Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 25, 2024 by richardcedwards

From our outstanding luncheon at Bodega DiamAndes, we stayed in the Uco Valley for a final winery visit – to Bodegas Salentein, that bills itself as the first Argentine winery that combines wine, art, cuisine and pleasure. We had an excellent tour of the vineyards and winery, before a delightful tasting in the cellar room, and then time to tour the excellent art “museum” galleries that are part of the estate.

“Bodegas Salentein was born in 1996, when Dutch entrepreneur Mijndert Pon bought the present estate and began planting vineyards. It was in 1997 that he planted Uco’s first high-altitude Malbec, at 1,300 meters [4,265 feet] above sea level. The cornerstone of Salentein’s architectural behemoth of a winery was laid a year later, and this stunning edifice, set amid acres of vineyards with the snowcapped Andes towering behind it, never fails to impress visitors. Winemaking at Salentein is led by José Galante, considered by many to be the father of modern winemaking in Argentina. José and his team work with 800 hectares [1,977 acres]of premium vineyards, located between 1,050 and 1,600 meters [3,445 and 5,249 feet] altitude. This high elevation, combined with the region’s mixed stony alluvial soils, provide the foundations for Salentein to produce wines of wonderful definition and distinction… Salentein’s mission as a tourist destination has always been to create a synergy between wine and art. Housed within the winery, Salentein’s Killka cultural centre has become as much of a destination for art lovers as the bodega is for lovers of wine. It is home to a hugely impressive collection of Argentine works from the second half of the 20th century as well as a permanent exhibition of 19th and 20th-century Dutch works.” www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/21-30/bodegas-salentein.html

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 — Salentein’s mission as a tourist destination has always been to create a synergy between wine and art; housed within the winery, Salentein’s Killka cultural center has become as much of a destination for art lovers as the bodega is for lovers of wine

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – beyond the estate’s vineyards, the western horizon is dominated by the close snowy Andes, which have an elevation of over 6,100 meters (20,000 feet)

“The bodega is located at an elevation of 1,200 meters (4,000 feet), right in the vineyard’s center. More than 49 hectares (121 acres) of native desert habitat were preserved and are a part of the bodega’s everyday landscape. The western horizon is dominated by the close snowy Andes, which have an elevation of over 6,100 meters (20,000 feet). The magnificent bodega was designed taking into account two aspects: the shape and the function.

“The cross shape facilitates a careful management of the grapes and the wines, while it allows a reduction of the path that both the fruits and their product traverse throughout the stages of the process. Each wing is itself a little bodega with two levels. In the first one, stainless steel tanks and French oak casks enable fermentation and storage. In the subterranean level the wine is aged in oak barrels. Both floors allow the circulation of the tanks’ liquid to the barrels through a traditional system of gravity transference. The four wings converge in a circular central chamber, similar to an amphitheater, with their design inspired by the classic temples of antiquity.’ — http://www.bodegasalentein.com/en/bodega/acerca/salentein.html

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – “beauty and function converge in the Primus Room; this exclusive room is one-of-a-kind in the country and has 12 French oak casks of 7,600 liters, equipped with a controlled refrigeration system, where Bodegas Salentein’s limited edition wine line is produced, only in the harvests where the fruit’s quality is exceptional”

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 — the floor of the central barrel aging chamber shows an important design of strong symbolic content: it’s based on the wind rose, with each end oriented towards the cardinal points

“The subterranean bodegas are located nine meters (29 feet) underground and have a constant temperature of 12°C (54°F), with an 80% of humidity in the environment. The wines are aged in small French barrels made of oak, of 225 liters each. Altogether, these levels house 5,000 barrels. Another characteristic of the cellar is its stone floor. Seen from the superior [upper] level, the floor of the central chamber shows an important design of strong symbolic content: it’s based on the wind rose, with each end oriented towards the cardinal points. In this way, it represents its relation with the rest of the world. For this floor’s construction, natural stones of the Cuyo region were used, the yellow quartzite sandstone, the green chlorite of schist variety, and the red limonite sandstone are among them.” — http://www.bodegasalentein.com/en/bodega/acerca/salentein.html

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – tasting the outstanding 2019 Salentein Single Vineyard Las Tunas, Gualtallary, Valle de Uco Malbec in the subterranean wind rose barrel chamber

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – Killka Gallery, opened in 2006, is a space designed to the exhibit and sell works of renowned local artists, national and foreign; its schedule consist of four annual exhibits, one per season

“The name chosen for the building that welcomes visitors was Killka, which allures guests to come in and taste the wine world. The word “Killka” means portal or gateway and has its origins in the Quechua language. “Portales: trasconejada. Travesía Imaginaria” (Portals: Pursuit and Getting lost. Imaginary Journey), our new expository proposal, is articulated around the concepts of “portal” and “time”. The leading artist Marcela Furlani, along with Raquel Fluixá, Valeria Señorans and Héctor Ramazzi, reinterpret these concepts and link them into our space. They invite us to tour Killka Art Gallery in a playful and experimental way, offering our guests a renewed experience.

“At Killka Art Gallery, a new chapter begins. Our exhibition space expands and integrates into the architectural surroundings. Artwork floods in the facilities, following us at every step we take. Time is also a constant throughout the exhibition space, marking and guiding the cycles of both nature and culture. Killka’s design is intended to allow us to detach from our daily routine and connect with the world of art and wine. It invites us to travel through space and time. Its architecture offers a way of reinterpreting the ancient construction techniques of the Cuyo region in Argentina. The outcome is a contemporary building that makes a strong Andean impression. The perfect merger between the past and the present.” — http://www.bodegasalentein.com/en/killka/exposiciones.html

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – 19th century historic Dutch paintings in the Killka Art Gallery

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – the most valuable painting in the collection by Johannes Franciscus Spohler (Rotterdam, 1853-Amsterdam 1894), “De Zuiderhavendijk te Enkhuizen” 1894 — “The South Port Dyke at Enkhuizen” (El Puerto sur del dique en Enkhuizen), oil on canvas – said to be worth US$40 million

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – the modern collage/sculpture by Ricardo Longhini (1949, Buenos Aires, Argentina) “Pampita… Argentina?” 2005, carving and assembly

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 11 – an outdoor “sculpture” on the walls of the Killka Art Gallery building

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 12 – distances to “the great wine capitals”

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 13 – sculptures on the grounds of the entrance to Bodegas Salentein

Bodegas Salentein, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 14 – additional sculptures on the grounds of the entrance to Bodegas Salentein

Eat and Drink local: Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 25, 2024 by richardcedwards

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 — the winery is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center

On our last day in the Mendoza wine regions, we drove south to a relatively newly developed area, comprising five wineries in the Clos de Los Siete group. Each winery is owned independently, but they collectively produce one estate wine, Clos de Los Siete. Our visit was to Bodega DiamAndes, where we had an outstanding tour led by the estate’s executive chef, Santiago Orozco Russo, followed by a delicious and creative luncheon with paired estate wines at the estate’s restaurant, DIAMS Bar & Bistrot. We found out that the restaurant, DIAMs, was awarded the gold medal for “Best Winery Restaurant in Argentina 2021” by the Great Wine Capitals. The winery itself is named after a cross between Diamond and Andes, and so, appropriately, the icon of the winery is the steel diamond shaped sculpture in the center. The winery produces Malbec, Syrah, Chardonnay and Viognier as well as red blends and a rose. DiamAndes has been an organic certified vineyard since 2022. Natural fertilizers and biodegradable products, both environmentally friendly, are used, creating more stable and balanced vineyards with a significant improvement in the quality of the grapes.

“A play on the word “diamante,” this ultra-modern Uco Valley winery’s name is inspired by the snow-capped peaks among which it sits, at 1,000 meters above sea level in the foothills of the Andes. Part of the prestigious Clos de los Siete group, the estate’s 130 hectares were acquired by the Bonnie family (of Château Malartic-Lagravière and Château Gazin Rocquencourt, in Bordeaux) in 2005, with a gravity flow winery opening in 2009 designed by Eliana Bórmida and Mario Yanzón, a duo renowned for their ‘landscape architecture’ incorporating the Mendoza landscape with sympathy and flair. The circular barrel cellar (full of premium French oak barrels) and the magical crypt (used to store and age bottles) are particular highlights, not to mention the culinary prowess of the award-winning restaurant.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/explore/Vineyards/Argentina/Mendoza/Bodega-DiamAndes-SA.html

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the beautifully designed winery complex (one of the two buildings is pictured here), utilizing gravity flow, opened in 2009

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the extensive estate vineyards are close to the foothills of the Andes Mountains, which gave the winery part of its name (diamANDES)

The winery’s philosophy relates to its exceptional location in the Uco Valley at an elevation of 1,100 meters (3,609 feet): “Nothing exceptional can be achieved without an exceptional terroir”.

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – stainless steel fermentation tanks in the gravity flow winery complex

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – with two labels (one for domestic consumption, and one for export), our first wine was a 2022 L’Argentin de Malartic Malbec Rose

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – our amuse bouche was a delicious mushroom puree empanada in beetroot pastry on a base of mased avocado

“The Franco-Argentine blend is also evident at DIAM’s Bar & Bistrot, a high-end restaurant mixing Argentine produce with a touch of French gastronomic flair. Led by chef Santiago Orozco Russo, the team creates original and perfectly crafted dishes sourced from the organic garden and local suppliers. The restaurant offers four menus a year, each specially designed to highlight the season and a label from the DiamAndes range. The restaurant cellar also houses a collection of older vintages.” — www.worldsbestvineyards.com/the-list/Bodega-Diamandes.html

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – our first course was a rainbow of fruits and vegetables served creatively on a broken “pizza crust”-shaped ceramic plate

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our second wine was a 2019 DiamAndes de Uco Syrah

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – our second course was confit rabbit terrine, pistachio and figs, caramelized onions gel, cherries, grapes, wild fennel

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – our next wine was 2020 DiamAndes de Uco Malbec

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 11 – for our main course we chose the beef loin & demi-glace, sage butter, Andean potatoes, truffle mayonnaise, chips and sprouts

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 12 – our dessert wine was a 2022 DiamAndes Perilta Chardonnay

Bodega DiamAndes, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 13 – for dessert we had mascarpone and apricot mousse, purple corn crumble, yogurt & matcha sauce

Eat and drink local: Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 24, 2024 by richardcedwards

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 – we enjoyed our luncheon at the winery’s locally popular (and “famous”) restaurant, La Azul, that serves a five-course Argentian parilla-style luncheon, paired with their own wines

Leaving Bodega Zuccardi mid-day, we drove north through the Uco Valley to reach Bodega La Azul, one of the smallest wineries in the Uco Valley and completely family owned. While the family originally grew grapes and sold to some other wineries, they began making wine in 2003 and today produce about 120,000 75-ml bottles (10,000 cases of 12-bottles). We stopped for their locally popular (and “famous”) five-course Argentian parilla-style luncheon, paired with their own wines. In Argentine cuisine, the word parilla refers to three things: the barbecue grill, the metal grate positioned over the grill’s wood and ember-filled firebox, and steakhouses that serve barbecued meat. The restaurant was completely full – mostly locals, particularly small to large groups of young men, and, separately, young women, with a scattering of couples and a few families with younger children. With endless pours of each of the three wines paired with the five-course lunch, we could see (and hear) how popular their late afternoon luncheon was — whether inside the open-air restaurant, or on the veranda, all overlooking the Andes Mountains and their vineyards. This was probably the most authentic “local” Argentine meal that we had in Mendoza and was tasty and a lot of fun.

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the restaurant has both indoor and outdoor seating and was jam-packed all afternoon (on a Friday, not yet even the weekend!)

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – one of the starter courses was grilled corn and cherry tomatoes on top of corn pudding

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – another starter course was a fresh mixed greens salad with roasted pearl onions

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – our third starter was choripán, a type of Argentine assado sandwich made with grilled chorizo

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – another starter was empanadas cooked in a very hot clay oven

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – one main course was slowly cooked pork shoulder

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – another main course was glazed, grilled pork belly ribs

Bodega La Azul, Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – a quiet area outside the bustling restaurant

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 24, 2024 by richardcedwards

We drove south from our lodgings at Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel in the Luján de Cuyo region to the Uco Valley to visit two wineries the next day. Our morning tour and tasting was at the family owned and operated Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, south of the small city of Tunuyán. “In 1963, Ing. Alberto Zuccardi planted a vineyard in the region of Maipu, not knowing that it would be the beginning of the great passion of his life, the wine industry. In 1990, his son, José Alberto Zuccardi, assumed the General Directorate of the company. In 2005, Sebastián Zuccardi, third generation of the family, led the development in the Uco Valley. Thanks to him, the winery has had an area of Research and Development dedicated to the study of the terroir and the different variables that affect wine production since 2008. Construction started on the new Zuccardi Valle de Uco Valley winery in 2013, and opened in March 2016. Its philosophy is to produce wines with identity, through the continuous exploration of the different terroirs of the Uco Valley.” — www.decanter.com

Although we did not eat there, the winery has an acclaimed restaurant, Piedra Infiniita Cocina, with wide windows through which the landscape can be seen and integrated with the setting – giving the feeling of eating in the middle of the vineyards.

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the Piedra Infinita vineyard is “located in the heart of the alluvial plain of the Tunuyán River; this vineyard expresses the characteristic diversity of the chalky soils of Paraje Altamira. At this vineyard, every part of the cycle, from pruning to harvesting, is based on soil type. The winery is in the heart of the vineyard.” – Zuccardi Winery

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the Andes Mountains form a backdrop for the Piedra Infinita vineyard

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – the winery was constructed “with natural materials, stones from the land: round, white, chalky. The building is made with cement, from the outside in, from the stone walls to the epoxy-free cement tanks where the wines are made.” – Zuccardi Winery

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 — the fermentation cellar with concrete fermentation vessels

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – “the tanks and vessels are the result of years of experimentation in pursuit of the ideal vessel, resulting in the tapered neck, the element that makes it possible to work more naturally with the grape juices and wines.” – Zuccardi Winery

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – Ing. Alberto V. Zuccardi, Fundador (Alberto V. Zuccardi, founder of the winery)

“Innovation is usually the bailiwick of the small aggressive start-up. The two guys in the garage rather than the big successful established company. Zuccardi is that rarity that can straddle both worlds. The company that has climbed to the top but is still able to act like the two guys in the garage – only with greater resources. Wine critic Jancis Robinson writing in the Financial Times dedicated a whole laudatory column to describing their success: “Their story incorporates mid 20th-century technical innovation, enviable sales success around the turn of the century and, now, a possible blueprint for the future of Argentine wine.”

“The story starts with Alberto Zuccardi’s family emigrating from Italy to Argentina in the late 19th century. An engineer by trade, Alberto Zuccardi was responsible for helping to develop the irrigation system in Mendoza, which is essentially a desert. In 1963, Alberto Zuccardi planted the first acre of vines in Maipú, Mendoza. His son José Alberto is the force that made Zuccardi one of the top five exporters of Argentinian wines. They created a brand Fuzion, a sub-$8 Malbec-Syrah blend which became the top selling wine in Canada. According to Ian Mount’s book, The Vineyard at the End of the World, in 2010 Zuccardi exported $40 million of wine, including 900,000 cases of Fuzion.

“Yet even while the revenue was coming in from the inexpensive Malbec, the Zuccardis still had one eye on innovation. In her book Vino Argentino, Laura Catena [one of the current generation managers of the Catena Zapata family winiery] praises José Alberto for the development of an experimental vineyard “where the winemakers have planted more than 35 varieties including obscure ones such as as Caladoc, Bourboulenc Ancellota and Ekigaina-to study their adaptation to the conditions in Mendoza.”

“Today Sebastian Zuccardi, the third generation of winemakers, is taking the push to innovation even farther as the company strives to create more terroir driven, vineyard specific wines. He oversees the research and development division of the company in the Uco Valley.

“In recent wine history, technology has typically been used to create industrial, international style wines, but the Zuccardis are employing hi-tech techniques such as sophisticated soil mapping, to better develop their artisanal, terroir focused winemaking. The soil mapping leads to the vines being picked and separated relative to their soil types rather than strict geographical proximity.” — https://grapecollective.com

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – a “pendant” hanging in the dome of the tasting room where we enjoyed several of the Zuccardi family’s wines; this is the dome visible from outside the building

Bodega Zuccardi Valle de Uco, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – the five Zuccardi family wines that we tasted; in 2013, Wine Enthusiast magazine named Zuccardi Valle de Uco the New World Winery of the Year

Bodega Catena Zapata, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 24, 2024 by richardcedwards

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 — inspired by Mayan temples, the pyramid-shaped winery is an attraction in itself, but the historic estate also offers several different types of tours and wine tastings; it is Argentina’s oldest family winery still in family hands!

Following our excellent luncheon at Casa El Enemigo Vigil at Bodega El Enemigo in the Luján de Cuyo valley, we drove south past the small town of Agrelo to reach one of the major, historic wineries of Argentina — Bodega Catena Zapata. It is Argentina’s oldest family winery still in family hands! “Catena Zapata, a historic family winery founded in 1902, is currently managed by third and fourth generation vintners Nicolás and his daughter Laura Catena. Nicolás Catena Zapata is known as the man who revolutionized Argentine wine in the 1980’s, by focusing primarily on quality, planting vineyards at 1,500 meters elevation and spearheading the re-entrance of Malbec – the French varietal that had been almost completely forgotten by the rest of the world – into the world of wine [, with the consulting help of Paul Hobbs of Paul Hobbs Winery in California’s Sonoma Valley, USA]. Catena Zapata and Nicolás Catena Zapata have received many awards, including Decanter Man of the Year from Decanter Magazine, Distinguished Service Award from The Wine Spectator, and Winery of the Year from publications all over the world.” — Google

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – vineyards at the winery; note that many of their vineyards are further away, on the slopes of the Andes Mountains foothills, at high elevations

“Nicolás Catena Zapata is justly credited with putting Argentinean wines on the world map — by the best expedient of focusing entirely on quality. It’s great to know he has started a wine dynasty, too.” — Jancis Robinson, Financial Times wine journalist

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the interior architecture of the winery holds many surprises, including this functional and geometrically pleasing stairwell

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – in addition to traditional cylindrical stainless steel fermentation tanks, the winery also uses concrete and stainless steel “eggs” for fermentation

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – a small section of the curved barrel aging room

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – founder Nicola Catena — who passed the winery on to his son, Domingo, and then Domingo’s son, Nicolás Catena Zapata, who revolutionized winemaking in Argentina

“A LEGEND BECAUSE… It was Nicolás Catena who thrust Argentinian wine into the modern era. A widely travelled academic economist, he learned from his exposure in the 1970s both to great Bordeaux and the huge promise of Napa wines. In the early 1980s, Catena agreed the key was to plant the right varieties in the right location, specifically cooler, higher sites.” — Decanter [Magazine] Wine Legend

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – our wine tasting, held in a bottle aging room, was a “sensory experience” with music accompanying a tasting of four wines

Bodega Catena Zapata, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our tasting after the tour – Catena Zapata’s Argentinian Malbec is different from many other because their vineyards are at higher altitudes, creating a Malbec that is floral, pretty and surprisingly light in color; the estate also produces excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and a set of indigenous grape varieties, some in a natural style.

The wines in our tasting:

2020 Angelica Zapata Chardonnay

2020 Catena Zapata Nicasia Vineyard Malbec

2017 D.V. Cetana Vineyard Designated Cabernet Sauvignon, Domingo Vineyard

2019 Catena Zapata Argentine Malbec

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 23, 2024 by richardcedwards

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 1 – the reflecting pool is on the walkway from the street entrance through the gardens and some vineyards to the main hotel building

After we left the Park Hyatt Hotel in downtown Mendoza, we stayed in the wine region at Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel in the Luján de Cuyo region, south of the capital city. We used the hotel as a “base of operations” for explorations over four days, and at the end of our stay, we headed to the Mendoza airport to fly north to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, in time to attend CARNAVAL 2024 on the last night of the festival this year. Entre Cielos and its vineyards are located a little east of the snowcapped Andes Mountains. The Entre Cielos estate was conceived as a vineyard hotel, with eight of the hotel’s 20 acres planted with vineyards, including Malbec and Sauvignon Blanc. Our hotel room was a two-story suite (living room downstairs and bedroom and bathroom upstairs), overlooking the estate. There are also vineyard lofts, added in the vineyards in 2018, measuring 420 square feet and furnished with king-size beds, private bathrooms with shower, a small sitting area, and a large outdoor terrace accessed by floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors. The hotel features a spa and Hamam, awarded the “Best Luxury Boutique Spa in South America” and a signature restaurant, Katharina Bistró, utilizing locally sourced ingredients to serve a tantalizing tapas-style menu. We enjoyed a daily buffet breakfast and an excellent dinner, where your photographer/blogger enjoyed celebrating his birthday dinner accompanied an outstanding local wine, a 2019 Pulenta Wines Valle de Uco Gran Malbec, one of the best wines we enjoyed in Mendoza during our 5 days in the region.

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – vineyards on the walkway to the hotel

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – interspersed with lots of tropical and Mediterranean-area plants along the walkway, we found some cacti with prickly pears

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – a close-up of the prickly pears

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – one of the four two-story hotel suites, like the one we stayed in

“Entre Cielos is located in Luján de Cuyo and offers a majestic setting to appreciate the great distinctive feature of our province, the Andes Mountains. Just 30 minutes from the capital Mendocina [Mendoza], the hotel is surrounded by 1,200 vineyards from renowned local producers. On the outskirts you can find shopping malls, pubs and different cultural experiences that make our province a unique place.” – www.entrecielos.com

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 — an oversized outdoor pool sits against the backdrop of the property’s vineyard; we enjoyed swimming late in the afternoon almost every day

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – Malbec vineyards are interrupted by several vineyard loft resort “rooms” in the middle of the fields

Entre Cielos Luxury Wine Hotel, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 — vineyard lofts were added in the vineyards in 2018, measuring 420 square feet and furnished with king-size beds, private bathrooms with shower, a small sitting area, and a large outdoor terrace accessed by floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 22, 2024 by richardcedwards

From Bodega La Rural and its Wine Museum, we drove south, past the town of Luján de Cuyo, to reach the internationally well-known winery, Viñs Cobos, founded by and owned by the winemaker of California’s Sonoma Valley, USA, winery, Paul Hobbs Winery. We had an excellent wine tasting, with each wine paired with a delicious “snack”, with the whole experience taking the place of a nice luncheon. “Established in 1998 by renowned winemaker, Paul Hobbs, from humble beginnings, Viña Cobos today has grown to become internationally recognized for its expertise in producing luxury-class wines and is the world quality leader for Malbec. An authentic expression of their terroirs, Viña Cobos wines are one of man’s truest reflections of our dance with nature.” – www.vinacobos.com

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – vineyards on the side of the winery building

“A first trip to Argentina in March 1988 marked the beginning of a South American winemaking career that continues today with Viña Cobos in Mendoza. [{Paul Hobbs] is recognized for being a pioneer and playing a pivotal role in launching Malbec to fame [with the Catena Zapata winery and family] and for his contribution to helping transform Argentina into a world-class wine region.” — www.vinacobos.com

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – vineyards adjacent to the winery in Luján de Cuyo, the premier growing region of Mendoza, fed by the snowmelt of the Andes through the Mendoza River; the high altitudes range from 945 – 1,100 meters (2,624 – 3,608 feet) and the soils are alluvial, with a subsoil of clay, sand, silt and rock

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – the Viña Cobos winery and Luján de Cuyo vineyards are just beynd the eastern side of the Andes Mountains in the Mendoza region

“Viña Cobos makes wines that are authentic expressions of the terroir from which they come. Paul Hobbs, founding partner and winemaker at Viña Cobos, has worked since 1988 in the exploration of the different terroirs of Mendoza, looking for the most distinguished regions in Luján de Cuyo and the Valle de Uco, to produce wines that uniquely express their origins. With the inaugural vintage of Cobos Malbec in 1999, Viña Cobos marked a milestone in viticulture, defying existing standards and firmly positioned Malbec and Argentina on the international wine scene. Since then, these prestigious wines have been recognized around the globe by critics and consumers alike.” — www.paulhobbsselections.com/vina-cobos

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – stainless steel fermenting tanks in the winery, with a view of the vineyards

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – the lobby of the new tasting facility at the winery that just opened in November 2022

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – our first flight of wines included a 2023 Felino Chardonnay and two 2021 Bramare Malbec wines, one each from the two high quality growing regions for Viña Cobos — Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco

The wines in the Felino portfolio are pure varietal expressions serve as a vibrant introduction to Mendoza, sourced from rigorously selected vineyards throughout the region’s top quality growing areas – Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco – imparting distinct fruit profiles to the wines. The wines in the Bramare portfolio are sourced from premier vineyards in Luján de Cuyo and Valle de Uco. The winery notes that these wines “capture the characteristics of the two most prestigious growing regions in Mendoza”.

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our next wine was a 2019 Viniculum Mendoza Malbec, sourced from a single grape grower in the region

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – one of us was celebrating a birthday, so our last two wines were specially selected and only sold at the winery; here a 2019 Viña Cobos Hobbs Estate Agrelo Cabernet Sauvignon

Viña Cobos, Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 10 – our second specially selected wine, again, sold only at the winery, was a 2017 Viña Cobos Micro Ediciones Agrelo Cabernet Sauvignon Luján de Cuyo

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 22, 2024 by richardcedwards

Our first winery visit was at Bodega La Rural in Maipú, a little south of the City of Mendoza, in the Luján de Cuyo valley. Bodega La Rural is the historic winery of the Rutini family who have been making wine in Mendoza since 1885. We visited both the La Rural vineyards and winery, followed by an extensive tour of the family’s wine museum, unique in both the Mendoza wine region and South America. The wine museum is in what was the family home of Don Felipe Rutii, the founder of Bodega La Rural in 1885. The historic collection of grape farming and wine making tools and instruments from the 18^th and 19^th centuries is both prestigious and said to be one of the most important in the world, documenting that era of winemaking.

The collection and museum were collected and built by Dr. Rodolfo Reina Rutini, the grandson of Don Felipe. The collection of the Wine Museum totals 4,500 original, historic pieces and is made up of machines, carriages, wine presses, cooper’s tools, terracotta containers from the colonial era, oak vessels, pumps and grinders, books, oenological catalogs, elements of laboratory, bottles and countless other items. The museum is visited by more than 66,000 Argentinian and foreign tourists annually, Following the wine museum tour, we had a wine tasting in one of the cellar rooms.

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – an old wine press, part of the Wine Museum’s collection, at the foot of one of the winery’s vineyards in Maipú

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the Rutini family coat of arms, on a tiled frame at the winery

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – in the past 15 years, the winery has almost completely upgraded all their winemaking equipment and technology; shown here are some of the stainless-steel fermenting tanks

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – Museo del Vino, the wine Museum, is adjacent to the winery in what was the family home of Don Felipe Rutii, the founder of Bodega La Rural in 1885

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 6 – part of the outdoor display of colonial era vineyard tools

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 7 – the cooper’s tools and cooperage section of the Wine Museum, all dating back to the colonial era

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 8 – the winery was founded in 1885 by Don Felipe Rutini, an Italian immigrant to the Mendoza, Argentina, region, and the son of Don Francisco Rutini, who had made domestic wines for the citizens of his native town, Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche, Italy

“The winemaking tradition of the Rutini family was born in the beginning of the 19th century when Don Francisco Rutini started making domestic wines for the citizens of his native town, Ascoli Piceno, Le Marche, Italy. His only son, Felipe Rutini, decided to emigrate to the Americas to continue with the winemaking tradition. It was in Coquimbito, Department of Maipu, Mendoza, where he planted the first vines. Towards the end of 1885 he began the construction of a winery, which he named La Rural, with the motto ” Labor et Perseverantia.” His first and primary concern was always quality.

“Don Felipe continued working with his plantations in Maipu and then expanded his operations to Los Corralitos and to Medrano, enlarging the winery and also importing large vats and Nancy French oak casks. Don Felipe passed away in 1919, leaving his descendants in charge of the company, who took up the development of white and red fine varietals such as Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Malbec. Later on the Chenin grape from the Loire Valley was incorporated.“ — www.ladatco.com/AR-MDZ La Rural.htm

Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 9 – our private wine tasting in one of the cellar rooms

Mendoza, Argentina

Posted on February 21, 2024 by richardcedwards

On our overland journey from the ship, accompanied by friends, we flew from Iguazú Falls to Mendoza for a night in the city and then four days of exploring the area’s wine region – the largest wine growing region in Argentina — now known for the excellent Malbecs produced by over 1,000 wineries up and down the two valleys, Luján de Cuyo and Uco Valley. Mendoza, officially “The City of Mensoza” (Spanish: Ciudad de Mendoza) is a city in Argentina’s Cuyo region and the heart of Argentina’s wine country. It is situated at an elevation of 2,497 feet (761 meters) in the irrigated Mendoza River valley at the foot of the Sierra de los Paramillos, a secondary range in the Andes Mountains. The city has wide, leafy streets lined with modern and art deco buildings, and smaller plazas surrounding Plaza Independencia, site of subterranean Museo Municipal de Arte Moderno, displaying modern and contemporary art. While the city’s population is around 100,000, the metropolitan region has a population ten-times as large, over 1,000,000 people.

Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 2 – the Monument to the Army of the Andes is capped by the statue of General José de San Martín, in Cerro de la Gloria (within Parque San Martin), sculpted by Juan Manuel Ferrari

“The city was founded and relocated several times in the 1560s by Spaniards arriving from Chile. Not until 1776 did control of the region, then known as Cuyo, pass from Spanish Chilean administration to the newly created Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata, governed from Buenos Aires. During the movement for independence from Spain, Mendoza was the headquarters of General Jose de San Martin, who organized an expeditionary force to cross the Andes and liberate Chile in 1817. A monument commemorating this event is atop Gloria Hill, overlooking the city on the west (see the above photograph). In 1861 Mendoza was destroyed by an earthquake, with heavy loss of life. A new city was planned (1863) with broad tree-lined streets, squares, and public parks, close to the ruins. An influx of immigrants, mostly Italians, in the late 19^th century stimulated economic development.” — www.britannica.com/place/Mendoza-Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 3 – the base of the Monument to the Army of the Andes (capped by the statue of General José de San Martín) has friezes on each of the four compass quadrants telling the story of the 1816 departure of the Andes Army to Chile

Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 4 – a partial view of downtown Mendoza from the Cerro de la Gloria (within Parque San Martin)

Mendoza, Argentina, photograph # 5 – another festive sign welcoming locals and tourists downtown; it is brightly lighted at night and draws many people to Plaza Independencia, in the heart of the city

Eat local: Fogón Asado — Gorriti, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Posted on February 18, 2024 by richardcedwards

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 1 – “at Fogón you will experience an up-close and exclusive view of the asado craft prepared right in front of you on our custom-made grill.”

On our first trip to Buenos Aires in 2016 we did the high-end touristy dinner at the very highly-rated, traditional Argentinian grilled beef restaurant, Don Julio, which was excellent. This trip we decided to try something different, and based on several recommendations, we got a reservation for us and three good friends for a tasting-menu asado dinner at the highly-regarded (and Michelin-recommended) Fogón Asado in downtown Buenos Aires. Asado is a multifunctional term that describes the method of barbecuing meat in South America, the meat itself, and the social event associated with the meal. Much like an American barbecue, asado has a unique cooking method, cultural traditions, and specialty sauces that accompany it. Asado takes its origin from the Spanish word asar, meaning to grill.

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 2 – our 9-course asado tasting menu focused on meats – at Fogón they use local grass-fed beef in new and creative preparations

“At Fogón you will experience an up-close and exclusive view of the asado craft prepared right in front of you on our custom-made grill. Our specially designed Asado tasting menus showcase the best Argentine ingredients and local grass-fed beef in new and creative preparations, perfectly paired with wine varieties from Argentina’s oldest wineries… Our Asado Tasting Menu consists of 9 courses of dishes that elevate the Asado experience to new heights, bringing you closer to the essence of cooking with fire. The menu is entirely prepared on our state-of-the-art custom grill in front of guests, bringing you on an intimate, communal culinary journey. Our optional wine pairings are inspired by and in line with the flavors of our kitchen.” — https://fogonasado.com/

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 3 — local grass-fed beef short ribs trimmed and ready to go in the smoker for one hour

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 4 – the local grass-fed beef short ribs, trimmed and ready, are smoked (in this portable coals-fired smoker) for one hour

“If the idea of a dining experience based around a traditional grill concept sounds appealing, this unusual restaurant in the Palermo district will definitely fit the bill but you’ll need to book ahead! Attention to detail is to the fore here, and the subdued lighting and open brickwork ensure that all the focus is on the large grill at the centre of the dining room. The dining experience, based around an 8-[or 9=] course menu (fire-roasted aubergines, chorizo, morcilla, Provoleta cheese, a succulent glazed pork belly, pine cone-smoked “ceja” and ribeye), is both informative and interactive with constant communication between the grill chefs and guests, the majority of whom are tourists or groups of friends. Everything the chefs do is explained in detail, from the provenance of the wood used, the feed used for the cattle, the best accompanying salsas etc. A splendid and fun journey lasting over two hours across Argentina’s most popular culinary art form!” — https://guide.michelin.com/us/en/

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 5 – our team of chefs/”waiters” prepared the first course – seasonal vegetable with ricotta cheese with fresh herbs

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 6 – our first course was grilled Italian eggplant halves with ricotta cheese with fresh herbs

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 7 — our 2nd course was “ironed” provoleta cheese (grilled provolone cheese) with grilled fruit and a tomato reduction

For our wine pairings with dinner, the Intrepid Explorer and your blogger both chose the “Malbec Discovery” pairings, consisting of five top end Mendoza region Argentinian Malbecs:

Zuccardi Polígonos Malbec

Zuccardi Aluvional Malbec

Catena Adrianna Vineyard Designated Malbec

Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino (see photograph # 15 and its caption, along with the following text)

Zuccardi Malamado Malbec (a port style wine)

Note that a week later, on an overland journey to the Mendoza region for a few days with friends from the ship, we did visit two of these three wineries: Zuccardi and Catena Zapata, where we greatly enjoyed their wines, again.

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 8 – our 3rd course was *rmojella* (sweetbreads) and roasted tomatoes and ginger sauce

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 9 — our 4th course was *morcilla* – a blood sausage, and a chorizo sausage each topped with quince and apple chutney

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 10 — our 5th course was slow braised asado al Papillote (smoky, grilled beef short ribs) – the pinecone smoked beef ribs were removed from the portable smoker (see photograph #4, above) for slicing and serving

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 11 – we were each offered a personal choice of a custom made Fogón steak knife

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 12 — our 6th course was pork flank steak (Matambre) with yellow chili sauce, lime and cilantro salad

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 13 – once removed from the smoker, the pinecone smoked Ribeye Cap steak was sliced for serving

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 14 — our 7th course was pinecone smoked Ribeye Cap steak with creamy cauliflower puree and flame roasted corn kernels

Fogón Asado, Buenos Aires, Argentina, photograph # 15 — the label for Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino pays tribute to the variety’s history in France and its rise in Argentina

“The epic tale of the noble Malbec grape is like no other, and the label for Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino pays tribute to the variety’s history in France and its rise in Argentina. Four female figures embody different landmarks in the history of the grape. Eleanor of Aquitaine represents the birth of Malbec. She is a strong, Old-World presence, lingering at the bridge in Cahors, where Malbec came into its own. Next, the Immigrant symbolizes the movement to the New World and the unknown explorers and adventurers who connected Europe with the Americas. Phylloxera personifies the death of Malbec in the Old World, which enabled its rebirth in the new. Finally, there is Bodega Catena Zapata, represented by Adrianna Catena, who depicts birth, earth, and motherhood, sharing the riches of the New World. Today, the Catena family’s fourth generation leads the high-altitude renaissance in Argentina. We are returning Malbec to the sky… where it belongs. No matter what the vintage, this wine is really more than 100 years old. It represents a family’s journey to produce an Argentine Malbec that can stand with the great wines of the world.” — https://catenazapata.com/malbec-argentino.php

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Exploring and photographing by sea

Tag Archives: Mendoza

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Bodega La Rural, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina

Mendoza, Argentina

Eat local: Fogón Asado — Gorriti, Buenos Aires, Argentina