities for performing music. What to do when you don`t have much money? You seek partnerships and contribute with voluntary work. The Opera House is financed by national, regional, and local funds. In addition, there are sponsorships, and numerous hours of voluntary work. In the past twenty years, all the most appreciated operas have been performed here, such as La Boheme, Carmen, Eugene Onegin, La Traviata, to mention some. The Opera House has 534 seats in an amfi theatre with perfect acoustics for music. Focusing on culture has been successful, and the opera company and the opera house are both highly appreciated by everyone in the small town today.” — https://portofnordfjordeid.no/nordfjordeid-in-a-nutshell/

Måløy, Norway

Posted on August 7, 2023 by richardcedwards

Linked to the Norwegian mainland by the Måløybrua Bridge and surrounded by the Stadhavet, Måløy on the island of Vågsøy is one of the country’s largest fishery ports. Måløy is located at the end of the Nordfjord, right off the coast of Vestland – where the fjord meets the sea. The city center is located on Vågsøy island with its back to the sea and is a safe haven for boat traffic when the stormy weather prevents the crossing of the Stadhavet (Stad Sea). The picturesque landscape and a variety of energizing outdoor activities are the main attractions of this quaint town, from scenic waters that inspire kayaking, boating, and fishing to rugged cliffs for hiking, pretty trails suited to biking, and the strip of white sand at Refviksanden Strand, delightful for swimming.

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 2 – the main public square, on the waterfront in the center of town, is just behind the local ferry pier

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 3 — the Måløybrua Bridge links the city center on the island of Vågsøy with the section of the city on the mainland (on the left side of the photograph

During World War II, the German occupation forces built several fortifications in Måløy. The Måløy raid (Operation Archery) was aimed at targets in Måløy and Vågsøy, which led to major destructions. Today, Måløy has a strong business community and is perhaps best known for its maritime and marine activities. The area has long, proud traditions in fishing, farming and shipyards.

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 4 – the Måløybrua Bridge viewed from further down the Ulvesundet, with the island section of Måløy on the right side of the photograph

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 5 — your blogger rode around the island of Vågsøy on a bicycle and stopped for this photograph of the Ulvesundet near the small town of Rauderberg on the northern end the island (Måløy is on the southeast end of the island)

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 6 – a view of the Ulvesundet between Rauderberg and Måløy

Street Art – An urban encounter with an ocean view. “When Tone Andal returned to her hometown Måløy in 2010, she quickly became aware of Måløy’s potential as a street art town, with all its grey and worn-out walls.

“Due to the Måløy raid during World War II, large parts of Måløy were bombed and burned down, and the town lost most of its older wooden houses, characteristic boathouses. Since then, large industrial buildings and concrete blocks were built in the 1950s, which to this day characterizes this town. A perfect starting point to turn grey stone into gold.

“Andal had lived in Oslo for several years, in an artist district where the walls were diligently painted by various graffiti artists. She now lives and works in Måløy with the “street art” project in addition to working with her own art.

“Today you will find as many as 20 murals in the Måløy region, most of which can be seen within walking distance in the town center.” — www.exploremaloy.com/en/street-art

Below are several photographs of some of the murals your blogger discovered in his bicycle ride around Måløy. All desctriptions of the murals are from the Måløy website, www.exploremaloy.com/en/street-art

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 7 – street art mural: “Sturgeon” by Mikael Noguchi

Illustrator Mikael Noguchi (Japan / Sweden / Norway) came to Måløy in June 2018 and performed three jobs here. One shows four fishermen posing proudly in front of a mackerel sturgeon. This is the largest tuna species, and among the fastest of all bonefish with a speed of up to 66 kilometers / hr. The painting is inspired by old black and white photographs of fishermen in Måløy in the 1950s. The mackerel sturgeon is highly endangered, and in collaboration with the Institute of Marine Research, Nordfjord Havfiskeklubb is working to enter into a “branding project” of the fish so that it once again becomes sustainable. The painting can be found on Lekteren in Måløy, close to where the express boat from Bergen docks.

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 8 – street art mural: “Large Cod” by TelmoMiel

TelmoMiel also painted this one when they were here in August 2018. If you look closer, you can see many symbols associated with Måløy’s local history.

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 9 – street art mural: “Dove 1-2-3” by Kim Larsen (Sinnsykshit)

Oslo resident Kim Larsen, also known as Sinnsykshit, came to Måløy in August 2019 to create a series of three paintings. These were the first not to be inspired by local culture and history. Here Larsen got free rein to make something he himself thought was cool. You can see the result outside Kiwi by the square in the centre of Måløy

Måløy, Norway, photograph # 10 – street art mural: “The Goldfisherman” by Stepan Bares and Gaute Haugland

Stepan Bares comes from Siberia but lives in Bergen where he works as a graffiti artist and specializes in the decoration of “Russ busses” (busses usually bought or rented for groups of graduation high school students) and the like. Artist Gaute Haugland also lives in Bergen. In September 2017, Stepan and Gaute painted Måløy’s first mural. This shows a weather-beaten fisherman scouting across the stormy sea. Around him, the seagulls flutter, and around his neck, a thick golden chain. This is meant to show that fishing is still lucrative, but also that there has probably been a lot of “mafia activity” in this industry in Måløy through the ages. The painting was a great success among the locals and showed that this was something we wanted more of. The painting can be found in street 1 no. 26 by the shop Bekka, close to Måløy guest harbour.

The Drive from Ålesund to Trollstigen, Norway

Posted on August 7, 2023 by richardcedwards

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 1 – four tolls greeted us at Trollstigen, known as “The Troll’s Pass” or “The Troll Ladder”, where we marveled at the magnificent mountain scenery of their native land amidst the Norwegian fjords (inland from Ålesund)

From Ålesund, Norway, a group of us went by a mini-bus inland for about 2 hours to get to the most iconic roadway in Norway: Trollstigen, known as “The Troll’s Pass” or “The Troll Ladder” in English. [This was our third time to visit it, and every time it is an eye-opener to the wonders of Mother Nature and the scenic beauty of the Norwegian fjords region.] The panoramic drive went by the sharp peaks and deep fjords of the Sunnmørs Alps. We stopped at many natural wonders along the way, and then had about an hour at the top of pass, on the Trollstigen plateau, with wonderful views of the landscape. Our bus had parked at the visitor center with a café and souvenir shop, overlooking beautiful reflection pools, as well as bridges and paths to viewing platforms where we spent time walking and taking photographs.

At the scheduled time to begin our drive down the Trollstigen roadway (just after lunch), our very capable driver (with 25 years’ experience on the area’s roads) informed us that there had been a very rare summer rockfall on the road (the first he had ever experienced in summer!), knocking over two motorcyclists/motorcycles. Long story short, the delay stretched on (for another 3 hours after our departure, we found out later) and, at 2 p.m. our driver decided we should we turn around and drive back to Ålesund the way we came, avoiding the delay (and missing the drive down the 11 hairpin turns of “The Troll’s Pass”). So, our photographs of Trollstigen are all from the top of the pass, and not on Trollstigen itself and then the valley below. Fortunately, we were among the few on the trip who had visited the area previously and completed the drive – so we have good memories, but no photographs nor descriptions here of the descent…

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 2 – the first fjord we passed on the road out of Ålesund at Liabygda had a salmon farm in the waters on the northern shore of the Norddalsfjorden, just north of the mouth of the Sunnyvlsfjorden

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 3 – the river below the Valldøla Foss (Valldøla Waterfall)

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 4 – waters flowing in the river below the Valldøla Foss (Valldøla Waterfall)

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 5 — Gudbrandsjuvet

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 6 — on the southern slope of peak Randsetfjellet, below the hill are old, abandoned buildings built in the traditional Norwegian architectural style, with sod roofs

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 7 — on the southern slope of peak Randsetfjellet, below the hill are old, abandoned buildings built in the traditional Norwegian architectural style, with sod roofs

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 8 – as we approached the Trollstigen plateau and mountain pass (with “The Troll’s Ladder” roadway down the mountain), the low clouds began to obscure some of the peaks above the beautiful mountain lakes

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 9 – the valley below the Trollstigen mountain pass, photographed from one of the viewing platforms expertly constructed at the Trollstigen mountain top visitors’ center

“Trollstigen is an impressive mountain pass that twists through eleven hairpin bends up the steep mountain sides in Romsdalen valley. The Trollstigen road connects Åndalsnes with the village of Valldal in Sunnmøre. The jaunt up the Trollstigen road reveals a masterpiece in engineering, but the spellbinding nature is even more impressive. Trollstigen is surrounded by colossal mountains such as Bispen (The Bishop) (1,462 meters/xx feet), Kongen (The King) (1,614 meters/xx feet), and Dronninga (The Queen) (1,544 meters/xx feet) to the west, and Stigbottshornet (1,583 meters/xx feet) and Storgrovfjellet (1,629 meters/xx feet) in the east. These mountains make you feel tiny and you get a tingling sensation looking down at the valley floor. Historically speaking, Trollstigen is an old mountain pass between Åndalsnes, at the bottom of Romsdalen, and Valldal in inner Sunnmøre. An important reason for building a road across the Stegafjellet mountain was a large annual market at the farm Devoll, but it was only when the road opened in 1936 that Trollstigen became a popular tourist attraction.” — www.fjordnorway.com/en/attractions/trollstigen

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 10 – a panorama (from nine separate photographs, “stitched” together) of the Trollstigen mountain pass and “The Troll’s Ladder” roadway

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 11 – a close-up of the famous Trollstigen (“The Troll’s Ladder”) roadway, with some of its 11 hairpin turns; note that from the observation terrace the fierce waters of waterfall Stigfossen and road bridge are visible

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 12 – Stigfossen Foss (Stigfossen Waterfall

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 13 – another waterfall visible from one of the viewing platforms at the Trollstigen visitors’ center at the mountain pass

Ålesund/Trollstigen, Norway, photograph # 14 – the Trollstigen visitors’ center with an architecture made of steel and glass, designed to blend with its surroundings, with beautiful reflection pools

“…on the Trollstigen plateau, with wonderful views of the landscape, [there is] a visitor center with a café, souvenir shop with local handicrafts, toilets, parking, beautiful reflection pools, as well as bridges and paths to viewing platforms. Everything is designed by the architectural firm Reiulf Ramstad Arkitekter. The architecture is made of steel and glass and provides good shelter from the elements. The structure has been designed to blend with its surroundings, with parts carved into the rock and other parts supported by stone walls.” — www.fjordnorway.com/en/attractions/trollstigen

Ålesund, Norway (2023)

Posted on August 6, 2023 by richardcedwards

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 1 – the bird’s eye view of the port town of Ålesund and the many buildings constructed in the art nouveau architectural style (in which the town was rebuilt after a fire in 1904) from the Mount Aksla lookout

Ålesund is a port town on the west coast of Norway, at the entrance to the Geirangerfjord. It’s known for the art nouveau architectural style in which most of the town was rebuilt after a fire in 1904, as documented at the Jugendstilsenteret museum. There are panoramic views of Ålesund’s architecture, the surrounding archipelago and fjords from the Mount Aksla lookout.

We enjoyed a return visit to Ålesund, following our time in Bergen, having first visited in 2018 [see our previous blog posts by searching for “Alesund” at richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com].

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 2 – a close-up of the buildings in the central district of Ålesund, around the Ålesundet inner harbor, taken from the Mount Aksla lookout

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 3 – shifting our perspective, here are the buildings in the central district of Ålesund, around the Ålesundet inner harbor, taken from the Hellebroa Bridge at the end of Ålesundet

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 4 – a longer distance view of the buildings in the central district of Ålesund, around the Ålesundet inner harbor, taken from the Hellebroa Bridge at the end of Ålesundet

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 5 – a beautifully maintained example of one of the many art nouveau architectural style buildings in the center of the town

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 6 — a beautifully maintained example of one of the many art nouveau architectural style buildings in the center of the town

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 7 — a beautifully maintained example of one of the many art nouveau architectural style buildings in the center of the town

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 8 — the government operated (“FLAM”) ferry from downtown Ålesund to Langevåg, on the neighboring island of Sula, where we walked to the Devold Outlet Mall for some “retail therapy”

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 9 – the Langevåg Marina adjacent to the Devold Outlet Mall on the island of Sula

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 10 — the Devold Outlet Mall on the island of Sula, where we did some great shopping for clothes and outerwear at the Bergans of Norway outlet store, in preparation for the colder weather of the Faroe Islands, Iceland, Greenland and Baffin Island, Canada, where we are headed over the next six weeks

Ålesund, Norway, photograph # 11 – a typical older small home on the island of Sula, seen on our walk to the ferry harbor from the outlet mall

Troldhaugen (Composer Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway

Posted on August 5, 2023 by richardcedwards

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 1 – a statue of the composer Edvard Grieg (born June 15, 1843, Bergen, Norway, died September 4, 1907, Bergen) in the garden of his summer home, recognized as a founder of the Norwegian nationalist school of music

One day in Bergen, Norway, we and another couple traveled outside Bergen to visit Troldhaugen, the former summer home of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg and his wife Nina Grieg. The Grieg’s lived at Troldhaugen for 22 years, from 1885 until his death in 1907. Troldhaugen today is a living museum consisting of the Edvard Grieg Museum (an exhibition center with a shop and café), a concert hall overlooking the fjord, Grieg’s Swiss-style wooden villa, the hut where he composed music, and his and his wife’s gravesite. The property is surrounded by fragrant, tumbling gardens and is on a small peninsula by the coastal Nordåsvannet Lake, south of Bergen. In the garden “composer’s” hut, at the edge of the fjord lake, Grieg composed many of his best-known works.

To visit the property, we walked through downtown Bergen, past Små Lungeren (Lake Lungeren) to the city’s bus station where we caught the Tram #1 (the Bybane light rail) to the Hop stop, about a 20-minute ride. We then walked about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) from the Hop tram station to Troldhaugen.

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 2 – the view from Grieg’s garden “composer’s” hut (and the summer house, above on the hill) which inspired him to compose many of his best-known works

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 3 – Edvard and Nina Grieg’s summer home, Troldhaugen, on a small peninsula by the coastal Nordåsvannet Lake, south of Bergen, where they summered for 22 years, from 1885 until his death in 1907

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 4 – an architectural detail close-up of Troldhaugen

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 5 – Edvard Grieg’s garden “composer’s” hut, built in 1891 at the edge of the fjord lake, where Grieg composed many of his best-known works (viewed from the edge of the lake), in solitude, away from the many visitors at the house who would have interrupted his composing

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 6 – the interior of Edvard Grieg’s garden “composer’s” hut, exactly as he left it at his death in 1907; when visitors take in the view from the hut (see photograph # 2, above), they understand completely how his beautiful music was created

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 7 – although Troldhaugen was converted to a museum in 1928 to honor Edvard Grieg and to commemorate the great Norwegian musical talent, a concert hall for performance of his music was only constructed in 1985; note how architecturally (with a sod roof) the building blends into the gardens below the Grieg home

Troldhaugen, (Edvard Grieg’s House), Bergen, Norway, photograph # 8 – we bought tickets in advance for the lunchtime concert of Grieg’s piano music in the concert hall (which seats 200 people) – the program is detailed, below

We were very fortunate to learn that there are daily concerts of Grieg’s piano music in the new concert hall at Troldhaugen. We had an outstanding concert by the visiting pianist of the week, Håkon Skogstad, on the day we visited the museum complex. The music played included:

Trolltog (March of the Trolls), Opus 54, No. 3

Nottumo, Opus 54, No. 4

Scherzo-Impromptu, opus 73, No. 2

Vuggesang (Cradle Song), Opus 41, No. 1

Jeg elsker dig (I Love Thee), Opus 41, No. 3

Bryllupsdag på Troldhaugen (Wedding Day at Troldhaugen), Opus 65, No. 6

A short biography of Edvard Grieg, from www.britannica.com

“Edvard Grieg, in full Edvard Hagerup Grieg, (born June 15, 1843, Bergen, Norway, died September 4, 1907, Bergen), composer who was a founder of the Norwegian nationalist school of music… In 1863 he went to Copenhagen, where his development came from his association in 1864 with the young Norwegian nationalist composer Rikard Nordraak. ‘Through him,’ said Grieg, “’ first learned to know the northern folk tunes and my own nature.’ In the winter of 1864–65 Grieg became one of the founders of the Copenhagen concert society, Euterpe, for the production of works by young Scandinavian composers. In 1867 he married his cousin, Nina Hagerup, who became an authoritative interpreter of his songs. He spent the winters of 1865–66 and 1869–70 in Rome, where he first met Ibsen and also Liszt, who was roused to enthusiasm by his piano concerto. In 1866 he settled in Christiania (now Oslo), remaining there until 1874, when he was granted an annual stipend of 1,600 crowns by the Norwegian government. In 1885 he built his home, ‘Troldhaugen,’ near Bergen. In spite of poor health, Grieg made several tours in Scandinavia, on the Continent, and in England, playing his piano concerto in London in 1888.

“Rooted in the national folk tradition of Norway, Grieg’s music is noted for a refined lyrical sense. Between 1867 and 1901 he wrote ten collections of Lyric Pieces (Lyriske Stykker) for piano. His spirited rhythms often have a folk song association. His harmonies, developed from the late Romantic style, were considered novel. In his few works in the larger forms—the Piano Concerto, Opus 16; the String Quartet in G Minor, Opus 27; and the three violin and piano sonatas — he uses a free sonata form. His original Ballad for piano, Opus 24, is a set of variations on a folk theme. Among his most popular works are his incidental music to Peer Gynt, Opus 23 [written to accompany the verse drama of the same name by Norwegian writer Henrik Ibsen], and the suite Holberg, Opus 40. His arrangements of Norwegian dances and songs, Opus 17 and Opus 66, and especially his Slåtter, Norwegian Peasant Dances, Opus 72, show his characteristic sense of rhythm and harmony.”

Bergen, Norway (2023)

Posted on August 5, 2023 by richardcedwards

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 1 – the bird’s eye view of Norway’s second largest city (and a UNESCO World heritage City) from atop Mount Fløyen, accessed by the Fløibanen Funicular from the city center

Bergen, with a history dating back to the Vikings is the 2^nd largest city in Norway (population around 300,000). It is located on Norway’s west coast between Trondheim and Stavanger and is about 300 kilometers (180 miles) – as the bird flies — from Oslo, the nation’s capital, and largest city. The city has a stunning natural setting, nestled between mountains with many kilometers (miles) of coastline. Bergen is known as the gateway to the famous Norwegian fjords, being close to the country’s two largest fjords, Hardangerfjord and Sognefjord. Consequently, the city has become one of Norway’s biggest cruise ports.

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 2 — the inner Bergen harbor — Vågen Harbor — is where the city was founded around 1070 A.D.; the long, brown-tiled warehouses on the right center of the photograph (the eastern side of the harbor) are a series of Hanseatic commercial buildings famously known as Bryggen, and our ship is docked at the pier just beyond the upper right hand corner of the photograph

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 3 – the Sjøfartsmonumentet, the Sailor’s Monument, is in the heart of downtown Bergen at the main square, at the start of Torgallmenningen, and was unveiled in 1950 with twelve male figures, cast in bronze, honoring Norway’s long seafaring tradition from the Vikings to today

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 4 – located at the entrance of Bergen harbor, Bergenhus Fortress is one of Norway’s oldest and best-preserved fortifications; it has a long history as a royal seat, episcopal see and military seat of power; construction began in the early 1500s, the building was reinforced during the 1600s and reached its most complete state around 1700

“Perhaps more than any other Norwegian city, the history of Bergen is a fascinating one full of twists and turns. How did Bergen grow from a tiny little market town to a city of global significance? The story starts at the end of the Viking Age. Olav Kyrre founded the city as Bjørgvin sometime around the year 1070. Prior to this it’s likely a trading settlement existed, but Olav gave it city status. Over the following 150 years, Bergen’s influence as a trading hub grew thanks to its favourable west coast location. During the 13th century, Bergen took over capital city status from Nidaros (now Trondheim). The construction of Bergenshus fortress began during this time, although the city’s role as capital city was a relatively short one.

“Although Oslo became the capital city, Bergen remained Norway’s biggest city throughout the Middle Ages. Bergen had established itself as the principal source of dried cod for Europe. North Germanic traders in particular came to Bergan to buy the cod, which was sourced from Northern Norway. The influence of those traders grew and Bergen went on to become a full member of the Hanseatic League in the middle of the 14th century. For the next few hundred years, Bergen largely prospered… Norway was occupied throughout almost all of the second world war. As Norway’s second biggest city and a strategic location between Germany, the UK and Northern Norway, Bergen gradually became an important stage during the conflict.” — www.lifeinnorway.net/bergen-norway/

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 5 – The UNESCO World Heritage site, Bryggen, with several old, long wooden buildings standing tall in different colors (with passageways between them that are very interesting to explore), was a Hanseatic wharf and today is a glorious remnant from when Bergen was a key center for trade between Norway and Europe

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 6 – while most visitors walk by (and take a quick photo of) the famous colorful warehouses (Bryggen) dating back to the Hanseatic League [see photograph # 7, above], the most fascinating part of the area to explore is the alleyways between the buildings that open out into wooden courtyards and give much greater insight into the Hanseatic Era neighborhood

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 7 –the eastern side of of the Bergen Harbor, Vågen Harbor

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 8 – these German-style architecture commercial buildings along the Bergen Harbor, Vågen Harbor, were constructed in the decade from 1902 to 1912

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 9 – this beautiful brick building, originally a warehouse at the southern end of the Bergen Harbor, Vågen Harbor, now houses a Starbucks (fronting the harbor) and an excellent Norwegian restaurant, 1877, where we returned (first visit in 2018) for another outstanding tasting menu with friends

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 10– white-painted old homes on cobblestone streets on the eastern hill above Bergen Harbor, Vågen Harbor, in the Stølen neighborhood

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 11 – small retail shops selling artisanal goods along with small cafés and restaurants are mixed together on the cobblestone streets in the Stølen neighborhood

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 12 – storefronts in buildings from the early 1900s are along the Bergen Harbor, Vågen Harbor

Bergen, Norway, photograph # 13 — Små Lungeren (Lake Lungeren), also known as Lille Lungegårdsvannet, viewed from the top of Mount Fløyen (we rode up on the Fløibanen Funicular from the city center); the large building at the back of the lake are the four KODE Museums, where there is a Michelin one-star restaurant, Lysverket (in KODE 4)

Ulvik (Seaplane Ride), Norway

Posted on August 4, 2023 by richardcedwards

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 1 — the Intrepid Explorer and your blogger with the pilot (checking the fuel level) with our chartered seaplane at the dock of the Brakanes Hotel

The charming hamlet of Ulvik, located in an offshoot of Norway’s celebrated Hardangerfjord, is a low-key summer resort popular with outdoor enthusiasts. The gently rolling hills, serene and scenic orchards, and mountain plateaus are what attract visitors here. [See our previous blog post, “Ulvik, Norway”, for additional background information and photographs of the area.]. We had the opportunity to charter a seaplane to fly around the Ulvikfjord and inland to see the Hardangerfjord glacier.

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 2 – the Hardangerfjord with the new, and critically important Hardanger Bridge that connects the Ulvik side of Hardangerfjord with the Eidfjord region and the Eidfjord National Park

At 4,528 feet (1,380 meters) long, the Hardanger suspension bridge is one of the world’s longest and offers a path for pedestrians and cyclists. The previous day, we drove both ways across the bridge to access the Eidfjord National Park and the magnificent Vøringsfossen waterfall

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 3

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 4

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 5 – the Hardangerfjord glacier

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 6

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 7 – the area is famous for its many apple farms and apple cider

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 8 – a small boat shack in Ulvik on the Ulvikfjord

Seaplane ride over Hardangerfjord, Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 9 – our ship at anchor in Ulvikfjord, photographed from the seaplane dock at the Brakanes Hotel

Ulvik and the Hardangerfjord Region, Norway

Posted on August 3, 2023 by richardcedwards

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 1 — popular Brakanes Hotel — established in 1860 – is beautifully located by the edge of the Ulvik Fjord (Ulvikfjorden) in the small rural hamlet of Ulvik, Norway, part of the stunning Hardangerfjord region, regarded by many in Norway as one of the most beautiful places in the country

The small rural hamlet of Ulvik, Norway, lies of the shores of the beautiful Hardangerfjord, surrounded by gently rolling foothills and a high mountain plateau, about a 2-hour drive north of Bergen. Many in Norway (and elsewhere) regard it as one of the most beautiful places in the country. The small town (population around 1,000) is located at the end of the Hardangerfjord and is known for its apple production. In the region around Ulvik, visitors can do the apple cider route – the only of its kind in Norway – and stop at all the farms that have small shops and tastings on offer. The region is also a treat for bird watchers, with more than 80 species of rare and common birds having been observed there, especially by the marshlands. The surrounding mountains reach 1,800 meters (5,900 feet) above sea level.

Geographically, Ulvik is situated around the Hardangerfjord’s northeastern arms: the Osa Fjord and Ulvikfjorden (Ulvik Fjord), extending far into the Hardangervidda plateau. The northernmost part of the Hardangerjøkulen glacier is in Ulvik.

We anchored in the Ulvikfjorden and used tender boats to come ashore, using the dock at the popular Brakanes Hotel — established in 1860 — beautifully located by the edge of the water. The hotel was very popular with a waterside terrace serving both drinks and meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) outdoors with stuning views of the Ulvikfjorden.

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 2 — we anchored in the Ulvikfjorden and used tender boats to come ashore, using the dock at the popular Brakanes Hotel

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 3 – another view of the Ulvikfjorden

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 4 – a rare sighting of sunshine on the shore of the Ulvikfjorden in the two days we spent in the Hardangerfjord region

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 5 – we arrived at the man-made dam creating Lake Sysenvatnet in the mountains of the Eidfjord region, just ahead of the heavy rains that fell the rest of the afternoon on our drive to, and while visiting, the magnificent Vøringsfossen waterfall

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 6 – the man-made Lake Sysenvatnet in the mountains of the Eidfjord region

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 7 – a panorama of the mountain region surrounding the magnificent Vøringsfossen waterfall in the Eidfjord National Park (on the east side of Hardangerfjord)

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 8 — Vøringsfossen waterfall was said to be a favorite of composer Edvard Grieg and is often featured in Norwegian travel photo spreads; the famous falls plunge nearly 600 feet (182 meters) from the Hardangervidda plateau into the Måbødalen Valley

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 9 – a close up of Vøringsfossen waterfall, the most famous in Norway

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 10 — Vøringsfossen and a sister waterfall flow into the Måbødalen Valley from the Hardangervidda plateau

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 11 – a close up of the two falls; we were very fortunate in the timing of our visit (notwithstanding the heavy rain) because the new walkways (with guardrails) around the top of the waterfalls, and viewpoints, had been completed earlier this year

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 12 – another perspective of Vøringsfossen waterfall

Ulvik, Norway, photograph # 13 – while smaller, the sister waterfall is beautiful on its own

Grimstad, Norway

Posted on August 3, 2023 by richardcedwards

Grimstad, south of Arendal (where the ship was docked – see our previous blog post “Arendal, Norway”), is a waterfront town typical of the southern Norway coastline on the Skagerrak, with white houses, boats galore and an interesting maritime history that includes considerable wooden shipbuilding.

When Henrik Ibsen (1828–1906), who grew up in Skien, Norway, was 15 he moved to Grimstad to become an apprentice pharmacist, but by the time he moved from the city, several years later, he had written his first play, “Catilina”, while working in the town, along with many poems dedicated to the local girls. The town has an Ibsen Museum, Norway’s oldest of its kind. The museum comprises the pharmacy where the famous playwright worked, as well as the room where he wrote his first play. Subsequent to this visit, as we were departing Bergen, Norway, on the ship, the Intrepid Explorer and your blogger were part of a cast from our onboard book club who performed a reading of selected scenes from Ibsen’s 1879 “A Doll’s House” and Lucas Hnath’s 2017 “A Doll’s House, Part 2” (as nurse Anne-Marie and as Nora’s husband, Torvald Helmer) in the ship’s theatre.

Grimstad is also famous as the home of the brewery, Nøgne Ø, whose name means “naked isle” in Norwegian, and comes, naturally, from Ibsen. Their beers are served all over Norway and are easy to find locally at bars and restaurants of Grimstad and Arendal – we enjoyed a Nøgne Ø beer in Arendal.

Grimstad, Norway, photograph # 2 – on a visit to the historic Hasseldalen shipyard we met with Atle Bergshaven, whose family’s maritime heritage dates to 1772; he is the Chairman of the Board of the shipping company Bergshav

The purpose of our small group’s visit to Grimstad was quite specific – to meet Atle Bergshaven, whose family’s maritime heritage dates to 1772. Today marks the 7^th generation of the family owing and managing the shipping company Bergshav. As Chairman of the Board of Bergshav, Mr. Bergshaven was instrumental in constructing the vision for the world’s first private residential yacht. In our discussion, we had the opportunity to learn more about the planning and building of our ship (christened in 2002). At one point Mr. Bergshaven was also the president of board of directors of the company building and operating the ship, giving him a unique perspective on the history of our homes at sea. We learned about the planning and development of the international team that guided the investment in and construction of the ship.

Grimstad, Norway, photograph # 3 – “Navnebua”, a protected building with the nameplates, on the outside wall, of all the ships constructed in the shipyard from 1849 to 1890; inside is a collection of over a thousand artefacts

Following our discussion, we had time for a guided tour of the historic Hasseldalen shipyard. Dating back to 1842, the shipyard has buildings and slipways that have been noted by the Norwegian government for their maritime importance. The Bergshaven’s family’s private collection of maritime artifacts is housed in “Navnebua“, a protected building with the names, on the outside wall, of all the larger ships constructed in the shipyard over the years. Inside is a collection of over a thousand artefacts from the Norwegian, and particularly the local, shipbuilding and shipping industry.

Grimstad, Norway, photograph # 4 – a small portion of Mr. Bergshaven’s private maritime collection of more than 1,100 maritime artifacts reflecting Norwegian shipping and local shipbuilding from 1850 to 1950

On the back wall are a large number of blocks used for the rigging of tall sailing ships. On the next wall (on the right side of the photograph, above) the display shows an extensive collection of equipment used for loading and unloading.