Drink local: Annapolis Valley Wines, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 8, 2023 by richardcedwards

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 1 – the first winery we visited in the valley was one of the oldest in the region, the premier estate of Domaine de Grand Pré

One wouldn’t think the weather on Nova Scotia Island would support table wine grape growing (and vinification into wines). So, we were surprised to find out that we could join a small group and drive 90-minutes northwest from Halifax to the Annapolis Valley region (around the town of Wolfville), which is the center of the grape vineyards and wine producing region for the province. The cultural landscape of the area was praised by UNESCO as “…an exceptional example of the adaptation of the first European settlers to the conditions of the North American Atlantic coast” when it was inscribed on the World Heritage List in 2012. The region has been producing wine grapes since the 1600s. Our ship’s Beverage Manager personally recommended visits to Domaine de Grand Pré and Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards in the Annapolis Valley, which became our day’s itinerary.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – note the netting on some of the vines at Domaine de Grand Pré – to protect the grapes from birds

Our first visit was to the winery Domaine de Grand Pré, in the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage site. After a wine tasting in the tasting room (and retail area for the winery), we went up to an outdoor patio and enjoyed a multicourse lunch prepared by the winery’s excellent restaurant, Le Caveau.

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – the wine production area at Domaine de Grand Pré is on the lower level of the main building, with the tasting room and retail area above (on the ground level)

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 – the wines we tasted at Domaine de Grand Pré

A glass of Nova Scotia Brut lead off our tasting, followed by two white varietals, both produced from hybrid varietals suited to the climate (L’Acadie Blanc and Tidal Bay), one local indigenous red varietal field blend, and a desert “ice cider”, Pomme d’Or (made by pressing the juice of naturally frozen apples and then fermenting it, like traditional apple cider) – ice cider is similar in production to ice wine, using the juice of frozen fruit. Domaine de Grand Pré focuses on growing hybrid grapes created to withstand Nova Scotia’s harsh winters – mostly developed in the labs of the Canadian wine institute. Note that Tidal Bay wines are described as the very essence of Nova Scotia in a glass – the wines are described as “cool, crisp, lively and aromatic” and are considered the perfect pairing for Nova Scotia seafood.

“Since 2011, Nova Scotia wineries have been producing the region’s signature white wine style known as Tidal Bay. Tidal Bay is an appellation of origin wine, created by the Winery Association of Nova Scotia (WANS) in the model of fine European wine regions. To create a wine labelled as Tidal Bay, not only must the wineries adhere to a long list of production standards and craft their wines from a curated list of varietals, each wine must pass the judgement of a panel of experts to ensure the wine has the characteristic aromas and flavours of Nova Scotia’s terroir. The wines must be “fresh, crisp, dryish, still, white with a bright, ‘signature Nova Scotia’ aromatic component”, and the results have been phenomenal!” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

What is an appellation? “In the wine world, the term ‘appellation’ refers to both a geographical boundary and a set of rules governing the production of wines within that region. In most New World regions, the appellation simply ensures the grapes are sourced from the place indicated on the label. Tidal Bay, like its European counterparts, is much more than simply an assurance of the source of grapes. Tidal Bay is governed by a strict set of rules of production including the grapes allowed to make Tidal Bay and the techniques used to produce it.” — www.mynslc.com/Discover/Everything-Local/Tidal-Bay

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the vista of the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy, viewed from a view park developed by the local community

After our delicious luncheon at Domaine de Grand Pré, with some paired wines, we had a tour of the vineyards and then walked north across the east-west road at the northern edge of the property to enter the view part overlooking the UNESCO-designated agricultural and cultural landscape overlooking the Bay of Fundy. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is called “Le Paysage deGrand Pré” (The Landscape of Grand Pre2).

“Designated as the first rural historic district of national significance in 1995 and placed on Canada‘s tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2004, the landscape of Grand Pré and bodies, the spirit of collaboration that enabled both its creation, and it’s ongoing preservation.

“Nomination Grand Pré, the group, which prepared the UNESCO submission, wanted to create a lasting legacy for the communities of Grand Pré, North Grand Pré, Hortonville and Lower Wolfville. Community residents chose as legacy the development of a viewing area overlooking this unique agricultural and symbolic landscape.

“In 2011, and initiative led by several community members and supported by the government of Canada, the municipality of the County of Kings, businesses and individuals resulted in the acquisition of this property. Thanks to a partnership between Parks Canada and Nomination Grand Pré, and through the direction provided by members of the legacy committee, this view park was developed an open to the public in 2012.” – signage at the UNESCO World Heritage Site Le Paysage de Grand Pré

Annapolis Valley, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 — Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, the second winery we visited, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown

The second winery we visited, Lightfoot & Wolfville Vineyards, is known for their small-lot, German-style organic wines that are biodynamically grown. In a typical year, the area is well-suited for growing European varietals that do well in cooler climates, such as Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir. Note that 2023 was a disaster weather-wise, and many wineries in the region lost most, if not all, of their European-varietal grapes. The vines were damaged, and it will be next year before the vineyards can be evaluated as to their ability to produce a new harvest, or if the vines must be replaced.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Posted on October 7, 2023 by richardcedwards

Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history. One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon. A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature. The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.

Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000. K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq. “Halifax is a navy creation. It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard. At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – located on the Atlantic Ocean, the port of Halifax is North America’s first inbound and last outbound gateway to Europe

“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax. For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade. Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada.

“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic. He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.

“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria. He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – a statue of an immigrant family in the Halifax waterfront near the cruise terminals and the Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) is a reminder of much of the city’s roots as a Canadian center for immigration, especially for people leaving Europe and central Europe

Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 — located near downtown is the vibrant Halifax waterfront, surrounded by scenic views; buzzing with energy, the 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Halifax Harbourwalk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844)

The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax. The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749. The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Historic Properties are a collection of historic buildings on Halifax’s downtown and boardwalk

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – we passed by many interesting stores and restaurants in the historic section of Halifax’s downtown – here is “The Black Market Boutique” with psychedelic paintings and signage

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 — Halifax is an eclectic mix of old and new that is a delight for both locals and tourists

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the Halifax Public Library, with its stunning modern exterior design, is one of the standout public buildings in Halifax

More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture. Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books. Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – one of the five corners of the “star”-shaped Halifax Citadel that forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site . The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856. Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — sitting in the shadow of The Citadel is the Town Clock, a three-story octagon tower atop a one-story white building; the clock overlooks most of downtown Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – the north end of the Halifax waterfront and interior neighborhoods were developed more recently and have a variety of contemporary architecture buildings

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 — the entrance to the Halifax Public Gardens, opened in 1867, that emanates a delightful Victorian character

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 14 – the gazebo and one of many statues in the Halifax Public Gardens

Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character. Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand. The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 15 – the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian era public garden that was designated as a Canadian National Historic site in 1984

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 16 – another interesting mix of the old and the new, downtown

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 17 – three stunning, well preserved historic buildings with vibrant retail stores today (pun intended, as “Venus Envy” is a sex shop)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 18 – these former warehouses on the waterfront were developed by Historic Properties into warehouses containing restaurants, retail shops and entertainment facilities

“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city. The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies. This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”

On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea. We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 19 – no visit to the Halifax waterfront is complete without a take-away order of some form of the national food, poutine; it is regarded as one of the most quintessential Canadian dishes

“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy. It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 6, 2023 by richardcedwards

Often when traveling abroad and we have the opportunity to dine in a fine dining restaurant, we often opt for a midday dinner, rather than an evening meal. This frequently enables us to enjoy excellent cuisine in a smaller format (perhaps 3 or 4 courses for a luncheon set menu rather than 6, 7, or more courses in an evening tasting menu) and have a long, leisurely walk afterwards to savor the experience while getting a chance to “work off” a little of the meal with some fresh air strolling.

Unless we had booked way in advance, we weren’t going to be able to dine at Restaurant Toqué, the top-rated restaurant in Montréal. However, we luckily were able to get a reservation the week before, online, for a 1 p.m. luncheon. Our experience brought home the wisdom of both dining midday and wanting to sample some of Restaurant Toqué’s excellent food and service. The photographs below recap our three-course luncheon and the wine pairings that were expertly provided by the sommelier.

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 2 – the light-hearted, colorful entrance to the restaurant, on a ground floor location, facing the street, in a contemporary office building

The website for the restaurant notes their “avant-garde vision: Through Toqué!, Normand Laprise and Christine Lamarche, the co-owners, aimed to create a restaurant based on market-fresh cuisine where the emphasis is placed on local products. To make this happen, they decided to build strong relationships with small producers and focus on traceability of ingredients at a time when those concepts were not in the forefront. Pioneer of a cuisine made with local and seasonal produce, Toqué is now synonymous with a gastronomy rooted in Quebec [Province] and its surrounding regions which draws from the fields, the rivers, the ocean and the forest.”

This spirit and philosophy are noted on the first page of their menus: “Over twenty-five years ago when we created Toqué, we wanted to showcase Quebec products and the people who worked with us to supply us with them. We believe, now more than ever, that we need to continue to emphasize the contribution of these suppliers, who are true artisans. We have them to thank for our products, from duck foie gras to wild samphire, from lamb to our vegetables, and from seafood to fresh herbs. These tireless artisans inspire Toqué’s cuisine, to which they bring various tastes, texture and natural flavors of unparalleled freshness.” Following this introduction is a full-page list of the restaurant’s main suppliers and the artisanal products they provide.

Our online review of distinctions awarded to Restaurant Toqué include ranking number one among restaurants in Montréal; the top 100 restaurants in Canada, including 1^st place in 2015; the top 100 restaurants in the world by Elite Traveler Magazine; and a place on the world’s 50 best discovery restaurants list.

We found a recent Forbes Travel Guide review to be not only succinct, but right on the mark: “Toque! is a luxurious, contemporary French restaurant located across from the Convention Centre and Jean-Paul Riopelle Park. Plates are garnished with such impeccable attention to detail that you may spend several minutes debating whether or not to ruin the presentation. The talented and hospitable chef, Norman Laprise, wields magic with a whisk and uses locally farmed ingredients to create a miraculous menu of sophisticated, avant-garde French fare.”

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 3 – we usually share our courses – this was one of two first courses: Sashimi de thon (tuna sashimi), soya and sesame oil, grilled cucumber, marinated cattail, ginger powder, labneh, dill, gin and beet gel; wine: Québec 2021, Blanc de mémoire, Domaine du Nival, Canada

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 4 – the other first course: Carpaccio d’agneau (lamb carpaccio), saffron mayonnaise, strawberry, rose petal gel, pearl onion, fried capers, grilled radicchio, Parmigiano Reggiano; wine: Rioja 2018, 4 Caminos Tempranillo, Bodegas Moraza, Espagne

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 5 – one of our main courses: Flétan saisi (seared halibut): eggplant with soy and miso glaze, leek, onion mousse, matsutakes, daylily flower button purée, caramelized almonds, beurre blanc; wine: IGP Alpilles 2001, Jaspe, Dominique Hauvette, France

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 6 – our other main course: Contre-filet de boeuf Angus (Angus beef strip loin), pattypan, maïtakés, arugula purée, parmesan gel, potato, foie gras and banyuls sauce; wine: Bordeaux 2015, La Côte de Tire Pé, Château Tire Pé, France

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 7 — one of our deserts: Tartelette à la framboise (raspberry tartelette), sage ganache and gel, raspberry gel , marscarpone ice cream

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 8 – the other desert: Ganache au chocolat Araguani, (Araguani chocolate ganache), pistachio crémeux, honey gel, cocoa nibs nougatine, peach, chrysanthemum flower ice cream; wine: Banyuls 2020, Bila-Haut, M. Chapoutier, France

Eat local: Restaurant Toqué, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 9 – a nice touch for the ending of our excellent luncheon – a double espresso in a beautiful glass (“mug”)

We were very happy that we had the opportunity while in Montréal on this trip to dine at Restaurant Toqué and thoroughly enjoyed our experience. All of the food was exceptional, and the wines were well matched to each course. Service was outstanding and we were made to feel very comfortable and welcome. For anyone visiting Montréal, Restaurant Toqué is very highly recommended!

Walking in downtown and Vieux-Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 4, 2023 by richardcedwards

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 1 – the original 1859 headquarters of the Bank of Montreal (with the dome) dominates the west side of the main downtown square, Place d’Armes (Arms’ Square), originally built in 1693 when it was called Factory Square

On our last day in Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, we walked around the downtown area and parts of Vieux-Montreal (the Old City of Montréal) on a “self-guided” tour, getting some good history on the various sites from an online app, GPSmycity (which has very good maps and details on many sights in about 1,000 cities, worldwide). In between, we splurged with a luncheon at the top-rated downtown restaurant, Toqué [see our next blog post, forthcoming].

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 2 – also on the Place d’Armes (Arms’ Square) are two early 20th century high-rise buildings that mark a distinct architectural shift from the Bank of Montreal building

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 3 – the Monument to Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve – the founder of Montréal in 1642 — in the center of Place d’Armes (Arms’ Square)

“Paul de Chomedey, Sieur de Maisonneuve (1612–76) was the founder and first governor of Ville-Marie (Montréal). Having arrived from France a few months before, he left Puiseaux, in the Québec City region, on 8 May 1642 with two ships headed for Montréal to live with the French settlers. Accompanying him were Jeanne Mance, Mme de La Peltrie, Father Barthélemy Vimont, and Charles Huault, Chevalier de Montmagny… The monument, standing in the centre of a water basin formed of four half-circles, is composed of a pedestal and a square column. The fourteen bronze elements of the composition are articulated around these architectural elements designed by architects Mesnard and Venne.

“Place d’Armes was the perfect spot to celebrate the founder of Montréal, as it was the central square of the historic city. At the top of the square column is the statue of Maisonneuve, founder and first governor of Ville-Marie. His eyes fixed on the horizon, he holds the flag of the king of France in his right hand; his left hand rests on the pommel of his sword. Just below, on the pediment of the column, is a scroll bearing the first coat of arms of the city of Montréal, designed by the city’s first mayor, Jacques Viger.” — https://artpublic.ville.montreal.qc.ca/en

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 4 – the imposing Greek-style columns in the front of the Cour d’Appel du Quebec (the Court of Appeals for Quebec Province), built in 1849, is the highest court in Quebec Province

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 5 – Hôtel de Ville (Montréal City Hall) is the seat of local government in Montreal and was built between 1872 and 1878, in the Second Empire style

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Jean Vauquelin Monument in Vauquelin Place, just south of Montréal City Hall (Hôtel de Ville); the statue depicts an event that took place during the Battle of Pointe-aux-Trembles in the Saint Lawrence River on May 16, 1760, during the French and Indian War

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 7 – the Nelson Monument, adjacent to one of the older buildings in Montréal (now housing the Tourist Information Office), at the top of Place Jacques Cartier, overlooking the old port neighborhood and the Saint Lawrence River

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 8 – the modern building housing the Palais de Justice, a courthouse that was completed in 1971

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 9 – a common sight in Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) – a mixture of contemporary and historic architecture

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 10 – an entrance to Quartier Chinois (Chinatown)

Dating back to the 1860s, Montréal’s Quartier Chinois (Chinatown) is far smaller than many Chinatowns found in other parts of North America. The neighborhood contains many Asian restaurants, food markets, and convenience stores as well as being the home of many of Montreal’s East Asian community centers, such as the Montreal Chinese Hospital and the Montreal Chinese Community and Cultural Centre.

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 11 – contemporary art and older buildings in Quartier Chinois (Chinatown)

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 12 – older buildings on one of the main retail store and restaurant streets in Quartier Chinois (Chinatown)

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 13 – contemporary buildings constructed around an old church

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 14 – Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours (Chapel of Our Lady of Good Help) was built in 1771 as the first pilgrimage site in the Old Port of Montréal for the arrival of sailors who wished to make offerings to the Virgin in gratitude for the “good help” in a safe voyage across the Atlantic

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 15 – old buildings dating back to the 1700s, across the street from Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Bon-Secours (Chapel of Our Lady of Good Help), that was built in 1771

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 16 – back up in the main part of downtown (after lunch) we passed by Christ Church Cathedral on Rue Saint Catherine, the main retail shopping street downtown

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 17 – a statue in Dorchester Square, the main square on Rue Saint Catherine, commemorating the “heroic devotion of the Canadians who fell in South African War and the valor of their comrades”

Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 18 – fall color on the maple leaves was very late this year – these were the first bright colors we saw in several days — in Dorchester Square

Eat local: Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 3, 2023 by richardcedwards

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 1 – the wine bar’s 28-seat interior is greatly expanded in the late spring, summer and early fall with wooden tables and benches on a covered terrace for lingering over great wines and many small plates (heavily plant-based dishes, but seafood, poultry and meats are also served)

It’s always nice to visit a city after our son and his wife have been there, so we can harvest their restaurant recommendations. Weeks before we arrived in Montréal, we recalled that they had very highly recommended a restaurant they noted had some of the most creative plant-based dishes they had seen in a while – Le Vin Paillon. So, do not pass go, we made a reservation for 4 (and invited some friends to join us). This wine bar with small plates for sharing really hit the spot. A little research revealed that the proprietors are also the proprietors of the extremely highly regarded Joe Beef restaurant in Montreal (it turns out the two restaurants are located on the same side of the street on the same block). Also, online research noted that Le Vin Papillon is in the directories “Canada’s 100 Best” and “World’s 50 Best Discovery”, nice recommendations.

The “World’s 50 Best Discovery” website notes: “At this rustic wine bar/restaurant, chef Marc-Olivier Frappier creates a contemporary seasonal menu with an emphasis on plants and vegetables. Simple decor of white brick walls and wooden tables allow colourful small plates designed for sharing to stand out: think smoked meat carrots or wood-roasted cauliflower with crispy chicken skin. Its 3pm opening hours attracts a crowd keen for an aperitif. And the wine list by sommelier Vanya Filipovic is notable for natural vintages.”

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 2 – our first small plate was a bowl of sliced very fresh, ripe local tomatoes

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 3 – the sourdough bread and local butter were excellent, and we had several orders for the four of us over the course of an enjoyable and relaxing 3-hour dinner

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 4 – razor clams with sliced raw fennel

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 5 – our first bottle of white wine was an excellent young Chanterêvres white burgundy, an Aligoté Contrôlee

Bourgogne Aligoté is a delicious white wine that is young, stylish and is a little different. It is pale gold in color and offers a well-balanced taste, and ranges from a fruity bouquet with notes of apple and lemon to a more floral palette. In the mouth, this vibrant wine tickles the taste buds. Aligoté is one of the two local white varietals grown in Burgundy, France, along with Chardonnay.

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 6 – one of the local favorites was also one of ours – sliced ham with cheese and ground black pepper

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 7 – very simply prepared fresh eggplant, served sliced in half with tomatoes and basil leaves

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 8 – a nightly special, sea whelks with artichoke quarters and olives; sea whelks are sea snails that have a swirling, tapered shell

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 9 – grilled fresh, local mackerel served on freshly chopped tomatoes in olive oil, atop grilled sourdough bread

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 11 – very moist boned chicken thighs, with a very crisp skin, served atop a succotash of corn and fresh grapes

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 12 – our last savory dish was fresh broccoli with walnuts and cheese

From a review published on September 25, 2013, by Lesley Chesterman in the Montréal Gazette: “True confessions: I have never taken part in an orgy. But last week I came pretty darn close. Perhaps not sexual in nature, but my olfactory senses were certainly given the most sensual of workouts. I set foot in the restaurant at 6 p.m. and departed somewhere around 11:45 p.m. It was one of those meals that made me fall in love with food and wine and restaurants and Montreal all over again. It happened at Le Vin Papillon.”

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 13 — the wine bar had an excellent selection of dessert and after dinner drinks; this was our selection, served at the table

Le Vin Papillon, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 14 – a delicious almond cake with bits of chocolate and an Ameretto crème sauce pictured with a glass of Nonino amaro

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 3, 2023 by richardcedwards

After we finished shopping at the Jean-Talon Market in Little Italy, Montréal, we went to the very highly regarded Jardin Botanique de Montréal (Montreal Botanical Garden) for an afternoon of leisurely walking around, predominantly in two featured gardens – the Chinese Garden and the Japanese Garden. “Montréal’s Jardin Botanique is the third-largest botanical garden in the world, after London’s Kew Gardens and Berlin’s Botanischer Garten. Since its 1931 opening, the 75-hectare garden has grown to include tens of thousands of species in more than 20 thematic gardens, and its wealth of flowering plants is carefully managed to bloom in stages. The rose beds are a sight to behold in summertime. Climate-controlled greenhouses house cacti, banana trees and 1500 species of orchid.” — www.lonelyplanet.com

“Of the garden’s many greenhouses, 10 are for public display and 23 for service functions and research collections. Its significant collections and special gardens contain commercially important plants, medicinal herbs, alpine plants, woodland plants, ferns, bonsai, cacti and other succulents, begonias, aroids, bromeliads, gesneriads, and orchids. Other notable features include water gardens, a rock garden arranged by geographic region, a First Nations garden with plants of ethnobotanical importance to Native Americans, a collection of cultivatged perennial herbaceous plants for home gardeners, and an arboretum. The Plant Biology Research Institute (Institut de Recherche en Biologie Végétale) of the University of Montreal uses some of the garden’s facilities, and, together, the two institutions form an important botanical research centre.” — www.britannica.com

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 2 this authentic Chinese garden was designed in China to resemble the private garden of a mandarin, and Imperial court, official, in Ming–era (14th to 17th centuries) China

“You are about to enter an authentic Chinese garden design to resemble the private garden of a mandarin, and Imperial court, official, in Ming–era (14^th to 17^th centuries) China. This 2.5 hectare [6.2 acres] space was designed by Chinese architect Lee Weizhong and is one of the largest classical gardens outside of China. The garden is the fruit of friendship between Montréal and Shanghai. It was built entirely in China, then dismantled and shipped by sea to Montréal. Here it was reassembled in 1990 by a team of more than 50 craftsman, brought specially from China. The Dream Lake Garden opened on June 20 , 1991. The Garden’s layout, the plant species and the architecture of the different buildings all reflect age – old traditions. It is a peaceful haven for you to enjoy in the heart of the city, just as people would have done in China and days gone by.“ — signage at the Chinese Garden of the Montréal Botanical Garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 3 — Chinese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 4 — Chinese garden

“The Chinese Garden is constructed along the traditional lines for a Ming dynasty Chinese garden. Covering 2.5 hectares [6.2 acres], it has many winding paths, an artificial mountain, and a building in the Chinese style housing a collection of bonsai and penjing that have been donated. The garden is populated with Chinese plants. The garden was constructed from 1990 to 1991 by 50 artisans from the Shanghai Institute of Landscape Design and Architecture, directed by Le Weizhong. The project required 120 containers of material imported from Shanghai, including 500 tonnes of stone from Lake Tai in Jiangsu province.” – Wikipedia

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 5 — Chinese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 6 — Chinese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 7 — Chinese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 8 — Chinese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 9 — Chinese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 10 – this 2.5 hectares [6.2 acres] Japanese garden, in addition to many acres of landscaping, also includes a building in the Japanese style containing an exhibit on tea

“The Japanese Garden was created in 1988 under the direction of designer Ken Nakajima. Its 2.5 hectares [6.2 acres] are populated with Japanese plants, and it contains a building in the Japanese style containing an exhibit on tea. The Japanese tea ceremony is performed there during the summer, and anyone can take classes to learn more about it. Other traditional Japanese arts, such as laido and Ikebana are occasionally demonstrated there as well. It also includes a large koi pond; visitors often feed the koi. The garden hosts an annual Hiroshiima memorial ceremony on the 5th of August, with the hourly ringing of a Japanese Peace Bell made in Hiroshima.” – Wikipedia

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 11 — Japanese garden

Botanical Garden, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 12 — Japanese garden

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 2, 2023 by richardcedwards

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 1 – one of North America’s largest open-air public markets, its lively atmosphere, authentic character and wide selection of fresh, local produce and specialties from Quebec Province and abroad always make for a pleasant – and appetizing – outing

We were advised not to miss Montréal’s excellent “farmers’ market”, the Jean-Talon Market, that first opened in 1933 in the Little Italy neighborhood in northeast Montréal. “The multicultural flavours and sights of the Jean-Talon Market have been attracting crowds to Little Italy since 1933. One of North America’s largest open-air public markets, its lively atmosphere, authentic character and wide selection of fresh, local produce and specialties from here and abroad always make for a pleasant – and appetizing – outing.

True to its culture and spirit, the Jean-Talon Market showcases local and ethnic eats and a diverse array of merchants. Fruit, vegetable and flower stalls line the walkways alongside a tasty array of specialty shops that feature spices, oils, cheeses, meats, pastries and other exquisite Québec products. Butchers and fishmongers enthusiastically hawk their wares, always ready to share a recipe or recommend something new.

Open year-round, the market changes with the seasons. In the spring, it blooms with a bouquet of annuals, perennials and seeds while the sugary scent of maple treats tickles the nostrils and the sweet tooth. Summertime starts with fresh asparagus and strawberries, then matures into a cornucopia of fresh produce picked daily. Come fall, the market is abuzz with the richness of the harvest, while in winter, it lights up with the festive spirit, Christmas trees, wreaths and all. More than just a place to pick up groceries, the Jean-Talon Market also offers culinary demonstrations, gourmet discovery circuits, workshops and more.” — www.mtl.org/en/what-to-do/food/jean-talon-market-mtl

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 2 – in addition to fresh food products for sale, there were several establishments preparing foods for those who wanted to “dine” at the market – here fresh French-style (Brittany) buckwheat crêpes are being prepared (both savory and sweet)

“A crêpe or crepe is a very thin type of pancake. Crêpes are usually one of two varieties: sweet crêpes or savory galettes. They are often served with a wide variety of fillings such as cheese, fruit, vegetables, meats, and a variety of spreads. Crêpes can also be flambéed, such as in crêpes Suzette.” — Wikipedia

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 3 – the Intrepid Explorer beginning to place our order for fruits and vegetables to purchase and then carry back to our kitchen on the ship for some home-cooked meals in our apartment

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 4

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 5

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 6 – different colored cauliflowers and Romanesco made up brightly colored “Boquet de fleurs”

“Romanesco broccoli is an edible flower bud of the species Brassica oleracea, which also includes regular broccoli and cauliflower. It is chartreuse in color and has a form naturally approximating a fractal. Romanesco broccoli has a nutty flavor and a firmer texture than regular broccoli when cooked.” – Wikipedia

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 7 – maple sugar syrup and candies were the sole products that this local producer had for sale at his stand

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 8

Shop local: Jean-Talon Market, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 9 – we bought some of the homemade raviolis, filled with cheese and pepper (upper right-hand side of the photograph), and enjoyed them for dinner – delicious!

Eat local: Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 2, 2023 by richardcedwards

Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 1 – following a delicious deli brunch, the Intrepid Explorer and some friends, stand in front of the deli with take-home containers of deli specialties to enjoy back on the ship; we all agreed that this definitely deserved to be called an “enduring location for classic Montreal-style smoked meats, sandwiches & other Jewish deli faves”

The Intrepid Explorer and your blogger usually do a little homework before visiting a new locale, particularly if we have the opportunity to try some new local foods. We checked our “homework” with some good friends who live in Montréal over dinner at Ferreira Café — we highly recommend this Portuguese-style seafood restaurant, one of the top restaurants in Montréal — the first night in the city, and got a confirmation that their favorite restaurant for “Montréal-style smoked meat”, and a very popular local favorite, was Snowdon Deli. About a 20-mintue Uber ride from the pier, we headed out the next morning and had a delicious “Jewish Deli” brunch at Snowdon Deli. The Montréal-style smoked meat in our large omelette and a separate Montréal-style smoked meat platter, with a pile of rye bread, mustard, and a vinegar-based delicious cole slaw, was excellent – lean and great tasting. A definite winner of a selection for a Jewish deli and Montréal-style smoked meat.

Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 2 – the inside of the deli is unpretentious and reminded us of a good, old-fashioned New York City [NY, USA] Jewish deli, like Katz’s or the Second Avenue Deli in Manhattan

Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 3 – co-owner Hart Fishman was cubing partially frozen ends of home-smoked salmon for their salmon dip and other dishes when we started a conversation after our delicious brunch

Google describes Snowdon Deli very succinctly: “Enduring location for classic Montreal-style smoked meats, sandwiches & other Jewish deli faves.” Back in 2021, the Montreal Gazette said that “75 years later, Snowdon Deli remains a slice of Montreal life. What keeps loyal customers coming back? It might be the potato salad. It might be the karnatzel. Or, as one of the family business’s co-owners says, it might be because ‘it’s not “I” here — it’s “we”.’ “

The Montreal Gazette went on to say, “Snowdon Deli celebrates its 75th anniversary this month. Its steadfast customers, some of whom have been coming since Day 1, may be undecided as to what the magnet is for them — it’s likely not the deli’s accessibility on the log jammed corner of Décarie Blvd. and Isabella Ave. — but all concur there is nothing quite like it in the city, parking woes be damned. Many of the deli’s staff have been toiling here for decades. They concur there is nothing like it, too. Semper, Snowdon Deli’s longest-serving employee, has been knocking out the slaw and a variety of salads, from bean to cucumber to potato, for 50 years.

“Semper remembers well the Snowdon Deli founders: brothers Abe, Joe and Phil Morantz. What Semper remembers best and respects most is that the three brothers were always there, in smocks, behind the counter, slicing meats, dishing out dills and preparing orders just like the other counter-people… The smoked meat also helps. “The meat melts in your mouth, because it’s so well steamed,” explains Hliaras, who shows off his skills by cutting perfect slices without looking — and without losing any precious digits in the process.

“With the passing of the three [founding] brothers, Snowdon Deli is now owned by the son of Abe, Ian Morantz; the grandson of Phil, Hart Fishman; and the married couple of Yanni Papoulis and Sophy Agelopoulos. Sophy’s dad, John, had been a longtime counterman and co-owner before retiring a few years ago. ‘It takes Sophy, who’s Greek, to remind the Jews, Ian and myself, when the Jewish holidays are coming up and about the various rituals,’ cracks 10-year deli vet Fishman, a pescatarian with the occasional fondness for a karnatzel. ‘She also knows the difference between kasha and kishke.’”

Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 4 – plates of sliced Montreal-style smoked meats ready for delivery to tables

Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 5 – some of their homemade Montreal-style smoked meats right out of the warming steamer, with stacks of nice rye bread and mustard, before being sliced and plated

Snowdon Deli, Montréal, Canada, photograph # 6 – representatives of the two families that own the deli – Hart Fishman (plus a cousin), whose father and grandfather worked in the deli, and Sophy Agelopoulos (plus her husband), members of a Greek family whose father had his first job in America working for in the deli

If the term “Montreal-style smoked meats” is something you’re wondering about, here’s an explanation from the webpage “Deli Slang 101: Decoding the Secret Language of Jewish Delicatessens”: “Unlike corned beef and pastrami, which are made from two different parts of the brisket, smoked meat is made from whole brisket, and the spice blend is a bit more aromatic. Pastrami has black pepper and coriander, while smoked meat includes clove and fennel seed. Traditionally it is dry-cured, whereas pastrami and corned beef are brined in a liquid-based solution.” — https://firstwefeast.com/eat/2016/03/jewish-deli-slang-101

And a postscript: We now understand why our friend from Montreal – with whom we checked our “homework” on where to go for Montreal-style smoked meats — told us that he has now been going to Snowdon Deli for 60 years (he grew up in Montreal).

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 1, 2023 by richardcedwards

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 1 – Place Royale, near the Grand Quai on the Montréal waterfront (where our ship was docked), is the site of the settlement’s first fort, Ville-Marie, and, since 1836, the Old Customs House (in this photograph)

From our pier in Vieux-Québec (Old Québec), Canada we steered back into the Saint Lawrence River to sail overnight further west to the major city of Montréal. Historically rich and culturally diverse, Montréal – part of the French-speaking Quebec Province — is celebrated for its artistic, architectural, and gastronomical attributes, not to mention its status as a hub of innovation. What began as Fort Ville-Marie in 1642 is now the fourth-largest French-speaking city in the world and famed for its European atmosphere, international events, colorful neighborhoods, and noteworthy attractions. Technically, Montréal is set on an island in the Saint Lawrence River, with about 1.8 million people on the island – making it the third most densely populated island in the world. With a greater metropolitan area population of about 4.2 million people, Montréal is the second most-populous city in Canada (after Toronto)

On our first day in the city, we joined a small walking tour of Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) which included a number of local food tastings, introducing us to some of the local favorites, such as “Montréal smoked meat”.

The little square – in front of the Old Customs House, above — in the west side of Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal) marks the spot where the settlement’s first fort, Ville-Marie, was erected. “Defense was a key consideration due to lengthy fighting with the Iroquois. In the 17^th and 18^th centuries this was a marketplace; it’s now the paved forecourt of the 1836 Old Customs House and linked to the Pointe-à-Callière Cité d’archéologie et d’historie de Montréal by an underground passage. The neoclassical building looks much the same today as when it was built, but now serves as the museum’s gift shop.” – www.LonelyPlanet.com

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 2 — many colonial era buildings can be found in Old Montréal, with several dating as far back as the late 17th century; these are on the main north/south street in the neighborhood, Rue Saint-Paul

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 3

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 4 – as we walked uphill towards the main part of downtown Montréal, the architecture shifted from the 1700s and 1800s to the 1900s and twentieth century

“Montreal is a city with considerable French colonial history dating back to the 16th century. It began as a missionary settlement but soon became a fur-trading centre, a role that was enhanced after the conquest of New France by the British in 1763. Montreal’s location on the St. Lawrence proved to be a major advantage in its development as a transportation, manufacturing, and financial centre. From the time of the confederation of Canada (1867), Montreal was the largest metropolitan centre in the country until it was overtaken by Toronto in the 1970s. French Canadians are the majority population in Montreal, which is often said to be the second largest French-speaking city in the world (after Paris), though the accuracy of that statement is sometimes questioned (principally by those who make the same claim for Kinshasa and Algiers). Montreal’s economy, however, was long dominated by an Anglophone minority. The city has been a destination for many immigrants and is widely considered to be one of North America’s most sosmopolitan cities. Montreal remains a city of great charm, vivacity, and gaiety, as well as one of unquestioned modernity.

“Just walking the streets of Montréal is an experience, especially the historic centre known as Old Montreal (Vieux-Montréal), which provides a window into the city’s rich history with its cobblestone streets and architectural styles ranging from the 16th century to the present.” — www.britannica.com/place/Montreal

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 5 – the World Trade Center Montréal comprises historic buildings that are lined together by a glass covered promenade with many ground level retail operations including various types of eateries, art exhibitions, shops and offices

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 6 – we were surprised to come into the promenade of the World Trade Center Montréal and discover this reflecting pool with the classical-style sculpture, a throwback to traditional European city fountains and reflecting pools

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 7 – a close-up of the reflecting pool in the promenade of the World Trade Center Montréal

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 8

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 9 — Basilique Notre-Dame de Montréal (Notre-Dame Basilica of Montréal) is one of several important, historic buildings surrounding the central downtown square, Place d’Armes, that dates back to 1693

“Surrounded by lavish banks, old seminaries, Art Deco buildings and a magnificent cathedral, Place d’Armes is a stunning and architecturally rich square. “Originally built at the end of the 17^th century, Place d’Armes has become a prestigious address in Montréal. The surrounding buildings are remarkable mementos of all the major milestones in the city’s history. Since 1895, a statue of Paul de Chomedey, “Sieur de Maisonneuve,” the founder of Montréal, stands in the centre. Nearby is the city’s oldest building, the “Vieux Séminaire” (130 Notre-Dame Street West), erected between 1684 and 1687, by the Messrs of Saint-Sulpice who ran the Notre-Dame parish and were “seigneurs” of the island of Montréal for nearly two centuries. On the north side of the square sits the Bank of Montréal (119 Saint-Jacques Street West), which was founded in 1817. It is the oldest banking institution in Canada.” — www.mtl.org/en/what-to-do/heritage-and-architecture/place-d-armes

“Montréal’s famous landmark, Notre Dame Basilica, is a 19th-century Gothic Revival masterpiece with spectacular craftsmanship – a visually pleasing, if slightly gaudy, symphony of carved wood, paintings, gilded sculptures and stained-glass windows.

“Originally it was a humble building dating from 1683; The Sulpicians commissioned architect James O’Donnell to design what would be the largest church north of Mexico. It opened in 1829. He converted to Catholicism from Protestantism so he could have his funeral in the basilica and is buried in the crypt. Everything, from the great bell in the western tower to the 1891 organ with its 7,000 pipes and the stained-glass windows depicting the city’s history, speaks of the strong faith of the congregations of yesteryear. The basilica made headlines in 1994 when singer Céline Dion was married under its soaring midnight-blue ceiling, and again in 2000 when Jimmy Carter and Fidel Castro shared pall-bearing honors at the state funeral of former Canadian prime minister, Pierre Trudeau.

“The basilica has a spectacular interior with a forest of ornate wood pillars and carvings made entirely by hand (and constructed without the aid of a single nail). Gilt stars shine from the ceiling vaults and the altar is backlit in evening-sky blues. The stained-glass windows are conspicuous for their depiction of events in Montréal’s history rather than the usual biblical scenes.” — www.lonelyplanet.com

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 10 – BMO Bank of Montréal today operates as the bank’s main Montréal branch, but was built in 1847 as the bank’s headquarters – it is a “a temple of neo-classical architectural excesses”

“For a more than a century Montréal was the unrivaled financial capital of Canada, when local business magnates and tycoons controlled some 85 per cent of the resources in Canada. Many of their families lived in luxurious Edwardian-style mansions located in Montréal’s fabled Golden Square Mile. To put it into perspective, today these Montrealers would be multi-billionaires. These families did their corporate banking with financial institutions whose grand Old Montréal offices and branches were built not just to impress, but to compete for prestige… architectural jewels can be seen and visited while strolling along four blocks on Saint-Jacques Street, which from 1850 to 1950 was to Montréal and Canada what Wall Street is to New York and America.

“Founded in 1817, the Bank of Montreal is Canada’s first bank, whose main office facing Place d’Armes (119 Saint-Jacques Street) was built in 1847. Designed by British architect John Wells, the imposing facade resembles the Pantheon and evokes the power of ancient Rome. The group on the pediment is the work of British sculptor John Steel, and was added in 1867. The lavish interior was redesigned in 1905 and remains in operation today BMO’s main Montréal branch.” — www.mtl.org/en/experience/banks-of-montreal-architectural-heritage

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 11 – returning to the old waterfront from The World Trade Center of Montréal, as we were walking down a street filled with historic buildings, we could see our ship (docked at the pier)

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 12 – the Marceé Bonsecours (Bonsecours Market) is an historic building that now is filled with very good boutique retail shops, including one selling maple sugar products

“Inaugurated in 1847, Marché Bonsecours [Bonsecours Market] is acknowledged as one of Canada’s ten finest heritage buildings and has become an essential stop on any visit to Old Montréal. Headquarters of the Conseil des métiers d’art du Québec (Québec Crafts Council), the Marché houses 15 boutiques featuring top-quality ‘made in Québec’ creations: crafts, fashions, accessories and jewelry, design items, reproduction Quebec furniture and more. Its restaurants and their terraces are opened during warm weather and offer local fare.” — www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca/en/

Vieux-Montréal (Old Montréal), Canada, photograph # 13 – sirop dérable (maple syrup) is a mainstay Canadian product

Île d’Orléans (adjacent to Québec City), Quebec Province, Canada

Posted on October 1, 2023 by richardcedwards

Just outside Old Québec lies a wonderful agricultural gem, Île d’Orléans, known for its incredible views, local wines, agricultural products, and sweets. The Île d’Orléans is located in the middle of the Saint Lawrence River across from the foothills of the Laurentian Mountains, about a 45-minute drive — a slow drive on this tour, due to road construction, for the 5 kilometers [3.1 miles] distance from Vieux-Port (Old Port), Québec City. First settled by the French over 350 years ago, it’s a terrific spot for ago-tourism. We first visited the island on a previous trip to Québec City in 2012. On this visit, we joined a small group from the ship for a guided tour of the island, with several stops for views and touring and tasting our way around the small island.

Our first stop (no photographs) was at La Nougaterie Québec, a producer (on site) of caramel, chocolate, meringue, and bonbon à Île d’Orléans (English: bonbons of the Island of Orleans), where we had various tastings and a chance to see the production facilities. Our second stop was our favorite, Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau, or Bilodeau (apple) orchard and cider house. Here we tasted all types of ciders, alcoholic drinks derived from apple cider, maple syrup and maple butter. Our pantry was nicely supplanted with fresh apples, apple-based and maple syrup-based products upon our return to the ship! We then drove around the north and eastern sides of the island to the southern side where we stopped in the small town of Saint-Laurent-Île-d’Orléans. In addition to an excellent family run small chocolate producer, we visited (across the street and adjacent to the Church of St. Lawrence) Confiturerie Tigidou (English: Tigidou Jam Factory).

We wrapped up our tour with a hike to the base of Montmorency Falls, on the mainland, adjacent to Île d’Orléans.

Île d’Orléans (adjacent to Québec City), Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 2 – this poster depicts the various apple varieties grown in the apple orchard of Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau, or Bilodeau (apple) orchard and cider house

Île d’Orléans (adjacent to Québec City), Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 3 – homemade maple butter and several different alcoholic beverages and ciders were tasted

“Since the days of the first French settlers, agriculture has been the main economic activity. Potatoes, strawberries, apples, blueberries, raspberries and maple syrup is produced. There is also viticulture and cheese production. The island, known as the “Garden of Quebec”, is still an essentially rural place famous locally for its produce, especially strawberries, apples, potatoes and wineries. Sugar maple stands produce maple syrup and other products.

“While the old trades of fishing and boat building have been abandoned, the island’s rich cultural heritage and pastoral scenery has led to a flourishing tourism industry. It attracts more than 600,000 visitors each year. Numerous deb-and-breakfast inns, regional cuisine restaurants, roadside fruit stands, art galleries and craft shops also attract visitors. [There are only six small towns on the island, each independent, giving the island a total population of about 7,000 people, living in about 3,600 dwellings.]“– Wikipedia

Île d’Orléans (adjacent to Québec City), Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 4 — the Church of St. Lawrence) is adjacent to Confiturerie Tigidou (English: Tigidou Jam Factory) in the small town of Saint-Laurent-Île-d’Orléans

Île d’Orléans (adjacent to Québec City), Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 5 — across the street and adjacent to the Church of St. Lawrence), we toured and tasted jams at Confiturerie Tigidou (English: Tigidou Jam Factory)

Montmorency Falls, on the mainland, adjacent to Île d’Orléans, Quebec Province, Canada, photograph # 6 — at 83 meters [272 feet] high, a full 30 meters [98 feert] taller than Niagara Falls, the Montmorency Falls are as spectacular a sight in the summer as in the winter

Montmorency Falls marks the terminus of the Montmorency River, which nearby flows into the St. Lawrence River at Parc de la Chute-Montmorency. In the Park, visitors can admire stunning views from the cable car, from a zipline, a via ferrata (a climbing route in the mountains that employs steel cables, rungs, or ladders fixed to the rock), from the many lookout points throughout the site or from the stairs climbing up the side of the promontory.

Where in the world is Riccardo?

Exploring and photographing by sea

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