Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 7, 2023 by richardcedwards

Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history. One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon. A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature. The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.

Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000. K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq. “Halifax is a navy creation. It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard. At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – located on the Atlantic Ocean, the port of Halifax is North America’s first inbound and last outbound gateway to Europe

“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax. For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade. Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada.

“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic. He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.

“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria. He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – a statue of an immigrant family in the Halifax waterfront near the cruise terminals and the Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) is a reminder of much of the city’s roots as a Canadian center for immigration, especially for people leaving Europe and central Europe

Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 — located near downtown is the vibrant Halifax waterfront, surrounded by scenic views; buzzing with energy, the 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Halifax Harbourwalk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844)

The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax. The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749. The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Historic Properties are a collection of historic buildings on Halifax’s downtown and boardwalk

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – we passed by many interesting stores and restaurants in the historic section of Halifax’s downtown – here is “The Black Market Boutique” with psychedelic paintings and signage

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 — Halifax is an eclectic mix of old and new that is a delight for both locals and tourists

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the Halifax Public Library, with its stunning modern exterior design, is one of the standout public buildings in Halifax

More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture. Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books. Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – one of the five corners of the “star”-shaped Halifax Citadel that forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site . The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856. Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — sitting in the shadow of The Citadel is the Town Clock, a three-story octagon tower atop a one-story white building; the clock overlooks most of downtown Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – the north end of the Halifax waterfront and interior neighborhoods were developed more recently and have a variety of contemporary architecture buildings

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 — the entrance to the Halifax Public Gardens, opened in 1867, that emanates a delightful Victorian character

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 14 – the gazebo and one of many statues in the Halifax Public Gardens

Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character. Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand. The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 15 – the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian era public garden that was designated as a Canadian National Historic site in 1984

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 16 – another interesting mix of the old and the new, downtown

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 17 – three stunning, well preserved historic buildings with vibrant retail stores today (pun intended, as “Venus Envy” is a sex shop)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 18 – these former warehouses on the waterfront were developed by Historic Properties into warehouses containing restaurants, retail shops and entertainment facilities

“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city. The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies. This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”

On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea. We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 19 – no visit to the Halifax waterfront is complete without a take-away order of some form of the national food, poutine; it is regarded as one of the most quintessential Canadian dishes

“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy. It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia

Eat Local: Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway

Posted on July 31, 2023 by richardcedwards

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 1 — at the recommendation of the Intrepid Explorer’s brother, our family group dined at the seafood specialty restaurant across from the Astrup Fearnley Museet (Astrup Fearnley Museum)

Our only dinner in Oslo was at the Michelin Guide’s recommended seafood restaurant, Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, located by the Aker Brygge Marina waterfront on the Oslo fjord, directly before the pedestrian bridge leading to the Astrup Fearnley Museet (Astrup Fearnley Museum). Recommended by the Intrepid Explorer’s brother (and accompanied by him, his twin Millennial daughters and a niece), the restaurant’s name means “sea store” and their menus are fittingly seafood based. Their shellfish is from the nearby dock. The restaurant prepares what is reported to be the best seafood in Oslo and their location is wonderful, with views out over the Sound. Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet is owned by successful Norwegian restauranteur Bjørn Tore Furset. In addition to the restaurant, they also have a market that sells the very best quality mussels, oysters, and shellfish. We enjoyed an outstanding 5-course tasting menu that was served leisurely, with wine pairings, over three hours. We highly recommend the restaurant.

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 2 — the restaurant is across a small channel and connected by a pedestrian bridge to the very modern, private contemporary art museum, Astrup Fearnley Museet (Astrup Fearnley Museum), resides in an arresting, silvered-wood building designed by Renzo Piano, with a sail-like glass roof that feels both maritime and at one with the Oslofjord landscape

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 3 – our first course was Rossini Caviar – on top of the local baby Lyngren shrimps (Norwegian: reker) atop a lettuce gazpacho and lightly toasted crackers of homemade bread

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 4 – scallops from Hitra with sea asparagus, tarragon oil and sea buckhorn-mango dressing

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 5 – Jasper grilled asparagus with 18-month aged ham, wild garlic puree, quail egg and Hollandaise sauce

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 6 – pan-fried catch of the day fish, organic oyster mushrooms, oak leaves and Yuzu Beurre Blanc sauce

Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 7 – our final course (dessert) was a chocolate and passion fruit mousse on chocolate sponge and passion fruit granache

Eat local: Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostock, (Port of Warnemünde), Germany

Posted on July 20, 2023 by richardcedwards

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 1 – the waterfront entrance to the #1 rated seafood restaurant in Rostock, Borwin Hafenrestaurant, where we enjoyed an excellent luncheon

After eating typical German fare in Warnemünde at a casual restaurant along the scenic Alter Strom canal the night before (potato pancakes, pork goulash and veal wiener schnitzel), we checked with our local guide and selected the top-rated seafood restaurant in Rostock for lunch the next day with some friends. We were not disappointed at all – in fact, our luncheon at Borwin Hafenrestaurant in Rostock, along the riverfront, was one of the best meals we’ve had in the past three weeks on this journey across northern Europe.

The restaurant is known for its large selection of fresh fish and seafood. The day we ate there, we had a choice of 9 types of fresh fish, some prepared as filets, and others as grilled whole fish (for one or more diners). We also enjoyed some German white wines by the carafe.

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 2 – the marina on the Unterwarnow River in front of the restaurant with some apartment buildings in the distance

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 3 – an appetizer of salmon two ways, sashimi with garnish and tartare

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 4 – The “piece de la resistance” was the giant seafood platter (shared by 2 people) with grilled calamari, grilled octopus, sauteed scallops, prawns in their shell, cold shrimps, and a half lobster

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 5 – beautifully prepared filet of perch on a bed of lightly creamed spinach and mashed potatoes, accompanied by a roasted tomato

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 6 – a desert of fresh local strawberries with whipped cream (schlagsahne) and vanilla ice cream

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 7 – a wall mural for the restaurant at the back of their parking lot, with local waterfront-facing homes visible, above

Salalah, Oman

Posted on February 21, 2023 by richardcedwards

The national symbol of Oman, the khanjar (a traditional Omani dagger), along with two swords, all three in sheaths, form the national emblem of Oman, pictured here as a symbol of the Sultan at the Sultan’s Palace in Salalah, Oman, the Qsar Al-Hosn Palace Salalah

From the Maldives we sailed north for four days to reach the Arabian Peninsula where we docked in the commercial port of Salalah, Oman (there is no cruise ship terminal in the city), west of the main districts of Salalah. Salalah is the capital city of southern Oman’s Dhofar province, known for its banana plantations, Arabian Sea beaches and waters teeming with sea life. Nearby are the UNESCO World Heritage sites of “Land of Frankincense”, including the frankincense trees of Wadi Dawkah and the archaeological sites at Al Balid and Samharam/Khawr Rawri.

Salalah “is located in the Dhofar Governorate in southern Oman. It is the second largest city in Oman, but the biggest in Dhofar, and the biggest seaport in the Arab Peninsula. From the north, the city is surrounded by a mountain range that turns green with spectacular waterfalls during the Khareef [the southeastern monsoon] season [between June and September]. From the south, it has a long, beautiful coast that is embellished with white sands.” – www.theculturetrip.com

Note about the Khanjar: “A khanjar (Arabic: خنجر, Kurdish: Xencer, Bengali: খঞ্জর, romanized: khôñjôr, Turkish: Hançer, Persian: خنجر, Urdu: خنجر, Serbo-Croatiabn: Handžar) is a traditional dagger originating from Oman, although it has since spread to the rest of the Middle East, South Asia, and the Balkans. Worn by men for ceremonial occasions, it is a short, curved sword shaped like the letter ‘J’ and resembles a hook. It can be made from a variety of different materials, depending on the quality of its craftsmanship. It is a popular souvenir among tourists and is sold in souqs throughout the region. A national symbol of the Sultanate, the khanjar is featured on Oman’s national emblem and on the Omani rial [currency]. It also features in logos and commercial imagery by companies based in Oman.” – Wikipedia

Qsar Al-Hosn Palace Salalah, the enormous Sultan’s Palace complex, with villas and landscaped gardens along the beach front, is home to the family of the Sultan, Oman’s ruler, His Majesty Sultan Haitham bin Tariq bin Taimur bin Said; while not open to the public, it is noteworthy because its crenellated walls dominate the southern end of town, making for an unmissable landmark for the adjoining souq

The mosque and minaret (tower for the call to prayer) of Qsar Al-Hosn Palace Salalah, Salalah, Oman, which is one of six royal residences of the ruling monarch, the Sultan, a royal complex with a history of over 200 years

The lushly landscaped road outside the shoreside Qsar Al-Hosn Palace Salalah, Salalah, Oman

“Salalah, the capital of the Dhofar region, is a colourful, subtropical city that owes much of its character to Oman’s former territories in East Africa. Indeed, flying into Salalah from Muscat, especially during the khareef (rainy season), it’s hard to imagine that Oman’s first and second cities share the same continent.

“From mid-June to mid-August, monsoon clouds from India engulf Salalah in fine drizzle. As a result, the stubble of the encircling plain and the desert escarpment beyond (referred to locally as the jebel) is transformed into a verdant oasis where huge herds of camels graze alongside cattle and goats in the engulfing mists. Gulf visitors flock to Salalah at this time to enjoy the long-running tourism festival and to picnic under the rain clouds. All year round, however, Salalah’s coconut-fringed beaches, banana plantations and sociable Dhofari culture offer an attractive flavour of Zanzibar in the heart of the Arabian desert.” — www.lonelyplanet.com/oman/dhofar/salalah

A little-known fact: Zanzibar (Island) was a main African trading port for the Omanis hundreds of years ago. It was so important that the Sultan of the region actually moved to Zanzibar in the first half of the 19^th century, where he built a palace and government buildings for the administration of the Dhofar region of Oman. The Omanis traded frankincense and local agricultural goods for African slaves, ivory, and other African goods and agricultural products.

Modern apartment buildings near the Sultan Qaboos Mosque (Masjid) and the Souq in Salalah, Oman

Additional modern apartment buildings near the Sultan Qaboos Mosque (Masjid) and the Souq in Salalah, Oman

A butcher cutting up fresh local camel meat, Salalah Central Market, Salalah, Oman

We bought a kilogram (2.2 pounds) of these high-quality local dates from the date store in the Salalah Central Market, Salalah, Oman; they are delicious!

Lots of discussion by the men shopping for fish with the fishmongers at the Salalah Central Market, Salalah, Oman; NOTE that women do not do the grocery shopping in the Omani culture – just men as both shoppers and vendors

The fish market at the Salalah Central Market, Salalah, Oman, had a very wide selection of both fish and seafood

A fishmonger cutting up a ray fish for filets in the Salalah Central Market, Salalah, Oman; there was a separate room from the fish being sold for fishmongers to clean and trim the fish for either vendors or retail customers

Shops along a main street near central Salalah, Oman

Eat local: The Tuna and The Crab, Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

Posted on January 27, 2023 by richardcedwards

The “old entrance” to the old town of Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka, through the arch in the “Old Dutch Warehouse” (1669 A.D.) building that now houses the Maritime Archaeology Museum at the edge of town

Galle is a major city on the southwest coast of Sri Lanka, 119 kilometers [74 miles] south of Colombo, our previous port-of-call. It is known for Galle Fort, the fortified old city founded by Portuguese colonists in the 16th century. Stone sea walls, expanded by the Dutch, encircle car-free streets with architecture reflecting Portuguese, Dutch and British rule. Notable buildings include the 18th-century Dutch Reformed Church. Galle Lighthouse stands on the fort’s southeast tip.

A class of schoolgirls walking through the arch — the so-called “old entrance” to the old city — of the Maritime Archaeology Museum, Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

A picturesque section of the exterior wall of the Maritime Archaeology Museum, Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

“Galle is a jewel. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this historic city is a delight to explore on foot, an endlessly exotic old trading port blessed with imposing Dutch-colonial buildings, ancient mosques and churches, grand mansions and museums. Wandering its rambling lanes you’ll pass stylish cafes, quirky boutiques and impeccably restored hotels owned by local and foreign artists, writers, photographers, and designers.

“Built by the Dutch, beginning in 1663, Galle’s core is the Fort, a walled enclave surrounded on three sides by the ocean. A key part of the Fort’s appeal is that it isn’t just a pretty place. Sure, tourism [until COVID-19 and the 2022 political unrest in the country] dominate[d] the local economy, but this unique city remains a working community: there are administrative offices and courts, export companies, schools, and colleges. Most travelers are utterly seduced by Galle’s ambience, and it is undoubtedly southern Sri Lanka’s one unmissable sight.” — http://www.lonelyplanet.com/sri-lanka/the-south/galle

The 18th-century Groote Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church), Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

“Originally built in 1640, the present [Groote Kerk (Dutch Reformed Church)] building dates from 1752. Its floor is paved with gravestones from Dutch cemeteries, while other impressive features include the organ and an imposing pulpit made from calamander wood and topped by a grand hexagonal canopy.” — www.lonelyplanet.com

The district court building in Galle Fort, Galle, dating back to the British Colonial era of Ceylon (the former name for Sri Lanka)

The logo for The Tuna and The Crab restaurant, located in the Old Dutch hospital building in Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

It was a surprise to learn that the restaurant featured Japanese cuisine, so we enjoyed a special dish made with the local Sri Lanka mud crabs — “Mud Crab Okonomiyaki, a “pancake” lunch that we first had in Hiroshima, Japan, with pork and shrimp along with the usual cabbage, egg, etc. – at The Tuna and The Crab, Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

“Okonomiyaki is a Japanese savory pancake dish consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients cooked on a teppan. Common additions include cabbage, meat, and seafood, and toppings include okonomiyaki sauce, aonori, katsuobushi, Japanese mayonnaise, and pickled ginger.” — Wikipedia

Our main course at The Tuna and The Crab, Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka, was the local favorite, garlic chili mud crab, both spicy (chili) and sweet (the crab meat from the body, claws, and legs)

“The Sri Lankan Mud Crab also known as the lagoon crab is the number one, or easily the most famous delicacy from the island. The Sri lankan Mud Crab is sought after by many foodies, chefs, and restaurateurs alike. It is also the number one delicacy shipped to other nearby countries for the famous chili crab dish. It wasn’t always like that. As a child I remember my grandmother buying this from people who came door-to-door with hand woven baskets filled with these mud crabs. At that time, long ago, this was the best buy, especially for large families, because of the crabs’ low price. In comparison to the sea crab, the Mud Crab in Sri Lanka was very cheap and not consumed by many. Yes, that was a time when the Mud Crab was severely underrated and considered a poor man’s food. I would like to think that the Mud Crab is now looking at the once over glorified sea crab and saying: ‘Look at me now!’. It does however have a very specific and unique taste and has a stronger, sweeter flavor compared with the sea crab. If cooked properly and given the due respect, Mud Crab is one of the best shellfish/crustaceans you will ever have.” – Ruzaina Hadgie, YouTube, “The Minority Taste”

The inner courtyard of the Old Dutch Hospital, where The Tuna and The Crab restaurant is located, Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka

An old canon is pointed at the Galle harbor from Galle Fort, Sri Lanka, where our ship was anchored

A typical street in Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka, with walls and buildings dating back to the colonial period

A store in Galle Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka, selling statues that were modern interpretations of Hindu gods

Eat local: DOC Restaurant by Rui Paula, Douro Valley, Porto (Oporto), Portugal

Posted on September 22, 2022 by richardcedwards

DOC Restaurant, one of three outstanding restaurants owned and operated by the acclaimed local chef Rui Paula, is located near Quinta do Bomfim in the heart of the Douro Valley along the bank of the Douro River, Portugal

Following our tour and vintage port tasting at Quinta do Bomfim, one of the premier quintas (wine estates) owned by Symington Family Estates, we enjoyed an exceptional tasting menu luncheon at DOC Restaurant, one of three outstanding restaurants owned and operated by the acclaimed local chef Rui Paula. Fodor’s Travel Guide (online) notes: “This riverside restaurant 9 kilometers [6 miles] from Régua, on the south bank of the Douro [River], draws gourmets from far and wide with chef Rui Paula’s take on traditional northern cuisine. Only the best ingredients are used in dishes in which bacalhau, polvo (octopus), and seafood often loom large, as well as tender bísaro pork and barrosã veal.”

In both couples, each person ordered one or the other of the two tasting menus on offer. Below is the Vindimas (“harvest season” in Portuguese) menu (seven courses).

Along with bread and olive oil and Balsamic vinegar when we had sat down at our table on the terrace, overlooking the Douro River, we were offered two amuse-bouches, Tunma tartare with mashed avocado and a “hot dog” sandwich accompanied by Murganheira Millesime Brut Sparkling 2011 (Pinot Noir/Chardonnay), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A starter of Burrata, tomato, olive and honeycomb accompanied by Murganheira Millesime Brut Sparkling 2011 (Pinot Noir/Chardonnay), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A starter of Smoked eel, Pata Negra smoked ham and date accompanied by Fraga Alta White Wine 2011 (Gouvelo/Rabigato), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A starter of Egg cooked at low temperature and Portuguese sausage “alheira” accompanied by Fraga Alta White Wine 2011 (Gouvelo/Rabigato), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A fish course of Grilled octopus with infusion of extra virgin olive oil and garlic accompanied by Omlet Red Wine 2011 (Touriga Franca/Tinta Roriz/Sousão/Alicante Boushet), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A meat course of Milk-fed baby lamb, vitelotte potato and eggplant accompanied by Quinta de S. Bernardo Reserva da Familia Red Wine 2011 (Vinhas Velhas), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A dessert course of Fruit and eucalyptus soup accompanied by Dalva Single Harvest White Port 2011 (Castas Tradicionais), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

With our first desert course was this delicious White Port (Dalva Single Harvest White Port 2011 (Castas Tradicionais)), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A dessert course of Chocolate and coffee “pie” accompanied by Cockburn’s Vintage Port 2011 (Touriga Nacional/Touriga Franca/Vinhas Velhas/Sousão), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

In both couples, each person ordered one or the other of the two tasting menus on offer. Below is the Signature menu (seven courses).

The Intrepid Explorer and our friends at our table on the terrace, overlooking the Douro River, at DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A starter of Foie gras terrine, wild berries and hazelnut accompanied by Murganheira Touriga Nacional Brut Sparkling 2011 (Touriga Nacional), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A starter of Watermelon gazpacho and smoked mackerel accompanied by Murganheira Touriga Nacional Brut Sparkling 2011 (Touriga Nacional), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A starter of scallops and citrus accompanied by Pomendor White Wine 2020 (Rabigato/Coldega de L), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A fish course of Sea bass from our coast with calm’s cream accompanied by Rebolar White Wine 2018 (Ragigato/Viosinho/Arinto/Gouveio), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A meat course of Crispy suckling pig with galette potatoes and sautéed vegetables accompanied by Duas Àrvores Reserva Red Wine 2018 (Touriga Nacional/Touriga Franca/T. Barroca/T. Roriz/Mourisco), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A dessert course of Mango, passion fruit and coconut accompanied by Madeira Old Reserve 10 years old (Castas Tradicionais), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

A dessert course of Abade de Piscos pudding (eggs and smoked ham sauce), pineapple and mint accompanied by DR Tawny 20 years Port Wine (Castas Tradicionais), DOC Restaurant, Douro Valley, Portugal

Galway, County Galway, Ireland

Posted on September 9, 2022 by richardcedwards

In the Galway Harbor are many so-called “Galway Hookers”, small sailboats that historically sailed in the waters around Galway, County Galway, on the west coast of Ireland along what is called “The Wild Atlantic Way”

“Galway is one of the brightest and most intriguing jewels of the West of Ireland. It marks the halfway point on the Wild Atlantic Way and is the only city on the entire 2,500 kilometer [1,553 miles] route. The city is wild and bohemian, and at the same time full of culture, artistry, exceptional food, and music. As well as being a popular seaside destination with long sandy beaches, Galway is also a thriving and cosmopolitan city centre. It is always a joy to explore with its wonderful, cobbled streets, colourful shop facades, and its offbeat café/bar culture. Galway is also well known for its proliferation of festivals and civic events, with huge crowds gathering for the much-celebrated Galway International Arts Festival, the craic of the Galway Races, the spectacular Macnas Halloween Parade and numerous other events throughout the year.” — www.galwaytourism.ie

Galway, with a population of over 83,000, is the sixth most populous city on the island of Ireland and the fourth most populous in the Republic of Ireland. Historically, it’s location on the River Corrib (between Lough (Lake) Corrib and Galway Bay on the Atlantic Ocean) was important in the development of mills and other businesses that harnessed water power for energy to power various “engines” for manufacturing and processing.

The main square in Galway, County Galway, Ireland, is Eyre Square which contains John F. Kennedy Park, named in honor of the past president of the United States who visited Galway in June 1963 on his three-day visit to Ireland, the first such visit ever by an American president

Our walk around Galway was led by Brian Nolan of Galway City Walking Tours. He shared many great historical stories about the city, its buildings and the neighborhoods we visited. We most highly recommend him. He can be reached at email: galwaywalks@gmail.com or on the Web at www.galwaywalks.com

Brian’s favorite quote: “I bring to you today the greetings of the people of Galway, New York; Dublin, New Hampshire; the people of Killarney, West Virginia; Kilkenny, Minnesota; the people of Limerick, Maine; and the people of Shamrock, Texas.” JFK’s speech in Galway, June 1963

Another view of Eyre Square in the heart of Galway, County Galway, Ireland

Retail shops, pubs and cafés line the streets around Eyre Square, Galway, County Galway, Ireland

“Galway might be Ireland’s most charming city: compact, walkable and filled to the brim with independent shops and restaurants that walk the fine line between cool and kitsch. Cozy, old-fashioned pubs showcase the city’s ever-growing selection of craft beers, chefs serve up west-of-Ireland ingredients in creative new ways, and almost every building housing a modern cafe or new atelier has a centuries-old story behind it. It’s not a city in which to hustle; rather, it’s one in which to enjoy a locally brewed pint, relish the excellent seafood and get your fill of views of the rushing River Corrib as it sweeps out to Galway Bay.” — www.nytimes.com/interactive/2016/03/31/travel/what-to-do-36-hours-in-galway-ireland.html

This is all that remains of a three-block long castle in the center of Galway – Lynch’s Castle – named after one of the city’s leading clans that built it, starting in the 14th century, Galway, County Galway, Ireland

“Lynch’s Castle, situated between Shop Street and Abbeygate Street, which now houses the AIB bank, could easily go unnoticed. Yet it is a striking example of a medieval fortified house. The castle is four storeys high with embellished carved windows, gargoyles and ornamental mouldings and cornices. Built by the powerful Lynch family as a protection from raids, parts of the limestone building may date back to the 14th century, but the bulk of it was built in the 16th century. The Lynches, of Anglo-Norman descent, were one of the powerful 14 tribes who ruled Galway.

“The family was influential and featured prominently in Galway’s history. In 1493 James Lynch Fitzstephen, then mayor of Galway, hanged his own son for the murder of a Spanish sailor. The Lynch coat of arms can be seen on the front of the building as well as coats of arms for Henry VII and the Fitzgerald’s of Kildare.” — www.galwaytourism.ie/lynchs-castle/ Note from Brian Nolan, our walking guide: The English term “lynching” is said to be derived from mayor Lynch’s hanging of his son from the castle [lynch definition: (of a mob) kill (someone), especially by hanging, for an alleged offense with or without a legal trial.]”

Shops along High Street in Galway, County Galway, Ireland

Galway, Ireland’s unofficial cultural capital, is the only city where you’re likely to hear Irish Gaelic spoken in the streets, shops, and pubs. Traditional tunes played on fiddles, harps, tin whistles, bagpipes, and bodhráns (hand-held goatskin drums) drift out into the evening air from cozy cafés and pubs along the winding, cobblestone streets.

This former linen mill on the River Corrib in Galway, County Galway, Ireland, used water from the river to power its looms; the building was renovated and is now an apartment building

We had an excellent seafood luncheon with friends at The Seafood Bar @ Kirwans in the Latin Quarter of Galway, County Galway, Ireland

Stretching from the Spanish Arch to O’Brien’s Bridge, the Latin Quarter has several examples of its medieval heritage and some of the city’s best-known pubs, shops, and historic buildings. Kirwans Lane has preserved several vestiges of 16th- and 17th-century architecture and is now home to bohemian style cafés and one of the best craft shops in the city.

One of the many shops on Kirwans Lane in the Latin Quarter in Galway, County Galway, Ireland

During our morning walk through the Latin Quarter, we enjoyed an excellent Irish Coffee and met the proprietor at the King’s Head pub (that is over 800 years old); Galway, County Galway, Ireland

From a sign in the King’s Head pub in Galway that recounts a local legend: “In December 1648 the greatly purged British Parliament, at the behest of Oliver Cromwell, reluctantly passed sentence on King Charles I that he be executed for his part in causing two civil wars in his country. So that he would not be executed by an Englishman, emissaries were sent to Ireland, Scotland and Wales in search of a volunteer… two Galway soldiers, named Richard Gunning and Dean, volunteered and were sent to England, where, on the 30^th of January 1649, Gunning found himself masked in black, holding an axe and awaiting the signal. The signal came, the axe flashed, and Charles I was dead. A grateful Parliament bestowed this building on Gunning in 1649. Gunning was often heard to boast in the taverns of Galway that ‘this arm felt the muscles on the neck of the King of England.’”

One of the proprietors of Sheridans Cheesmongers in the Latin Quarter of Galway, County Galway, Ireland, where we bought some outstanding Irish and imported cheeses and Irish crackers

Eat local: The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

Posted on September 4, 2022 by richardcedwards

Our drive from Greenock, the ocean port for Scotland’s largest city by population, Glasgow, to Loch Ness took us through the spectacular Glencoe Mountains

We had a chance to do some walking among the Glencoe Mountains, south of Glencoe, Scotland, United Kingdom

From Oban, Scotland, we sailed through the Hebrides Islands for a day to next arrive in Greenock, on the western mainland of Scotland, which serves as the ocean port for Scotland’s largest city by population, Glasgow. Our friends from Scotland had left their car in Greenock, so we were able to have a leisurely drive through the Scottish Highlands up to Loch Ness, just south of Inverness on the North Sea. Our drive took us past Loch Lomond (famous from the eponymous song), The Trossachs National Park and, closer to Fort William, we had a chance to stop and walk some amongst the spectacular Glencoe Mountains. Our destination was the Loch Ness Lodge on Loch Ness where we spent the night. Our dinner that night was at the cozy Struy Inn in the small village of Struy, near Beauly (which is west of Inverness). A Scottish couple runs the inn, handling the front of the house and all the cooking themselves. With only 5 tables, the service was very personalized and attentive. The food was as good as it looks in the following photographs – they specialize in local Scottish seafood and game and produce. It was a delightful evening spent in good company in a delightful, off-the-beaten-path restaurant in the “back country” west of Loch Ness and south of Inverness.

The Glencoe Mountains, south of Glencoe, Scotland, United Kingdom – photograph #3

The Glencoe Mountains, south of Glencoe, Scotland, United Kingdom – photograph #4, a spectacular cloud formation

The Loch Ness Lodge, Drumnadrochit, Scotland, United Kingdom

Loch Ness, viewed from our room at the Loch Ness Lodge, Drumnadrochit, Scotland, United Kingdom; although we looked, we did not see “Nessie”, the Loch Ness monster

The exterior of The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

“We are a traditional 19th century cosy country restaurant with just 5 pre-booked tables available each evening for an intimate dining experience. We offer a choice of freshly prepared meals. Featuring Scotch Steaks, Highland Game, Fish & Shellfish from our ever-changing seasonal Scottish larder here in the Highlands. Our Seafood Menu takes advantage of all the local seasonal produce available. With characterful stone walls and a warm wood-burning stove, the Struy Inn is the perfect place to relax for a meal. Our kitchen serves top quality British & Scottish cuisine. A true taste of Scotland.

Our Restaurant is situated in the heart of Scotland’s Central Highlands within an easy drive of both Inverness and Loch Ness. Located in the village of Struy, mid-way between Cannich and Beauly, the inn sits at the junction of the Farrar and Glass rivers, and at the gateway to the remote and spectacular glens of Affric, Cannich and Strathfarrar.” — http://www.thestruy.co.uk

The welcoming bar and living room of The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

A first course of Scottish haggis en croute at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom; haggis is a savory pudding containing sheep’s pluck (heart, liver, and lungs), minced with onion, oatmeal, suet, spices, and salt, mixed with stock

A first course of crab mornay at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

A first course of langoustines at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

A first course of scallops, streaky bacon and mashed peas at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

A main course of duck with orange sauce at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

A main course of lobster thermidor at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom; lobster thermidor is a French dish of lobster meat cooked in a rich wine sauce, stuffed back into a lobster shell, and browned

A main course of local Scottish beef steak and chips (potatoes) and vegetables at The Struy Inn, Struy, Inverness-shire, Scotland, United Kingdom

Eat Local: The View Restaurant, Cullin Hills Hotel, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

Posted on August 31, 2022 by richardcedwards

Multicolored retail and marine shops along the main pier of Portree on Portree Bay, on the beautiful and rugged Isle of Skye in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, United Kingdom

Time (magazine, USA) counts Portree, on the beautiful and rugged Isle of Skye in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland, United Kingdom, as one of the “World’s Greatest Places 2022”. “The Isle of Skye has a stunning Scottish landscape characterized by coastal cliffs, craggy hills, and medieval castles, and its capital of Portree (pop. 2,300) is just as inviting as it is rugged. For generations, city-weary Glaswegians have been escaping here on weekends, drawn by idyllic scenery and relative proximity. Now it’s casting a wider net, welcoming a postpandemic influx of American visitors.

“Greeting them upon arrival are quaint yet luxuriously appointed inns like the Cullin Hills Hotel, with a pristine lawn at the edge of the loch… Nearby, explore the landscape on countless miles of well-maintained hiking trails. Amble your way along the Old Man of Storr, a mossy pinnacle that stands some 2,300 ft. [xx meters] above sea level. Or complete a 4.3-mile [xx kilometers] circuit through the Quiraing, with unmistakably Tolkienesque terrain.

“When you’re back in town, you’re as likely to hear and taste the local culture as you are to see and feel it. The annual Skye Live Music Festival returned in 2022, and the island recently celebrated the opening of Torabhaig, its first new whisky distillery in 190 years. Save room for the fried fish: Portree’s seaside chippers [or “chippies” – fish and chips (Americans call them “French Fries”) restaurants] are among the best in all of Britain.” — https://time.com/collection/worlds-greatest-places-2022/6194521/portree-scotland/

From the main pier (where our tender boats landed) we hiked along the waterfront and the Scorrybreac Trail, then up the hills towards the small town of Toravaig (pictured), in a loop, and back to downtown Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

“The village of Portree, situated on the east side of Skye overlooking a sheltered bay, is the capital of the island. It is surrounded by hills… Portree is only about 200 years old and was created as a fishing village at the beginning of the 19th century by the then Lord MacDonald. The name Portree or Port Righ, King’s Port in Gaelic, (as on the road signs) is popularly thought to derive from a visit by King James V (of Scotland) in 1540 but the area around the harbour was called Portree or Portray long before the arrival of the king. Its name really comes from the Gaelic for Port on the Slope.

“It has everything a visitor could wish for – banks, churches, cafes and restaurants, a cinema at the Aros Centre, a swimming pool and library at the school, gift and book shops, a tourist information centre, petrol filling stations and supermarkets, one in the village and a larger one out on the Dunvegan Road.

“There is a regular daily bus service from Portree’s Somerled Square to Inverness and Glasgow and a local service round Skye. There are also sight-seeing trips round the island by bus or car and boat trips from the pier.” — www.isleofskye.com/portree

Portree is both the largest town on, and the capital of, the isle of Skye in the Inner Hebrides of Scotland.

The view of the multi-colored store fronts on the Portree wharf from the Cullin Hills Hotel, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

The Cullin Hills Hotel, just named by Tripadvisor to their list of the top 10% of hotels, worldwide, is a small family run hotel in Portree that enjoys some of the finest and most spectacular views from any hotel in Scotland (see the previous and next photographs). Originally a Victorian-era hunting lodge, the hotel is set on 15 acres of mature private grounds, overlooking Portree Bay and the Cudllin Mountain Range, including a large lawn where friends were served both drinks and lunch. We chose to dine in the View Restaurant, which specializes in seafood and local cuisine.

The View Restaurant is located in the front, on the ground floor of the Cullin Hills Hotel, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom, overlooking Portree Bay and Portree Harbor

The view of Portree Bay from inside the Michelin Guide-recommended restaurant in the Cullin Hills Hotel, The View Restaurant, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

Fish (fried haddock) and chips (French Fries, in America) at The View Restaurant, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

Skye Red Ale is “a balanced, nutty and exceptionally smooth craft ale. In the Scottish tradition, malted barley is to the fore: we use three different types, along with just the right amount of Challenger and Fuggle hops. The ale’s deep hue is no accident – we took our inspiration from Skye’s Red Cullin hills” – Isle of Skye Brewing Co., Uig, Isle of Skye, Scotland.

www.skyeale.com

The view of Portree Harbor on our 10-minute walk back into Portree from The View Restaurant, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

Some homes on, and near, Portree Bay, viewed on our walk back into Portree from The View Restaurant, Portree, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

Downtown Portree with the Bank of Scotland, a church and inn on the main town square, Someled Square, Isle of Skye, Inner Hebrides, Scotland, United Kingdom

A Walking Tour and Eat local: Casa Blanca Restaurant, Panama City, Panama (2022)

Posted on April 9, 2022 by richardcedwards

Panama City, Panama, has a skyline of glass and steel (almost all the skyscrapers are residences, not offices) that contrasts with the Casco Viejo (Old Town) peninsula

Arguably the most cosmopolitan capital in Central America, Panama City is a vibrant metropolis with a skyline of glass and steel that contrasts with the Casco Viejo (Old Town) peninsula, a hip neighborhood of boutique hotels with rooftop bars, cafés, and artisan workshops tucked away in colonial buildings. Visitors can explore the city’s` restaurants, parks, and museums as they walk along the lively Amador Causeway. A handful of world-famous attractions like the Panama Canal, Miraflores Locks, the BioMuseo (designed by Frank Gehry), and the Panama ruins add to the city’s diverse offerings.

[For additional photographs and information, see our previous blog post from November 27, 2015, titled “Panama City, Panama”.]

Typical restored colonial building residences in Casco Viejo (Old Town), Panama City, Panama

There’s a sharp contrast between the Casco Viejo (Old Town) peninsula and the new skyscrapers in downtown Panama City, Panama

A little know fact: When U.S. Senators were undecided about whether to build the canal in Panama or Nicaragua, key lobbyist Philippe Bunau-Varilla sent them a postage stamp depicting one of Nicaragua’s many volcanoes, convincing the legislators that Panama was the safer option. The stamp is now on display at the National Postal Museum in Washington, D.C.