Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 — the winery is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center
On our last day in the Mendoza wine regions, we drove south to a relatively newly developed area, comprising five wineries in the Clos de Los Siete group. Each winery is owned independently, but they collectively produce one estate wine, Clos de Los Siete. Our visit was to Bodega DiamAndes, where we had an outstanding tour led by the estate’s executive chef, Santiago Orozco Russo, followed by a delicious and creative luncheon with paired estate wines at the estate’s restaurant, DIAMS Bar & Bistrot. We found out that the restaurant, DIAMs, was awarded the gold medal for “Best Winery Restaurant in Argentina 2021” by the Great Wine Capitals. The winery itself is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center. The winery produces Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay and Viognier as well as red blends and a rose. DiamAndes has been an organic certified vineyard since 2022. Natural fertilizers and biodegradable products, both environmentally friendly, are used, creating more stable and balanced vineyards with a significant improvement in the quality of the grapes.
“A play on the word “diamante,” this ultra-modern Uco Valley winery’s name is inspired by the snow-capped peaks among which it sits, at 1,000 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Andes. Part of the prestigious Clos de los Siete group, the estate’s 130 hectares were acquired by the Bonnie family (of Château Malartic-Lagravière and Château Gazin Rocquencourt, in Bordeaux) in 2005, with a gravity flow winery opening in 2009 designed by Eliana Bórmida and Mario Yanzón, a duo renowned for their ‘landscape architecture’ incorporating the Mendoza landscape with sympathy and flair. The circular barrel cellar (full of premium French oak barrels) and the magical crypt (used to store and age bottles) are particular highlights, not to mention the culinary prowess of the award-winning restaurant.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/explore/Vineyards/Argentina/Mendoza/Bodega-DiamAndes-SA.html
Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the beautifully designed winery complex (one of the two buildings is pictured here), utilizing gravity flow, opened in 2009Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the extensive estate vineyards are close to the foothills of the Andes Mountains, which gave the winery part of its name (diamANDES)
The winery’s philosophy relates to its exceptional location in the Uco Valley at an elevation of 1,100 meters (3,609 feet): “Nothing exceptional can be achieved without an exceptional terroir”.
Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – stainless steel fermentation tanks in the gravity flow winery complexBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – with two labels (one for domestic consumption, and one for export), our first wine was a 2022 L’Argentin de Malartic Malbec RoseBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – our amuse bouche was a delicious mushroom puree empanada in beetroot pastry on a base of mased avocado
“The Franco-Argentine blend is also evident at DIAM’s Bar & Bistrot, a high-end restaurant mixing Argentine produce with a touch of French gastronomic flair. Led by chef Santiago Orozco Russo, the team creates original and perfectly crafted dishes sourced from the organic garden and local suppliers. The restaurant offers four menus a year, each specially designed to highlight the season and a label from the DiamAndes range. The restaurant cellar also houses a collection of older vintages.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/Bodega-Diamandes.html
Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – our first course was a rainbow of fruits and vegetables served creatively on a broken “pizza crust”-shaped ceramic plateBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our second wine was a 2019 DiamAndes de Uco SyrahBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – our second course was confit rabbit terrine, pistachio and figs, caramelized onions gel, cherries, grapes, wild fennelBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – our next wine was 2020 DiamAndes de Uco MalbecBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 11 – for our main course we chose the beef loin & demi-glace, sage butter, Andean potatoes, truffle mayonnaise, chips and sproutsBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 12 – our dessert wine was a 2022 DiamAndes Perilta ChardonnayBodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 13 – for dessert we had mascarpone and apricot mousse, purple corn crumble, yogurt & matcha sauce
Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 – a beautiful trellis in between the vineyards welcomed us to the estate and, neaby, the vegetable garden (for the restaurant) and the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil
On our second day, we began in Luján de Cuyo at Bodega El Enemigo, where we had a brief tour and then enjoyed an excellent luncheon with wine pairings at the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil. “El Enemigo is the passion project of two Argentinian friends that has earned a cult following, dreamed up during a twilit sojourn along the River Thames in London in 2009. Alejandro Vigil is a soil expert and celebrated winemaker who for years has headed operations at Bodega Catena Zapata, the estate owned by Adrianna Catena’s father, the legendary Nicolás, a party in honour of whom they were both attending that opportune night. Adrianna is a historian currently studying for her doctorate at Oxford University. El Enemigo – the enemy – was created to produce a wine that would respect history and traditions whilst simultaneously rejecting the status quo… The original goal was to produce cool climate, high altitude Cabernet Franc (the vineyards are up to 1,470 metres above sea level), based on a mutual love of retro Pomerol-style Bordeaux – Cheval Blanc in particular. It may not have been a fashionable move at the time, but this is where the duo’s shared rebellious streak kicked in. Today, their Cabernet Franc is peppered with a hint of Malbec, displaying the sharpness and tannic grip they both craved. Also very popular is the ‘Gran Enemigo’ Cabernet Franc-dominated blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. There are also single varietal and single plot examples, displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils. Techniques meld old with new: fashionable concrete eggs are used in conjunction with 100-year-old Alsatian oak foudres shipped in from Italy before being re-toasted and reassembled, as per tradition.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/21-30/el-enemigo-wines.html
Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 — the vegetable garden for the restaurantBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – estate vineyardsBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – our lunceeon wine pairing at the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil: 2021 El Enemigo Mendoza Chardonnay, 2018 El Enemigo Mendoza Malbec, and 2018 El Enemigo Mendoza Cabernet Franc
After a brief walk through the estate, we enjoyed an excellent multi-course luncheon at the estate’s acclaimed restaurant, Casa Vigil, accompanied by wine pairings selected from Bodega El Enemigo. We found this review on the website for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Discovery: [Casa Vigil] “is a feast for the senses: sit outside in its verdant rural surrounds on a beautiful day, a glass of homegrown wine in your hand. ‘Mi casa es tu casa’ is the bodega’s motto, an ethos apparent in the team’s generous hospitality – the only difference being, the food isn’t this good at home. A worthy entry point is the five-course lunch with paired wines, which, following guests being treated to a tour of the vineyard, showcases the likes of flavour-packed ribs, ossobuco, cacao ravioli and gnocchi expertly prepared using the finest of local produce. The accompanying bins are all carefully selected to enhance each course. Return for a 10-course dinner extravaganza – and be sure to leave room for the seriously impressive cheese board.” — www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/Establishments/Argentina/Mendoza/Casa-El-Enemigo.html
Bodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – a starter course of beef carpaccioBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – a starter course of homemade gazpachoBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 — a starter course of a beef empanadaBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 — a starter course of homemade gnocchiBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – a main course of grilled salmon trout with garden vegetablesBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – pairing very nicely with the 2018 El Enemigo Mendoza Malbec was a main course of grilled beef tenderloinsBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 11 – an ice cream dessert with pistachio macaroonsBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 12 – a form of a pavlova with home-grown strawberriesBodega El Enemigo and Casa Vigil (restaurant), Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 13 – a pear-centric desert with poached pears, pear “soup” and pear ice cream
Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 1 – one of North America’s largest open-air public markets, its lively atmosphere, authentic character and wide selection of fresh, local produce and specialties from Quebec Province and abroad always make for a pleasant – and appetizing – outing
We were advised not to miss Montréal’s excellent “farmers’ market”, the Jean-Talon Market, that first opened in 1933 in the Little Italy neighborhood in northeast Montréal. “The multicultural flavours and sights of the Jean-Talon Market have been attracting crowds to Little Italy since 1933. One of North America’s largest open-air public markets, its lively atmosphere, authentic character and wide selection of fresh, local produce and specialties from here and abroad always make for a pleasant – and appetizing – outing.
True to its culture and spirit, the Jean-Talon Market showcases local and ethnic eats and a diverse array of merchants. Fruit, vegetable and flower stalls line the walkways alongside a tasty array of specialty shops that feature spices, oils, cheeses, meats, pastries and other exquisite Québec products. Butchers and fishmongers enthusiastically hawk their wares, always ready to share a recipe or recommend something new.
Open year-round, the market changes with the seasons. In the spring, it blooms with a bouquet of annuals, perennials and seeds while the sugary scent of maple treats tickles the nostrils and the sweet tooth. Summertime starts with fresh asparagus and strawberries, then matures into a cornucopia of fresh produce picked daily. Come fall, the market is abuzz with the richness of the harvest, while in winter, it lights up with the festive spirit, Christmas trees, wreaths and all. More than just a place to pick up groceries, the Jean-Talon Market also offers culinary demonstrations, gourmet discovery circuits, workshops and more.” — www.mtl.org/en/what-to-do/food/jean-talon-market-mtl
Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 2 – in addition to fresh food products for sale, there were several establishments preparing foods for those who wanted to “dine” at the market – here fresh French-style (Brittany) buckwheat crêpes are being prepared (both savory and sweet)
“A crêpe or crepe is a very thin type of pancake. Crêpes are usually one of two varieties: sweet crêpes or savory galettes. They are often served with a wide variety of fillings such as cheese, fruit, vegetables, meats, and a variety of spreads. Crêpes can also be flambéed, such as in crêpes Suzette.” — Wikipedia
Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 3 – the Intrepid Explorer beginning to place our order for fruits and vegetables to purchase and then carry back to our kitchen on the ship for some home-cooked meals in our apartmentShop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 4Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 5Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 6 – different colored cauliflowers and Romanesco made up brightly colored “Boquet de fleurs”
“Romanesco broccoli is an edible flower bud of the species Brassica oleracea, which also includes regular broccoli and cauliflower. It is chartreuse in color and has a form naturally approximating a fractal. Romanesco broccoli has a nutty flavor and a firmer texture than regular broccoli when cooked.” – Wikipedia
Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 7 – maple sugar syrup and candies were the sole products that this local producer had for sale at his standShop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 8Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 9 – we bought some of the homemade raviolis, filled with cheese and pepper (upper right-hand side of the photograph), and enjoyed them for dinner – delicious!
Arendal, Norway, photograph # 1 – we sailed into the city center of Arendal through the fjord leading into Pollen Harbor from the Skagerrak Sea – the strait between Norway and Denmark
O.K., Disney “Frozen” movie fans – what city in the world was the “Kingdom of Arendelle” named after (the capital of the Kingdom and the site of the Royal Palace of Anna and Elsa)? Hint – what’s the title of this blog? You got it! Arendal, Norway, our port after Oslo. The real city of Arendal, with a population of about 40,000, is about 250 kilometers (150 miles) south of Oslo, on the coast of the Skagerrak Sea – the strait between Norway and Denmark — [and is located a short distance northwest of Skagen, Denmark, which we visited a few weeks ago and published several blogs posts about]. Surrounded by woods and hills and fjords, the beautiful coastal town is a popular summer holiday spot for many Norwegians and visitors from other countries. The area’s most famous resident was playwright (and one of the founders of modernism in theatre, “the father of realism”) Henrik Ibsen – who today is the second most produced playwright, worldwide, after William Shakespeare of England.
Arendal, Norway, photograph # 2 – a vista point (on a long hike) view of the city and the long Fjord we sailed through from Oslo and the Skagerrak to dock at the pier just to the left of the top of the photograph
The town of Arendal dates back to the 1400s, when it was a loading place for timber and, over time, the area built up with shipping, shipbuilding and the timber trade, as well as mining and ironworks. In 1880, Arendal was Norway’s biggest port in terms of tonnage handled. The four-story town hall is one of the largest wooden buildings in Norway. The historic battery, overlooking the harbor, was used during the war that forced Denmark to cede Norway to Sweden in 1814. Today the area has small boat manufacturing, mechanical industry, electronics industry, as well as one of the world’s largest silicon carbide refining plants; about 40 per cent of the population work in the service sector.
Arendal, Norway, photograph # 3 – the harbor in the center of the city, Pollen Harbor, is filled with boats and visitors in the summerArendal, Norway, photograph # 4 – when we docked, we were treated to a 20-minute singing and dancing performance of songs from the Disney movie “Frozen” by local youths – on the natural rock “ramparts” across from the pier (this photograph was taken from our apartment’s balcony – center stage “seats”, as it were!)Arendal, Norway, photograph # 5 — the majestic Trinity Church, completed in 1888, with its tower rising 285 feet (87 meters) above Arendal; a 3,900-pipe organ, built by the German company Werkstätte für Orgelbau Mühleisen, is the fourth-largest church pipe organ in NorwayArendal, Norway, photograph # 6 – there are many 18th century wooden homes in the historic center of the city, named Tyholmen; this one, the largest in the city and completed in 1815 as a private residence, was built by a wealthy merchant and became the old town hall (Norwegian: Rådhusbrygga) from 1844 to 2005; it is now open for visitorsArendal, Norway, photograph # 7 – a beautiful 19th century stone home adjacent to the older, white wooden homes in the historic Tyholmen districtArendal, Norway, photograph # 8 – a coat of arms of Norway found on one of the old buildings in TyholmenArendal, Norway, photograph # 9 – a local fishing boat at the end of Pollen Harbor was selling its catch (local crabs and the stone crab claws) – see photograph # 10Arendal, Norway, photograph # 10 – a local fishing boat’s catch for sale — local crabs and the stone crab clawsArendal, Norway, photograph # 11 – we enjoyed some of the local stone crab claws, local fish soup and a pile of fresh small shrimps (reker) with mayonnaise at the best seafood restaurant in town, FiskebryggaArendal, Norway, photograph # 12 – Fiskebrygga seafood restaurant (above) also had a fish market where we bought local salmon filets and small shrimps (reker) in the shell for a “home cooked” dinner in our apartment on the ship; for dessert, we had some chocolates procured from the homemade chocolate store/factory, Heimdal Chokolade, Norway’s smallest chocolate factory
Some local Norwegian inspiration for the Disney 2013 movie “Frozen”:
Finding Arendelle – In 2013 the Disney movie, “Frozen” became the highest-grossing animated film of all time. An instant Disney classic, this movie and its sequel were both heavily influenced by Norwegian nature, culture, and traditions. Most of the places depicted in the Frozen franchise are also based on actual Norwegian destinations. With locations spread all across the country, there’s a lot of ‘Frozen inspiration’ to encounter on our current itinerary. For a start, the Kingdom of Arendelle, was named after our current port of Arendal. However, the design came from Bergen, an upcoming port in Norway’s western fjords. Specifically, the wharf of Bryggen, which is extremely colorful and provides a modern take on the historical roots of Norwegian architecture. Although the majority of Arendelle was inspired by Bergen, there are a couple structures throughout the fictional kingdom that are reminiscent of locations in other parts of Norway. For example, the castle where Elsa and Anna grew up is inspired by the Akershus Fortress in Oslo. Part of what makes Arendelle so beautiful is that it is located at the base of a fjord, but not just any fjord. The fjord that frames Arendelle was, in fact, inspired by Eidsfjorden, one of Norway’s most beautiful fjords, and the location for our inaugural visit to Nordfjordeid. Together, these real Norwegian locations served as the collective inspiration behind the Disney classic, and perhaps [our] own Itinerary Committee, so it seems. – from our ship’s daily newspaper
Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 1 — at the recommendation of the Intrepid Explorer’s brother, our family group dined at the seafood specialty restaurant across from the Astrup Fearnley Museet (Astrup Fearnley Museum)
Our only dinner in Oslo was at the Michelin Guide’s recommended seafood restaurant, Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, located by the Aker Brygge Marina waterfront on the Oslo fjord, directly before the pedestrian bridge leading to the Astrup Fearnley Museet (Astrup Fearnley Museum). Recommended by the Intrepid Explorer’s brother (and accompanied by him, his twin Millennial daughters and a niece), the restaurant’s name means “sea store” and their menus are fittingly seafood based. Their shellfish is from the nearby dock. The restaurant prepares what is reported to be the best seafood in Oslo and their location is wonderful, with views out over the Sound. Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet is owned by successful Norwegian restauranteur Bjørn Tore Furset. In addition to the restaurant, they also have a market that sells the very best quality mussels, oysters, and shellfish. We enjoyed an outstanding 5-course tasting menu that was served leisurely, with wine pairings, over three hours. We highly recommend the restaurant.
Tjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 2 — the restaurant is across a small channel and connected by a pedestrian bridge to the very modern, private contemporary art museum, Astrup Fearnley Museet (Astrup Fearnley Museum), resides in an arresting, silvered-wood building designed by Renzo Piano, with a sail-like glass roof that feels both maritime and at one with the Oslofjord landscapeTjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 3 – our first course was Rossini Caviar – on top of the local baby Lyngren shrimps (Norwegian: reker) atop a lettuce gazpacho and lightly toasted crackers of homemade breadTjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 4 – scallops from Hitra with sea asparagus, tarragon oil and sea buckhorn-mango dressingTjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 5 – Jasper grilled asparagus with 18-month aged ham, wild garlic puree, quail egg and Hollandaise sauceTjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 6 – pan-fried catch of the day fish, organic oyster mushrooms, oak leaves and Yuzu Beurre Blanc sauceTjuvholmen Sjømagasinet, Oslo, Norway, photograph # 7 – our final course (dessert) was a chocolate and passion fruit mousse on chocolate sponge and passion fruit granache
Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 1 – the waterfront entrance to the #1 rated seafood restaurant in Rostock, Borwin Hafenrestaurant, where we enjoyed an excellent luncheon
After eating typical German fare in Warnemünde at a casual restaurant along the scenic Alter Strom canal the night before (potato pancakes, pork goulash and veal wiener schnitzel), we checked with our local guide and selected the top-rated seafood restaurant in Rostock for lunch the next day with some friends. We were not disappointed at all – in fact, our luncheon at Borwin Hafenrestaurant in Rostock, along the riverfront, was one of the best meals we’ve had in the past three weeks on this journey across northern Europe.
The restaurant is known for its large selection of fresh fish and seafood. The day we ate there, we had a choice of 9 types of fresh fish, some prepared as filets, and others as grilled whole fish (for one or more diners). We also enjoyed some German white wines by the carafe.
Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 2 – the marina on the Unterwarnow River in front of the restaurant with some apartment buildings in the distanceBorwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 3 – an appetizer of salmon two ways, sashimi with garnish and tartareBorwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 4 – The “piece de la resistance” was the giant seafood platter (shared by 2 people) with grilled calamari, grilled octopus, sauteed scallops, prawns in their shell, cold shrimps, and a half lobsterBorwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 5 – beautifully prepared filet of perch on a bed of lightly creamed spinach and mashed potatoes, accompanied by a roasted tomatoBorwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 6 – a desert of fresh local strawberries with whipped cream (schlagsahne) and vanilla ice creamBorwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 7 – a wall mural for the restaurant at the back of their parking lot, with local waterfront-facing homes visible, above
Set inside a corner of the historic Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, the highly rated restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza was decorated in a modern artistic style by a noted Polish stage designer, in the heart of the Gothic valuts and old castle walls and windows, Szczecin, Poland; we enjoyed a luncheon of local Szczecin/Polish favorites
Our guide on a walk around Stare Miasto (the old city) in Szczecin, Poland, highly recommended the restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza in a corner of the inner courtyard of the Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle (Polish: Zamek Książąt Pomorskich w Szczecinie). The next day we dropped by for an excellent luncheon. We saw some items that we thought might be local specialties and then worked with our waiter (who spoke excellent English, as well as German and his native Polish) to adjust our selections so that everything we ordered was a local Szczecin/Polish favorite dish. When we left the restaurant, we noticed a signboard outside with a note that the restaurant was highly rated by Gault Millau, the French restaurant guide to dining in many countries, similar to the Michelin Guide – an honor well deserved. We also learned later that the restaurant’s chef is a specialist in Polish herring and the restaurant is noted for its broad offering of many styles of herring preparations. We highly recommend dining at Na Kuncu Korytarza.
We ate by a window in the main dining room of restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza, Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, Szczecin, Poland, with contemporary artwork on the walls by Ryszard Kaji – one of the best Polish stage designers, along with an over 100-year-old elliptical mirror with inscriptions of guests from the artistic world
“The interior is decorated in an artistic style with a Gothic vault and walls by Ryszard Kaji – one of the best Polish stage designers. The restaurant consists of two parts: the main part, which can accommodate 45 people, with an over 100-year-old elliptical mirror with inscriptions of guests from the artistic world and lodges for 5-8 people in the corridor section, also for 45 people. The restaurant serves Polish and continental dishes. The domain of this place is also unusual dishes from herring collected in the “Collection of herring eaters”. — https://visitszczecin.eu/en/gastronomy/217-na-kuncu-korytarza-restaurant
Our first course was a selection of 4 herring preparations – starting at the top, and going clockwise: mustard sauce, spicy vegetables, an Indian curry, and local “blueberry” preserves, restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza, Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, Szczecin, PolandOur second course was a delicious homemade beetroot borscht with meat (minced pork with onions) dumplings, restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza, Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, Szczecin, PolandOne of our main courses was 6 pierogies filled with cottage cheese and groats (buckwheat, or Kasha) with a very rich champagne mushroom cream sauce, a specialty of restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza, Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, Szczecin, Poland; note that pierogies are considered to be the national dish of Poland (and are also very popular in UkraineOur other main course was sliced roast duck breast in a delicious sauce with very light potato dumplings and a delicious side dish of red cabbage and sliced cherry tomatoes, restaurant Na Kuncu Korytarza, Pomeranian Dukes’ Castle, Szczecin, Poland
We enjoyed a delicious, typical Danish luncheon in the glass enclosed front dining room at Brøndums Hotel restaurant, Skagen, Denmark
The Intrepid Explorer’s bother, who lives in Norway, took the ferry from Norway to the Jutland Peninsula (arriving at a ferry port south of Skagen, Denmark) the day before we arrived, so that he and his wife could be our “local” guides around Skagen and the Jutland Peninsula. After walking the city and visiting the Skagens Museum in the morning [see our previous blog post, “Skagen, Denmark”], they guided us on a very short walk to the Brøndums Hotel restaurant (adjacent to the Skagens Museum). We had a very relaxing and quite typical Danish lunch, along with typical refreshments (Aalborg akvavit and local Bryghus beer). In our previous blog post we noted that the Brøndums Hotel was a “hangout” for many of the artists of the Danish Impressionist painters’ group (the so called “Skagensmalerne”) and the owner of the hotel was one of the five founders of the Skagens Museum in 1908. The Brøndums Hotel restaurant is very highly recommended.
The Intrepid Explorer had fresh, seasonal white asparagus with Hollandaise sauce and baby shrimps, Brøndums Hotel restaurant, Skagen, Denmark
“Throughout the history of Brøndums Hotel the food has been a central focal point. The artist enjoyed it and described it exalted terms to their friends at the Copenhagen Academies. Ever since, the food has been essential to a successful stay at Brøndums Hotel.
“Respecting the history the classic Danish cuisine is still in focus at Brøndums Hotel. On the menu you will to this day find dishes that are based on Madam Brøndum’s recipes dating back to the 19th century. You will hardly find another place in Denmark where the waiters are required to carve, flambée and filet tableside as they are at this beautiful seaside hotel. At lunchtime open sandwiches has a central position. The chefs create exciting and tasteful open sandwiches with great respect for traditions.
“At Brøndums Hotel you can enjoy open sandwiches or one of our classic Danish lunch courses. With your lunch you are able to order our own lovely beer from Skagen Bryghus and refreshing aquavit from Aalborg akvavit among other.” — www.broendums-hotel.dk/en/restaurant/
Your blogger had an excellent fish stew with homemade bread and fresh local butter accompanied by the recommended beer from Skagen Bryghus and a refreshing Aalborg Dill Akvavit, Brøndums Hotel restaurant, Skagen, DenmarkOne of our party had fried plaice with fresh salad smørrebroød (an open face sandwich onm rye bread), Brøndums Hotel restaurant, Skagen, DenmarkOne of our party had fresh baby shrimps with mayonnaise, fresh salad and a hard-boiled egg smørrebroød (an open face sandwich on rye bread), Brøndums Hotel restaurant, Skagen, DenmarkThe main building of Brøndums Hotel, with the restaurant facing the photographer (across the street), Skagen, Denmark
We walked through Wallanlagen Park which is adjacent to the Stadtgraben River in the heart of the city, just north of the Schnoor quarter, Bremen, Germany
After our time touring and shopping in the Schnoor quarter (the historic 14th – 15th century old district) of Bremen, Germany – see our previous blog post, “Bremen, Germany” – we walked north to Wallanlagen park, alongside the Stadtgraben River in the heart of the city. The Stadtgraben River was originally fed from Bremen’s main river, the Weser River, and formed a moat protecting the old city, along with what was originally a wooden wall surrounding the city, that was later replaced by a stonework wall.
From a distance we had a nice reflection view of the Mühle am Wall (windmill), the last remaining example of the 12 flour windmills that once sat in a ring around Bremen, Germany; it was constructed in 1833, but burned in 1897 and was rebuilt in 1899The flour mill in Wallanlagen Park, adjacent to the Stadtgraben River in the heart of the city, dates to 1833 and was originally a working mill; today it is the last remaining example of the 12 windmills ringing the city and houses a café, Bremen, GermanyHauptbahnhof is the main railway station in Bremen, Germany, and was constructed from 1885 – 1889 in the Neo-Renaissance style; it is a railway hub for both regional and local transportThe interior of Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, Germany, with red and white checkered tablecloths and a Bavarian setting
For dinner we chose the Restaurant Edel Weiss in the Hotel Edel Weiss, near the above pictured Hauptbahnhof (the main railway station) in Bremen. The restaurant features Bavarian and Austrian dishes. We enjoyed a leisurely dinner with very authentic regional dishes that were served in large portions – it was a challenge to finish them all (and we skipped dessert). We tried several different local beers, your blogger’s favorite being the tall glass in the photograph below, a dark wheat beer.
Three beers with some rye bread and mushroom spread as starters to welcome us to Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, GermanyLocal cheese topped with onions and a warm, soft pretzel as an appetizer, Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, GermanyWhite sausages with a warm, soft pretzel as an appetizer, Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, GermanyClassic pork schnitzel with a lemon wedge and lingonberry sauce, Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, GermanyPork schnitzel with sauteed cremini mushrooms, Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, GermanyRoast pork slices in a beer sauce with a giant potato dumpling and red cabbage, “a la Aunt Mary”, Restaurant Edel Weiss, Bremen, Germany
Looking towards Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal (OLV, or Cathedral of Our Lady) from the medieval residential quarter near the Schelde River, Antwerp, Belgium, the second largest city in the country, largest port, and the “capital of cool”
Our current trip began with a return visit on the ship to Antwerp, Belgium, following up on our first visit with the ship in 2015. [See our previous blog posts on the city, beginning with “Antwerp, Belgium”, posted on May 28, 2015.]. We were fortunate, again, to dock in the city center at the Cruise Terminal, built as an annex to Het Steen (Steen Castle), a medieval fortress dating back to the 13th century on the banks of the Schelde River. Situated in the north of Belgium, Antwerp lies in the Dutch-speaking region of the country – one of three regions of the country — and is regarded as the unofficial capital of Flanders (the Dutch-speaking region of Belgium). “Antwerp (Antwerpen/Anvers in Dutch/French) is Belgium’s second city, biggest port and capital of cool. It has long been a powerful magnet for everyone from fashion moguls and club queens to art lovers and diamond dealers. In the mid-16th century, it was one of Europe’s most important cities and home to baroque superstar painter Pieter Paul Rubens – as many a museum will regularly remind you. Despite many historical travails thereafter, and severe WWII bombing, Antwerp retains an intriguing medieval heart with plenty of café-filled cobbled lanes, a riverside fortress, and a truly impressive cathedral. Today, however, Antwerp’s top drawcards are its vibrant fashion and entertainment scene, along with its startling architectural and cultural contrasts.” – www.LonelyPlanet.com
While not pictured here, one of the fun things we did with our 10-year-old grandson was to visit Chocolate Nation, the largest Belgian Chocolate Museum in the world. Located near the Central Station (railway station), it’s about a 25-minute walk through the city from the Cruise Terminal. The first Belgian chocolate factory opened in Antwerp in 1831 and there are now several leading manufacturers in the city. We also learned that Belgium now produces about 10% of the world’s chocolates annually. The museum is very interactive and brings the history and manufacture of chocolate to life through interactive exhibits, ending with a taste of 10 different liquid chocolates – ranging from white chocolate to milk chocolate, the newly developed ruby chocolate, and then dark chocolates, our favorites being the blends from Madagascar and Brazil (we bought chocolate bars in the shop to enjoy on our sailing).
The 16th century City Hall in front of Grote Markt, one of the most beautiful town squares in Europe, Antwerp, Belgium
The legend of Silvisu Brabo, founder of Antwerp, and the hero whose statue is in the Brabo Fountain in front of City Hall and the Grote Markt: “Silvius Brabo is an Antwerp folklore figure. According to the legend, he would have been a Roman soldier who killed the giant Druon Antigoon, chopped off his hand, and threw it into the Scheldt. According to that same legend, Antwerp was in past centuries terrorized by the giant named Druon Antigoon, which forced all navigators to pay tolls before they were allowed to go over the Scheldt River. If they refused Antigoon cut their hands off and threw them in the river.
“The Roman legionnaire Silvius Brabo came over one day and rebelled against the giant. He fought with Antigoon, killed him, then cut off his hand and threw the body into the river. By “throwing the hand” Antwerp would have come to her name. Throwing means Werpen in Flemish and Ant could refer to Antigoon or to the dialect word of Hand. Also, a 15th-century chronicle claimed that the province of Brabant would also owe its name to Brabo.
“[T]he most famous image of Brabo is the Brabo Fountain on Antwerp’s Grote Markt in front of the town hall. It depicts Brabo on top of a fountain while disposing of Antigoons’s hand. The headless corpse of Antigoon is also seen pictured underneath the platform. The statue was designed by Jef Lambeaux in 1887 and has since become the official symbol of the city of Antwerp.” — www.amazingbelgium.be/2015/09/silvius-brabo-founder-of-antwerp.html
“The Antwerp Hand” statue. featuring the Roman legionnaire Silvius Brabo who killed the giant Druon Antigoon, chopped off his hand, and threw it into the river Scheldt, in front of City Hall, Antwerp, Belgium
“Antwerp has long been at the centre of things. Belgium’s handsome northern city grew wealthy on the profits of its port, trading since the 16th century in glittering diamonds, priceless works of art and the spices and spoils of assorted empires. The Port of Antwerp remains extraordinary: a Blade Runner-esque noirscape of industrial architecture, where the rusted hulks of old trade ships sit side-by-side with space-age modern buildings, presided over by a steel canopy of creaking girders and looming cranes…
“Today, most visitors arrive in Antwerp by train, with the city’s heritage on show in the cavernous marble hallways of Antwerpen-Centraal railway station, a masterwork of art nouveau architecture. This style crops up throughout the city, most notably in the fashionable district of Zurenborg, where eye-catching houses are testament to a boom during the late 1800s. Antwerp is no stranger to fortune, of course; before that, in the 16th and 17th centuries, the city was famed for the riches of its citizens. A wealth of grand Flemish buildings survives from this era, including the home of Peter Paul Rubens, the masterly painter whose work remains the pride of Antwerp…
“The character of the city also reveals itself through food: even with a galaxy of Michelin stars, the favoured local dish remains, reassuringly, a steaming pot of moules with a bucket of frites. This unpretentious spirit pervades the city, whether you’re dining by lamplight in the rarefied surrounds of the historic stock exchange or rubbing shoulders with the bright young things of Belgium’s most vibrant nightlife scene.
The exterior of Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, Belgium; for born Antwerpenaar, the name of this establishment brings visions of moules frites (mussels and fries) served on a red-and-white checked tablecloth to their minds
“Local legends are there to be cherished, whether they are strictly true or not. So, did an Antwerp Cathedral priest really patrol the neighbourhood in a red hat? Or does Grand Café De Rooden Hoed actually owe its name to the striking red roof tiles…? It is certainly true that the painter Quinten Matsijs (1466-1530) lived in the building; the ironwork above the well in front of the cathedral was wrought by him. And we also know that as far back as 1750 the oldest hostelry in Antwerp was used as a coaching inn. Today you can still order a soep van de koetsier (a coach driver’s soup), a reminder of the days when carriages stopped off at the inn, the drivers almost becoming part of the family. If you are a born Antwerpenaar, the name of this establishment will bring visions of mussels and fries served on a red-and-white checked tablecloth to your mind.
“But times have changed. This brasserie has been owned since May 2013 by Hans Lachi and Cas Goossens, who quickly put their own stamp on the business. Hans manages the kitchen and is responsible for the commercial side, whereas Cas keeps an eye on the guests, showing his public what good service really means. Whether it’s pouring out two bottles of beer at the same time or whisking up a sabayon with Liefmans Fruitesse at the table, it’s all in a day’s work for this dyed-in-the-wool waiter. There’s plenty of room. The indoor area seats 130 customers, the terrace adds a further 30 seats, and that’s before you consider the historic vaulted basement, where large groups are regularly hosted and parties go off with a bang. The atmosphere is different wherever you go in the building. If you are seated at the back you enjoy a view of the picturesque Handschoenmarkt and the splendid cathedral entrance. At the front, you overlook the bustling car-free Oude Koornmarkt, where you will never be short of a place to eat or drink. You’ll also find an oyster bar and an upstairs room in De Rooden Hoed.” — www.beertourism.com/blogs/news/behind-the-scenes-at-grand-cafe-de-rooden-hoed
A local draft IPA-style beer from De Koninck Brewery at Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, Belgium; the brewery is open for tours where they help visitors learn the history of Belgian beers, ending with a tasting of Antwerp city beersAn appetizer of shrimp and cheese croquettes, Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, BelgiumA good friend who has worked in Antwerp recommended the restaurant for its moules frites (steamed mussels – here with pastis and vegetables – and French fries), Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, BelgiumShrimp scampi (with lots of garlic), Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, BelgiumLobster Américaine, Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, BelgiumA Madonna and child decorating the corner of an apartment building across the street from Grand Café Rooden Hoed, Antwerp, BelgiumThe magnificent, soaring Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal’s (OLV, or Cathedral of Our Lady’s) spire, Antwerp, BelgiumA shopping street in the old city, Antwerp, Belgium16th century guildhalls adjacent to City Hall in Grote Markt in the heart of the old city, Antwerp, BelgiumHet Steen (Steen Castle), a medieval fortress dating back to the 13th century on the banks of the Schelde River where we were docked, with the Cruise Terminal located in a modern annex to the Castle, Antwerp, Belgium
Where in the world is Riccardo? 