Maui, Hawaii, United States of America

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 1 – the Intrepid Explorer by the Maverick Helicopter that Chief Pilot Jake flew four of us in for our several hours, three-island tour; here, we stopped in the Hana Rainforest (just beyond Jurassic Rock – see photograph 5) for Champagne and snacks before resuming our tour

Our previous ship’s call on Maui, Hawaii, United States of America, was in January 2022 (during the COVID-19 pandemic) when we anchored off Lahaina on the southern shore of Maui and used tender boats to reach a pier in town.  It was a wonderful visit, made more vivid a little more than a year later when hurricane strength winds blew down a number of live electric power lines into 6 foot [2 meters] high dry grass and started a fire that blew down the hill to the old historic whaling town of Lahaina, completely destroying the homes in the fire’s path and burning down all the historic wooden buildings in town that housed retail shops, cafés, and restaurants.   As you will see in a photograph in our next blog post, the area is now sadly just dirt.  Locals estimate that it could take up to 15 years to rebuild the area, as the first order of business is to remove the topsoil in the whole area that is now contaminated with all kinds of dangerous substances as a result of everything burning to the ground.

The good news (not very well communicated by the Maui Chamber of Commerce over the past 18 months) is that the rest of the island is fine and more than ready to greet tourists with warm hospitality.  Having visited Maui as a couple and with our two sons probably more that 20 times over the past 52 years, we decided that the best way to see something “new” was to take a multi-hour helicopter ride over the island.  On the helicopter ride we also visited neighboring Molokai and Lanai Islands, both with very small resident populations (several thousand people, each), compared with around 180,000 on Maui.

Maui is the second most populated Hawaiian Island (after Oahu, with over 1 million residents), located east of Oahu and west of the “Big Island” (Hawai’i).  Maui is affectionately known as the “Valley Isle” due to the great valley that lies between its two major volcanoes, Haleakala and Mauna Kahalawai.  It is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands.  Maui is well known for its stunning beaches, the sacred Ĩao Valley, the crater of the extinct volcano Haleakala, the Road to Hana, as well as great golfing, swimming, SCUBA diving and snorkeling, dining (at cafes, restaurants and luaus) and local entertainment.  In the winter, there is whale-watching for humpback whales from Alaska swimming by the islands as they head north back to Alaska for the summer.  There are also opportunities to support the local community (in the Lahaina region) through volunteer work and financial support.

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 2 – the Maverick Helicopter heliport is adjacent to the Kahului International Airport, shown here just after “takeoff” in our helicopter

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 3 – a suburb of Kahului on the northern shore of Maui, to the east of the city

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 4 – the Road to Hana (“Hana Highway”) is a two-lane and one-lane paved road, along the north and east coasts of Maui, to the scenic small town of Hana on the east coast of Maui; the drive is tortuous, with 629 hair-pin curves and 54 one-lane bridges (out of the total of 59 bridges) on the 51 mile drive from Kahului (allow several hours!)

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 5 — Jurassic Rock – actually, Keōpuka Rock – was featured in the opening sequence of the original Jurassic Park movie, as the helicopter flew in from the Pacific Ocean on the north shore of Maui to the Garden of Eden (Arboretum), a real, lush botanical garden set on 26 acres, off the Road to Hana, just south (inland) of Jurassic Rock

“The Road to Hana:  There’s a sense of suspense you just can’t shake while driving the Road to Hana, a serpentine road lined with tumbling waterfalls, lush slopes, and rugged coasts – and serious hairpin turns.  Spanning the northeast shore of Maui, the legendary Hana Hwy ribbons tightly between jungle valleys and towering cliffs.  Along the way, 54 one-lane bridges mark nearly as many waterfalls, some tranquil and inviting, others so sheer they kiss you with spray as you drive past.  The drive is ravishingly gorgeous, but certainly not easy.” – www.lonelyplanet.com

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 6 – a waterfall in the Hana Rainforest

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 7 – three waterfalls in the Hana Rainforest

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 8 — our midday Champagne and snack lunch break was in the Hana Rainforest; these taro fields (our landing “pad”) were planted and harvested for centuries by the native Hawaiians before Europeans came to Hawaii (discovered by Captain James Cook in 1778)

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 9 – a large, stunning monkeypod tree on the edge of the ancient taro fields in the Hana Rainforest where we landed for lunch

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 10 – foliage at another edge of the ancient taro fields in the Hana Rainforest where we landed for lunch

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 11 – the flower of a red ginger plant (note that this is not the edible ginger plant that we use in cooking and candies) at the landing spot in the Hana Rainforest

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 12 – after lunch we flew through the Hana Rainforest where we saw innumerable waterfalls flowing with water that had come down the sides of the Haleakalā extinct volcanic mountain

Haleakalā, or the East Maui Volcano, is a massive, active shield volcano that forms more than 75% of the Hawaiian Island of Maui.  The western 25% of the island is formed by another volcano, Mauna Kahalawai, also referred to as the West Maui Mountains.  The tallest peak of Haleakalā, at 10,023 feet [3,055 meters], is Puʻu ʻUlaʻula.

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 13 – a view of “Jurassic Rock” and the shoreline of north Maui as we flew back toward Kahului on the way to west Maui and then on to the islands of Molokai and Lanai

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 14 – the red soil in the open fields is from the volcanic iron residue in the soil, shown here as we flew west towards Maui’s western extinct volcano’s mountain, Mauna Kahalawai, with the summit, Pu’u Kukui, at 5,788-feet [1,764 meters], towering over a lush nature preserve

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 15 – the northwest corner of the island of Maui, with Molokai Island in the distance

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 16 – lush, forested slopes in the west Maui ridges under Mauna Kahalawai

PHOTO Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 17 – a stream flows through one of many lush green valleys under Mauna Kahalawai

PHOTO Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 18 – this was the largest collection of waterfalls that we saw in one valley on Maui – under Mauna Kahalawai; note that the lava rock is so porous here, that many of the waterfalls are natural “springs” opening on the mountainside, rather than water runoff from uphill

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 18 – this was the largest collection of waterfalls that we saw in one valley on Maui – under Mauna Kahalawai; note that the lava rock is so porous here, that many of the waterfalls are natural “springs” opening on the mountainside, rather than water runoff from uphill

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 19 – approaching the southern shore of Maui on the western side of the island (where Kaanapali and Kapalua developments are located), with the island of Molokai in the background

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 20 – flying over Kaanapali, Maui

Maui, Hawaii, U.S.A, photograph # 21 – developments on the southern shore of Maui, west of Kaanapali

Our next blog post will continue our helicopter tour of three Hawaiian islands with photographs and descriptions of Molokai and Lanai Islands

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Rurutu (tour part III), Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Casuarina is an evergreen tree, native to Australia, the Indian subcontinent, southeast Asia, islands of the western Pacific Ocean, and eastern Africa, growing to a height of 35 meters [115 feet], Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

During our visit to Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesis, we went for a guided drive around the island.  “The lush landscape reflects the island’s fertile soil and the frequent rain; ‘it’s the Britain of Tahiti,’ [a local inn proprietor] jokes.  In the verdant valleys, torch ginger, papaya, bananas and even tobacco – introduced by the missionaries – run wild.  The most common crop, however, is taro, a rather bland foodstuff that, for some inexplicable reason, is adored by locals.  Back in the day, wars were started by one village raiding another village’s taro crop. Even today, each family’s taro plot is immaculately tended.” — www.traveller.com.au

A refreshment stop on our island driving tour, by a beach, with fresh coconut water (in the husk) and lots of fresh local fruit, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local musicians played Tahitian melodies by the beach during our refreshment stop, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local tatoo, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A coconut palm grove on Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A sweeping view across the Bay of Avera (and the village of Avera), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The village of Avera’s taro fields are probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; they were being cultivated when Captain Cook passed by Rurutu in 1769

“Taro is an important part of the lives of people here in Rurutu; you could argue that it’s the foundation of our culture.  Farming it definitely remains a living tradition.  Viriamu’s brother Meta supplies frozen taro to a supermarket in Tahiti, it earns him a modest living.  I have blogged a fair bit about taro, but the subject is definitely going to be a recurring one!   We probably have the largest single expanse of taro field in French Polynesia, in our village Avera [population 919].  It was being cultivated when Captain Cook quickly passed by Rurutu in 1769, and likely for a long time before that.  Last year, we were lucky enough to be featured in the Hana Hou, Hawaiian Airlines inflight magazine.” — http://lifeinrurutu.blogspot.com  [A blog by a Welsh woman, married to a native Rurutu man, who runs a guest house on the island of Rurutu.]

One family’s taro plot near the village of Avera, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Each taro plant can have many stalks and leaves, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; both the root and leaves, when cooked, are edible

Turning over the soil to keep it very moist in a field that was being replanted, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

We visited the village of Avera’s large taro field and watched a couple of men harvest some mature taro plants (for the roots) and then replant the stems still attached to the top of the root (tuber or corm) in holes dug into very moist soil.  As the plants were harvested (whole), by loosening the soil and then pulling the entire plant out of the ground, they were chopped into thirds – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (to be replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked).  One man followed the harvesting and used a spade to dig up and turn over the soil adjacent to a small stream, to keep the field very moist.

The whole taro plant, removed intact from the ground, is cut into 3 parts – the root (for cooking), the stems kept together by a piece of the root (replanted), and the leaves (may be cooked), Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Taro root can be boiled, steamed, baked, or fried — similar to cooking a potato.  However, taro can be toxic to humans if it’s eaten raw, so, it must be cooked thoroughly.  Note that although the root, leaves, and stems (all parts of a taro plant are edible), they must be cooked thoroughly; otherwise, chemicals in the plant will cause itching in the mouth and throat.

Harvested taro roots, trimmed off the stems, ready to go into the home for cooking, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; a typical family of 4 or 5 will consume 2-3 taro roots daily

Coconuts, pandamus leaves and bicycle, Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

What stories can this old door tell us?; Rurutu, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

In the southern Austral Islands of French Polynesia, Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt with white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling

Known as the “Bora Bora of the Austral Islands” – one of the five island groups of French Polynesia — Raivavae’s geography is similar with its white sand beaches, an emerald lagoon, and motus around the barrier reef that are perfect for swimming and snorkeling.  Raivavae is a high island of eroded volcanic basalt.  The surrounding reef with its numerous uninhabited motus (islands) creates a beautiful shallow lagoon with hues of iridescent blues.  Its highest point, Mt. Hiro, tops out at 438 meters (1,437 feet).  The people maintain an almost subsistence lifestyle farming taro and bananas, and by fishing the outer reef in handmade outrigger canoes much like they have for generations.  The population of the island is about 1,000 people, concentrated in 4 coastal villages.  Our sightseeing by local trucks and guides included stops at taro fields, the tiki of the Princess (the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis), marae sacred temples and Motu Hotuatua.

“As in other southern islands, the cooler climate than in the rest of Polynesia is conducive to market gardening of traditional taro tubers (Colocasia esculenta), coffee trees, mango trees, lychees and banana trees. As a result, many families are self-sufficient. Craftsmanship remains very much alive on the island with the making of traditional shell necklaces, the braiding of hats, and the making of tifaifai [large pieces of fabric with floral and colorful patterns, an emblem of Polynesian craftsmanship].  Moreover, Raivavae remains the only island in French Polynesia where the construction of sewn canoes continues.” — Wikipedia

Several local men formed part of a friendly welcoming committee when we arrived ashore (a wet Zodiac landing), offering each of us a coconut with a small hole in it and a straw for the refreshing coconut water, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A local Christian church on Raivavae (Island) near our landing site, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local Tahitian drummers playing music for the dancers (see next photos), Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Local women performing traditional Tahitian dances for us, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A close-up of one of the Tahitian dancers, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

The convoy of local trucks that provided us transportation around the island for our tour, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A taro field, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; taro is one of the staples of the local diet, similarly throughout French Polynesia and, historically, in the Hawaiian Islands

The smiling tiki is the only remaining tiki on the island, out of 4 original tikis, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A Tiki is a sculpture endowed with an important spiritual and symbolic force, originating from the Marquesas Islands and usually representing a modified man.  The Tiki is a real emblem of French Polynesia and holds a significant position in the local culture.

“The only remaining tiki (carved humanlike statue) on the island stands in a private garden just to the west of the village of Mahanatoa.  About 1 meter [3.3 feet] in height, it has highly stylised hands and chest as well as clearly outlined eyes. Its curved lips suggest a smile. It’s not signed.” — www.lonelyplanet.com  Two tikis that originated on the island of Raivavae are now in the Paul Gauguin Museum (Musée Gauguin) in Paperai, Tahiti.  The fourth tiki sank into the ocean as it was being transported from Raivavae to Tahiti for the Museum.  The local story is that almost all of the crew members involved in the transport of the tiki died later on, leading to local superstitions. 

Bananas and plantains are very good tasting on Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Marae Pua Pua Tiare features large upright stones that enclose a stone paved area, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; marae are ancient open air sacred temples

Motu Hotuatua, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia; legend has it that the motu (island) is the rock laid into the lagoon by a local woman who won a contest of strength with a local man [See story, below.]

“East of the island of Raivavae, emerges from the lagoon the motu Hotuatua, 60 meters [197 feet] high.  According to legend, the women of the village of Vaiuru claimed to be stronger than the men of Anatonu. To find out for sure, the inhabitants decided that a woman from Vaiuru and a man from Anatonu would face off by carrying a huge rock from the top of the mountain and depositing it as far as possible in the lagoon.  The start would take place in the middle of the night and the race would end before the cockcrow.  Shortly after the start of the event, the man, who was very strong, reached the beach with his rock.  Tired, he lay down and fell asleep.  The woman, slowly, ends up laying down her rock, named Hotuatua, in the lagoon.  Then she looked for her competitor and found him dozing on the beach.  So she hid and imitated the crowing of the rooster.  The man woke up suddenly, ran to take his rock, but for fear of being caught by the day, let it fall on the beach.  The woman had won.” – www.tahitileblog-fr

Local fruits served to us for late morning refreshment, including taro (purple, lower left), bananas, mango, watermelon, sugar cane, various cooked potatoes, and coconut meat, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

A native flower, Raivavae, Austral Islands, French Polynesia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2022 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.