Eat and Drink local: Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 — the winery is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center

On our last day in the Mendoza wine regions, we drove south to a relatively newly developed area, comprising five wineries in the Clos de Los Siete group.  Each winery is owned independently, but they collectively produce one estate wine, Clos de Los Siete.  Our visit was to Bodega DiamAndes, where we had an outstanding tour led by the estate’s executive chef, Santiago Orozco Russo, followed by a delicious and creative luncheon with paired estate wines at the estate’s restaurant, DIAMS Bar & Bistrot.  We found out that the restaurant, DIAMs, was awarded the gold medal for “Best Winery Restaurant in Argentina 2021” by the Great Wine Capitals.  The winery itself is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center.  The winery produces Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay and Viognier as well as red blends and a rose.  DiamAndes has been an organic certified vineyard since 2022.  Natural fertilizers and biodegradable products, both environmentally friendly, are used, creating more stable and balanced vineyards with a significant improvement in the quality of the grapes.

“A play on the word “diamante,” this ultra-modern Uco Valley winery’s name is inspired by the snow-capped peaks among which it sits, at 1,000 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Andes.  Part of the prestigious Clos de los Siete group, the estate’s 130 hectares were acquired by the Bonnie family (of Château Malartic-Lagravière and Château Gazin Rocquencourt, in Bordeaux) in 2005, with a gravity flow winery opening in 2009 designed by Eliana Bórmida and Mario Yanzón, a duo renowned for their ‘landscape architecture’ incorporating the Mendoza landscape with sympathy and flair.  The circular barrel cellar (full of premium French oak barrels) and the magical crypt (used to store and age bottles) are particular highlights, not to mention the culinary prowess of the award-winning restaurant.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/explore/Vineyards/Argentina/Mendoza/Bodega-DiamAndes-SA.html

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the beautifully designed winery complex (one of the two buildings is pictured here), utilizing gravity flow, opened in 2009

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the extensive estate vineyards are close to the foothills of the Andes Mountains, which gave the winery part of its name (diamANDES)

The winery’s philosophy relates to its exceptional location in the Uco Valley at an elevation of 1,100 meters (3,609 feet): “Nothing exceptional can be achieved without an exceptional terroir”.

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – stainless steel fermentation tanks in the gravity flow winery complex

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – with two labels (one for domestic consumption, and one for export), our first wine was a 2022 L’Argentin de Malartic Malbec Rose

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – our amuse bouche was a delicious mushroom puree empanada in beetroot pastry on a base of mased avocado

“The Franco-Argentine blend is also evident at DIAM’s Bar & Bistrot, a high-end restaurant mixing Argentine produce with a touch of French gastronomic flair.  Led by chef Santiago Orozco Russo, the team creates original and perfectly crafted dishes sourced from the organic garden and local suppliers.  The restaurant offers four menus a year, each specially designed to highlight the season and a label from the DiamAndes range.  The restaurant cellar also houses a collection of older vintages.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/Bodega-Diamandes.html

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – our first course was a rainbow of fruits and vegetables served creatively on a broken “pizza crust”-shaped ceramic plate

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our second wine was a 2019 DiamAndes de Uco Syrah

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – our second course was confit rabbit terrine, pistachio and figs, caramelized onions gel, cherries, grapes, wild fennel

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – our next wine was 2020 DiamAndes de Uco Malbec

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 11 – for our main course we chose the beef loin & demi-glace, sage butter, Andean potatoes, truffle mayonnaise, chips and sprouts

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 12 – our dessert wine was a 2022 DiamAndes Perilta Chardonnay

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 13 – for dessert we had mascarpone and apricot mousse, purple corn crumble, yogurt & matcha sauce

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat and drink local: Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 – we enjoyed our luncheon at the winery’s locally popular (and “famous”) restaurant, La Azul, that serves a five-course Argentian parilla-style luncheon, paired with their own wines

Leaving Bodega Zuccardi mid-day, we drove north through the Uco Valley to reach Bodega La Azul, one of the smallest wineries in the Uco Valley and completely family owned.  While the family originally grew grapes and sold to some other wineries, they began making wine in 2003 and today produce about 120,000 75-ml bottles (10,000 cases of 12-bottles).  We stopped for their locally popular (and “famous”) five-course Argentian parilla-style luncheon, paired with their own wines.  In Argentine cuisine, the word parilla refers to three things: the barbecue grill, the metal grate positioned over the grill’s wood and ember-filled firebox, and steakhouses that serve barbecued meat.  The restaurant was completely full – mostly locals, particularly small to large groups of young men, and, separately, young women, with a scattering of couples and a few families with younger children.  With endless pours of each of the three wines paired with the five-course lunch, we could see (and hear) how popular their late afternoon luncheon was — whether inside the open-air restaurant, or on the veranda, all overlooking the Andes Mountains and their vineyards.  This was probably the most authentic “local” Argentine meal that we had in Mendoza and was tasty and a lot of fun.

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating and was jam-packed all afternoon (on a Friday, not yet even the weekend!)

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – one of the starter courses was grilled corn and cherry tomatoes on top of corn pudding

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – another starter course was a fresh mixed greens salad with roasted pearl onions

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – our third starter was choripán, a type of Argentine assado sandwich made with grilled chorizo

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – another starter was empanadas cooked in a very hot clay oven

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – one main course was slowly cooked pork shoulder

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – another main course was glazed, grilled pork belly ribs
Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – a quiet area outside the bustling restaurant

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat and drink local: Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 – a beautiful trellis in between the vineyards welcomed us to the estate and, neaby, the vegetable garden (for the restaurant) and the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil

On our second day, we began in Luján de Cuyo at Bodega El Enemigo, where we had a brief tour and then enjoyed an excellent luncheon with wine pairings at the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil.  “El Enemigo is the passion project of two Argentinian friends that has earned a cult following, dreamed up during a twilit sojourn along the River Thames in London in 2009.  Alejandro Vigil is a soil expert and celebrated winemaker who for years has headed operations at Bodega Catena Zapata, the estate owned by Adrianna Catena’s father, the legendary Nicolás, a party in honour of whom they were both attending that opportune night.  Adrianna is a historian currently studying for her doctorate at Oxford University.  El Enemigo – the enemy – was created to produce a wine that would respect history and traditions whilst simultaneously rejecting the status quo…  The original goal was to produce cool climate, high altitude Cabernet Franc (the vineyards are up to 1,470 metres above sea level), based on a mutual love of retro Pomerol-style Bordeaux – Cheval Blanc in particular.  It may not have been a fashionable move at the time, but this is where the duo’s shared rebellious streak kicked in.  Today, their Cabernet Franc is peppered with a hint of Malbec, displaying the sharpness and tannic grip they both craved.  Also very popular is the ‘Gran Enemigo’ Cabernet Franc-dominated blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot.  There are also single varietal and single plot examples, displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils.  Techniques meld old with new: fashionable concrete eggs are used in conjunction with 100-year-old Alsatian oak foudres shipped in from Italy before being re-toasted and reassembled, as per tradition.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/21-30/el-enemigo-wines.html

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 — the vegetable garden for the restaurant

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – estate vineyards

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – our lunceeon wine pairing at the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil:  2021 El Enemigo Mendoza Chardonnay, 2018 El Enemigo Mendoza Malbec, and 2018 El Enemigo Mendoza Cabernet Franc

After a brief walk through the estate, we enjoyed an excellent multi-course luncheon at the estate’s acclaimed restaurant, Casa Vigil, accompanied by wine pairings selected from Bodega El Enemigo.  We found this review on the website for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Discovery:  [Casa Vigil] “is a feast for the senses: sit outside in its verdant rural surrounds on a beautiful day, a glass of homegrown wine in your hand.  ‘Mi casa es tu casa’ is the bodega’s motto, an ethos apparent in the team’s generous hospitality – the only difference being, the food isn’t this good at home.  A worthy entry point is the five-course lunch with paired wines, which, following guests being treated to a tour of the vineyard, showcases the likes of flavour-packed ribs, ossobuco, cacao ravioli and gnocchi expertly prepared using the finest of local produce.  The accompanying bins are all carefully selected to enhance each course.  Return for a 10-course dinner extravaganza – and be sure to leave room for the seriously impressive cheese board.” — www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/Establishments/Argentina/Mendoza/Casa-El-Enemigo.html

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – a starter course of beef carpaccio

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – a starter course of homemade gazpacho

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 — a starter course of a beef empanada

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 — a starter course of homemade gnocchi

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – a main course of grilled salmon trout with garden vegetables

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – pairing very nicely with the 2018 El Enemigo Mendoza Malbec was a main course of grilled beef tenderloins

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 11 – an ice cream dessert with pistachio macaroons

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 12 – a form of a pavlova with home-grown strawberries

Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 13 – a pear-centric desert with poached pears, pear “soup” and pear ice cream

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat local: Fogón Asado — Gorriti, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 1 – “at Fogón you will experience an up-close and exclusive view of the asado craft prepared right in front of you on our custom-made grill.”

On our first trip to Buenos Aires in 2016 we did the high-end touristy dinner at the very highly-rated, traditional Argentinian grilled beef restaurant, Don Julio, which was excellent.  This trip we decided to try something different, and based on several recommendations, we got a reservation for us and three good friends for a tasting-menu asado dinner at the highly-regarded (and Michelin-recommended) Fogón Asado in downtown Buenos Aires.  Asado is a multifunctional term that describes the method of barbecuing meat in South America, the meat itself, and the social event associated with the meal.  Much like an American barbecue, asado has a unique cooking method, cultural traditions, and specialty sauces that accompany it.  Asado takes its origin from the Spanish word asar, meaning to grill.

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 2 – our 9-course asado tasting menu focused on meats – at Fogón they use local grass-fed beef in new and creative preparations

“At Fogón you will experience an up-close and exclusive view of the asado craft prepared right in front of you on our custom-made grill.  Our specially designed Asado tasting menus showcase the best Argentine ingredients and local grass-fed beef in new and creative preparations, perfectly paired with wine varieties from Argentina’s oldest wineries… Our Asado Tasting Menu consists of 9 courses of dishes that elevate the Asado experience to new heights, bringing you closer to the essence of cooking with fire.  The menu is entirely prepared on our state-of-the-art custom grill in front of guests, bringing you on an intimate, communal culinary journey.  Our optional wine pairings are inspired by and in line with the flavors of our kitchen.” — https://fogonasado.com/

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 3 — local grass-fed beef short ribs trimmed and ready to go in the smoker for one hour

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 4 – the local grass-fed beef short ribs, trimmed and ready, are smoked (in this portable coals-fired smoker) for one hour

“If the idea of a dining experience based around a traditional grill concept sounds appealing, this unusual restaurant in the Palermo district will definitely fit the bill but you’ll need to book ahead!  Attention to detail is to the fore here, and the subdued lighting and open brickwork ensure that all the focus is on the large grill at the centre of the dining room.  The dining experience, based around an 8-[or 9=] course menu (fire-roasted aubergines, chorizo, morcilla, Provoleta cheese, a succulent glazed pork belly, pine cone-smoked “ceja” and ribeye), is both informative and interactive with constant communication between the grill chefs and guests, the majority of whom are tourists or groups of friends.  Everything the chefs do is explained in detail, from the provenance of the wood used, the feed used for the cattle, the best accompanying salsas etc.  A splendid and fun journey lasting over two hours across Argentina’s most popular culinary art form!” — https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 5 – our team of chefs/”waiters” prepared the first course – seasonal vegetable with ricotta cheese with fresh herbs

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 6 – our first course was grilled Italian eggplant halves with ricotta cheese with fresh herbs

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 7 — our 2nd course was “ironed” provoleta cheese (grilled provolone cheese) with grilled fruit and a tomato reduction

For our wine pairings with dinner, the Intrepid Explorer and your blogger both chose the “Malbec Discovery” pairings, consisting of five top end Mendoza region Argentinian Malbecs:

Zuccardi Polígonos Malbec

Zuccardi Aluvional Malbec

Catena Adrianna Vineyard Designated Malbec

Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino (see photograph # 15 and its caption, along with the following text)

Zuccardi Malamado Malbec (a port style wine)

Note that a week later, on an overland journey to the Mendoza region for a few days with friends from the ship, we did visit two of these three wineries: Zuccardi and Catena Zapata, where we greatly enjoyed their wines, again.

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our 3rd course was rmojella (sweetbreads) and roasted tomatoes and ginger sauce

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 9 — our 4th course was morcilla – a blood sausage, and a chorizo sausage each topped with quince and apple chutney

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 10 — our 5th course was slow braised asado al Papillote (smoky, grilled beef short ribs) – the pinecone smoked beef ribs were removed from the portable smoker (see photograph #4, above) for slicing and serving

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 11 – we were each offered a personal choice of a custom made Fogón steak knife

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 12 — our 6th course was pork flank steak (Matambre) with yellow chili sauce, lime and cilantro salad

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 13 – once removed from the smoker, the pinecone smoked Ribeye Cap steak was sliced for serving

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 14 — our 7th course was pinecone smoked Ribeye Cap steak with creamy cauliflower puree and flame roasted corn kernels

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 15 — the label for Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino pays tribute to the variety’s history in France and its rise in Argentina

“The epic tale of the noble Malbec grape is like no other, and the label for Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino pays tribute to the variety’s history in France and its rise in Argentina.  Four female figures embody different landmarks in the history of the grape. Eleanor of Aquitaine represents the birth of Malbec.  She is a strong, Old-World presence, lingering at the bridge in Cahors, where Malbec came into its own.  Next, the Immigrant symbolizes the movement to the New World and the unknown explorers and adventurers who connected Europe with the Americas.  Phylloxera personifies the death of Malbec in the Old World, which enabled its rebirth in the new.  Finally, there is Bodega Catena Zapata, represented by Adrianna Catena, who depicts birth, earth, and motherhood, sharing the riches of the New World.  Today, the Catena family’s fourth generation leads the high-altitude renaissance in Argentina.  We are returning Malbec to the sky… where it belongs.  No matter what the vintage, this wine is really more than 100 years old.  It represents a family’s journey to produce an Argentine Malbec that can stand with the great wines of the world.” — https://catenazapata.com/malbec-argentino.php

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 16 — our 8th course was a Ribeye Steak with mashed Boniatos (sweet potatoes) with grilled vegetables with the Chef’s Vinagreta

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 17 — our 9th course was desert: a grilled pancake with Dulce de Leche and Patagonian Berries and whipped cream; the accompanying wine was Zuccardi Malamado Malbec (a port style wine)

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 18 – at the end of the meal our waiters posed for the finale photo of our outstanding dining experience

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 1 — Puerto Madero, a beautifully restored and commercialized neighborhood,  is a revamped dockside area in the background is Puente de la Mujer, a graceful suspension bridge

After our morning guided walk with a local award-winning photographer in the old San Telmo neighborhood (see our previous blog post), we walked slightly northeast  to a beautifully restored and commercialized neighborhood along the Rio de la Plata, Puerto Madero.  Puerto Madero is a revamped dockside area. Its converted redbrick buildings contain upscale steakhouses popular with tourists and business lunchers.  Sleek skyscrapers house multinational corporations and high-value apartments.  Trails loop around several lakes at the wildlife rich Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, which draws families and joggers.  Spanning the docks, Puente de la Mujer is a graceful suspension bridge.

We met some friends for a late luncheon at a Michelin-recommended Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Puerto Madero, along the main street, Juana Manso, in the Los Molinos Building.  It is also one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants (for South America); here’s their write-up: “The name and décor suggest Japan, but the menu is pure Nikkei, a delicious combination of Peruvian and Japanese flavours.  Low lighting, palm trees and stylish partitions set the mood for a romantic meal created by Peruvian chef Eddie Castro, although lunchtime attracts a business crowd.  Reserve a seat at the sushi bar for a close-up of the swift knifework.  House specialties include smoked octopus tiradito, scallop and shrimp ceviche in wasabi sauce and Chirashi Causa (ceviche plus sashimi and prawns in an anticucho sauce).”

“Most notable among the area’s landmarks is the beautiful Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge) inaugurated in 1991.  Designed by Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava, the pedestrian bridge connects the east and west sides of the docks and rotates 90 degrees to allow boats to pass.  Calatrava says the bridge represents a couple dancing tango, but the symbolism is so abstract that you can only conclude that ‘a couple dancing tango’ is an euphemism.  It is one of the visual highlights in the neighborhood when illuminated at night.” — https://wander-argentina.com/puerto-madero-buenos-aires-modern-waterfront-neighborhood/

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 2

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 3 — the city’s newest district, with its sleek high-rises, perfect sidewalks and well-equipped parks is considered one of the most successful urban waterfront restoration projects in the world

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 4

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 5 — the long, narrow dockside neighborhood adorned by young urban professionals now beats out the more aristocratic Recoleta as the most exclusive among Buenos Aires’ 48 neighborhoods

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 6

“Puerto Madero is Buenos Aires’ ritzy prototype of modernity in a city otherwise beloved for its history.  The city’s newest district, with its sleek high-rises, perfect sidewalks and well-equipped parks is considered one of the most successful urban waterfront restoration projects in the world.  The long, narrow dockside neighborhood adorned by young urban professionals now beats out the more aristocratic Recoleta as the most exclusive among Buenos Aires’ 48 neighborhoods.

“Walking around Puerto Madero it’s hard to believe that twenty-five years ago this area was nothing but an urban wasteland occupied only by empty warehouses, zombies and rats.  The neighborhood contains 12,500 residents, and due to what seems like a new apartment tower every month, that number is growing rapidly.  The latest Buenos Aires’ census indicates that it remains the city’s fastest growing neighborhood.  Among tourists, the area is favored by business travelers – some of Buenos Aires’ most exclusive hotels are located here including Hilton Puerto Madero and the Faena Hotel+Universe, voted by Travel and Leisure magazine as one of the top 500 hotels in the world.

“While the apartment towers in the neighborhood are new, on the west docks are Puerto Madero’s original four-story red brick warehouses dating to 1900.  More than a century ago these buildings served as offices and grain storage for shipping companies.  The English-style warehouses now contain luxury offices, restaurants, a movie theater and a private Catholic university.” — https://wander-argentina.com/puerto-madero-buenos-aires-modern-waterfront-neighborhood/

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 7

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 8

Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 9 – an early 1900s grain storage facility that was dockside for loading ships in port

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Driving the Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 1 – on the western shoreline, northwest of Punta de Ballena, we drove to Casapueblo, the home and studio of late Uruguayan internationally renowned artist and architect Carlos Paez Vilaró

Following two days at local wineries with luncheons, and a walk around the Punta del Salinas peninsula, on our third day we hired a guide and car and driver to spend the day mostly outside of the city proper.  As noted in our previous blog post on the city, Punta del Este has expanded tremendously over the past 50 years and now the resort development stretches 40 miles [64 kilometers] along the Uruguayan coast.  It includes dozens of neighborhoods and a few small towns, which are often described all together as “Punta”.  We first headed west up to Casapueblo and then meandered back into the old town where we walked around and enjoyed an early luncheon at a fellow ship Resident’s favorite seafood restaurant on the waterfront, Isodora Restaurant, 21 la Galema, Punta del Este.  The seafood was local and fresh and we surprised ourselves by ordering and enjoying pan-sauteed filets of the largest fresh water fish in the world, from the Amazon River, pirarucu (also known as the arapaima) — growing up to 400 pounds and eight feet long.  After lunch, we drove up the eastern shore to the small fishing village of José Ignacio, passing the famous curvy, small bridge, Puente de la Barra, just before the scenic town of La Barra and on through Manantiales (with some shopping excursions in the towns…).  On the return drive we spent an hour wandering through the fantastic building, art collection and sculptures at MACA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Atchugarry).  Afterwards, we stayed in the city along the waterfront, about one mile from the tender pier, for a nice local seafood dinner, overlooking the western beach and the sunset.

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 2 – private homes overlooking a beach, near Casapueblo

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 3 — Punta de las Salinas, the southernmost point of the city and Uruguay; this is where the waters from the Rio de la Plata (on the western side) and the Atlantic Ocean (on the eastern side) meet

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 4 – from our luncheon at the popular Isodora Restaurant overlooking the Playa Mansa (calm or tame beach) — we thoroughly enjoyed the chef’s pan-sauteed filets of the largest fresh water fish in the world, from the Amazon River, pirarucu (also known as the arapaima) — growing up to 400 pounds and eight feet long

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 5 – the popular beach at José Ignacio

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 6 – the lighthouse at José Ignacio

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 7 – children playing in the water near the lighthouse at José Ignacio

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 8 – on the left side is the main entrance to MACA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Atchugarry), the Uruguayan center for fantastic modern buildings, an excellent art collection and contemporary sculptures (outdoors and indoors), many of the latter by the founder of the Atchugarry Foundation, Pablo Atchugarry

Punta del Este Peninsula, Uruguay, photograph # 9 – from our oceanfront seafood and Uruguayan meat dinner restaurant, a photograph of the beautiful sunset over the west side of the “Punta” peninsula, called the Playa Mansa (calm or tame beach)

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 1 – the main entrance to Bodega Garzón, a young wine and dining estate that was voted New World Winery of the Year 2019 by Wine Enthusiast Magazine

As noted in our previous blog post, our ship’s wine society had an excellent vineyard and winery tour at Bodega Garzón, a young wine and dining estate that is a 2-hour drive northeast from Punta del Este to Garzón in the Maldonado Department, northwest of the fashionable fishing village of José Ignacio.  [See: https://richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com/2024/01/30/drink-local-bodega-garzon-garzon-maldonado-uruguay/ ].  The winery was voted New World Winery of the Year 2019 by Wine Enthusiast Magazine.  For several years since 2018, Bodega Garzón has been voted into the top 5 of the World’s Best Wineries, the only Uruguayan winery to represent the country in the top 50 of 2021.

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 2 – our group’s table on the restaurant’s mezzanine overlooked the vineyards on one side (pictured) and the outdoor “kitchen” with open fire cooking (see photograph # 6, below)

Following our morning tour, we were seated at a long table in the upper part of the large restaurant, overlooking the vineyards on one side and the outdoor “kitchen” with a large open-flame fire-pit and several grills where hot (and some flaming) wood coals were transferred periodically for cooking.  “Sustenance comes courtesy of Patagonian superstar chef Francis Mallmann, whose penchant for open fire cooking adds a deliciously wild element to dining here. The 120-seat restaurant offers a series of menu options, all paired with the estate’s signature wines.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/1-10/bodega-garzon.html

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 3 – the table setting for our luncheon

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 4 – a selection of excellent homemade breads and Lavosh crackers with 3 styles of estate grown and bottled EVOO (extra virgin olive oil)

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 5 – paired with the bread selection was delicious hummus and baba ghanoush (eggplant puree)

Baba ghanoush is a Levantine appetizer consisting of finely chopped roasted eggplant, olive oil, lemon juice, various seasonings, and tahini.  The eggplant is traditionally baked or broiled over an open flame before peeling, so that the pulp is soft and has a smoky taste.

Our luncheon’s first course — oops, not pictured  😦

— was a crispy potato [chip] with homemade sour cream and Polanco Caviar, accompanied by the estate’s Sparkling Blanc de Blanc.

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 6 – the open fire pit and the kitchen team hard at work preparing our empanada course

“World-famous chef Francis Mallmann provided his advice to develop the open-flame cooking technique and develop a Market Menu.  In a Market Menu, chefs only select the best products of the day or the season, using fresh, local, ingredients that reflect the spirit of each season and enhance the local flavours.” — — Bodega Garzon description of the Restaurant

Francis Mallmann is an Argentine celebrity chef, author, and restaurateur who specializes in Argentine cuisine, and especially in Patagonian cuisine with a focus on various Patagonian methods of barbecuing food.  Mallmann is Argentina’s most famous chef known for his open-fire cooking. He currently runs a number of restaurants worldwide: Patagonia Sur (Argentina), Los Fuegos (Miami), Fuego de Apalta (Chile), 1884 Restaurant (Argentina), Garzón (Uruguay), Bodega Fuegos (Argentina), Orégano (Mendoza), and Mallmann on Chateau La Coste (France).  He resides on La Isla, located in one of the remotest corners of Patagonia.  Mallmann’s island is backed by jagged mountains.  With no cellphone coverage or WiFi, it’s one of few places left on earth where disconnecting from the outside world is possible.  He was featured in the ”Francis Mallman” episode of Chef’s Table on television that was first aired on April 26, 2015 (available on Netflix streaming). 

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 7 – our second course was a tasty Mendocinean [ground beef] empanada with Llajua sauce (tomato and garlic-based), accompanied by the delicious estate Cabernet Franc Petit Clos; we bought several bottles to take with us and enjoy on future sailings on our ship

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 8 – before our next course, the accompanying wine, the estate’s top wine, 2018 Balasto, was poured from an elaborate decanter, giving us quite a show, as two waiters walked the length of the table, pouring wine for each of us – here the Intrepid Explorer watches as her glass is filled

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 9 — a close-up of the decanter used to pour the estate’s top wine, 2018 Balasto

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 10 – our main course was sliced, grilled (to perfection) Tomahawk steak with domino potato and mushrooms and meat broth, accompanied by the amazing 2018 Balasto red wine

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 11 – the steak and wine, a terrific pairing!

The 2018 Balasto red wine is regarded by the estate’s wine maker as the best vintage since the winery’s first release of their top end wine in 2010.  It is a Tannat blend, as is typical in Uruguay, with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merselan, and Merlot.  Balasto, the wine, is named after the granite rock that forms the literal foundation of the winery and the estate.  “The ballast soil (balasto) at Bodega Garzón is decomposed granite rock with excellent drainage and minerality.  It is ideal to provide the complexity, energy and vibrancy we wish to give to this iconic Uruguayan wine.”  — Bodega Garzon description of Balasto wines

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 12 – a close-up of the bottle and the wine in the glass

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 13 – the chef, Nicholás Acosta, came out from the kitchen to give us a preview of desset

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 14 – our delicious desert was a mille-feuille (a.k.a., a “Napoleon” in the United States) — puff pastry filled with pastry cream, raspberry, pistachio and homemade dulce de leche, accompanied by the estate’s late harvest wine

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 15 – a close-up of the puff pastry filled with pastry cream, raspberry amd pistachio, a mille-feuille

Eat and drink local: Bodega Garzón, Garzón, Maldonado, Uruguay, photograph # 16 – your photographer at work in the vineyards, capturing images before our outstanding luncheon (see our previous blog post, https://richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com/2024/01/30/drink-local-bodega-garzon-garzon-maldonado-uruguay/ )  Photograph courtesy of and © 2024 by Timothy Threlfall

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat and drink local: Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 1 — in the Canelones region north of Montevideo, Familia Deicas is a family-owned winery dedicated to making terroir-driven wines with a minimal intervention philosophy

As noted in our previous blog post, https://richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com/2024/01/27/drink-local-bodega-bouza-montevideo-uruguay/ , on our second day in Montevideo, Uruguay, a small group of us toured together to two local wineries.  The first is the closest winery to the capital city, Bodega Bouza, about a half-hour drive away in Melilla, Montevideo, and then, another half-hour drive further north to the Canelones region, to tour and have a wine tasting and luncheon at Familia Deicas Winery. 

Familia Deicas Winery, in the Canelones region north of Montevideo, is a family-owned winery dedicated to making terroir-driven wines with a minimal intervention philosophy.  Third-generation vigneron Santiago Deicas uses a lo-fi approach to produce varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Tannat, Uruguay’s best known and most planted grape varietal.  After touring the vineyards and historical 18th-century cellar, we enjoyed a wine tasting led by one of Familia Deicas Winery’s sommeliers throughout a traditional Uruguayan 5-course luncheon in the winery’s farm-to-table restaurant (an addition to the winery in the past five years).

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 2 – some of the winery’s vineyards at Juanicó, Canelones

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 3 – the old winery building has been updated and is the main production facility

“Familia Deicas Winery is one of the most prestigious and trailblazing producers in Uruguay today, combining both a long history and a groundbreaking approach to modern Uruguayan wine.  The Deicas family took over the historic 18th century estate and winery of Establecimiento Juanicó in 1979, a brand which continues to be a market leader in Uruguay today, and in 2000 launched their own luxury brand, Familia Deicas, with a focus on premium wines with low intervention winemaking and at the forefront of terroir explorations around Uruguay.  Bodega Familia Deicas has 60 hectares [150 acres] of vineyards spread around some of the most diverse sites in Uruguayan viticulture.  With a major focus on terroir exploration, Familia Deicas no doubt has the most far-reaching diversity of vineyard sites in Uruguay, and some of the most exciting vineyard sites too.  The vineyard management is focused on sustainable viticulture with some organic practices.” — https://southamericawineguide.com/winery/winery-filters/winery-style/iconic/familia-deicas-winery/

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 4 – the barrel room in the winery building

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 5 – this historic building was remodeled into the winery’s restaurant

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 6 – the front dining room hosted a wedding party’s celebratory luncheon

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 7 – the selection of wines that we tasted and drank with our luncheon

“The family vineyards are situated on the southern coast of Uruguay with a strong Maritime influence from the Atlantic Ocean.  The cooling effect from the sea helps retain freshness and acidity in the wines.  The main red grape varieties cultivated are Tannat, which has established itself as Uruguay’s signature grape, alongside the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot.  They also produce Malbec in Argentina’s high-altitude Luján de Cuyo region of Mendoza.  Winemaker, Santiago Deicas, is the third generation in the family business, crafting terroir-driven wines using stainless steel and high-grade French oak in the family’s modern cellar.” — www.obrienswine.ie/pages/familia-deicas

Winemaker Sanrtiago Deicas explained his winemaking philosophy: “We have learned that genuine wines need a natural interpretation of the terroir.  We cannot give a sense of place if we look for perfection, because we can be tempted to use makeup.  With every new vineyard, we experiment with several microvinifications, and the conclusion is always the same: the best wines are those where the place dominates the winemaker.  It seems that this approach is easy, but it actually demands much more knowledge and work!”

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 8 – our luncheon’s first course was caviar on sour cream atop a “bird’s nest”, accompanied by their sparkling wine, Cuvee Castelar Extra Brut, made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 9 – our luncheon’s soup course was a celery velouté that tasted like potato and leek soup, accompanied by their Preludio Gran Vino Blanco 2022 Barrel Select made from 95% Chardonnayand 5% Albarino

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 10 – our luncheon’s next course was a crostini topped with sauteed mushrooms and onions, on a base of light hummus, accompanied by their Preludio Gran Vino de Corte 2018 Barrel Select wine made from a blend of Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Marselan, and Petit Verdot

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 11 – a piece of contemporary art in the historic restaurant building, adjacent to our table which overlooked the vineyards

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 12 – our luncheon’s main course was a grilled New York strip steak with a barbeque-style sauce and potatoes, accompanied by their Massimo Deicas Tannat 2018 (100% Tannat)

Familia Deicas Winery, Canelones, Uruguay, photograph # 13 – our luncheon’s dessert was a chocolate torte atop raspberry puree with whipped cream, accompanied by their dessert wine, Liccor de Tannat Vintage 2020 (a port style wine, fortified with their winery-distilled grappa, a liqueur that is not for sale, separately; thus there is no sugar added to the wine)

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Drink local: Annapolis Valley Wines, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 1 – the first winery we visited in the valley was one of the oldest in the region, the premier estate of Domaine de Grand Pré

One wouldn’t think the weather on Nova Scotia Island would support table wine grape growing (and vinification into wines).  So, we were surprised to find out that we could join a small group and drive 90-minutes northwest from Halifax to the Annapolis Valley region (around the town of Wolfville), which is the center of the grape vineyards and wine producing region for the province.  The cultural landscape of the area was praised by UNESCO as “…an exceptional example of the adaptation of the first European settlers to the conditions of the North American Atlantic coast” when it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012.  The region has been producing wine grapes since the 1600s.  Our ship’s Beverage Manager personally recommended visits to Domaine de Grand Pré and Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards in the Annapolis Valley, which became our day’s itinerary.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – note the netting on some of the vines at Domaine de Grand Pré – to protect the grapes from birds

Our first visit was to the winery Domaine de Grand Pré, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage site.  After a wine tasting in the tasting room (and retail area for the winery), we went up to an outdoor patio and enjoyed a multicourse lunch prepared by the winery’s excellent restaurant, Le Caveau.  

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – the wine production area at Domaine de Grand Pré is on the lower level of the main building, with the tasting room and retail area above (on the ground level)

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 – the wines we tasted at Domaine de Grand Pré

A glass of Nova Scotia Brut lead off our tasting, followed by two white varietals, both produced from hybrid varietals suited to the climate (L’Acadie Blanc and Tidal Bay), one local indigenous red varietal field blend, and a desert “ice cider”, Pomme d’Or (made by pressing the juice of naturally frozen apples and then fermenting it, like traditional apple cider) – ice cider is similar in production to ice wine, using the juice of frozen fruit.  Domaine de Grand Pré focuses on growing hybrid grapes created to withstand Nova Scotia’s harsh winters – mostly developed in the labs of the Canadian wine institute.  Note that Tidal Bay wines are described as the very essence of Nova Scotia in a glass – the wines are described as “cool, crisp, lively and aromatic” and are considered the perfect pairing for Nova Scotia seafood.

“Since 2011, Nova Scotia wineries have been producing the region’s signature white wine style known as Tidal Bay.  Tidal Bay is an appellation of origin wine, created by the Winery Association of Nova Scotia (WANS) in the model of fine European wine regions.  To create a wine labelled as Tidal Bay, not only must the wineries adhere to a long list of production standards and craft their wines from a curated list of varietals, each wine must pass the judgement of a panel of experts to ensure the wine has the characteristic aromas and flavours of Nova Scotia’s terroir.  The wines must be “fresh, crisp, dryish, still, white with a bright, ‘signature Nova Scotia’ aromatic component”, and the results have been phenomenal!” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

What is an appellation?  “In the wine world, the term ‘appellation’ refers to both a geographical boundary and a set of rules governing the production of wines within that region.  In most New World regions, the appellation simply ensures the grapes are sourced from the place indicated on the label.  Tidal Bay, like its European counterparts, is much more than simply an assurance of the source of grapes.  Tidal Bay is governed by a strict set of rules of production including the grapes allowed to make Tidal Bay and the techniques used to produce it.” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the vista of the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy, viewed from a view park developed by the local community

After our delicious luncheon at Domaine de Grand Pré, with some paired wines, we had a tour of the vineyards and then walked north across the east-west road at the northern edge of the property to enter the view part overlooking the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy.  The UNESCO World Heritage Site is called “Le Paysage deGrand Pré” (The Landscape of Grand Pre2).

“Designated as the first rural historic district of national significance in 1995 and placed on Canada‘s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2004, the landscape of Grand Pré and bodies, the spirit of collaboration that enabled both its creation, and it’s ongoing preservation.

“Nomination Grand Pré, the group, which prepared the UNESCO submission, wanted to create a lasting legacy for the communities of Grand Pré, North Grand Pré, Hortonville and Lower Wolfville.  Community residents chose as legacy the development of a viewing area overlooking this unique agricultural and symbolic landscape. 

“In 2011, and initiative led by several community members and supported by the government of Canada, the municipality of the County of Kings, businesses and individuals resulted in the acquisition of this property.  Thanks to a partnership between Parks Canada and Nomination Grand Pré, and through the direction provided by members of the legacy committee, this view park was developed an open to the public in 2012.” – signage at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Le Paysage de Grand Pré

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 — Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, the second winery we visited, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown

The second winery we visited, Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown.  In a typical year, the area is well-suited for growing European varietals that do well in cooler climates, such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir.  Note that 2023 was a disaster weather-wise, and many wineries in the region lost most, if not all, of their European-varietal grapes.  The vines were damaged, and it will be next year before the vineyards can be evaluated as to their ability to produce a new harvest, or if the vines must be replaced.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – the vineyards at Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards overlook the Bay of Fundy

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 – one of the wines we tasted at Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 1 – Halifax, Nova Scotia’s capital and the largest municipality in the province, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history; its 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Harbor walk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history.  One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon.  A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature.  The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.

Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000.  K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq.  “Halifax is a navy creation.  It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard.  At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – located on the Atlantic Ocean, the port of Halifax is North America’s first inbound and last outbound gateway to Europe

“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax.  For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade.  Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada. 

“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic.  He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.

“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria.  He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – a statue of an immigrant family in the Halifax waterfront near the cruise terminals and the Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) is a reminder of much of the city’s roots as a Canadian center for immigration, especially for people leaving Europe and central Europe

Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 — located near downtown is the vibrant Halifax waterfront, surrounded by scenic views; buzzing with energy, the 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Halifax Harbourwalk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844)

The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax.  The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749.  The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Historic Properties are a collection of historic buildings on Halifax’s downtown and boardwalk

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – we passed by many interesting stores and restaurants in the historic section of Halifax’s downtown – here is “The Black Market Boutique” with psychedelic paintings and signage

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 — Halifax is an eclectic mix of old and new that is a delight for both locals and tourists

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the Halifax Public Library, with its stunning modern exterior design, is one of the standout public buildings in Halifax

More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture.  Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books.  Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – one of the five corners of the “star”-shaped Halifax Citadel that forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site .  The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856.   Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — sitting in the shadow of The Citadel is the Town Clock, a three-story octagon tower atop a one-story white building; the clock overlooks most of downtown Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – the north end of the Halifax waterfront and interior neighborhoods were developed more recently and have a variety of contemporary architecture buildings

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 — the entrance to the Halifax Public Gardens, opened in 1867, that emanates a delightful Victorian character

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 14 – the gazebo and one of many statues in the Halifax Public Gardens

Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character.  Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand.  The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 15 – the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian era public garden that was designated as a Canadian National Historic site in 1984

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 16 – another interesting mix of the old and the new, downtown

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 17 – three stunning, well preserved historic buildings with vibrant retail stores today (pun intended, as “Venus Envy” is a sex shop)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 18 – these former warehouses on the waterfront were developed by Historic Properties into warehouses containing restaurants, retail shops and entertainment facilities

“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city.  The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies.  This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”

On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea.  We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 19 – no visit to the Halifax waterfront is complete without a take-away order of some form of the national food, poutine; it is regarded as one of the most quintessential Canadian dishes

“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy.  It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.