Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 1 – Halifax, Nova Scotia’s capital and the largest municipality in the province, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history; its 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Harbor walk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Nova Scotia, Canada’s capital, Halifax, embodies a modern spirit, stunning landscape, and engaging maritime history.  One of Canada’s most visited monuments, the massive star-shaped fort known as The Citadel, towers over a Halifax hilltop and sounds one of its large guns daily at noon.  A stroll through Halifax Public Gardens reveals vibrant blooms and elaborate fountains, and a bike ride or run in Point Pleasant Park offers a contrasting immersion in nature.  The Victorian-era City Hall and the Town Clock stand watch as a dynamic culture thrives within the many art galleries, live music venues, diverse restaurants, and mix of boutiques and international brands. There is no shortage of spectacular city views, whether from the rooftop terrace of the Halifax Central Library, along the energetic waterfront, or from a ferry ride across the harbor.

Halifax is the largest municipality in the Canadian province of Nova Scotia (comprising Nova Scotia Island and Cape Breton Island) with a population of just over 900,000.  K’jipuk’tuk meaning Great Harbour was the name given to the area by the Mi’kmaq.  “Halifax is a navy creation.  It owes its existence largely to its location on one of the largest and deepest ice-free natural harbours in the world, which, over time, made Halifax one of the most important Canadian commercial ports on the Atlantic seaboard.  At latitude 44° N, it is nearly halfway between the equator and the North Pole, giving Halifax a relatively mild winter climate.” — http://www.britannica.com

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 2 – located on the Atlantic Ocean, the port of Halifax is North America’s first inbound and last outbound gateway to Europe

“Samuel Cunard was born in Halifax, Nova Scotia, on November 21, 1787. He was the eldest son of Abraham and Margaret Cunard, United Empire Loyalists who immigrated from Philadelphia (Germantown), [Pennsylvania, USA] to Nova Scotia in 1783. His marriage to Susan Duffus produced nine children, all born in Halifax.  For more than half a century, the S. Cunard & company wharves on the Halifax waterfront where the center of a vast shipping empire engaged in the west Indies trade.  Samuel Cunard became the foremost, entrepreneur in Halifax, and one of the largest owners of sailing vessels in the Maritime Provinces of Canada. 

“Samuel Cunard was a visionary who foresaw steam power replacing sail power on the North Atlantic.  He became the pioneer of ocean steam navigation when a paddle steamer, the first flagship of the British and North American Royal Steam Packet Company, later, known as the Cunard Line, arrived in Halifax, on its maiden voyage from Liverpool, England, on July 17, 1840. The advent of steam power on the Atlantic Ocean altered commerce, and communications between the Old and New Worlds.

“Samuel Cunard, the ‘Steam Lion’ of Nova Scotia, founder of the Cunard Line, was knighted by Queen Victoria.  He died in London, England, on April 28, 1865.” – signage with the statue of Samuel Cunard on the Halifax waterfront

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 3 – a statue of an immigrant family in the Halifax waterfront near the cruise terminals and the Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) is a reminder of much of the city’s roots as a Canadian center for immigration, especially for people leaving Europe and central Europe

Between 1928 and 1971, 1 million immigrants passed through Pier 21, making it a gateway to the country and a site of stories revealing hope, hardship, and resiliency. The Canadian Museum of Immigration (at Pier 21) showcases the crucial role these immigrants played in helping shape Canada and their contributions to society through a series of first person accounts, photographs, artifacts, and thought provoking oral histories.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 4 — located near downtown is the vibrant Halifax waterfront, surrounded by scenic views; buzzing with energy, the 2.5 mile [4 kilometer] Halifax Harbourwalk is lined with shops, restaurants, beer gardens, playgrounds, and public art

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 5 – the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844)

The land for the Old Burying Ground (1749 – 1844) was set aside as a common burial ground outside the stockade old the new fortified town of Halifax.  The first grave was dug on June 21, 1749.  The property was granted to St. Paul’s Church in 1793 and was closed to burials in 1844.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 6 – the Historic Properties are a collection of historic buildings on Halifax’s downtown and boardwalk

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 7 – we passed by many interesting stores and restaurants in the historic section of Halifax’s downtown – here is “The Black Market Boutique” with psychedelic paintings and signage

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 8 — Halifax is an eclectic mix of old and new that is a delight for both locals and tourists

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 9 – the Halifax Public Library, with its stunning modern exterior design, is one of the standout public buildings in Halifax

More than just a quiet spot with an extensive book collection, this world-class, the modern Halifax Public Library is a LEED-certified library known for its striking architecture.  Its exterior was designed to resemble a stack of books.  Visitors can order a coffee from the fifth-floor café and head to the rooftop terrace to enjoy beautiful city views. (The library was closed on Sunday morning when we walked by – the interior is supposed to be both functional, contemporary and beautiful.)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 10 – one of the five corners of the “star”-shaped Halifax Citadel that forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site

Atop a hill overlooking the harbor is this star-shaped stone fortress that has been lovingly restored to its Victorian-era magnificence’ it forms the core of the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site .  The current citadel is the fourth version built to protect the city; the first was completed in 1749 and the last was finished in 1856.   Magnificent widespread harbor views, the “noon gun” firing, and the immersive “Fortress Halifax: A City Shaped By Conflict” exhibit are highlights.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 11 — sitting in the shadow of The Citadel is the Town Clock, a three-story octagon tower atop a one-story white building; the clock overlooks most of downtown Halifax

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 12 – the north end of the Halifax waterfront and interior neighborhoods were developed more recently and have a variety of contemporary architecture buildings

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 13 — the entrance to the Halifax Public Gardens, opened in 1867, that emanates a delightful Victorian character

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 14 – the gazebo and one of many statues in the Halifax Public Gardens

Opened in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens is a sprawling oasis stands within Halifax’ it still emanates a delightful Victorian character.  Highlights include more than 140 different species of trees, colorful blooms, traditional Victorian carpet beds, elaborate fountains, statues, bridges, and a bandstand.  The gardens were bestowed the status of a National Historic Site in 1984.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 15 – the Halifax Public Gardens is a Victorian era public garden that was designated as a Canadian National Historic site in 1984

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 16 – another interesting mix of the old and the new, downtown

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 17 – three stunning, well preserved historic buildings with vibrant retail stores today (pun intended, as “Venus Envy” is a sex shop)

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 18 – these former warehouses on the waterfront were developed by Historic Properties into warehouses containing restaurants, retail shops and entertainment facilities

“From the founding of Halifax, in 1749, until the early 20th century, this portion of the waterfront was associated with men and events prominent in the civic and commercial life of the city.  The seven typical warehouses and offices, erected between 1815 and 1905, housed individual merchants as well as international trading and shipping companies.  This Ironstone building housed the office of the shipping firm, Pickford and Black (1876–19 68). The building opposite was headquarters of the Halifax Banking Company, the first bank established in Nova Scotia (1825–1908), and of its leading entrepreneur, Enos Collins.” – signage on the pier with the “Halifax Waterfront Buildings”

On the wharf pictured in photograph #18, the Intrepid Explorer found a women’s dress shop that had very creative “upside down dresses” designed and tailored in the Halifax region with brightly dyed spandex fabrics from South Korea.  We also had a delightful seafood lunch (including a 2 pound [1 kilogram] fresh steamed local lobster) at Salty’s (Restaurant) on their deck overlooking the harbor.

Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, photograph # 19 – no visit to the Halifax waterfront is complete without a take-away order of some form of the national food, poutine; it is regarded as one of the most quintessential Canadian dishes

“Poutine is a dish of French fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy.  It emerged in Quebec, in the late 1950s in the Centre-du-Québec region, though its exact origins are uncertain and there are several competing claims regarding its invention.” – Wikipedia

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat local: Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostock, (Port of Warnemünde), Germany

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 1 – the waterfront entrance to the #1 rated seafood restaurant in Rostock, Borwin Hafenrestaurant, where we enjoyed an excellent luncheon

After eating typical German fare in Warnemünde at a casual restaurant along the scenic Alter Strom canal the night before (potato pancakes, pork goulash and veal wiener schnitzel), we checked with our local guide and selected the top-rated seafood restaurant in Rostock for lunch the next day with some friends.  We were not disappointed at all – in fact, our luncheon at Borwin Hafenrestaurant in Rostock, along the riverfront, was one of the best meals we’ve had in the past three weeks on this journey across northern Europe.

The restaurant is known for its large selection of fresh fish and seafood.  The day we ate there, we had a choice of 9 types of fresh fish, some prepared as filets, and others as grilled whole fish (for one or more diners).  We also enjoyed some German white wines by the carafe.

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 2 – the marina on the Unterwarnow River in front of the restaurant with some apartment buildings in the distance

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 3 – an appetizer of salmon two ways, sashimi with garnish and tartare

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 4 – The “piece de la resistance” was the giant seafood platter (shared by 2 people) with grilled calamari, grilled octopus, sauteed scallops, prawns in their shell, cold shrimps, and a half lobster

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 5 – beautifully prepared filet of perch on a bed of lightly creamed spinach and mashed potatoes, accompanied by a roasted tomato

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 6 – a desert of fresh local strawberries with whipped cream (schlagsahne) and vanilla ice cream

Borwin Hafenrestaurant, Rostocok (Port of Warnemünde), Germany, photograph # 7 – a wall mural for the restaurant at the back of their parking lot, with local waterfront-facing homes visible, above

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2023 by Richard C. Edwards.  All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

Eat local: Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud at the Merrion Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Exterior of the Merrion Hotel, one of the leading hotels in Europe, that occupies one of the finest, most beautifully restored and best located Georgian buildings in Dublin City Center, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Exterior of the Merrion Hotel, one of the leading hotels in Europe, that occupies one of the finest, most beautifully restored and best located Georgian buildings in Dublin City Center, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

One evening in Dublin we had the pleasure of joining a group from the ship for a tour of the Merrion Hotel, one of the leading hotels in Europe, followed by cocktails and a private dinner at Ireland’s only Michelin two-star restaurants (on the one night a week the restaurant is normally closed).  We were very fortunate to have had three leading Irish officials join the group and make presentations after dinner – offering very insightful perspectives on the current Irish political and economic situation, particularly with respect to the upcoming decisions in the United Kingdom regarding Brexit.

“The Merrion Hotel occupies one of the finest, most beautifully restored and best located Georgian buildings in Dublin City Center.  Our reputation is rooted in a happy marriage of effortless style and unparalleled service, making us one of the finest 5 star hotels Ireland has to offer.  Our 123 guest rooms and 19 suites are light and airy, decorated in colours selected from a subtle palette inspired by one of Paul Henry’s Irish landscape paintings which hangs in the Front Hall of the Hotel… During the spring and summer months, guests can enjoy the tranquillity of the Garden Terrace, while the Drawing Rooms, with their open log fires,  are perfect for Afternoon Tea at any time of the year.  The Tethra Spa’s calming interiors make it an ideal place to unwind, and to restore and invigorate both body and mind.  Whether on a business or a leisure trip why not unwind in our infinity swimming pool and steam room.  The Merrion is home to two bars and two restaurants, including Ireland’s only 2 star-Michelin Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud.” – http://www.merrionhotel.com

 

Georgian Drawing Rooms, The Merrion Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Georgian Drawing Rooms, The Merrion Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

The Merrion Hotel’s 123 guest rooms and 19 suites are light and airy, decorated in colors selected from a subtle palette inspired by one of Paul Henry’s Irish landscape paintings which hangs in the Front Hall of the Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

The Merrion Hotel’s 123 guest rooms and 19 suites are light and airy, decorated in colors selected from a subtle palette inspired by one of Paul Henry’s Irish landscape paintings which hangs in the Front Hall of the Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

The Merrion Gardens, The Merrion Hotel – “As a city centre hotel, The Merrion is uniquely privileged to have two period gardens, designed by Jim Reynolds, the noted Irish landscape artist”, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

The Merrion Gardens, The Merrion Hotel – “As a city centre hotel, The Merrion is uniquely privileged to have two period gardens, designed by Jim Reynolds, the noted Irish landscape artist”, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

The Cellar Bar offers a casual gastro-pub menu in the basement of The Merrion Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

The Cellar Bar offers a casual gastro-pub menu in the basement of The Merrion Hotel, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

Painting in the Merrion Hotel, “The Battle of The Boyne 1690” by Jan Van Huchtenbburg 1647 – 1733. King Janes II was defeated by William of Orange. After the Battle, James fled first to Dublin and then to France

Painting in the Merrion Hotel, “The Battle of The Boyne 1690” by Jan Van Huchtenbburg 1647 – 1733. King Janes II was defeated by William of Orange. After the Battle, James fled first to Dublin and then to France. William, King of England, Scotland & Ireland reigned until his death in 1702. The battle is remembered in Northern Ireland every year on July 12th. Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland- “A truly sumptuous restaurant in an elegant Georgian house; Patrick Guilbaud has run it for over 35 years

Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland: “A truly sumptuous restaurant in an elegant Georgian house; Patrick Guilbaud has run it for over 35 years. Accomplished, original cooking uses luxurious ingredients and mixes classical French cooking with modern techniques. Dishes are well-crafted and visually stunning with a superb balance of textures and flavours” — The Michelin Guide, http://www.viamichelin.com/web/Restaurant/Dublin-D2-Patrick_Guilbaud-35n13bv

 

“Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud holds two Michelin stars, in addition to virtually all top national and international restaurant awards.  This bright, elegant restaurant, situated in an 18th Century Georgian townhouse, adjoins the five-star Merrion Hotel.  Patrick  Guilbaud created his restaurant in 1981, now established as a centre of fine dining for over thirty years… the cuisine is contemporary Irish with classical roots.  Patrick Guilbaud’s pursuit of excellence can be seen in the delicious, immaculately presented dishes, prepared from the finest Irish produce in season.  Service is equally meticulous, combining efficient French decorum with discreet Irish charm, ensuring the delivery of an impeccable dining experience.  Everything is made on the premises, from the wonderful selection of breads to the petit fours… signature dishes include lobster ravioli, roast challans duck for two and assiette gourmande au chocolat… Patrick Guilbauds has an extensive wine list, which includes many fine wines, to delight the most fastidious and discerning connoisseur.” — http://www.ireland.com/what-is-available/food-and-drink/restaurants/

 

A first course of Annagassan Blue Lobster Boudin with Green Apple Jus accompanied by 2017 Chablis, Domain Servin, Vielles Vignes, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

A first course of Annagassan Blue Lobster Boudin with Green Apple Jus accompanied by 2017 Chablis, Domain Servin, Vielles Vignes, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

A first course of Aubergine Baked with Mellow Spices, Cepe Biscuit, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, accompanied by 2017 Chablis, Domain Servin, Vielles Vignes, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

A first course of Aubergine Baked with Mellow Spices, Cepe Biscuit, Ardsallagh Goats Cheese, accompanied by 2017 Chablis, Domain Servin, Vielles Vignes, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

Your blogger in the bar between courses at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

Your blogger in the bar between courses at Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

A main course of Truffled Chicken “Tourte” with Foie Gras, Port, Périgord Truffle(a specialty of the chef, not on the regular menu) accompanied by 2014 Savigny-Les-Beaune “Ez Connardises”, Domaine Françoise Andre , Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud

A main course of Truffled Chicken “Tourte” with Foie Gras, Port, Périgord Truffle (a specialty of the chef, not on the regular menu) accompanied by 2014 Savigny-Les-Beaune “Ez Connardises”, Domaine Françoise Andre , Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

A main course of Grilled Wild Halibut, Violet Artichoke Fricassé, Roasted Bone Jus, accompanied by 2014 Savigny-Les-Beaune “Ez Connardises”, Domaine Françoise Andre , Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

A main course of Grilled Wild Halibut, Violet Artichoke Fricassé, Roasted Bone Jus, accompanied by 2014 Savigny-Les-Beaune “Ez Connardises”, Domaine Françoise Andre , Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud, Dublin, Republic of Ireland

 

Legal Notices: All photographs copyright © 2019 by Richard C. Edwards. All Rights Reserved Worldwide.  Permission to link to this blog post is granted for educational and non-commercial purposes only.

 

Eat local: Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

Le Surcouf, in the center of the old town specializes in Fruits de Mer (seafood), Homard (lobster) and poissons (fresh fish), Roscoff, Brittany, France

Le Surcouf, in the center of the old town specializes in Fruits de Mer (seafood), Homard (lobster) and poissons (fresh fish), Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

Roscoff, France, on the Brittany coast, has several nice restaurants in the town.  We chose a seafood restaurant specializing in Fruits de Mer (seafood), Homard (lobster) and poissons (fresh fish), Le Surcouf, in the center of the old town.

 

The fresh salt water tank full of Homard Bleu (blue lobsters from the coast of Brittany) and fresh local crabs, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

The fresh salt water tank full of Homard Bleu (blue lobsters from the coast of Brittany) and fresh local crabs, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

When we entered, we were very excited to see the fresh salt water tank full of Homard Bleu (blue lobsters from the coast of Brittany) and fresh local crabs.

 

An appetizer salad of Coquille St. Jacques (scallops, with their roe), Crevettes (shrimp) and Artichaut (artichoke hearts), Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France--

An appetizer salad of Coquille St. Jacques (scallops, with their roe), Crevettes (shrimp) and Artichaut (artichoke hearts), Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France–

 

Soupe de Poissons (Breton fish soup) with Sauce Rouille, Gruyere cheese and Croûtons, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

Soupe de Poissons (Breton fish soup) with Sauce Rouille, Gruyere cheese and Croûtons, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

The intrepid explorer bibbed up for Homard Bleu, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

The intrepid explorer bibbed up for Homard Bleu, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

Homard Bleu a la Le Surcouf (Brittany blue lobster prepared by the chef in his style), Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

Homard Bleu a la Le Surcouf (Brittany blue lobster prepared by the chef in his style), Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

Local torteau (Breton crab), served cold with homemade mayonnaise, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

Local torteau (Breton crab), served cold with homemade mayonnaise, Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

All of our dishes were excellent — and we knew the seafood was fresh, as the waitress showed us the Homard Bleu and torteau after she removed them from the salt water tank at the front of the restaurant.  And our dessert (photograph below) was light, airy and delicious.

 

Our shared dessert was Des îles flottantes (floating islands of meringue with Crème Anglaise), Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

Our shared dessert was Des îles flottantes (floating islands of meringue with Crème Anglaise), Le Surcouf, Roscoff, Brittany, France

 

Eat Local — Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Harbor Fish Market street entrance, Portland, Maine, USA

Harbor Fish Market street entrance, Portland, Maine, USA

In preparation for some sea days before our next port, we inquired of the locals about the best fresh fish market in Portland, Maine.  Hands down, the recommendations were for the Harbor Fish Market, located near the still active piers.

The sign says it all -- LOBSTERS, fish and clams, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

The sign says it all — LOBSTERS, fish and clams, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

We weren’t disappointed!  We opted for lobster meat, rather than live, whole lobsters (easier and more flexible, given the space constraints of our apartment’s kitchen), fresh scallops, fresh flounder, smoked salmon, homemade clam chowder, and additional items…

"Chicken" lobsters (about one pound (0.6 Kg)), Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

“Chicken” lobsters (about one pound (0.6 Kg)), Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Whole, fresh fish for sale, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Whole, fresh fish for sale, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Uni, smoked salmon, LOBSTER MEAT, and shrimp for sale, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Uni, smoked salmon, LOBSTER MEAT, and shrimp for sale, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

While we didn’t purchase any, it was rare to find fresh uni in an American fish market — the next week we had fresh uni (from Japan) sushi at an excellent sushi restaurant in New York City.

Fresh fish fillets for sale, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Fresh fish fillets for sale, Harbor Fish Market, Portland, Maine, USA

Overall, a terrific selection of really fresh fish and seafood, friendly and helpful service, and reasonable prices for the freshness and quality.  Wouldn’t it be nice to find a comparable market in every port?