Fort-de-France, Martinique (2025)

Posted on March 20, 2025 by richardcedwards

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 1 – the skyline of downtown Fort-de-France is dominated by the church spire of Cathedrale Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Cathedral)

We sailed overnight from Bequia to Fort-de-France, Martinique’s capital. With its narrow streets and iron grill-worked balconies, the downtown area recalls New Orleans, Louisiana, U.S.A. or Nice, France. This distinctly French island is a full-fledged department of France, with members in parliament and the senate. Thus, everyone speaks French, as well as a rapid-fire Creole. The island features a varied landscape, from quiet beaches to lush rain forest to imposing Mont Pelee. Not surprisingly, the shopping in Fort-de-France has a decidedly Gallic flair. As part of the EU (European Union), the local currency is the Euro. The name Martinique is probably a corruption of the Indian name Madiana (“Island of Flowers”) or Madinina (“Fertile Island with Luxuriant Vegetation”), as reputedly told to Christopher Columbis by the local Caribs in 1502.

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 2 – Musèe D’Archièologie Prècolombienne (Museum of Pre-Columbian Archaeology)

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 3 — the façade of the downtown post office (PTT – telegraphs, postal service, and telephones)

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 4 — Bibliothèque Schoelcher (Schoelcher Library) was built and featured at the Paris Exposition of 1889, disassembled and shipped to Martinique

Honoring the memory of Victor Schoelcher, a pivotal figure in freeing numerous individuals from the slave trade in the 19th century, Bibliothèque Schoelcher (Schoelcher Library)’s elaborate design was built and featured at the Paris Exposition of 1889, then shipped to Martinique piece-by-piece. One of the city’s most beautiful buildings, its design by Henri Picq features a Byzantine dome, Egyptian lotus-petal columns, turquoise tiles and other ornate features. Listed as an historical monument in 1993, it currently houses more than 300,000 volumes.

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 5 – the façade of Bibliothèque Schoelcher (Schoelcher Library)

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 6 – an older building in downtown Fort-de-France

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 7 — Préfecture de la Martinique (the Government House of Martinique) was the first reinforced concrete building when completed in 1928

“The original Carib Indian population disappeared after Europeans arrived, partly as a result of disease, conflicts with the Europeans, and assimilation. In 1658 French settlers on the island numbered about 5,000. Slaves brought from Africa added a further ethnic component. Today people of mixed European and African ancestry account for more than nine-tenths of the population, but the island’s economy is largely controlled by the small proportion of people of European descent. A small fraction of the population is descended from labourers brought from the Indian subcontinent. A Creole similar to that spoken in Haiti is commonly heard, but French is the official language.” — www.britannica.com/place/Martinique

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 8 – the church steeple of Cathedrale Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Cathedral) was inspired by the Eifel Tower in Paris, France

Cathedrale Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Cathedral) was constructed beginning in 1875 (opening in 1895) and serves as the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Fort-de-France. Inspired by the Eiffel Tower, it is the seventh cathedral on the site since 1657, with the previous churches lost to natural disasters. Known for its Roman-style steeples and Gothic Revival architecture, the light-peach building is a unique feature in the Fort-de-France skyline.

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 9 — Cathedrale Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Cathedral) reflected in a modern glass building across the street

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 10 – the interior of Cathedrale Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Cathedral)

“The interior of the church is noted for its grand organ, ornate walls, beautiful stained-glass windows and balustrade of iron. Located underneath the choir loft is a crypt containing the tombs of several previous governors of Martinique.” — Wikipedia

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 11 – one of the beautiful stained-glass windows inside Cathedrale Saint-Louis (Saint-Louis Cathedral)

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 12 — iron balconies evoke memories of New Orleans and the South of France

Iron balconies evoke memories of New Orleans and the South of France (e.g., Nice). Snippets of conversations in melodious Patois and French fall pleasingly on the ear. The central park, Place de la Savane (Savane Park), contains a statue of Empress Josephine (Napoleon’s wife) who was born on the island.

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 13 — the legacy of France – Liberte, Egalite, and Fraternite – inscribed on the façade of Espace Culturel Camille Darsières (the Camille Darsières Cultural Center)

Fort-de-France, Martinique, photograph # 14 — Hotel de Ville (City Hall) is now Theatre Césaire – it hosts live performances instead of being the seat of the city government

The Hotel de Ville (City Hall) is now Theatre Césaire and hosts live performances instead of being the seat of the city government. Aimé Fernand David Césaire, born in Basse-Pointe in 1913 was a Francophone and French poet, author and politician from Martinique. He considered himself of Igbo descent from Nigeria and considered his first name Aimé a retention of an Igbo name. In 1936, Césaire began work on his long poem, “Cahler d’un retour au pays natal”, a vital and powerful depiction of the ambiguities of Caribbean life and the culture in the New World and is widely regarded as “one of the founders of the negritude movement in Francophone literature”. He was also an accomplished playwright. His works have been translated into many languages.

Reykjavík, Iceland (2023)

Posted on August 14, 2023 by richardcedwards

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 1 – the modern residential district on the eastern side of the city, with the new cruise ship harbor in the center and the surrounding mountains in the background; Reykjavík is the country’s capital and largest city

Reykjavík, on the coast of Iceland, is the country’s capital and largest city. It’s home to the National and Saga museums, tracing Iceland’s Viking history. The striking concrete Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Church and the rotating Perlan glass dome (south of downtown) offer sweeping views of the sea and nearby hills. Exemplifying the island’s volcanic activity is the geothermal Blue Lagoon spa, near the village of Grindavik.

Iceland is about the size of the states of Kentucky or Maine in the United States with a population of only 372,000, of which 232,000 live in greater Reykjavík – about half of those live in the city limits. Despite being a small city on the world scale, Reykjavík, punches way above its weight due to its capital city status. With almost two-thirds of Iceland’ residents living in the capital region, Reykjavík is one of the biggest small cities in the world. Unlike the Faroe Islands and Greenland, Iceland is very volcanically active. Most people in the country live along the coast — the country has a 1,000-mile (1,600 kilometers) coastline. There is a lot of geothermal activity on the island and Reykjavík is heated by a government operated geothermal water system. Said to be inspired by the steam rising from hot springs, early settlers named the bay Reykjavík, which means “Smoky Bay” in Old Norse. At latitude 64-08 degrees North, just below the Arctic Circle (66-30 degrees North), Reykjavík is the world’s northernmost capital city.

For additional perspective on Reykjavík and the natural wonders of Iceland, please see our previous blog posts from August 2019, “Reykjavik, Iceland” and “The Golden Circle, Iceland

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 2 – on the 3D topographic map in City Hall, Reykjavík can be seen in the foreground, to the right of the vertical black line, with the city area painted orange (and closer to the front edge is the Keflavik Airport neighborhood); said to be inspired by the steam rising from hot springs, early settlers named the bay Reykjavík, which means “Smoky Bay” in Old Norse

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 3 – a view of the city from Perlan, Iceland’s iconic attraction and nature museum, that offers panoramic views, a nature exploratorium with interactive exhibits, and a unique glacier experience

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 4 – a symbol of the city of Reykjavík, the Sun Voyager is a sculpture by Jón Gunnar Árnason, located on the coastal road next to Faxaflói Bay; Sun Voyager is described as a dreamboat, or an ode to the Sun — the artist intended it to convey the promise of undiscovered territory, a dream of hope, progress and freedom

“Although Iceland is relatively young (it has only been a country since 1944, when it gained independence from Denmark), the country boasts one of the world’s most celebrated cultures. Settled by Scandinavian immigrants (known as Vikings) and British slaves between the ninth and 10^th centuries, Iceland continues to celebrate its Viking customs and traditions through the retelling of folktales about elves and trolls.” — https://travel.usnews.com/Reykjavik_Iceland/

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 5 — the Harpa Concert Hall, an architectural masterpiece with a façade made with 714 glass panels, each a different shape and equipped with LED lights, is the winner of the prestigious Mies van de Rohe Award; it is the home of the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera, among others

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 6 – a view of the small boat marina behind the Harpa Concert Hall

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 7 – a brightly painted, well maintained fisherman’s home, dating back to the 1800s, in the oldest neighborhood in the city

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 8 — Landakotskirkja, formally Basilika Krists konungs — Cathedral of Christ the King — is located in the western part of the city and is the sole cathedral of the Catholic Church in Iceland; on its dedication in 1929, it was the largest church in Iceland

In 2011, Reykjavík became the first non-native-English native city to be designated a UNESCO City of Literature. The recognition highlighted the city’s “outstanding literary history”, including the incredible importance of the Norse sagas and the central role literature plays in today’s modern city.

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 9– Kænugarður (the Icelandic word for Kyiv) or Kyiv torg, Kyiv Square, located near the Russian embassy, was renamed as such by the City of Reykjavík in 2022 in honor of the Ukranian capital city noting, “With this decision by the city, a clear message is being sent of solidarity with the residents of Ukraine who are fighting for their liberty and independence.”

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 10 — Dómkirkjan í Reykjavík, Reykjavík Cathedral, is the seat of the Bishop of Iceland and mother church of the Evangelical Lutheran Church of Iceland, as well as the parish church of the old city center and environs; it is located at Austurvöllur, and next to it is [see next photograph]

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 11 – Alþingishúsið, the Parliament House, is a classical 19th century building, located next to the Reykjavík Cathedral; the building was designed by Ferdinand Meldahl and built using hewn Icelandic dolerite from 1880 to 1881

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 12 — a view from Hallgrímskirkja’s (the towering, white Lutheran church — see photograph # 14) viewing platform of Lake Tjörnin (The Pond) with City Hall on the upper right side of the lake

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 13 – a view of City Hall from Lake Tjörnin (The Pond) with a pedestrian bridge across Lake Tjörnin

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 14 — Hallgrímskirkja (Church of Hallgrimur), a towering, white Lutheran church, is Reykjavík’s most striking landmark; we went up to the top where there is an interior viewing platform with 360-degree views of the city (several of these photographs were made while on the viewing polatform)

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 15 — Pride colored stripes adorn the pavement of a major shopping street in the heart of the city

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 16 – al fresco dining is popular during the long daylight days of summer

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 17 – the city’s favorite hot dog stand serves many varieties of hot dogs, but the favorite is the simple hot dog in a bun with mustard

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 18 – the Reykjavík Art Museum is the largest visual art institution in Iceland; it occupies three locations in Reykjavík – the old harbor warehouse, Hafnarhús (pictured here), Kjarvalsstaðir by Klambratún and Ásmundarsafn in Laugardalur

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 19 – a mosaic mural (this photograph is of the right-side panel of 2 panels) from 1972 adorns the side of a block-long building near the harbor

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 20 – this statue (“Founder Statue”) in the center of the city honors Ingólfur Arnarson, the Norseman who founded Reykjavík in 874 A.D.; the initial statue was sculpted by Einar Jónsson in 1903 in Rome, Italy, and the final statue was erected in 1924, after it was cast in 1907 – the delay was due to challenges raising the funds in Denmark for the gift to the city of Reykjavík

Reykjavík, Iceland, photograph # 21 — the Harpa Concert Hall with its LED lights lighted inside the differently shaped 714 glass panels; this photograph was made at dusk at 10:55 p.m.

Eat local: Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, Belgium (2023)

Posted on July 2, 2023 by richardcedwards

Looking towards Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal (OLV, or Cathedral of Our Lady) from the medieval residential quarter near the Schelde River, Antwerp, Belgium, the second largest city in the country, largest port, and the “capital of cool”

Our current trip began with a return visit on the ship to Antwerp, Belgium, following up on our first visit with the ship in 2015. [See our previous blog posts on the city, beginning with “Antwerp, Belgium”, posted on May 28, 2015.]. We were fortunate, again, to dock in the city center at the Cruise Terminal, built as an annex to Het Steen (Steen Castle), a medieval fortress dating back to the 13th century on the banks of the Schelde River. Situated in the north of Belgium, Antwerp lies in the Dutch-speaking region of the country – one of three regions of the country — and is regarded as the unofficial capital of Flanders (the Dutch-speaking region of Belgium). “Antwerp (Antwerpen/Anvers in Dutch/French) is Belgium’s second city, biggest port and capital of cool. It has long been a powerful magnet for everyone from fashion moguls and club queens to art lovers and diamond dealers. In the mid-16th century, it was one of Europe’s most important cities and home to baroque superstar painter Pieter Paul Rubens – as many a museum will regularly remind you. Despite many historical travails thereafter, and severe WWII bombing, Antwerp retains an intriguing medieval heart with plenty of café-filled cobbled lanes, a riverside fortress, and a truly impressive cathedral. Today, however, Antwerp’s top drawcards are its vibrant fashion and entertainment scene, along with its startling architectural and cultural contrasts.” – www.LonelyPlanet.com

While not pictured here, one of the fun things we did with our 10-year-old grandson was to visit Chocolate Nation, the largest Belgian Chocolate Museum in the world. Located near the Central Station (railway station), it’s about a 25-minute walk through the city from the Cruise Terminal. The first Belgian chocolate factory opened in Antwerp in 1831 and there are now several leading manufacturers in the city. We also learned that Belgium now produces about 10% of the world’s chocolates annually. The museum is very interactive and brings the history and manufacture of chocolate to life through interactive exhibits, ending with a taste of 10 different liquid chocolates – ranging from white chocolate to milk chocolate, the newly developed ruby chocolate, and then dark chocolates, our favorites being the blends from Madagascar and Brazil (we bought chocolate bars in the shop to enjoy on our sailing).

The 16th century City Hall in front of Grote Markt, one of the most beautiful town squares in Europe, Antwerp, Belgium

The legend of Silvisu Brabo, founder of Antwerp, and the hero whose statue is in the Brabo Fountain in front of City Hall and the Grote Markt: “Silvius Brabo is an Antwerp folklore figure. According to the legend, he would have been a Roman soldier who killed the giant Druon Antigoon, chopped off his hand, and threw it into the Scheldt. According to that same legend, Antwerp was in past centuries terrorized by the giant named Druon Antigoon, which forced all navigators to pay tolls before they were allowed to go over the Scheldt River. If they refused Antigoon cut their hands off and threw them in the river.

“The Roman legionnaire Silvius Brabo came over one day and rebelled against the giant. He fought with Antigoon, killed him, then cut off his hand and threw the body into the river. By “throwing the hand” Antwerp would have come to her name. Throwing means Werpen in Flemish and Ant could refer to Antigoon or to the dialect word of Hand. Also, a 15th-century chronicle claimed that the province of Brabant would also owe its name to Brabo.

“[T]he most famous image of Brabo is the Brabo Fountain on Antwerp’s Grote Markt in front of the town hall. It depicts Brabo on top of a fountain while disposing of Antigoons’s hand. The headless corpse of Antigoon is also seen pictured underneath the platform. The statue was designed by Jef Lambeaux in 1887 and has since become the official symbol of the city of Antwerp.” — www.amazingbelgium.be/2015/09/silvius-brabo-founder-of-antwerp.html

“The Antwerp Hand” statue. featuring the Roman legionnaire Silvius Brabo who killed the giant Druon Antigoon, chopped off his hand, and threw it into the river Scheldt, in front of City Hall, Antwerp, Belgium

“Antwerp has long been at the centre of things. Belgium’s handsome northern city grew wealthy on the profits of its port, trading since the 16th century in glittering diamonds, priceless works of art and the spices and spoils of assorted empires. The Port of Antwerp remains extraordinary: a Blade Runner-esque noirscape of industrial architecture, where the rusted hulks of old trade ships sit side-by-side with space-age modern buildings, presided over by a steel canopy of creaking girders and looming cranes…

“Today, most visitors arrive in Antwerp by train, with the city’s heritage on show in the cavernous marble hallways of Antwerpen-Centraal railway station, a masterwork of art nouveau architecture. This style crops up throughout the city, most notably in the fashionable district of Zurenborg, where eye-catching houses are testament to a boom during the late 1800s. Antwerp is no stranger to fortune, of course; before that, in the 16th and 17th centuries, the city was famed for the riches of its citizens. A wealth of grand Flemish buildings survives from this era, including the home of Peter Paul Rubens, the masterly painter whose work remains the pride of Antwerp…

“The character of the city also reveals itself through food: even with a galaxy of Michelin stars, the favoured local dish remains, reassuringly, a steaming pot of moules with a bucket of frites. This unpretentious spirit pervades the city, whether you’re dining by lamplight in the rarefied surrounds of the historic stock exchange or rubbing shoulders with the bright young things of Belgium’s most vibrant nightlife scene.

“Antwerp’s broad, leafy boulevards and outdoor cafes might evoke those of Paris, but in the cobbled, 16th-century alleyways, Flemish townhouses and sprawling, retrofuturist port, Antwerp shows its true face: one which is all its own.” — https://www.nationalgeographic.co.uk/travel/2022/09/a-guide-to-antwerp-belgiums-striking-second-city

The exterior of Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, Belgium; for born Antwerpenaar, the name of this establishment brings visions of moules frites (mussels and fries) served on a red-and-white checked tablecloth to their minds

“Local legends are there to be cherished, whether they are strictly true or not. So, did an Antwerp Cathedral priest really patrol the neighbourhood in a red hat? Or does Grand Café De Rooden Hoed actually owe its name to the striking red roof tiles…? It is certainly true that the painter Quinten Matsijs (1466-1530) lived in the building; the ironwork above the well in front of the cathedral was wrought by him. And we also know that as far back as 1750 the oldest hostelry in Antwerp was used as a coaching inn. Today you can still order a soep van de koetsier (a coach driver’s soup), a reminder of the days when carriages stopped off at the inn, the drivers almost becoming part of the family. If you are a born Antwerpenaar, the name of this establishment will bring visions of mussels and fries served on a red-and-white checked tablecloth to your mind.

“But times have changed. This brasserie has been owned since May 2013 by Hans Lachi and Cas Goossens, who quickly put their own stamp on the business. Hans manages the kitchen and is responsible for the commercial side, whereas Cas keeps an eye on the guests, showing his public what good service really means. Whether it’s pouring out two bottles of beer at the same time or whisking up a sabayon with Liefmans Fruitesse at the table, it’s all in a day’s work for this dyed-in-the-wool waiter. There’s plenty of room. The indoor area seats 130 customers, the terrace adds a further 30 seats, and that’s before you consider the historic vaulted basement, where large groups are regularly hosted and parties go off with a bang. The atmosphere is different wherever you go in the building. If you are seated at the back you enjoy a view of the picturesque Handschoenmarkt and the splendid cathedral entrance. At the front, you overlook the bustling car-free Oude Koornmarkt, where you will never be short of a place to eat or drink. You’ll also find an oyster bar and an upstairs room in De Rooden Hoed.” — www.beertourism.com/blogs/news/behind-the-scenes-at-grand-cafe-de-rooden-hoed