Tristan Da Cunha, THE WORLD’S MOST REMOTE INHABITABLE ISLAND, B.O.T. (British Overseas Territory)

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 1 – the world’s most remote inhabitable island is more-or less in the middle of the Southern Atlantic Ocean (between the South American and African continents), which was on our sailing route from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil to Cape Town, South Africa

Our Atlantic Ocean crossing from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil to Cape Town, South Africa, was planned for fourteen days, including a stop, nearly midway, at THE WORLD’S MOST REMOTE IMHABITABLE ISLAND, Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory.  How remote is remote, you ask?  The volcanic Island (and the 4 islands that make up the eponymous archipelago) is 2,816 kilometers (1,750 miles) from the nearest land in South Africa, to the east, and 3,360 kilometers (2,088 miles) from South America.  The only way to visit is by boat – fishing boats from Cape Town, South Africa, and around 10 small expedition cruise ships per year.  Note that there is NO airport on the island, so you can’t come and go quickly…

How many people live on the island?  The week before we arrived in mid-February, it was 237, and then there was a baby born on the island, so now it is 238.  The other three islands that make up the Tristan Da Cunha archipelago are uninhabited – the nearby island of Nightingale Island and the wildlife reserve of Inaccessible Island (both of which we sailed by), and two days further southeast by steamship, the wildlife reserve of Gough Island.  Gough and Inaccessible islands together constitute a wildlife reserve, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995.  Everyone on Tristan Da Cunha lives in the only town, Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, just up from the relatively new Calshot Harbor, which can only handle Zodiacs, tender boats, small fishing boats, and barges (which are used to bring in supplies from the occasional supply ships from Cape Town). 

Tristan da Cunha is part of the British Overseas Territory of Saint Helena and Ascension Islands (both of which we have visited on our ship on earlier Atlantic Ocean crossings), along with Tristan Da Cunha.  Saint Helena Island is 1,510 miles to the north (2,430 kilometers), and Ascension Island is even further north.

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 2 — everyone on Tristan Da Cunha lives in the only town, Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, just up from the relatively new Calshot Harbor, which can only handle Zodiacs, tender boats, small fishing boats, and barges

You are probably also asking, why are the islands a British Overseas Territory, and why did England put people on an island so far from the British Isles?  Good question. Recall that after Napoleon Bonaparte was defeated (Waterloo, 1815) he was EXILED by the British to Saint Helena Island.  Someone in the British military quicky saw that there were two unclaimed islands, about 1,000 miles north and south of Saint Helena Island – islands the French could claim and build up a military presence to then “rescue” Napoleon from Saint Helena Island.  Voila, the British decided to take over both islands in 1816 — Ascension Island to the north and Tristan da Cunha to the south – to keep the French out of the South Atlantic Ocean.  They administered the British Overseas Territory from Cape Town, South Africa, another area the “Crown” controlled.  In 2009, Saint Helena and its two territories received equal status under a new constitution, and the British Overseas Territory was renamed Saint Helena, Ascension, and Tristan Da Cunha, administered now from Saint Helena Island

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 3 – three young girls in second grade had the day off from school and guided some of our friends around the island

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 4 – the 19th century stone residence of the island’s administrator, appointed by the British Overseas Territory governor on Saint Helena Island

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 5 – the local school

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 6 – one of three graveyards at the edge of town

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 7 — many of the private homes were originally built of stone in the 1800s, with more recent buildings constructed of metal siding and roofs

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 8 – cows grazing at the edge of town

Each family is allowed to have one cow (for fresh milk) and, each family also has a “potato patch”, about a 2.5-mile walk from the center of town — that each family takes care of.  Historically, given the island’s remote location and the infrequency of fresh food supplies arriving, potatoes were historically extremely important to the local diet.

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 9 — the Thatched House Museum was built in 2012; the cottage is a faithful replica of the original stone houses built here, from its locally quarried stone walls to its roof covered in New Zealand flax — there’s also an authentic privy (outhouse), a necessity before indoor plumbing became common in the 1950s

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 10 — a plaque inside the Thatched House Museum honoring those islanders who returned after spending 2 years in England, following the 1961 volcanic eruption on the island

In the previous couple of photographs, you may have noticed a background wall of volcanic rocks.  That is a new geologic feature on the island since 1961.  “On 10 October 1961, the eruption of a parasitic cone of Queen Mary’s Peak, very close to Edinburgh of the Seven Seas, forced evacuation of all 264 people.   The evacuees took to the water in open boats, taken by the local lobster-fishing boats Tristania and Frances Repetto to uninhabited Nightingale Island.

The next day, they were picked up by the diverted Dutch passenger ship Tjisadane that took them to Cape Town.  The islanders later arrived in the U.K. aboard the liner M.V. Stirling Castle to a big press reception and, after a short period at Pendell Army Camp in Merstham, Surrey, were settled in an old Royal Air Force camp, near Calshot, Hampshire.  The following year, a Royal Society expedition reported that Edinburgh of the Seven Seas had survived.  Most families returned in 1963.” – Wikipedia

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 11 – a private home in Edinburgh of the Seven Seas

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 12 — the Camogli Healthcare Centre, usually referred to as the hospital, was built and equipped in 2016-2017 to the latest U.K. National Health Service (NHS) standards and was officially opened on 7 June 2017; we had a thorough tour with some of the visiting Cape Town and local nurses and were very impressed with the level of care available in such a remote location

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 13 — uphill from the island’s sole grocery (and general merchandise) store is the “Post Office” and “tourist center” – note there are very few tourists who make the long distance to the island

The world’s remotest Post Office team offers a full philatelic service for collectors, with regular issues of interesting and attractive stamps.  Note that Tristan da Cunha did not have stamps until 1952, and the first ones were overprinted St Helena definitives.  Essays priced in potatoes were however prepared in the 1940s as part of the petition for stamps. Before then, islanders had to rely on the good will of visiting ships.  Tristan stamps have been popular with collectors ever since.  Today the island has stamp collectors around the world who buy up new commemorative stamp issues that generate a nice stream of income for the islanders.

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 14 – the world’s most remote pub – the Albatross Bar

The economy of Tristan da Cunha relies on the export of crawfish, also known as Tristan rock lobster, which can be found in hotels as far away as China and Las Vegas.  Said to be some of the most delicious lobster on earth according to lobster connoisseurs, this rare variety of crustacean boasts ultra-sweet, pearl white meat that is both delicate and firm in texture. We enjoyed this delicacy as a lobster salad (in a tart and on sandwiches and plain) at the café in the “post office” building, enjoying lunch on picnic tables outside.  On the ship, we had procured lots of lobsters and were fortunate to enjoy large, steamed freshly caught lobsters for dinner in one of our restaurants each of the two nights that we were there.

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 15 – while the pub focuses on drinks, it is possible to get some bar “bites”, including – occasionally – something made with the local rock lobster

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 16 – Calshot Harbor which has no docking pier – is limited to Zodiacs, tender boats, small fishing boats, and barges (which are used to bring in supplies from the occasional supply ships from Cape Town). 

Tristan Da Cunha, British Overseas Territory, photograph # 17 – distances to other “nearby” locales; interesting tidbit: according to reports, no one has ever been arrested for crime by the single policeman on the island

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.)

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 1 – the capital of the Falkland Islands, quintessentially British, with a population of only about 3,000, is located on the northeast corner of East Island

Capital of the Falkland Islands, Port Stanley (population ~3,000, about 75% of the country’s total) is located on the northeast corner of East Island.  Quintessentially British, it is home to the Government House, home of the islands’ governors; the Anglican Christ Church Cathedral, a massive stone-and-brick construction with beautiful stained-glass windows, a colorful metal roof; and the restored Whalebone Arch.  After spending a couple of days on the nature preserve islands of the Falkands, it was a little jarring to come ashore and find red British “telephone booths” outside the post office and have British fish and chips for lunch at a café in the heart of the small town.  Port Stanley’s excellent inner and outer harbors attracted the early British settlers because of the protection afforded their sailing ships.  Stanley was an important base for Antarctic whaling operations and a British naval base during World War II, but its port now serves mostly merchant ships and some cruise ships.

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 2 – this brick building, built in colonial times in 1887, is now home to the non-profit Falklands Conservation organization

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 3 — the restored Whalebone Arch

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 4 – the Anglican Christ Church Cathedral, the southernmost Anglican cathedral in the world, was built in 1890-1892 from local stone and brick, with a tower with five bells and, inside, an organ from Ireland that was installed in 1893, a year after the cathedral was opened

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 5 – the interior of the Anglican Christ Church Cathedral

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 6 – kneeling cushions with local scenes, beautifully needlepointed by parishioners at the Anglican Christ Church Cathedral

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 7 – Victory Green was officially named in 1919 to mark the end of the “Great War” (World War I)

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 8 — Stanly House was constructed of imported bricks in Stanley in 1878 by the Falkland Islands Company Ltd as a home for their Colonial Managers and was the only brick building in town; it was bought by the Falkland Islands Government to use as a boarding house for Camp (farm) children coming to school in Stanley

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 9 – in the center of Victory Green in central Stanley is a mizzen mast from the original SS Great Britain, a former passenger steamship (also with several masts for sail power) built in Bristol, England, in 1843, then, by far, the largest vessel afloat

So why is a mast from the SS Great Britain on the waterfront park in Port Stanley?  “In 1882 Great Britain was converted into a sailing ship to transport bulk coal  She made her final voyage in 1886, after loading up with coal and leaving Penarth Dock in Wales for San Francisco on 8 February. After a fire on board en route she was found, on arrival at Port Stanley in the Falkland Islands, where she ran aground, to be damaged beyond economic repair.   She was sold to the Falkland islands Company and used, afloat, as a storage hulk (coal bunker) until 1937, when she was towed to Sparrow Cove, 3.5 miles (5.6 km) from Port Stanley, scuttled and abandoned.” – Wikipedia

A postscript that shows that some sunken ships do have an “afterlife”!  “In 1970, after Great Britain had been abandoned for 33 years, Sir Jack Arnold Hayward, OBE, (1923–2015) paid for the vessel to be raised and repaired enough to be towed north through the Atlantic back to the United Kingdom, and returned to the Bristol dry dock where she had been built 127 years earlier.  Hayward was a prominent businessman, developer, philanthropist and owner of the English football club Wolverhampton Wanderers.  Now listed as part of the National Historic Fleet, Great Britain is a visitor attraction and museum ship in Bristol Harbour, with between 150,000 and 200,000 visitors annually.” — Wikipedia

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 10 – residences in Port Stanley

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 11 – an old “peat house” with a front of open-slatted wood to allow the winds in for additional drying, for storing locally dug up, and then dried, peat for a home, for use as a heating (and cooking) fuel

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 12 – the Falklands high school

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 13 — Government House was built in 1845 and is home to the Governor of the Falkland Islands

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 14 – a memorial “To Those Who Liberated Us” [from the Argentinians] in the Falklands War on 14 June 1982; the Falklands were occupied for 75 days before the United Kingdom liberated it

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 15 – the Falklands War memorial

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 16 – note the iconic red British “telephone booths” outside the town post office

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 17 – St. Mary’s Catholic Church

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 18 – the home of the Falklands Distillery

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 19 — the office of the weekly Penguin News newspaper, published every Friday, providing news and features about the islands

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 20 – an austral summer maintenance job – painting a home

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 21 – the Intrepid Explorer and your blogger watching archaeologist and director of exploration on the expedition in 2022 that found the sunken Shackleton ship, Endurance, Mensun Bound, signing our copy of his recent book, The Ship Beneath the Ice: The Discovery of Shackleton’s Endurance

We were very fortunate that marine archeologist and explorer, Mensun Bound – born in the Falkland Islands and a summer resident in Port Stanley, and professor emeritus at Oxford University in England, the country he resides in for 9 months a year — shared his incredible journey to find Endurance, the lost ship of Sir Ernest Shackleton, in an illustrated lecture in our ship’s auditorium before we headed ashore in Port Stanley.  Later that afternoon a small group of us visited Mensun Bound and his wife at their home In Port Stanley where he told additional stories and background on the two expeditions that he led on ice breakers in the Weddell Sea, using autonomous vehicles, to find the sunken ship Endurance (found on the ocean floor in about 10,000 feet [3,048 meters] of water).  Endurance was last seen in 1915, when Shackleton and his 27 men watched in dismay as the ship, crushed by ice, sank into the icy depths.

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 22 – a copy of the 2022 expedition’s autonomous vehicle’s photograph of the well-preserved stern deck of the sunken Shackleton ship, Endurance, on the ocean floor in about 10,000 feet [3,048 meters] of water

Port Stanley, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 23 – at a local store we found a lone bottle of a modern, aged Scotch whisky that is named Shackleton, contemporarily produced by the same distillery in Scotland that made the 25 cases of Shackleton’s favorite whisky that were taken on his Nimrod expedition of 1907 – Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt Whisky; 11 intact bottles containing this perfectly preserved whisky were recovered from under the ice beneath Shackleton’s base camp in Antarctica in 2007!  This contemporary Scotch whisky was blended by Mackinlay’s Master Blender to resemble the 1907 blend

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.)

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 1 – there was detritus all over our Zodiac landing beach from the 1982 war fought between the United Kingdom and Argentina over the Falklands (the U.K. won, and in a vote a few years ago, 99.8 % of the Falklands population voted to stay British)

Kidney Island is a small island in the Falkland Islands and a National Nature Reserve, just 10 miles [16 kilometers] from the islands’ capital city. Stanley (or, Port Stanley).  The island can only be reached by boat and is just 30 minutes away from Stanley.  Like many of our earlier Falkland Island landings, Kidney Cove is a gently sloping sandy beach.  It is part of the Murrell Farm, Kidney Island is a small island in the Falkland Islands and a National Nature Reserve, just 10 miles [16 kilometers] from the islands’ capital city. Stanley (or, Port Stanley).  The island can only be reached by boat and is just 30 minutes away from Stanley.  Like many of our earlier Falkland Island landings, Kidney Cove is a gently sloping sandy beach.  It is part of the Murrell Farm, covering 10,000 acres [4,046 hectares], with species of penguins and waterfowl.  On our hike across the island (from one beach to another, and back), we first saw a Gentoo penguin colony and then our first King penguins of the expedition – the brightly colored and second tallest of the 17 penguin species.  The latter are truly spectacular and very photogenic.  Unlike most of the main islands, Kidney Island is still covered in tussac grass.

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 2 – as we started a hike across the island, we quickly came upon a small Gentoo penguin colony overlooking Kidney Cove and our Zodiacs coming and going

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 3 — a 5-minute walk from the beach took us to a Gentoo penguin colony on a hill

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 4 – in the circle of life, two turkey vultures had breakfast on a dead Gentoo penguin while the rest of the colony looked around

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 5—the islands’ terrain contains much peat (like the Scottish Hebrides islands) that historically was used as fuel (instead of coal) for cooking stoves and fireplaces/heating stoves

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 6 – we were very excited after a 30-minute hike across the island to find a small colony of colorful King penguins, the first we saw on this expedition

The king penguin is the second largest species of penguin, smaller, but somewhat similar in appearance to the emperor penguin.  King penguins are characterized by their dignified, upright posture, long bill, and vivid coloration.  “Adults have black feathers on their back, white feathers on their chest and underside, and bright orange feathers on their ear patches and just below their throat.  Adults also display an orange teardrop-shaped patch on the lower part of the bill.  Fully grown king penguins may reach 85–95 centimeters (33–37 inches) in length and weigh 14–17 kilograms (about 31–37 pounds), with males weighing slightly more than females.  The plumage of juveniles is similar to that of adults; however, many of their black feathers have gray tips, yellow feathers cover the ear patches, and grayish white feathers colour the lower neck.  King penguin chicks are covered with a thick down of dark brown feathers until they molt [the shedding or casting off of an outer layer or covering and the formation of its replacement] at 10–12 months of age… Ecologists maintain that there are between one million and two million breeding pairs worldwide, and this number is increasing.  During the 19th and 20th centuries king penguins were harvested for blubber, oil, eggs, and feathers until a commercial hunting ban was put into place in 1969.  Although poaching has continued, it has been insignificant.” — www.britannica.com/animal/king-penguin

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 7 – a stately King posing for a portrait

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 8 – King penguin grooming time

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 9 – when we finished our cross-island hike, we went down to the beach there and watched three King penguins walk, frolic, and groom on the beach

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 10 – grooming during break time from the beach walk

Kidney Cove, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 11 – a portrait of a grooming King penguin back at the King penguin colony

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.)

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 1 — frequented by 18th-century sealers, the island was inhabited in the late 1870s and now is a working sheep farm that was founded and still owned by the Napier family, who warmly welcomed us to their home for morning tea after our hiking across (and back) the island

Overnight, from Carcass Island, we sailed north, along the western edge of West Falkland (and all the Falkland Islands) to reach an anchorage off West Point Island the next morning.  “Well-named West Point Island is one of the furthest points in the northwest of the Falklands archipelago.  Known originally as Albatross Island (and Isla Remolinos in Spanish), this 5.5 square miles [14.2 square kilometers] of grassy rock has some of the most stunning scenery to be found in the islands.

“West Point is a working sheep farm and is owned by the Napier family, who will warmly welcome you to their home, and it is a very popular site to visit.  As its original name implies, you can walk ross the island to be welcomed by the calls and shrieks from the huge colony of black-browed albatross that live here. In fact, more than two-thirds of the world’s entire albatross population breed here in the Falklands!

“You are able to follow a path through the tussock grass right next to the colony that is actually a mixture of Black-browed Albatross and Southern Rockhopper Penguins, the penguins nesting between the raised nests of the albatross colony.  It is a superb location to observe these two iconic Falklands species up close.

“Magellanic Penguins also breed nearby and other notable bird species include Striated Caracaras, Cobb’s Wrens, Blackish Cinclodes, and White-bridled finches.  In fact, there are so many important species here that West Point Island has been formally listed as an Important Bird Area (IBA).

“The other thing you’ll get on West Point is fantastic Napier hospitality!  Your group will be welcomed with traditional tea, cake, and biscuits as well as an invitation to walk around the island gardens.” — www.polartours.com/highlights/westpoint-island

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 2 – the island is a working sheep farm, referred to in the Falkland Islands as a “camp”, that was founded in 1879 and is still owned by the Napier family (currently, Roddy Napier); originally the islands were known as Malvinas (Islands)

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 3 — frequented by 18th-century sealers, the island was inhabited in the late 1870s

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 4 – some of the many colorful lichens on rocks on the island

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 5 – we hiked 1.2-miles [2-kilometers] across open, rolling countryside from the landing beach to reach “Devil’s Nose” across the island, a promontory home to Rockhopper penguins and Black-browed albatross

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 6 — “Devil’s Nose” was the take-of point for dozens of Black-browed albatross

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 7 – a Black-browed albatross in flight off “Devil’s Nose”

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 8 — another Black-browed albatross in flight off “Devil’s Nose”

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 9 — “Devil’s Nose”

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 10 — “Devil’s Nose” is a rocky promontory with dramatic sandstone cliffs, where rocky ledges and areas of tussac grass are home to Black-browed albatross and Rockhopper penguins

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 11 – mating Black-browed albatrosses

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 12 – hiking back to our landing beach, we spotted this long-tailed meadow Lark sitting atop a fence post adjacent to a large field of grass that was dancing in the strong winds

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 13 – flowering gorse (ulex) is a species of thorny evergreen shrubs in the subfamily Faboideae of the pea family Fabacaea; little known fact: gorse flowers are edible and can be used in salads, teas and to make a non-grape-based fruit wine

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 14 — an attractive settlement is nestled on the hill above the sheltered harbor where we landed, the original farmhouse is where Kiki served us a lovely morning tea that we enjoyed on tables in the sunny back yard

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 15 – our hostess was Kiki who has sailed around the world on a small sailboat for 35 years (the past 8 years in the Falklands); she personally baked all the tea biscuits and cakes

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 16 — fantastically sheltered flower and vegetable gardens are situated near the farm buildings, with easy access from the farmhouse’s backyard, after morning tea

West Point Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 17 – the view from the farmhouse as we began our walk back downhill to the sandy beach where we boarded Zodiacs for the ride back to our ship

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.)

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 1 – we were greeted at our Zodiac landing beach by a colony of Gentoo penguins

From New Island, Falkland Islands, we sailed north over lunch to another small island, Carcass Island.  “Despite the name, Carcass Island off West Falkland is not a burial site, nor a place where whales were hauled ashore for processing.  It is, in fact, a beautiful and unspoiled island some 6 miles long that was named after the ship that first mapped it, HMS Carcass in 1766.

“Carcass Island lies in the northwest of the Falklands and has been a sheep farm for more than a century.  Despite this commercialization, Carcass Island has been carefully and sympathetically managed for wildlife.  Coupled with the fact that no rats or cats have ever been introduced here, it makes Carcass a haven for birdlife, including a number of species elusive on the larger islands, such as Cobb’s Wren and the Blackish Cincloides or Tussacbird, and it is an important area for conservation and protection of species.

“For a small island, it boasts several habitat types.  From cliffs and rocky slopes in its northeast to sheltered sandy bays in the northwest, from 700ft uplands to tussac-rich coastal paddocks.  Carcass Island is also home to one of the few areas of mature trees in the whole islands, winter storms tending to make large-scale tree growth difficult.  These hardy plants aren’t native species, however, with some interesting varieties from places as far-flung as New Zealand and California.

“The birdlife is the star of the show on Carcass.  With no land predators, several freshwater ponds, and excellent habitat management, this designated Important Bird Area (IBA) is home to many species significant to conservation.  These include black-crowned night herons, Falkland steamer ducks, ruddy-headed geese, black-browed albatrosses, and striated caracaras.

“There is a healthy penguin population on Carcass, including gentoos, Magellanics, and southern rockhoppers.  Seals are also a common sight in the waters around the island and hauled up on the sandy beaches, including fur and elephant seals. Dolphins and sea lions are also spotted here.” — www.polartours.com/highlights/carcass-island

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 2 – a close-up of a Gentoo penguin

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 3 – an inland colony of Gentoo penguins

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 4 – the Gentoo penguin colony had a good view of our landing beach

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 5 – Gentoo penguin chicks in the foreground

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 6 – the first Magellanic penguin that I spotted on the island, in tuft grass

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 7 – a close-up of the Megallanic penguin

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 8 – we hiked several miles/kilometers across the island to reach an old house where the local proprietor was going to serve us tea

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 9 – the hillside terrain was terraced

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 10 – a nice looking beach on the island

Carcass Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 11 – we found the “tea house” but, unfortunately, the proprietor got his signals crossed and thought we were coming the next day, so we had hot drinks back on the ship

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.)

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 1 – the first of the Falkland Islands that we landed on, New Island is located at the extreme southwest of the Falklands’ archipelago; its dramatic cliffs contrast with sheltered sandy bays and natural harbors and the island has a large concentration of, and great diversity of, wildlife – it is now administered as a nature preserve

After two hours of sailing along the western edge of A23a Iceberg, the largest iceberg in the world – and seeing only 40% of the length of the iceberg in that time! – we then headed north-northeast into the dreaded Drake passage to sail for two days to reach the Falkland Islands.  Our expedition included four days of exploration of the islands, mostly by Zodiac landings on various small islands with lots of interesting flora and fauna, and the first expedition viewings of rockhopper penguins, Magellanic penguins, black browed albatross, Imperial cormorants, and King penguins, everyone’s favorite.

The Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) are a remote South Atlantic archipelago in the South Atlantic Ocean, located about 300 miles [480 kilometers] east of South America’s southern Patagonian coast and about 752 miles [1,210 kilometers] from Cape Dubouzet at the northern tip of the Antarctic Peninsula.  With rugged terrain and cliff-lined coasts, its hundreds of islands and islets are home to sheep farms and abundant birdlife.  The islands have a total population of about 3,500, with over 75%of the island’s residents living in the capital, Stanley, located on East Falkland, the largest island.  The town’s Falkland Islands Museum has themed galleries devoted to maritime exploration, natural history, the 1982 Falklands War and other subjects.

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 2 – the setting for these few homes on the island reminded us of a tiny New England village in the United States; here the homes overlook Coffin’s Harbour

“Ruggedly beautiful and remote, New Island is located at the extreme west of the Falklands’ archipelago.  Dramatic cliffs contrast with sheltered sandy bays and natural harbors.  New Island has a large concentration and great diversity of wildlife.  It is also one of the driest places with an annual rainfall of less than 40 centimeters (16. inches).  The [island’s] pretty settlement [whose sandy beach we landed our Zodiacs on] overlooks Coffin’s Harbour, possibly named after a whaling captain.  One of the earliest residents of the island was Captain Charles H. Barnard of the whaler Nanina.  He was stranded here with four crew members for around eighteen months in 1813-14.  The ‘Barnard Building’ has origins dating back to 1813, and was restored in 2006 to house an interesting exhibition of whaling memorabilia as well as telling the story of Barnard and providing information about the island’s wildlife.” — — www.falklandislands.com/our-islands/new-island

New Island was one of the earliest of the Falkland Islands to be colonized, and American whalers may have arrived as early as the 1770s.  New Island was used by American sealers beginning in the 1770s, and by 1860, it became a sheep farm.  

“The remains of the first and only land-based whaling station in the Falklands are in South Harbour.  The station closed in 1916 as operations were relocated to South Georgia where whale catches were larger… no sealing or whaling activities are practiced in the Islands today.  Some of the best wildlife experiences are just a short distance from the settlement.  At Settlement Rookery, formidable sea cliffs are home to black-browed albatross, king cormorants and rockhopper penguins creating an amazing cacophony of sounds. Great views are easy to find and time drifts away effortlessly whilst watching the rockhoppers landing in the surf and scaling the rocky heights before them and the albatross soar along the coastline.” — www.falklandislands.com/our-islands/new-island

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 3 – remains of a wreck in the “cruise ship” harbor, on the beach where Captain Charles H. Barnard, from Nantucket, Massachusetts, USA, was marooned with his crew on the island in 1813

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 4 – the Barnard Building, built in 1813 by the marooned Charles H. Barnard and his crew, is now a museum, restored in 2006

“In 1813, Captain Charles H. Barnard, from Nantucket, was marooned with his crew on the island.  They survived on the island for two years, and constructed a crude stone building, which is probably incorporated into the Barnard Building, the oldest standing building in the Falklands and now a museum restored in 2006.  In December 1814, Indispensable, William Buckle, master, and Asp, John Kenny, master, rescued them.” — Wikipedia

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 5 – male and female geese on our Zodiac landing beach, beside the shipwreck [see photograph #3, above] and below the Barnard Building [see photograph # 4, above]

“The Falkland Islands derive their name from Falkland Sound, the name given to the waterway between East and West Falkland by Captain John Strong, who spent several days in the Islands on his ship Welfare in 1690.  Falkland Sound was itself named after Viscount Falkland, one of the owners of Welfare.  Captain Strong was the first person to have been recorded as landing in the Islands, although the first reported sighting was by English navigator Captain John Davis in 1592.

“The Falkland Islands have never had any native inhabitants and no indigenous people have ever been displaced, instead the Islands were entirely unoccupied until 1765, when they were first claimed by the British who established a garrison at Port Egmont.  Over the years, the British, French and Spanish periodically had garrisons within the Islands until 1811 when all were withdrawn.  On 6 October 1832, an Argentine military garrison arrived in an attempt to establish sovereignty over the Falkland Islands, disregarding the British claim of 67 years prior.  Less than three months later, on 2 January 1833, the Royal Navy evicted the military base with no loss of life.  The civilian population, who had sought permission from Britain to live there, were invited to stay.  A year later, a small, permanent British administration was established and in 1845 Stanley become the capital.

“We enjoyed a peaceful existence until 1 April 1982, when an Argentine military force invaded our home.  For 74 days we lived under foreign occupation, until our liberation by British forces on 14 June 1982.  Nearly 1,000 Falkland Islands, British and Argentine lives were lost as a result of the war.

“Since 1982, our lives have been transformed, we have become financially self-sufficient and almost entirely self-governing, we determine our own future and way of life.  Our community has been formed through voluntary immigration and settlement over the course of nearly two hundred years.  We are a diverse society, with people from over 60 nations having made the Islands their home.  At our heart are those Falkland Islanders whose families have been in the Islands for nine generations.

“In 2009 our new Constitution was established which provides enhanced local democracy, internal self-government and enshrines the right of self-determination.  Four years later in 2013, we held a referendum which was overseen by international observers, where 99.8% of the electorate voted to remain a British Overseas Territory.” — www.falklands.gov.fk/our-history

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 6 – tuft grass on Barnards Hill that we hiked up and across to reach Rookery Hill and the Rookery Hill North Cliffs

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 7 – flowers in the islands’ austral summer

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 8 – Barnards Hill had several longs swaths of this reddish grass

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 9 – close-up of the reddish grass on Barnards Hill

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 10 – these massive rock outcroppings overlook the Rookery Hill North Cliffs

New “Island has, until recently, been owned and managed by the New Island Conservation Trust, set up in 1995 by Falklands-based conservationist Ian Strange MBE.   Since then, the island has been run as a wildlife reserve and a centre for scientific research.  From the 1st July 2020, the New Island Conservation Trust merged with Falklands Conservation, a larger conservation charity based in the Falkland Islands, and the management of this incredible site is now overseen by Falklands Conservation (incorporating the New Island Conservation Trust).” — www.newislandtrust.com

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 11 – the remains of the supports for an old gate used when there was sheep grazing on the island

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 12 – after 5 weeks in the snow, ice, icebergs, and glaciers of Antarctica, it was exciting to see grass waving in the wind on Barnards Hill

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 13 – our walk from our Zodiac landing beach across the island (and Barnards Hill) terminated at Rookery Hill [see photographs, below] and these Rookery Hill North Cliffs

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 14 – a close up of the waves hitting the Rookery Hill North Cliffs

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 15 – the rookery on Rookery Hill was home to a large black browed albatross colony (including many grey-colored chicks), with many rockhopper penguins mixed in

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 16 – black browed albatross mates with their chick in the nest; these majestic birds mate for life, returning to the same nesting site year after year; we caught sight of the tender interactions between mated pairs while caring for their chicks

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 17 – an albatross chick in its nest

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 18 — rockhopper penguins are characterized by their red eyes and a crest of black feathers that stands upright on the top of their heads — intermingled here with the black browed albatross on Rookery Hill

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 19 – the black browed albatross and rockhopper penguins are “good neighbors” on Rookery Hill

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 20 – a black browed albatross in flight, off Rookery Hill; as one expedition team member noted, “the close sight of these magnificent seabirds gracefully gliding in the air left us in awe”

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 21 – another black browed albatross in flight, off Rookery Hill; note that albatross have the largest wingspan of any flight birds

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 22 – an Imperial shag (Imperial cormorant) on Rookery Hill; these black and white cormorants are native to South America, primarily in rocky coastal regions

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 23 — an imperial shag (imperial cormorant) in flight, off Rookery Hill

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 24 – rockhopper penguins shown here on the edge of the nesting albatross on Rookery Hill

We observed many of the rockhopper penguins jumping off the cliff (“hopping” off the “rocks”) to enter the water in search of food.  They can dive to 100 meters (330 feet) for several minutes and can stay swimming in the ocean for days at a time.

New Island, Falkland Islands, British Overseas Territory (B.O.T.), photograph # 25 – another pair of rockhopper penguins

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2024 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Exploring and Photographing by Sea – a Commemorative Post: # 1,000 (2015–2016)

2015 — Entering the Lemaire Channel (an average of one mile [1.6 km] in width), Antarctica

It seems like yesterday when we flew to the Seychelles for our first journey as Resident/owners on our apartment ship, but here we are, 999 blog posts later.  To celebrate the milestone of blog post # 1,000 of “exploring and photographing by sea”, we have decided to do a retrospective of some of our favorite photographs from the past nine years.  This was a hard series of four posts to put together, culling through about 10,000 of our photographs that we have published over that period.  If a photograph gets you interested in that particular location (the site should be identified in the caption), use the “search” bar provided by WordPress when online — not when reading an emailed blog post — at:

richedwardsimagery.wordpress.com

Enjoy our retrospective!

2015 — Humpback whale in Dallmann Fjords off Northern Anvers Island, Antarctica

2015 — Rooftops, viewed from the city wall, Dubrovnik, Croatia

2015 — Tasting room on an island on the pond at Stark-Conde Winery, Stellenbosch, South Africa

2015 — The two urban sectors adjoining the main square at Machu Picchu with the main temple and the Intihuatana stone on the hilltop on the left, center; Peru

2015 — Three Gentoo Penguins on iceberg in Dallmann Fjords off Northern Anvers Island, Antarctica

2015 — Typical residential balcony, Cartagena, Colombia

2016 — The “Jordan Staircase”, so-called because on the Feast of the Epiphany the Tsar descended it in state for the ceremony of the “Blessing of the Waters”; it retains Rastrelli’s 18th century rococo style; The Winter Palace, St. Petersburg, Russia

2016 — The Lanzaroteños created an ingenious method of growing grapes from the arid ground, to create a wide variety of red, white and rose wines, Lanzarote, Canary Islands

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Touring Bermuda (Island)

The Princess Hotel is one of the top hotels in Bermuda and is centrally located blocks from the heart of Old Town Hamilton, the capital of Bermuda

Bermuda is a British island territory in the North Atlantic Ocean known for its pink-sand beaches such as Elbow Beach and Horseshoe Bay.  While many people think that Bermuda is part of the Caribbean Islands, it is located approximately 700 miles (1,127 kilometers) north of the Bahama Islands.  Bermuda’s massive Royal Naval Dockyard complex combines modern attractions like the interactive Dolphin Quest with maritime history at the National Museum of Bermuda.  The island has a distinctive blend of British and American culture, which can be found in the capital, Hamilton [see our previous blog post, “Sailing into Hamilton, Bermuda”].  Before the COVID-19 worldwide pandemic, over 650,000 people visited Bermuda each year – 10 times the resident population.

The Princess Hotel has a stunning art collection, both indoors and outdoors; here Mickey Mouse looks out at Hamilton Harbor, Bermuda

An arch overlooking Hamilton Harbor on the well-manicured and beautifully landscaped grounds of the Princess Hotel, Bermuda

“Bermuda was first settled in 1609 by shipwrecked English colonists headed for the infant English colony of Virginia.  The first industry on the islands was fruit and vegetable cultivation to supply the early American colonies.  The islands took a carefully unofficial role during the American War of Independence, with much of Washington’s armaments coming from a covert (and likely locally complicit) raid on the island’s arsenal [near St. George’s on the northeastern side of the island].   After US independence and during the Napoleonic wars, Great Britain found itself without access to the ports now on the US east coast.  Because of this situation and Bermuda’s convenient location between British Canada and Britain’s Caribbean possessions, Bermuda became the principal stopover point for the British Royal Navy’s Atlantic fleet, somewhat similar to Gibraltar.

“The American Civil War and American Prohibition both added considerably to the island’s coffers, with Bermuda forming an important focal point in running the blockades in both cases.  During the Second World War, a large US air base was built on the islands and remained operational until 1995, and Bermuda served as the main intercept centre for transatlantic cable messages to and from occupied Europe.

“Tourist travel to Bermuda to escape North American winters first developed in Victorian times.  Tourism continues to be important to the island’s economy, although international business has surpassed it in recent years, turning Bermuda into a highly successful offshore financial centre.

“In 1968, Bermuda gained a constitution, but the British Government determined that Bermuda was not ready for independence, eventually making Bermuda a British Dependent Territory in 1981.  A referendum on independence was soundly defeated in 1995.  For many, Bermudian independence would mean little other than the obligation to staff foreign missions and embassies around the world, which can be an onerous obligation for Bermuda’s small population.” – www.wikitravel.org/en/Bermuda

Towne Hall, St. George’s, Bermuda

St. Peter’s Church, built in the early 1600s, is the oldest Protestant church in continuous use in the New World; St. George’s, Bermuda

The sign outside St. Peter’s Church is very welcoming: “The people of St. Peter’s Church welcome you as a pilgrim and visitor to this ancient house of prayer.  Here, at the heart of the historic town of St. George, the community has gathered for worship since the town’s founding in 1612.  St. Peter’s is the oldest Anglican Church outside the British Isles, and the oldest Protestant church in continuous use in the New World.  St. Peter’s is a cultural and spiritual icon of Bermuda and an integral part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Town of St. George.”

St. George’s Historical Society Museum, St. George’s, Bermuda

By local law, ALL Bermuda residences must have a roof rainwater collection system with pipes leading to an on-site (in the house) cistern, as there is no fresh water available in Bermuda from rivers, streams, lakes or wells; note the shape of the roof and the pipe on the side of the house leading to the cistern

The Black Cemetery, St. George’s, Bermuda; “Here lie the remains of Free Blacks, Black Slaves, Native Americans and Carib Indian Slaves”

Winner, best commercial or community garden in Bermuda, 2013, St. George’s in Bloom Garden Competition

Fort St. Catherine, St. George’s, Bermuda, was the site of the first building in Bermuda; since 1612 it has been rebuilt and extended many times in the late 19th century

The original St. Catherine fort was built around 1614, but it was renovated at least five times.  Work continued until late in the 19th century.  Today the stone-built St. Catherine fort houses a museum and is one of Bermuda’s most impressive structures.  The Fort was defended by 5 canons, each weighing 18 tons (16,329 kilograms) and were capable of penetrating thick iron plates.  Visitors can stroll through the magazine (ammunition storehouse) and see numerous pistols, swords, muskets and maybe the Fort Ghost.  Replicas of the British Crown Jewels are also on display.

One of the original British canons at Fort St. Catherine keeps sentinel over the Atlantic Ocean, Bermuda

The historical freshwater cistern on Hawkins Island, Bermuda, is still fed by rainwater falling on the two large white-surfaced areas on the hill; it may be the largest such freshwater cistern in Bermuda

Elbow Beach, on the south side of Bermuda, is one of the very popular “pink” sand beaches; on our mid-day visit, the long, sandy beach was virtually empty and very enjoyable for our stroll up and down the coast

Our ship at dock along Front Street in Hamilton, Bermuda

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2021 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Sailing into Hamilton, Bermuda

Sailing into Hamilton Harbour in Hamilton, Bermuda, we learned from a local resident that many of the hotels, restaurants and retail shop buildings along Front Street (adjacent to the quay) are owned by the “40 Thieves”, the nickname for small group of old families that are descendants of the original Bermudian pirates who began operating out of Berumda in the late 1600s

Hamilton, the capital and beating heart of Bermuda, blends cosmopolitan style with local flavor and idyllic natural beauty.  Facing the harbor, tropically hued colonial buildings along Front Street house quaint shops, high-end boutiques, and popular restaurants, cafés and bars.  Daytime is excellent for scootering around the narrow streets to discover the Royal Naval Dockyard and to meet local artists at the Bermuda Arts Centre or venturing out to the pristine beaches (some with Bermuda’s signature PINK sand) and the Crystal Caves.  Late afternoons are reserved for British-style high tea, while evenings are spent late-night dining and discovering jazz clubs.  Attractions like the Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity and the Bermuda National Gallery illustrate the city’s architectural and cultural history.

White’s Island – owned by the government — is an island located in Hamilton Harbour in Hamilton, Bermuda, and is the only island directly adjoined on all sides by the harbor

“Bermuda, lying in the Atlantic some 600 miles east of South Carolina, imports nearly everything, including its economy.  That economy is based on two elements: tourism and what is known here as “exempt companies,” international corporations in such fields as finance and insurance that maintain corporate headquarters here to avoid taxes.” – The New York Times.  It should be noted that Bermuda’s economy is very highly dependent on the United States.  In fact, the Bermuda dollar is pegged 1.000 to 1.000 to the U.S. dollar and U.S. dollars are accepted widely on the island as currency.

Facing the harbor, tropically hued colonial buildings along Front Street house quaint shops, high-end boutiques, and popular restaurants, cafés and bars, Hamilton, Bermuda

A telephoto view of downtown Hamilton, Bermuda, taken as we sailed into the harbor and then docked in the center of town parallel to Front Street; prominent in this photograph are the two towers of “Sessions House”, or Bermuda Parliament

A view of some of the shops on Front Street just to the west of our docked position at Pier #6, Passenger Terminal, Front Street, Hamilton, Bermuda

Trivia:  In June 1980, John Lennon came to Bermuda to escape the hustle of New York City.  It’s rumored that he experienced a burst of creativity upon visiting jazz clubs along Front Street and was inspired to compose more than 25 songs, including “Woman” and “(Just Like) Starting Over.”

While there is a variety in the architectural styles of the buildings in Hamilton, Bermuda, the influence of the British is very strong

City Hall (which also houses an art centre), Hamilton, Bermuda

The gothic Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (Anglican), built in 1869 of native stone and imported Caen stone, is the mother church of the Anglican diocese in Bermuda; Hamilton, Bermuda

The gothic Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity (Anglican), designed by Scottish architect William Hay, is the mother church of the Anglican diocese in Bermuda.  It is an Anglican Church built in 1869 of native stone and imported Caen stone.  The pulpit is modeled after St. Giles in Edinburgh, the copper roof stands out among Bermuda’s white-topped buildings, and the tower offers panoramic views of the city of Hamilton and the harbor.

A church painted in the classic Bermuda “pink” color, Hamilton, Bermuda

“Sessions House”, home to both Bermuda’s House of Assembly and Supreme Court is where locals and visitors can visit a session of Parliament, Hamilton, Bermuda

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2021 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat local: Restaurante Gavião Novo, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal)

Homemade buttered Madieran-style bread at the beginning of our luncheon with friends at Restaurante Gavião Novo, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal), that specializes in local fish and seafood

After our morning tour of Funchal, Madeira, we joined some friends for lunch at a local restaurant with Madeiran cuisine (specializing in local fish and seafood), Restaurante Gavião Novo (“New Sea Gull”), in Old Town.  The fish available changes daily, depending on what the local fishermen catch.  Some of their fish specialties include Grilled Scabbard Fish (very local) — called espada — Sardines, Seafood Rice and Mixed Paella.  Among Madeiran delicacies, espada (Portuguese: Peixe Espada) — the black scabbard fish, so named because the long, thin fish, which lives at depths of 2500 feet (800 meters), was observed back in 1635 to resemble a sword – is considered the most significant local dish.  Espada bodies look like a long black eel (about a meter (3 feet, 3 inches) long) with fang-like teeth, no scales, large eyes and shiny black skin.  We had also never had limpets, so we all enjoyed appetizers of grilled local limpets.  [Limpets are a group of aquatic snails that exhibit a conical shell shape and a strong, muscular foot.]

An appetizer of grilled limpets, Restaurante Gavião Novo, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal); [Limpets are a group of aquatic snails that exhibit a conical shell shape and a strong, muscular foot]

An appetizer of local octopus “Gavião Novo”, Restaurante Gavião Novo, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal)

Espada “Gavião Novo”, Restaurante Gavião Novo, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal)

Mixed fish (espada, swordfish and angler jack) and mixed seafood (grilled limpets, a langoustine, calamari and mussels), Restaurante Gavião Novo, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal)

With highlights the first weekend of October, the annual Madeira Flower Festival is a cultural event celebrating the profusion and variety of Madeira’s flora through parades, folk group performances, the construction of beautiful floral carpets, and a flower market and exhibition in the city center; the Intrepid Explorer is visible on the far left edge of the photograph, walking

The Madeira Flower Festival is an annual cultural event celebrating the profusion and variety of Madeira’s flora through parades, folk group performances, the construction of beautiful floral carpets, and a flower market and exhibition in the city center.  The festival this year runs from 1-24 October.  On Saturday morning, October 2nd, hundreds of children made their way to Praça do Município (the Old Town Plaza across from City Hall) to build a flower mural named “Wall of Hope.” The highlight of the festival was the Allegoric Parade the next day.  Dozens of floats parade through the city center, intricately decorated with the island’s native flowers and followed by participants adorned in floral costumes created by Madeiran artists.

A flower carpet, courtesy of a local hotel, on display near the Cathedral of Funchal, Madeira (Portugal), for the Flower Festival

Hundreds of children made their way to Praça do Município (the Old Town Plaza across from City Hall) to build a flower mural named “Wall of Hope”, Funchal, Madeira (Portugal)

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2021 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.