Drink local: Annapolis Valley Wines, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 8, 2023 by richardcedwards

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 1 – the first winery we visited in the valley was one of the oldest in the region, the premier estate of Domaine de Grand Pré

One wouldn’t think the weather on Nova Scotia Island would support table wine grape growing (and vinification into wines). So, we were surprised to find out that we could join a small group and drive 90-minutes northwest from Halifax to the Annapolis Valley region (around the town of Wolfville), which is the center of the grape vineyards and wine producing region for the province. The cultural landscape of the area was praised by UNESCO as “…an exceptional example of the adaptation of the first European settlers to the conditions of the North American Atlantic coast” when it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012. The region has been producing wine grapes since the 1600s. Our ship’s Beverage Manager personally recommended visits to Domaine de Grand Pré and Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards in the Annapolis Valley, which became our day’s itinerary.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – note the netting on some of the vines at Domaine de Grand Pré – to protect the grapes from birds

Our first visit was to the winery Domaine de Grand Pré, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage site. After a wine tasting in the tasting room (and retail area for the winery), we went up to an outdoor patio and enjoyed a multicourse lunch prepared by the winery’s excellent restaurant, Le Caveau.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – the wine production area at Domaine de Grand Pré is on the lower level of the main building, with the tasting room and retail area above (on the ground level)

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 – the wines we tasted at Domaine de Grand Pré

A glass of Nova Scotia Brut lead off our tasting, followed by two white varietals, both produced from hybrid varietals suited to the climate (L’Acadie Blanc and Tidal Bay), one local indigenous red varietal field blend, and a desert “ice cider”, Pomme d’Or (made by pressing the juice of naturally frozen apples and then fermenting it, like traditional apple cider) – ice cider is similar in production to ice wine, using the juice of frozen fruit. Domaine de Grand Pré focuses on growing hybrid grapes created to withstand Nova Scotia’s harsh winters – mostly developed in the labs of the Canadian wine institute. Note that Tidal Bay wines are described as the very essence of Nova Scotia in a glass – the wines are described as “cool, crisp, lively and aromatic” and are considered the perfect pairing for Nova Scotia seafood.

“Since 2011, Nova Scotia wineries have been producing the region’s signature white wine style known as Tidal Bay. Tidal Bay is an appellation of origin wine, created by the Winery Association of Nova Scotia (WANS) in the model of fine European wine regions. To create a wine labelled as Tidal Bay, not only must the wineries adhere to a long list of production standards and craft their wines from a curated list of varietals, each wine must pass the judgement of a panel of experts to ensure the wine has the characteristic aromas and flavours of Nova Scotia’s terroir. The wines must be “fresh, crisp, dryish, still, white with a bright, ‘signature Nova Scotia’ aromatic component”, and the results have been phenomenal!” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

What is an appellation? “In the wine world, the term ‘appellation’ refers to both a geographical boundary and a set of rules governing the production of wines within that region. In most New World regions, the appellation simply ensures the grapes are sourced from the place indicated on the label. Tidal Bay, like its European counterparts, is much more than simply an assurance of the source of grapes. Tidal Bay is governed by a strict set of rules of production including the grapes allowed to make Tidal Bay and the techniques used to produce it.” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the vista of the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy, viewed from a view park developed by the local community

After our delicious luncheon at Domaine de Grand Pré, with some paired wines, we had a tour of the vineyards and then walked north across the east-west road at the northern edge of the property to enter the view part overlooking the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is called “Le Paysage deGrand Pré” (The Landscape of Grand Pre2).

“Designated as the first rural historic district of national significance in 1995 and placed on Canada‘s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2004, the landscape of Grand Pré and bodies, the spirit of collaboration that enabled both its creation, and it’s ongoing preservation.

“Nomination Grand Pré, the group, which prepared the UNESCO submission, wanted to create a lasting legacy for the communities of Grand Pré, North Grand Pré, Hortonville and Lower Wolfville. Community residents chose as legacy the development of a viewing area overlooking this unique agricultural and symbolic landscape.

“In 2011, and initiative led by several community members and supported by the government of Canada, the municipality of the County of Kings, businesses and individuals resulted in the acquisition of this property. Thanks to a partnership between Parks Canada and Nomination Grand Pré, and through the direction provided by members of the legacy committee, this view park was developed an open to the public in 2012.” – signage at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Le Paysage de Grand Pré

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 — Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, the second winery we visited, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown

The second winery we visited, Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown. In a typical year, the area is well-suited for growing European varietals that do well in cooler climates, such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Note that 2023 was a disaster weather-wise, and many wineries in the region lost most, if not all, of their European-varietal grapes. The vines were damaged, and it will be next year before the vineyards can be evaluated as to their ability to produce a new harvest, or if the vines must be replaced.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 7, 2023 by richardcedwards

Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history. One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon. A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature. The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.

Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000. K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq. “Halifax is a navy creation. It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard. At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – located on the Atlantic Ocean, the port of Halifax is North America’s first inbound and last outbound gateway to Europe

“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax. For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade. Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada.

“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic. He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.

“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria. He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – a statue of an immigrant family in the Halifax waterfront near the cruise terminals and the Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) is a reminder of much of the city’s roots as a Canadian center for immigration, especially for people leaving Europe and central Europe

Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 — located near downtown is the vibrant Halifax waterfront, surrounded by scenic views; buzzing with energy, the 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Halifax Harbourwalk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844)

The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax. The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749. The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Historic Properties are a collection of historic buildings on Halifax’s downtown and boardwalk

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – we passed by many interesting stores and restaurants in the historic section of Halifax’s downtown – here is “The Black Market Boutique” with psychedelic paintings and signage

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 — Halifax is an eclectic mix of old and new that is a delight for both locals and tourists

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the Halifax Public Library, with its stunning modern exterior design, is one of the standout public buildings in Halifax

More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture. Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books. Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – one of the five corners of the “star”-shaped Halifax Citadel that forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site . The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856. Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — sitting in the shadow of The Citadel is the Town Clock, a three-story octagon tower atop a one-story white building; the clock overlooks most of downtown Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – the north end of the Halifax waterfront and interior neighborhoods were developed more recently and have a variety of contemporary architecture buildings

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 — the entrance to the Halifax Public Gardens, opened in 1867, that emanates a delightful Victorian character

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 14 – the gazebo and one of many statues in the Halifax Public Gardens

Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character. Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand. The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 15 – the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian era public garden that was designated as a Canadian National Historic site in 1984

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 16 – another interesting mix of the old and the new, downtown

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 17 – three stunning, well preserved historic buildings with vibrant retail stores today (pun intended, as “Venus Envy” is a sex shop)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 18 – these former warehouses on the waterfront were developed by Historic Properties into warehouses containing restaurants, retail shops and entertainment facilities

“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city. The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies. This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”

On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea. We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 19 – no visit to the Halifax waterfront is complete without a take-away order of some form of the national food, poutine; it is regarded as one of the most quintessential Canadian dishes

“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy. It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia

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Tag Archives: Halifax

Drink local: Annapolis Valley Wines, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada