On our last day in the Mendoza wine regions, we drove south to a relatively newly developed area, comprising five wineries in the Clos de Los Siete group. Each winery is owned independently, but they collectively produce one estate wine, Clos de Los Siete. Our visit was to Bodega DiamAndes, where we had an outstanding tour led by the estate’s executive chef, Santiago Orozco Russo, followed by a delicious and creative luncheon with paired estate wines at the estate’s restaurant, DIAMS Bar & Bistrot. We found out that the restaurant, DIAMs, was awarded the gold medal for “Best Winery Restaurant in Argentina 2021” by the Great Wine Capitals. The winery itself is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center. The winery produces Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay and Viognier as well as red blends and a rose. DiamAndes has been an organic certified vineyard since 2022. Natural fertilizers and biodegradable products, both environmentally friendly, are used, creating more stable and balanced vineyards with a significant improvement in the quality of the grapes.
“A play on the word “diamante,” this ultra-modern Uco Valley winery’s name is inspired by the snow-capped peaks among which it sits, at 1,000 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Andes. Part of the prestigious Clos de los Siete group, the estate’s 130 hectares were acquired by the Bonnie family (of Château Malartic-Lagravière and Château Gazin Rocquencourt, in Bordeaux) in 2005, with a gravity flow winery opening in 2009 designed by Eliana Bórmida and Mario Yanzón, a duo renowned for their ‘landscape architecture’ incorporating the Mendoza landscape with sympathy and flair. The circular barrel cellar (full of premium French oak barrels) and the magical crypt (used to store and age bottles) are particular highlights, not to mention the culinary prowess of the award-winning restaurant.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/explore/Vineyards/Argentina/Mendoza/Bodega-DiamAndes-SA.html
The winery’s philosophy relates to its exceptional location in the Uco Valley at an elevation of 1,100 meters (3,609 feet): “Nothing exceptional can be achieved without an exceptional terroir”.
“The Franco-Argentine blend is also evident at DIAM’s Bar & Bistrot, a high-end restaurant mixing Argentine produce with a touch of French gastronomic flair. Led by chef Santiago Orozco Russo, the team creates original and perfectly crafted dishes sourced from the organic garden and local suppliers. The restaurant offers four menus a year, each specially designed to highlight the season and a label from the DiamAndes range. The restaurant cellar also houses a collection of older vintages.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/Bodega-Diamandes.html
Leaving Bodega Zuccardi mid-day, we drove north through the Uco Valley to reach Bodega La Azul, one of the smallest wineries in the Uco Valley and completely family owned. While the family originally grew grapes and sold to some other wineries, they began making wine in 2003 and today produce about 120,000 75-ml bottles (10,000 cases of 12-bottles). We stopped for their locally popular (and “famous”) five-course Argentian parilla-style luncheon, paired with their own wines. In Argentine cuisine, the word parilla refers to three things: the barbecue grill, the metal grate positioned over the grill’s wood and ember-filled firebox, and steakhouses that serve barbecued meat. The restaurant was completely full – mostly locals, particularly small to large groups of young men, and, separately, young women, with a scattering of couples and a few families with younger children. With endless pours of each of the three wines paired with the five-course lunch, we could see (and hear) how popular their late afternoon luncheon was — whether inside the open-air restaurant, or on the veranda, all overlooking the Andes Mountains and their vineyards. This was probably the most authentic “local” Argentine meal that we had in Mendoza and was tasty and a lot of fun.
On our second day, we began in Luján de Cuyo at Bodega El Enemigo, where we had a brief tour and then enjoyed an excellent luncheon with wine pairings at the estate’s restaurant, Casa El Enemigo Vigil. “El Enemigo is the passion project of two Argentinian friends that has earned a cult following, dreamed up during a twilit sojourn along the River Thames in London in 2009. Alejandro Vigil is a soil expert and celebrated winemaker who for years has headed operations at Bodega Catena Zapata, the estate owned by Adrianna Catena’s father, the legendary Nicolás, a party in honour of whom they were both attending that opportune night. Adrianna is a historian currently studying for her doctorate at Oxford University. El Enemigo – the enemy – was created to produce a wine that would respect history and traditions whilst simultaneously rejecting the status quo… The original goal was to produce cool climate, high altitude Cabernet Franc (the vineyards are up to 1,470 metres above sea level), based on a mutual love of retro Pomerol-style Bordeaux – Cheval Blanc in particular. It may not have been a fashionable move at the time, but this is where the duo’s shared rebellious streak kicked in. Today, their Cabernet Franc is peppered with a hint of Malbec, displaying the sharpness and tannic grip they both craved. Also very popular is the ‘Gran Enemigo’ Cabernet Franc-dominated blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Merlot. There are also single varietal and single plot examples, displaying the best of the Mendoza and Uco Valley soils. Techniques meld old with new: fashionable concrete eggs are used in conjunction with 100-year-old Alsatian oak foudres shipped in from Italy before being re-toasted and reassembled, as per tradition.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/21-30/el-enemigo-wines.html
After a brief walk through the estate, we enjoyed an excellent multi-course luncheon at the estate’s acclaimed restaurant, Casa Vigil, accompanied by wine pairings selected from Bodega El Enemigo. We found this review on the website for the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, Discovery: [Casa Vigil] “is a feast for the senses: sit outside in its verdant rural surrounds on a beautiful day, a glass of homegrown wine in your hand. ‘Mi casa es tu casa’ is the bodega’s motto, an ethos apparent in the team’s generous hospitality – the only difference being, the food isn’t this good at home. A worthy entry point is the five-course lunch with paired wines, which, following guests being treated to a tour of the vineyard, showcases the likes of flavour-packed ribs, ossobuco, cacao ravioli and gnocchi expertly prepared using the finest of local produce. The accompanying bins are all carefully selected to enhance each course. Return for a 10-course dinner extravaganza – and be sure to leave room for the seriously impressive cheese board.” — www.theworlds50best.com/discovery/Establishments/Argentina/Mendoza/Casa-El-Enemigo.html
On our first trip to Buenos Aires in 2016 we did the high-end touristy dinner at the very highly-rated, traditional Argentinian grilled beef restaurant, Don Julio, which was excellent. This trip we decided to try something different, and based on several recommendations, we got a reservation for us and three good friends for a tasting-menu asado dinner at the highly-regarded (and Michelin-recommended) Fogón Asado in downtown Buenos Aires. Asado is a multifunctional term that describes the method of barbecuing meat in South America, the meat itself, and the social event associated with the meal. Much like an American barbecue, asado has a unique cooking method, cultural traditions, and specialty sauces that accompany it. Asado takes its origin from the Spanish word asar, meaning to grill.
“At Fogón you will experience an up-close and exclusive view of the asado craft prepared right in front of you on our custom-made grill. Our specially designed Asado tasting menus showcase the best Argentine ingredients and local grass-fed beef in new and creative preparations, perfectly paired with wine varieties from Argentina’s oldest wineries… Our Asado Tasting Menu consists of 9 courses of dishes that elevate the Asado experience to new heights, bringing you closer to the essence of cooking with fire. The menu is entirely prepared on our state-of-the-art custom grill in front of guests, bringing you on an intimate, communal culinary journey. Our optional wine pairings are inspired by and in line with the flavors of our kitchen.” — https://fogonasado.com/
“If the idea of a dining experience based around a traditional grill concept sounds appealing, this unusual restaurant in the Palermo district will definitely fit the bill but you’ll need to book ahead! Attention to detail is to the fore here, and the subdued lighting and open brickwork ensure that all the focus is on the large grill at the centre of the dining room. The dining experience, based around an 8-[or 9=] course menu (fire-roasted aubergines, chorizo, morcilla, Provoleta cheese, a succulent glazed pork belly, pine cone-smoked “ceja” and ribeye), is both informative and interactive with constant communication between the grill chefs and guests, the majority of whom are tourists or groups of friends. Everything the chefs do is explained in detail, from the provenance of the wood used, the feed used for the cattle, the best accompanying salsas etc. A splendid and fun journey lasting over two hours across Argentina’s most popular culinary art form!” — https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/
For our wine pairings with dinner, the Intrepid Explorer and your blogger both chose the “Malbec Discovery” pairings, consisting of five top end Mendoza region Argentinian Malbecs:
Zuccardi Polígonos Malbec
Zuccardi Aluvional Malbec
Catena Adrianna Vineyard Designated Malbec
Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino (see photograph # 15 and its caption, along with the following text)
Zuccardi Malamado Malbec (a port style wine)
Note that a week later, on an overland journey to the Mendoza region for a few days with friends from the ship, we did visit two of these three wineries: Zuccardi and Catena Zapata, where we greatly enjoyed their wines, again.
“The epic tale of the noble Malbec grape is like no other, and the label for Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino pays tribute to the variety’s history in France and its rise in Argentina. Four female figures embody different landmarks in the history of the grape. Eleanor of Aquitaine represents the birth of Malbec. She is a strong, Old-World presence, lingering at the bridge in Cahors, where Malbec came into its own. Next, the Immigrant symbolizes the movement to the New World and the unknown explorers and adventurers who connected Europe with the Americas. Phylloxera personifies the death of Malbec in the Old World, which enabled its rebirth in the new. Finally, there is Bodega Catena Zapata, represented by Adrianna Catena, who depicts birth, earth, and motherhood, sharing the riches of the New World. Today, the Catena family’s fourth generation leads the high-altitude renaissance in Argentina. We are returning Malbec to the sky… where it belongs. No matter what the vintage, this wine is really more than 100 years old. It represents a family’s journey to produce an Argentine Malbec that can stand with the great wines of the world.” — https://catenazapata.com/malbec-argentino.php
After our morning guided walk with a local award-winning photographer in the old San Telmo neighborhood (see our previous blog post), we walked slightly northeast to a beautifully restored and commercialized neighborhood along the Rio de la Plata, Puerto Madero. Puerto Madero is a revamped dockside area. Its converted redbrick buildings contain upscale steakhouses popular with tourists and business lunchers. Sleek skyscrapers house multinational corporations and high-value apartments. Trails loop around several lakes at the wildlife rich Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, which draws families and joggers. Spanning the docks, Puente de la Mujer is a graceful suspension bridge.
We met some friends for a late luncheon at a Michelin-recommended Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant in Puerto Madero, along the main street, Juana Manso, in the Los Molinos Building. It is also one of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants (for South America); here’s their write-up: “The name and décor suggest Japan, but the menu is pure Nikkei, a delicious combination of Peruvian and Japanese flavours. Low lighting, palm trees and stylish partitions set the mood for a romantic meal created by Peruvian chef Eddie Castro, although lunchtime attracts a business crowd. Reserve a seat at the sushi bar for a close-up of the swift knifework. House specialties include smoked octopus tiradito, scallop and shrimp ceviche in wasabi sauce and Chirashi Causa (ceviche plus sashimi and prawns in an anticucho sauce).”
“Most notable among the area’s landmarks is the beautiful Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge) inaugurated in 1991. Designed by Spanish architect, Santiago Calatrava, the pedestrian bridge connects the east and west sides of the docks and rotates 90 degrees to allow boats to pass. Calatrava says the bridge represents a couple dancing tango, but the symbolism is so abstract that you can only conclude that ‘a couple dancing tango’ is an euphemism. It is one of the visual highlights in the neighborhood when illuminated at night.” — https://wander-argentina.com/puerto-madero-buenos-aires-modern-waterfront-neighborhood/
“Puerto Madero is Buenos Aires’ ritzy prototype of modernity in a city otherwise beloved for its history. The city’s newest district, with its sleek high-rises, perfect sidewalks and well-equipped parks is considered one of the most successful urban waterfront restoration projects in the world. The long, narrow dockside neighborhood adorned by young urban professionals now beats out the more aristocratic Recoleta as the most exclusive among Buenos Aires’ 48 neighborhoods.
“Walking around Puerto Madero it’s hard to believe that twenty-five years ago this area was nothing but an urban wasteland occupied only by empty warehouses, zombies and rats. The neighborhood contains 12,500 residents, and due to what seems like a new apartment tower every month, that number is growing rapidly. The latest Buenos Aires’ census indicates that it remains the city’s fastest growing neighborhood. Among tourists, the area is favored by business travelers – some of Buenos Aires’ most exclusive hotels are located here including Hilton Puerto Madero and the Faena Hotel+Universe, voted by Travel and Leisure magazine as one of the top 500 hotels in the world.
“While the apartment towers in the neighborhood are new, on the west docks are Puerto Madero’s original four-story red brick warehouses dating to 1900. More than a century ago these buildings served as offices and grain storage for shipping companies. The English-style warehouses now contain luxury offices, restaurants, a movie theater and a private Catholic university.” — https://wander-argentina.com/puerto-madero-buenos-aires-modern-waterfront-neighborhood/
Following two days at local wineries with luncheons, and a walk around the Punta del Salinas peninsula, on our third day we hired a guide and car and driver to spend the day mostly outside of the city proper. As noted in our previous blog post on the city, Punta del Este has expanded tremendously over the past 50 years and now the resort development stretches 40 miles [64 kilometers] along the Uruguayan coast. It includes dozens of neighborhoods and a few small towns, which are often described all together as “Punta”. We first headed west up to Casapueblo and then meandered back into the old town where we walked around and enjoyed an early luncheon at a fellow ship Resident’s favorite seafood restaurant on the waterfront, Isodora Restaurant, 21 la Galema, Punta del Este. The seafood was local and fresh and we surprised ourselves by ordering and enjoying pan-sauteed filets of the largest fresh water fish in the world, from the Amazon River, pirarucu (also known as the arapaima) — growing up to 400 pounds and eight feet long. After lunch, we drove up the eastern shore to the small fishing village of José Ignacio, passing the famous curvy, small bridge, Puente de la Barra, just before the scenic town of La Barra and on through Manantiales (with some shopping excursions in the towns…). On the return drive we spent an hour wandering through the fantastic building, art collection and sculptures at MACA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Atchugarry). Afterwards, we stayed in the city along the waterfront, about one mile from the tender pier, for a nice local seafood dinner, overlooking the western beach and the sunset.
We continued our exploration of Uruguayan wineries with a trip northwest of Punta del Este, where we were anchored, to the pioneering winery in the Sierra de la Ballena, Alto de la Ballena, located 15 kilometers (9 miles) from the coast. “Alto de la Ballena is a small winery that defined new directions in Uruguayan viticulture, beginning its plantations in 2001. Located in the Sierra de la Ballena, 15 kilometers (9 miles) from the coast, it combines oceanic air and mountain soils. There are just over 8 hectares (20 acres) of Merlot, Tannat, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Viognier, for a limited production of high-quality wines. In his book “Uruguay, Unique Wines”, André Dominé says: ‘Any wine connoisseur notices at first glance that the Sierra de la Ballena is a special “terroir. In a sloping and unusually rocky terroir for Uruguay, this Boutique Winery produces wines that convince with their intensity and balance.’” — https://altodelaballena-com.translate.goog/?page_id=1117&lang=es&_x_tr_sl=es&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc
“In 1998, husband and wife Paula Pivel and Alvaro Lorenzo decided to establish a small winery in the department of Maldonado, in the southeastern region of Uruguay. With no experience other than being consumers of good wines, they set out to find a place that combined viticultural aptitude, beautiful landscapes, and a good location. The selection of the terroir, top-of-the-joy the topography, soil, and climate, was decisive to achieve excellent quality of grapes, essential in the production of high-end wines. Several months of searching, with advice and studies, bore fruit. In 2000, they were almost twenty-thin in the Whale’s Sierra, a few kilometers from the sea and Punta del Este, the main seaside resort in South America.
“The first vineyard planting was done in the spring of 2001, continuing in the following years until reaching 8 hectares (20 acres). The vineyards are made up of Merlot, Tannat, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Viognier. The first harvest was made in 2005 and the first wines were presented to the market in 2007. Alto de la Ballena wines are sold in specialized stores, gourmet spaces and in the best restaurants in Uruguay, mainly in Montevideo and Punta del Este. They are also present in Mexico, Brazil and Sweden and soon in the United States, Belgium, Switzerland and Argentina.” — https://altodelaballena-com.translate.goog/?page_id=1117&lang=es&_x_tr_sl=es&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc
Paula Pivel, one of the winery’s founders (with her husband) left a career in commercial banking. At the end of 2003, she left banking to dedicate herself to managing the winery on her property Alto de la Whale (Alto de la Ballena), for which she graduated as an oenologist from the National School of Viticulture.
Interesting fact: Uruguay and its vineyards are located at the same band of southern latitudes as the wine regions of Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Astralia and New Zealand. “Uruguay is located between 30- and 33-degrees South latitude, nestled between Brazil and Argentina. With coasts to the Atlantic Ocean and the Rio de la Plata, its topography is populated with undulating plains and low mountain ranges. Its temperate climate is very appropriate for growing grapes, as are the best wine-growing areas of the southern hemisphere (Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand, and Australia). With a winemaking tradition that dates to the 19th century, Uruguay is currently part of the group of countries producing fine wines and its insertion into the main high-demand markets is constant and growing. It is considered by many experts to be the wine boutique of South America. Alto de la Ballena is located in the southeast region, in the department of Maldonado, very close to the sea and Punta del Este, the most important tourist center in the country.” — https://altodelaballena-com.translate.goog/?page_id=1117&lang=es&_x_tr_sl=es&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc
At the winery’s panoramic viewpoint overlooking the vineyards, where we had our wine tasting and tapas luncheon, we learned about caviar in Russia and Uruguay and then had a caviar tasting. Sturgeon (fish) farming was begun in Uruguay by the Black River Caviar company on the Rio Negro (Black River) in 1995. That river was chosen for having high quality water at a good temperature – the best is 16-18 degrees C [61-64 degrees F]. The company needed permission from Brazil, Uruguay, and Argentina, to introduce new species for sturgeon farming on the river. Their sturgeon is from Russia and the company’s head of operations is Uruguayan, supported in the beginning by professionals from Russia. The initial import, almost 500,000 fish, spawned and then died. They needed to adjust the water temperature taken from the Baygorria dam lake with underground water that contained Nitrogen particles — that killed the entire harvest – but they solved the problem by letting the underground water pass through cages with broken stones in it.
Rodolfo Laporta, the regional sales manager for Black River Caviar, told us that, compared with Russian Osetra Caviar, the Black River Caviar finished caviar is as good. He noted that a Los Angeles chef said theirs is the 2nd best caviar in world, after Iran — better than Russia. We were told that it takes 7-9 years for maturation of female sturgeons. Male sturgeons are sold as eating fish. Female sturgeons at the age of 2 years go to a lake for 4 to 5 years, then back to be farmed in raceways on land. They constantly use gravity flow to change the water on the fish farm. They tag the fish to know their maturation in order to harvest each fish’s eggs at the maximum maturation for eating. We learned that 10-13 % of a female sturgeon’s body weight is its eggs. They harvest between 800-1,000 grams (up to 2+ pounds) per fish in eggs. The company’s business was set up for exports, mainly to the United States, Europe, and Australia – plus just a little business in South America.
Rodolfo told us that Black River Caviar’s fish farming technology, including endoscopy at 2 years of age for each fish, is leading-edge technology and now is in use at other sturgeon farms worldwide.
As noted in our previous blog post, our ship’s wine society had an excellent vineyard and winery tour at Bodega Garzón, a young wine and dining estate that is a 2-hour drive northeast from Punta del Este to Garzón in the Maldonado Department, northwest of the fashionable fishing village of José Ignacio. [See: https://richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com/2024/01/30/drink-local-bodega-garzon-garzon-maldonado-uruguay/ ]. The winery was voted New World Winery of the Year 2019 by Wine Enthusiast Magazine. For several years since 2018, Bodega Garzón has been voted into the top 5 of the World’s Best Wineries, the only Uruguayan winery to represent the country in the top 50 of 2021.
Following our morning tour, we were seated at a long table in the upper part of the large restaurant, overlooking the vineyards on one side and the outdoor “kitchen” with a large open-flame fire-pit and several grills where hot (and some flaming) wood coals were transferred periodically for cooking. “Sustenance comes courtesy of Patagonian superstar chef Francis Mallmann, whose penchant for open fire cooking adds a deliciously wild element to dining here. The 120-seat restaurant offers a series of menu options, all paired with the estate’s signature wines.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/1-10/bodega-garzon.html
Baba ghanoush is a Levantine appetizer consisting of finely chopped roasted eggplant, olive oil, lemon juice, various seasonings, and tahini. The eggplant is traditionally baked or broiled over an open flame before peeling, so that the pulp is soft and has a smoky taste.
Our luncheon’s first course — oops, not pictured 😦
— was a crispy potato [chip] with homemade sour cream and Polanco Caviar, accompanied by the estate’s Sparkling Blanc de Blanc.
“World-famous chef Francis Mallmann provided his advice to develop the open-flame cooking technique and develop a Market Menu. In a Market Menu, chefs only select the best products of the day or the season, using fresh, local, ingredients that reflect the spirit of each season and enhance the local flavours.” — — Bodega Garzon description of the Restaurant
Francis Mallmann is an Argentine celebrity chef, author, and restaurateur who specializes in Argentine cuisine, and especially in Patagonian cuisine with a focus on various Patagonian methods of barbecuing food. Mallmann is Argentina’s most famous chef known for his open-fire cooking. He currently runs a number of restaurants worldwide: Patagonia Sur (Argentina), Los Fuegos (Miami), Fuego de Apalta (Chile), 1884 Restaurant (Argentina), Garzón (Uruguay), Bodega Fuegos (Argentina), Orégano (Mendoza), and Mallmann on Chateau La Coste (France). He resides on La Isla, located in one of the remotest corners of Patagonia. Mallmann’s island is backed by jagged mountains. With no cellphone coverage or WiFi, it’s one of few places left on earth where disconnecting from the outside world is possible. He was featured in the ”Francis Mallman” episode of Chef’s Table on television that was first aired on April 26, 2015 (available on Netflix streaming).
The 2018 Balasto red wine is regarded by the estate’s wine maker as the best vintage since the winery’s first release of their top end wine in 2010. It is a Tannat blend, as is typical in Uruguay, with the addition of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merselan, and Merlot. Balasto, the wine, is named after the granite rock that forms the literal foundation of the winery and the estate. “The ballast soil (balasto) at Bodega Garzón is decomposed granite rock with excellent drainage and minerality. It is ideal to provide the complexity, energy and vibrancy we wish to give to this iconic Uruguayan wine.” — Bodega Garzon description of Balasto wines
As noted in our previous blog post, https://richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com/2024/01/27/drink-local-bodega-bouza-montevideo-uruguay/ , on our second day in Montevideo, Uruguay, a small group of us toured together to two local wineries. The first is the closest winery to the capital city, Bodega Bouza, about a half-hour drive away in Melilla, Montevideo, and then, another half-hour drive further north to the Canelones region, to tour and have a wine tasting and luncheon at Familia Deicas Winery.
Familia Deicas Winery, in the Canelones region north of Montevideo, is a family-owned winery dedicated to making terroir-driven wines with a minimal intervention philosophy. Third-generation vigneron Santiago Deicas uses a lo-fi approach to produce varieties like Sauvignon Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Tannat, Uruguay’s best known and most planted grape varietal. After touring the vineyards and historical 18th-century cellar, we enjoyed a wine tasting led by one of Familia Deicas Winery’s sommeliers throughout a traditional Uruguayan 5-course luncheon in the winery’s farm-to-table restaurant (an addition to the winery in the past five years).
“Familia Deicas Winery is one of the most prestigious and trailblazing producers in Uruguay today, combining both a long history and a groundbreaking approach to modern Uruguayan wine. The Deicas family took over the historic 18th century estate and winery of Establecimiento Juanicó in 1979, a brand which continues to be a market leader in Uruguay today, and in 2000 launched their own luxury brand, Familia Deicas, with a focus on premium wines with low intervention winemaking and at the forefront of terroir explorations around Uruguay. Bodega Familia Deicas has 60 hectares [150 acres] of vineyards spread around some of the most diverse sites in Uruguayan viticulture. With a major focus on terroir exploration, Familia Deicas no doubt has the most far-reaching diversity of vineyard sites in Uruguay, and some of the most exciting vineyard sites too. The vineyard management is focused on sustainable viticulture with some organic practices.” — https://southamericawineguide.com/winery/winery-filters/winery-style/iconic/familia-deicas-winery/
“The family vineyards are situated on the southern coast of Uruguay with a strong Maritime influence from the Atlantic Ocean. The cooling effect from the sea helps retain freshness and acidity in the wines. The main red grape varieties cultivated are Tannat, which has established itself as Uruguay’s signature grape, alongside the Bordeaux varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Merlot. They also produce Malbec in Argentina’s high-altitude Luján de Cuyo region of Mendoza. Winemaker, Santiago Deicas, is the third generation in the family business, crafting terroir-driven wines using stainless steel and high-grade French oak in the family’s modern cellar.” — www.obrienswine.ie/pages/familia-deicas
Winemaker Sanrtiago Deicas explained his winemaking philosophy: “We have learned that genuine wines need a natural interpretation of the terroir. We cannot give a sense of place if we look for perfection, because we can be tempted to use makeup. With every new vineyard, we experiment with several microvinifications, and the conclusion is always the same: the best wines are those where the place dominates the winemaker. It seems that this approach is easy, but it actually demands much more knowledge and work!”
Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history. One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon. A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature. The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.
Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000. K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq. “Halifax is a navy creation. It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard. At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com
“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax. For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade. Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada.
“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic. He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.
“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria. He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront
Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.
The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax. The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749. The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.
More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture. Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books. Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)
Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site . The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856. Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.
Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character. Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand. The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.
“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city. The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies. This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”
On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea. We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.
“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy. It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia