Drink local: Annapolis Valley Wines, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 8, 2023 by richardcedwards

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 1 – the first winery we visited in the valley was one of the oldest in the region, the premier estate of Domaine de Grand Pré

One wouldn’t think the weather on Nova Scotia Island would support table wine grape growing (and vinification into wines). So, we were surprised to find out that we could join a small group and drive 90-minutes northwest from Halifax to the Annapolis Valley region (around the town of Wolfville), which is the center of the grape vineyards and wine producing region for the province. The cultural landscape of the area was praised by UNESCO as “…an exceptional example of the adaptation of the first European settlers to the conditions of the North American Atlantic coast” when it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012. The region has been producing wine grapes since the 1600s. Our ship’s Beverage Manager personally recommended visits to Domaine de Grand Pré and Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards in the Annapolis Valley, which became our day’s itinerary.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – note the netting on some of the vines at Domaine de Grand Pré – to protect the grapes from birds

Our first visit was to the winery Domaine de Grand Pré, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage site. After a wine tasting in the tasting room (and retail area for the winery), we went up to an outdoor patio and enjoyed a multicourse lunch prepared by the winery’s excellent restaurant, Le Caveau.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – the wine production area at Domaine de Grand Pré is on the lower level of the main building, with the tasting room and retail area above (on the ground level)

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 – the wines we tasted at Domaine de Grand Pré

A glass of Nova Scotia Brut lead off our tasting, followed by two white varietals, both produced from hybrid varietals suited to the climate (L’Acadie Blanc and Tidal Bay), one local indigenous red varietal field blend, and a desert “ice cider”, Pomme d’Or (made by pressing the juice of naturally frozen apples and then fermenting it, like traditional apple cider) – ice cider is similar in production to ice wine, using the juice of frozen fruit. Domaine de Grand Pré focuses on growing hybrid grapes created to withstand Nova Scotia’s harsh winters – mostly developed in the labs of the Canadian wine institute. Note that Tidal Bay wines are described as the very essence of Nova Scotia in a glass – the wines are described as “cool, crisp, lively and aromatic” and are considered the perfect pairing for Nova Scotia seafood.

“Since 2011, Nova Scotia wineries have been producing the region’s signature white wine style known as Tidal Bay. Tidal Bay is an appellation of origin wine, created by the Winery Association of Nova Scotia (WANS) in the model of fine European wine regions. To create a wine labelled as Tidal Bay, not only must the wineries adhere to a long list of production standards and craft their wines from a curated list of varietals, each wine must pass the judgement of a panel of experts to ensure the wine has the characteristic aromas and flavours of Nova Scotia’s terroir. The wines must be “fresh, crisp, dryish, still, white with a bright, ‘signature Nova Scotia’ aromatic component”, and the results have been phenomenal!” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

What is an appellation? “In the wine world, the term ‘appellation’ refers to both a geographical boundary and a set of rules governing the production of wines within that region. In most New World regions, the appellation simply ensures the grapes are sourced from the place indicated on the label. Tidal Bay, like its European counterparts, is much more than simply an assurance of the source of grapes. Tidal Bay is governed by a strict set of rules of production including the grapes allowed to make Tidal Bay and the techniques used to produce it.” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the vista of the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy, viewed from a view park developed by the local community

After our delicious luncheon at Domaine de Grand Pré, with some paired wines, we had a tour of the vineyards and then walked north across the east-west road at the northern edge of the property to enter the view part overlooking the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is called “Le Paysage deGrand Pré” (The Landscape of Grand Pre2).

“Designated as the first rural historic district of national significance in 1995 and placed on Canada‘s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2004, the landscape of Grand Pré and bodies, the spirit of collaboration that enabled both its creation, and it’s ongoing preservation.

“Nomination Grand Pré, the group, which prepared the UNESCO submission, wanted to create a lasting legacy for the communities of Grand Pré, North Grand Pré, Hortonville and Lower Wolfville. Community residents chose as legacy the development of a viewing area overlooking this unique agricultural and symbolic landscape.

“In 2011, and initiative led by several community members and supported by the government of Canada, the municipality of the County of Kings, businesses and individuals resulted in the acquisition of this property. Thanks to a partnership between Parks Canada and Nomination Grand Pré, and through the direction provided by members of the legacy committee, this view park was developed an open to the public in 2012.” – signage at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Le Paysage de Grand Pré

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 — Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, the second winery we visited, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown

The second winery we visited, Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown. In a typical year, the area is well-suited for growing European varietals that do well in cooler climates, such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Note that 2023 was a disaster weather-wise, and many wineries in the region lost most, if not all, of their European-varietal grapes. The vines were damaged, and it will be next year before the vineyards can be evaluated as to their ability to produce a new harvest, or if the vines must be replaced.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 7, 2023 by richardcedwards

Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history. One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon. A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature. The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.

Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000. K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq. “Halifax is a navy creation. It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard. At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – located on the Atlantic Ocean, the port of Halifax is North America’s first inbound and last outbound gateway to Europe

“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax. For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade. Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada.

“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic. He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.

“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria. He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – a statue of an immigrant family in the Halifax waterfront near the cruise terminals and the Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) is a reminder of much of the city’s roots as a Canadian center for immigration, especially for people leaving Europe and central Europe

Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 — located near downtown is the vibrant Halifax waterfront, surrounded by scenic views; buzzing with energy, the 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Halifax Harbourwalk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844)

The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax. The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749. The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Historic Properties are a collection of historic buildings on Halifax’s downtown and boardwalk

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – we passed by many interesting stores and restaurants in the historic section of Halifax’s downtown – here is “The Black Market Boutique” with psychedelic paintings and signage

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 — Halifax is an eclectic mix of old and new that is a delight for both locals and tourists

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the Halifax Public Library, with its stunning modern exterior design, is one of the standout public buildings in Halifax

More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture. Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books. Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – one of the five corners of the “star”-shaped Halifax Citadel that forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site . The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856. Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — sitting in the shadow of The Citadel is the Town Clock, a three-story octagon tower atop a one-story white building; the clock overlooks most of downtown Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – the north end of the Halifax waterfront and interior neighborhoods were developed more recently and have a variety of contemporary architecture buildings

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 — the entrance to the Halifax Public Gardens, opened in 1867, that emanates a delightful Victorian character

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 14 – the gazebo and one of many statues in the Halifax Public Gardens

Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character. Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand. The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 15 – the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian era public garden that was designated as a Canadian National Historic site in 1984

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 16 – another interesting mix of the old and the new, downtown

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 17 – three stunning, well preserved historic buildings with vibrant retail stores today (pun intended, as “Venus Envy” is a sex shop)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 18 – these former warehouses on the waterfront were developed by Historic Properties into warehouses containing restaurants, retail shops and entertainment facilities

“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city. The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies. This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”

On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea. We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 19 – no visit to the Halifax waterfront is complete without a take-away order of some form of the national food, poutine; it is regarded as one of the most quintessential Canadian dishes

“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy. It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on September 20, 2023 by richardcedwards

Leaving St. John’s, Newfoundland, Canada and sailing west for almost 2 days, we arrived in Sydney, Nova Scotia, Canada — missing the strong winds of former Hurricane Lee, which passed through the west end of Nova Scotia while we waited out the storm in Newfoundland. Sydney is located on the southeastern arm of Sydney harbor, at the mouth of the Sydney River, on the eastern end of Cape Breton Island, which forms the east side of the province of Nova Scotia.

“Founded in 1785 as a haven for loyalists and named for Thomas Townshend, Baron Sydney (later Viscount Sydney; then colonial secretary), it served as the capital of Cape Breton Island until 1820, when the island was united with Nova Scotia. The population increased considerably during the early 19^th century with the influx of large numbers of immigrants, especially from the Highlands of Scotland, and again in the early 20^th century after a major steel plant was opened there. It was incorporated as a town in 1886 and as a city in 1904.

“Sydney is situated on an excellent harbour in the heart of an extensive coal-mining region, and the regional municipality forms Nova Scotia’s second largest industrial complex (after Halifax [which we sail to in early October]). There are also aluminum, automobile-assembly, concrete, and woodworking plants, fishing (including lobster) industries, and a ship-repairing drydock. The Sydney area is the eastern terminus of the mainland portions of the Trans-Canada Highway and the Canadian National Railway [which are linked to the mainland section of Nova Scotia Province by ferry]; there also are ferry connections to Newfoundland.” — www.britannica.com/place/Cape-Breton-Island

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – classical buildings in downtown Sydney – Lillian Company Marketplace and the Old Sydney Society, a small museum featuring various displays related to Cape Breton County’s natural and social history (in the old Bank of Montreal building)

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – the United Heritage Church

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 – a beautifully painted private home a few blocks from the heart of downtown

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – Wentworth Park is an urban park created in 1786, just a year after Sydney’s founding

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 — the talent of local artisans is celebrated at the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design

Founded to promote excellence in craft and design, the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design represents more than 100 artisans from Cape Breton Island. On display and for sale are jewelry, pottery, wood and glass products, visual arts, and crafts in other mediums. There is also a space for regional, national, and international exhibitions.

A sign over the interior entrance notes, “Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design is located in Unama’ki, the land of the fog, the conceded and traditional territory of the Mi’kmaq. At the Centre we strive to honour and uphold the Treaties of Peace and Friendship made with the Mi’kmaq by celebrating the ongoing tradition of beautiful and creative craftsmanship of the First Peoples of this land.”

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – paintings and turned wood by local artisans at the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 – a close-up of some beautiful turned maple burlwood pieces at the Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the first outdoor piece of art in “Downtown Sydney Art Walk”, with the Intrepid Explorer posed in front of “Spread Your Wings” by artist David MacAskill

The Downtown Sydney Association organized a self-guided walking tour of the city’s outdoor art and cultural institutions, with a map and descriptions online, called “Downtown Sydney Art Walk”. We were able to find most of the art pieces and have included photographs of several in the following photographs.

About “Spread Your Wings”, artist David MacAskill noted “’ I wanted to depict various landmarks in and around Downtown Sydney that residents and visitors would be familiar with and that could be a tourist attraction. I wanted my wing design to be a snapshot of our Downtown. An installation that a visitor could look at and say ‘I saw that; I was there’, a reminder of their visit. The wing design features our Sydney Fire Station No. 1, the historic St. Georges Church, the famous Big Fiddle, the gazebo at Wentworth Park, Sydney Boardwalk and Charlotte Street shops.”

Note that the 55-foot-tall (16.8 meters) outdoor fiddle sculpture in the first photograph, above, is art piece #9 on the tour. Located at the Joan Harriss Cruise Pavilion at the pier, the “Largest Ceilidh Fiddle in the World” was created by Cyril Hearn.

“Nothing is more symbolic of Cape Breton’s cultural heritage; nothing speaks better of the musical delights within our Island – hence a 55-foot-tall fiddle symbolizing our musical tradition. The fiddle is 20 times larger than a standard fiddle; the fiddle measuring 42’4” and the bow is 52’4”. It is raised 3 feet off the ground and is the world’s largest fiddle.

“Cyril Hearn of Cape Breton Fabricators made the fiddle of welded 3/16 steel plate. It weighs more than 10 tons. The body is nearly 15 feet wide and 25 feet tall. The fiddle strings and bow are also made to accurate scale in stainless steel aircraft cable. People come into Sydney from all over to view this amazing instrument and admire the workmanship and skill required to put it together. The construction of the fiddle was videotaped at all stages, and the footage plays regularly in the Lighthouse Theatre for the benefit of our visitors and tourists.

“Following consultations with Hector McNeil, a professor of Gaelic studies at UCCB, a name for the fiddle was selected. The Gaelic word Ceilidh has as its original meaning “visit” – the common usage though is a visit, usually with music and entertainment. The Corporation thought it appropriate that this icon carry a name that reflects these connections; hence, the name FIDHEAL MHÒR A’ CHÈILIDH© or THE BIG CEILIDH FIDDLE©.

“It was further determined that THE BIG CEILIDH FIDDLE be commissioned or “tuned” at its naming ceremony with a dedicated medley. A local musician, Kinnon Beaton, was asked to compose the Sydney Ports medley. It consists of a march, a strathspey, and a reel. The Corporation decided to name these tunes in honour of people from the community who were involved in the early efforts of developing cruise ship activity at Sydney.” — Downtown Sydney Art Walk website, www.downtownsydney.ca/downtownsydneyartwalk

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – “Spread Your Wings” in front of the Cape Breton Regional Library, by artist Fern Donovan, who noted, “The intention behind my wing design was primarily in reference to, and appreciation of the Cape Breton Regional Library and their Sydney branch downtown.”

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — “Checking the Traps & The Lifesaver” by artist Peter Steele

The Downtown Sydney Association noted that “this fisherman mural is one of Sydney’s newest murals. It was a part of Sydney Downtown Development Association’s Project: Makeover Downtown Sydney 2022/2023 grant program. The artist worked with the property owner and business (Cape Breton Fish & Marine Supply) to create a piece of art that not only is reflective of the business offerings, but it also noticeable from surrounding areas and adds to the downtown experience and speaks of the island culture.”

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – “Reconciliation”, by artists Loretta Gould and Peter Steele

Artists Loretta Gould and Peter Steele noted, “A project of the Cape Breton Regional Municipality, the intent of the mural is to express the importance of reconciliation of the colonialization of our nation’s indigenous peoples, and to inspire a thoughtful and meaningful process between indigenous and non-indigenous Canadians with a design developed by both an indigenous and non-indigenous artist. Using elements of Mi’kmaq culture, the mural shows the importance of friendly and constructive dialogue between non-indigenous people and our First Nations people.”

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 – two murals commissioned by the Highland Arts Theatre in 2017 by artist Allan Ryan

The Downtown Sydney Association noted that the “two murals were commissioned by the Highland Arts Theatre in 2017. [They] feature characters from the original casts of two Highland Arts Theatre original musicals – Heart of Steel (2015) and The Return of the Cape Breton Liberation Army (2017). The photo used for reference for Heart of Steel was by Chris Walzak. The actors that inspired the likenesses are Margaret MacPherson, Kristen Woodford, Maureen MacAdam, and Hilary Scott (Heart of Steel) and Frank McKibbon as the CBLA General. The image that inspired the CBLA General was created by Paul MacKinnon and was based on a photograph taken by Jess Hardy of local actor Frank McKibbon. The dog in the bottom left corner is the artist’s dog, Hubble!”

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Exploring and photographing by sea

Tag Archives: Nova Scotia

Drink local: Annapolis Valley Wines, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Sydney, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia, Canada